I own 135 chainsaws! And the way you completely throw that heat issue out the window is by not restricting the exaust pipe with all the Baffles and spark arrestors and I have even seen steel wool used to catch the hydrocarbons that fuel creates when burned! A 2-stroke engines piston is traveling so fast that it needs to be an in and out as fast as possible! If the spent exaust gasses are stopped in one direction and made to turn and start moving in a different direction and then sized down to escape out of a little hole you are causing the exaust gasses that are super heated and now traveling at twice the speed of sound to backup in the exaust pipe. When this happens as soon as your transfer ports open that super heated spent gasses get sucked back inside the cylinder and down inside the crankcase via the transfer ports! The only way to honestly say this is, You cannot save the world by putting a catalyst in your exaust pipe, but you sure as hell can burn up a nice saw by doing so! 😉
No, the exhaust gasses are not moving faster than the speed of sound. That is actually physically impossible. Yes, an object can move through gasses faster than the speed of sound, but all that would happen if you tried to make gasses move faster than the speed of sound is they would compress, resulting in an increase in the speed of sound. Also, what you recommend would make the saw even louder. watch your ears.
Half-arsed information here. Light and heavy has absolutely nothing to do with this nor the decision about what ratio to choose. The first choice is 'what kind of oil do I mix with my gasoline?' The answer is: a two-cycle oil made to standard FD (currently the highest availble) as set by JASO. Read the labels. The second choice is 'What mix ratio do I use?' Answer 50:1. The JASO FD standard requires that the lubricant mixed at 50:1 covers all mix ratios no matter what the manual calls for. i know that just blows peoples' minds and some heads even explode. Don't believe me, read about it. The manual of every current Echo product has a paragraph about oil that states these facts. You can freely read their manuals on line. Today's greatest cause of lubrication failure is not the mix ratio, it is neglect. Modern adjustable carbs are not set it and forget it and ops will not learn to adjust nor pay for adjustment. Adjust by the seasons. Adj according to service manual instructions. Adj according to tachometer not your ears. Further, much equipment delivered to customers arrives in a lean fuel to air mixture condition. Remember, the lubricant is in the fuel so if it isn't getting enough fuel it isn't getting enough oil either. Rule of thumb, unit goes in for adj after first five tankfuls of gas.
I accidentally ran 80:1 for a few hours in my weedwaker and blower in moderate weather. Neither were hurt by my mistake but of course they are not chainsaws which are subjected to higher continuous running. I have used chinese plugs, regular gas and outboard oil at 40:1 for many years with no apparent ill effects but then again it is homeowner use. In those years I have occasionally replaced primer bulbs, fuel lines and carburetors. I suspect these small motors are designed to allow a broad range of fuel quality and still have a reasonable life. Regardless, tremendous respect for all the knowledge you experts have.
The less amount of oil in the mixture, the more the wear. Raced and tuned two strokes for many years. Eve was witness to a 500cc race bike that was acidently run with no oil. It ran 2 days riding and ran good, but lost compression and hard to start. Even straight gas will lubricate somewhat. The more oil in the mix actually makes for a leaner air fuel mix due to the fuel being thicker. The adjustment of the fuel to air mixture can also even 20 to 1 to burn with exhaust being dry, and no slooge. There will be less wear at 20 to 1 than there is at 40 to 1 or 50 to 1, especially at 80 to 1. But correct air fuel ratio is of utmost importance, and is easily adjusted.
I've always used 32:1 in 50:1 engines with 50:1 Synthetic oil. Never had a problem, power is awesome and I've never replaced rings, pistons or any other engine part in over 30 years. In fact I use the same mix in every 2-stroke engine that I own. 😁👍🏻🇦🇺
Years ago I had a 32:1 saw. I bought a new 40:1 saw. I was told I could run 40:1 in both saws. After one tank of gas the old saw was toast. Best saw I ever owned.
I always thought little two strokes ran on rich mixes.like 16 to 1. I know with better lubricity of modern oils that less is needed. But,now they all are 50 to 1. That is a bit of a difference.i probably will run 40. Better a lil much oil than not enough.on the big 500s i always ran 40 to one
At 06:26 oil is being poured directly into the gas tank of the saw, and a lot of it. The container that it is coming from appears to be what two stroke oil is sold in. This is not good procedure. You would expect the oil and gas to be mixed beforehand in a container and then poured into the saw. Or am I missing something here?
