Upgrade Ender 3 Neo Hot End

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Chuck shows you how an all metal heat break works and how it can improve your 3D printer. Then he shows you how to install one on the Creality Ender 3 Neo and Neo V2.
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Опубликовано:

12 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 330

@FilamentFriday Год назад

For standard Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro and Ender 3 V2 to upgrade the hot end watch this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tYbL-O3FecY.html

@iamdmc Год назад

thanks mate from UK have you ever considered making a Klipper video? What about the creality sonic pad which klipperizes any Ender?

@Kami3Kaze Год назад

will you be testing out the new titan extruder+ for the neo

@gimmy9099 Год назад

pleas do more for Ender 3 Neo!!!

@oioindoor8155 Год назад

Hey i am going to buy my first 3d printer but i am not able to decide which to buy ender 3 neo or anycubic cobra i am also new to 3d printing Please reply 🙏

@gimmy9099 Год назад

@@oioindoor8155 ender 3 neo is awesome

@ThatGuyThatCommentedOn_A_Video Год назад

@@oioindoor8155Im also new to 3d printing, and narrowed it down to the same 2 printers. I ended up buying the ender 3 neo not to long ago, and I like it. I still have problems with stringing, because I need to get better at the slicing software. I was using Creality slicer and was getting good results, but I’m moving over to cura slicer, and haven’t got the same results yet. The only thing I dont realy like about this printer is the hot end, and the drive system, direct drive sounds much nicer. However there are many upgrdes for this printer, and some are 3d printable upgrades… so thats nice. Hopefully this helps a bit if you haven’t already got one

@oioindoor8155 11 месяцев назад

@@gimmy9099yes it is😅

@Superdupershaun 7 месяцев назад

YESSSSS

@Magin68 Год назад

When changing to an all metal heat break its important to reduce retraction distance or you're going to have problems. If you're running a bowden setup, 2mm retraction might be your new max. With direct drive, 1mm (or close to it) might be max. If you're trying to get fine details out of PLA, don't bother with all metal heat breaks as your bowden tube is doing exactly what it was designed to do. All metal is for plastics requiring more heat than PLA. Just one humble opinion.

@FilamentFriday Год назад

I print with all metal on my Ender 3 V2 every day in my printfarm with same 6mm retractions and no issues at all.

@Magin68 Год назад

@@FilamentFriday I wonder what the difference is then? In your print farm, what material are you printing with and at what temp? I'm using the all metal heatbreak for ABS at 230-235C. I was getting clogs until I reduced the retraction from 6mm to 2.2mm. Perhaps there was something else going on??

@FilamentFriday Год назад

PLA at 205°C. 6mm retraction on bowden.

@MakeItWithCalvin Год назад

I genuinely wish these became the norm since I can not say how many times people go running ABS/ASA at 250+ and then go to do PLA and complain their PTFE is nuked/blame the company. Also, the breakdown products of PTFE are not something you want to be breathing either!

@XxXBootieBandito69420XxX Год назад

This turned out to be a great upgrade, but it was definitely not "plug and play" for me. I had to tighten up retraction settings to around ~2mm like others have mentioned, but still got bad stringing. After a PID auto-tune helped but did not solve my problem, I calibrated my extruder steps also. Out of the box it was under-extruding by 8mm. I also found it helped to return to the stock 200/60 PLA settings, and play with Z-hop.

@Bricksniper Год назад

This is a perfectly timed video for me. I just bought a Diamondback nozzle so I can print all the abrasive filaments I'd ever want on my original Ender 3 (highly modified), but still have the stock hotend. I want to be able to print higher temp abrasives such as PA12 CF Nylon, so I just started looking into bi-metal heatbreaks. I think you just convinced me to finally make the switch!

@IanTheWoodchuck Год назад

Hi Chuck! Just wanted to let you know, I just put together my Ender3 Neo V2 and performed this upgrade as part of my assembly! Literally not a drop of filament went through the stock setup, and it has been working perfectly. I had an Ender 3 Pro a while ago that got hit by a lightning strike that fried all the electronics and motors so when I replaced it I tried a Prusa Mk3S+. I've come to realize that while the engineering is impressive, they're SERIOUSLY overpriced, and I'm glad to be back tinkering with an Ender again!

