Update! Your suggestions please. Soldering white metal ¦ Restoring a special Terrier. 

Your dad's models (and your memory) never cease to amaze me. How on Earth do you remember the shop owner's dogs name?? In all seriousness, really impressive stuff all round. I never tire of seeing his models, always a treat. Very useful information about soldering whitemetal too. I must confess, I've built quite a few whitemetal wagons, mainly Roxey products and stuff from thw Broad Gauge Society. I tend to do that shameful method of gluing the parts together. In all fairness, I've never had one fail yet, but its always possible. Maybe one day, I'll try to do it the proper way. All the best, Mike! Alan Bowers

I remember going to Tony Collet's shop many years ago, I think it was in Winter Road in Southsea. and it was called Tony Collet's Music Shop. Presumably he sold records. I don't know as I only visited for model railway bits. At the time it was the "go to" shop for models among the modelling fraternity. Happy days!

Thanks for opening this can of worms, I think many of us will take something away from this series. My best wishes for your restoration project, I'm sure its going to be a very interesting watch. Following with great interest.

Mike, I can really recommend Tony Wright’s Building Locomotive Kits series of videos on RU-vid. It’s about 5 hours worth but he covers everything in a very easy and calm way. We might not have his asbestos finger tips but the Master knows his stuff and it’s a pleasure to witness his skills.

Cleaning off the oxidisation of the white metal with a fibre glass pencil until it shines prior to soldering may help.

Hello. Temperature is a bit low. While it will melt the solder the actual work has quite the heat sink effect. I generally solder white metal at 150 degrees. Sounds a bit aggressive but it's fine if you don't hang around for too long. I also use a normal rounded chisel tip. Load it on the flat face and use the top edge to flow the solder in. You are also being a bit mean with the flux. I use an old paint brush to paint the flux in. Try not to breathe it in. Important tip. Use a dedicated tip for white metal soldering if possible. On first use tin the tip with regular electrical solder as a barrier. Then you can solder as normal using the low melt stuff. If you have some spare white metal parts turn the temperature up a bit and see how long it actually takes to melt them. I think you will be surprised. White metal has reputation like ice but it's really not. Might make an interesting short video Humbrol RC410 olive green is a spot on match for 80's Hornby olive green. It's made by Hornby so I assume they colour matched themselves. Phoenix precision olive green is lovely paint. Goes on like silk. And yes I would say that's an A1 terrier given the plate under the smokebox joining the splashers.

Hi Mike. You may recall me mentioning before im an electronics engineer. What you really need is a temperature controlled iron. One with a stat as close as possible to the tip. Then you have the beef of the full wattage to mainatin temperature, because as soon as you start to melt solder, touch flux, or touch the part, heat is sunk away really fast. Just using a variable supply like this will be almost impossible to use. You can get a hobbyists adjustable iron and stand for very little money so its best to do that.

Nice how to video Mike

If you can get the Carr's Yellow flux that is definitely for white metal. It even says it on the old bottle I've got As others have said, a temperature-controlled iron will assist greatly. I used to make up white metal car kits some time ago but by no means an expert. Cheers!

Nice video. Very brave to solder on camera. I do like both Terriers.

Hi Mike, yes you spotted the A1/A1X difference, and the smokebox front plate confirms it.. I've successfully used Precision Paints Southern Light Olive, it's an enamel like Humbrol. Try out before committing but slight shade differences shouldn't be too apparent given the paint will be on the wheels. Good luck with the white lining I also solder whitemetal at around 150C, for large castings even higher, but don't forget to turn it back down to solder small parts or they will disappear before your eyes! (I know, it's happened!) The old method of deconstructing a whitemetal kit was to boil it in a saucepan of water........So whitemetal is safe at 100C (Guess it didn't do much for the paint though!). You didn't say, is the chassis brass or a block of whitemetal too? If whitemetal that would explain the wear. Very interested in seeing how you get on, especially curing the axle waggle. All the best Chris.

Hi Mike i think the flux is the most important part of soldering white metal plus maybe where you place the clamps when completing the job also cleaning the white metal thoroughly regards Robin

I think that the enlarged bunker was for IoW work.

Years ago, I tried soldering white metal - and melted it! Ended up using araldite!

I usually have my soldering iron set around 150°. The two pieces to solder should be clean and shiny. I use a 7% flux phosphoric acid based. You're not really touching the two pieces to be soldered, but the solder itself, it should flow along the joint. You can use the solder to build up any holes or gaps. Dont do what i did when i first started and wash it off in hot water, It will fall apart 😂

hello Mike, great video. soldering i am eager to learn, sams trains is not better than anyone,whats kellyasford on about ?

I would rather glue white metal than solder it to prevent it from zinc pest or white rust.

Ask Sam's Trains, my favourite RU-vidr. In some of his videos, he uses a soldering iron himself. Sam is the soldering expert around here. He can give you tips and advice better than anyone.