I have several 2 stroke engines some 40:1 and some 50:1. I've been running 45:1 for many years without problems. Far more important is fresh non-ethanol gas.
Месяц назад
What about the color of the mixed fuel? If had mixed fuels around my place and not known the ratio. Blueish, greenish and in between.
If you use Stihl HP Ultra oil at 50:1 you will get the best engine performance and longevity. Did you know that Stihl makes a combination 2 stroke engine with valves? I found their innovated engine designs very intriguing and their systems make sense.
I remember some of the old motors from years past you cannot use synthetic oil in it will recommend forgetting to tell you that I obviously and you can’t use boat motor oil in a chainsaw are Weedwhacker does it mean burn it up?
Different oil has different properties. Synthetic oil can take high heat. It is made from natural gas. Oil made from crude provides a better lubricant but can break down in high heat. Castrol oil provides the best sealing between piston, rings and cylinder creating more power. The best oils are blends of the three. Castrol 747 or Maxima 727. The 7s are the ratio of crude oil and synthetic. The 2&4 are the amount of Castrol oil. Your going to have to go someplace that does 2 stroke racing to find these oils. The oil gas ratio for maximum power depends on how high of RPM the motor runs. A engine running very high RPM best ratio may be 16-1. Chainsaws are not running that high for long periods of time. The 50-1 is what most modern chainsaws are set up to run. They put out less pollution with this ratio. With modern electronic controlled saws chaining the amount of oil can make them run bad. How lean or rich an engine runs can be controlled by the amount of oil. The richness of the mixture is dependent on the amount of gas and air. Increasing the amount of oil replaces some of the gas which leans out the saw. You can over come this with jetting. If your jets can be adjusted that far.
50:1 was mandated by the epa. Any stock pro model saw 40:1 I run 32:1 in all my ported saws because the compression is significantly raised along with higher working rpm’s which makes more heat. Your mix oil is the life of the saw along with tuning. Homeowner saws… doesn’t really matter what you run in them because they’re all garbage, made to throw away.
I did not realize there are different oils for 'big' 2 cycle engines such as outboard motors and 'small' 2 cycle engines such as chain saws and man portable yard equipment. 2 cycle oil sold in gallon cans is probably not meant for small 2 cycle engines.
Two stroke outboards run at a much lower engine temperature due to the problem with salt buildup in the cooling system. That’s why they need a different type of two stroke oil (TC-W3)
go with manufacturer specs, they no what is best for the motor they built, i fully recommend premium gas always and a good oil, stihl and most chainsaw oils have preservative in it wich is good, dont cheap out with oil
Oooh Looorrrddd I iiii aaammm aannnnn aaaaaa iiiiiiiiii HHooowww aaarreee y yyooouuuuuuuu Jokeing asside? What do I use? Whatever is cheap on CHEAP stuff. (Blowers from big box etc) Chainsaw? Big box same. Stihl? I don't bother. I'm a home gamer.
You almost got it right. Both two and four stroke engines are described in terms of 'strokes per cycle'. A two two stroke is properly called a 'two stroke cycle' engine but of course that's a mouth-full, so we just say 'two stroke'. A four stroke is a 'four stroke cycle' engine, not a 'two cycle engine'.
@@paulmaxwell8851 Yes and no. We are both correct. A 4 stroke takes two cycles of the engine to complete one complete cycle of intake and exhaust. Clearly, when people say 4 cycle, they are referring to 4 strokes making 2 turns of the engine. No where does 4 cycle make sense. To be clear, they all complete a single cycle of intake and exhaust, 2 strokes or 4 strokes would both be single cycle engines using your description.
I'd put pay check down and bet that your comment put at least 400 viewers in the psych ward with irreversible frontal lobe hematomas. and kaleidescope vision for life. That was uncalled for sir! He he he... Do it again 😉
You are describing a combustion cycle, which takes 4 strokes in a 2 cycled engine. A two MECHANICAL cycled engine takes 4 strokes. "Cycle" was always meant to refer to the mechanical cycle, otherwise all engines would be one cycle engines(2 and 4 stroke) .@@paulmaxwell8851
@@Danesft all stihl products call for 50:1. All stihl oil mix ins are made at 50:1. It would be nice if all pre made and mix ins were the same though.
15 дней назад
And what is in Stihl interest? That you never buy new Stihl again? Have you ever heard of term "planned obsolescence"? It is modern desease these days. And they have perfect excuse for them. It is called EPA.