@redstone51 Год назад

Don't need to write a book saying this post was EXCELLENT!!! This post perfectly explained the problem we were having and remedied it!!! Thank you!!!🙏👌

@greeman92 Год назад

looking forward to more videos on the neo i just got one. so far i havent had a print fail. auto level is great

@sailork3506 11 месяцев назад

Hey, guys. This is awesome upgrade. However many, including me, have posted a difficulty in getting the new heat break to fit inside the heat sink. I just had to redo mine, since I messed it up the first time. I found that one heat break would not fit. But another one, ordered at a different time from same seller, purportedly the same item, would fit easily. So if you are having problems and can't get it into the heat sink, it may be a supplier/defect issue. Not required to make it hot and trade off the aluminum/copper heat expansion.

@cache4pat Год назад

Wow.... the Comments sections for your videos is always such an eye openner for related issues to consider. Thanks for sharing.

@FilamentFriday Год назад

Many times the comments are actually referring to other issues but blame it on heat break. So read cautiously.

@elizabethdue4801 Год назад

FYI: I have an Ender 3 Neo Max. I had to change my retraction time to 95 and my nozzle temp to 220 with PLA or the nozzle would clog. In the long run it will prevent the PTFE tube from getting destroyed but it's not quite plug n play.

@teamkinetixmedia Год назад

Agreed, retraction settings need to be adjusted after installing this mod. What retraction settings have you found to work?

@elizabethdue4801 Год назад

@@teamkinetixmedia 95 works great

@teamkinetixmedia Год назад

@@elizabethdue4801 95 for what? 95mm/s retraction speed?

@nilssondelgado Год назад

Excellent explanation about heatbreak! Clear as mountain creek water...

@Tankslayer109 Год назад

This works fantastic on my ender 3 neo. I pair this and a brass/ruby nozzle for abrasive material. Reduce your retraction settings to 2mm at 80mm/s, and run a temp of 235 PLA, and 260 ABS. Carbon fiber PLA runs at 260 as well

@MrMikolMunoz Год назад

were you having trouble at the lower temps?

@slicedpage Год назад

I bought a pair of cheap bimetal heat breaks from Amazon three months ago for my Ender 3 for £8.99. I am still using the first one. They just work.

@JonasE-l7q Год назад

these heatbreaks are the best upgrade you can make for a ptfe lined printer (imo :) )

@truthteller5539 Год назад

I run that same bi-metal heat break on my four CR-6’s, they work great saves the PTFE tubing and the headache of dealing with the burnt tubing.

@soggynode Год назад

The only issues I've had with all-metal hot ends is with PLA at lower layer heights (sub .2) with a .4 nozzle or if I try to iron the top of a print. As long as I'm pushing a good amount of plastic at a decent speed, the all-metal hot ends work well. I haven't tried a bi-metal yet and that might do a better job of keeping melted material from creeping up the heat break and causing a clog.

@FilamentFriday Год назад

I’ve had no issues with that.

@TechnoTinker Год назад

Thanks for the in-depth explanation. There is so much to learn about the art/science of 3D printing effectively, and it's videos like this that help me figure out what info applies to my setup.

@buildersmark Год назад

Copper/Titanium ftw Titanium blocks heat, Copper radiates so this is perfect for heatbreaks

@qta4425 7 месяцев назад

Terrific explanation. Covers everything in less than 8 minutes. Worked perfectly. Thanks.

@yeroca Год назад

This has to do with heat conduction, not absorption. Titanium is a very poor heat conductor but has a high melting temperature, which is why it's the metal of choice here. Copper is a very good heat conductor, which allows the heat to conduct to the filament near the nozzle.

@MisterkeTube Год назад

All those fancy bi-metal arguments only give small incremental benefits. Just stainless steel all the way is better than having the PTFE tube going to the nozzle. Sure, a bi-metal heat-break will ensure better cooling at the cold-end because of the copper there and hence make the temperature of the fillament above the small section a bit lower, but if stainless steel can get this below the glass-transition point quickly enough, then the extra gain of the copper doesn't bring much. And the melting is done at the hot side, where you have either PTFE, stainless steel or titanium up to the nozzle, which all suck for transferring heat, but that's also the intention. So the melting is to be done in the nozzle, not the heat-break. So, I'd say: at least get a $2 stainless steel all-metal heat-brake replacement as even that cheap one will be much healthier than cooked PTFE!

@yeroca Год назад

@@MisterkeTube I'm guessing that you're right, that the bi-metal aspect is only slightly more than a gimmick. It would be good to do some measurements to see how much the flow rate is affected by going from pure titanium to the bi-metal design. I'll bet CNC kitchen has done it already. I haven't bothered to look.

@RoXolid Год назад

I put one of these in my Ender 3V2 Neo and man, what a great improvement! Thanks Chuck!

@arduino-org-ua Год назад

Does it still work? :) I'm on my second attempt with this upgrade today. First time I got clogging after some 1 hour of print. Today I tried a heatbreak of a bit better quality + applied thermal paste - no clogging, but print quality is waaaay worse than with the stock option. Figured out that best retraction distance is not 2 mm (as people usually recommend) but 1.6 mm, it decreased stringing but it's still there. What changes in settings you had to make to get it working nicely?

@RoXolid Год назад

@@arduino-org-ua Sure does!

@the-matrix-has-you Год назад

Hi @Chuck what an eye opening video! Thank you! just ordered all metal heatbreak from the link you provided. I have Ender 3 v2 Neo as well. I am only buying this to stop PTFE tubing not to melt and block nozzle some day. My printer is new but it is best to be prepared from the start I guess. Cause by design the stock heartbreak is a time bomb. What I wonder is Titanium heat transfer characteristics? Do you have to increase hotend temperature slightly for PLA? I am printing PLA at 210 Celsius with stock heatbreak. I have an update! Bi-metal heatbreak came installed exactly just as Chuck instructed. It works beautifully much more filament is can be extruded from nozzle with this upgrade too! Plus I don't have to worry about my PTFE tube melted one day in middle of printing... This is just awesome upgrade Chuck Thanks Man! There is no need to upgrade to slice engineering's hotend with this bi-metal heatbreak upgrade! Only thing was not exactly is the heatbreak's outer diameter is half mm bigger so I sanded down a little and then outer shell become exactly 6mm then I could insert heatbreak into the heatsink easily.

@Frostbite8205 10 месяцев назад

Thanks for this mate! I just had to perform my first nozzle change on my new ender 3 neo and had no idea how to get the guard off... Your video helped heaps!

@Enjoymentboy Год назад

I began modding a monoprice mini select a few months ago and this was one of the first things I did (along with replacing the entire hot end) and I accidentally got the 6mm diameter ones instead of the 7mm. But I got a 4 pack off ebay for $11 shipped. I couldn't imagine paying $17 for one of them. But then again I did wait 6 weeks for them to arrive from China but I wasn't in a hurry so it was fine. I had no end of clogs and ptfe breaking down and these things solved all of those issues. TBH this upgrade is a no brainer.

@sailork3506 9 месяцев назад

Chuck,Thanks. So many people are clamoring for 300C nozzle. If you made a video on how to do that, it would be so cool. No one seems to do a good one on it. The biggest challenge is the firmware upgrade. I see that Creality has just offered a 300C printer, but in small format. A max with 300C would be so worth it. I have neo 3 max.

@ricky2493 Год назад

Thank God I didn't buy the slice engineering one. You uploaded this at a perfect time since I just got my ender 3 v2 neo and was looking to upgrade this for longevity and it's so much cheaper.

@AniviaS Год назад

The offbrand ones are kinda bad quality, the extra money for a Brozzl or Slice Engineering one is worth it

@EXTREMERC416 Год назад

@@AniviaS if you live in the US

@ricky2493 Год назад

@@AniviaS problem is I have the v2 neo and slice doesn't make one for this hotend

@MCsCreations Год назад

Excellent! Thanks a lot, Chuck! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

@sailork3506 11 месяцев назад

Hey dude. Your videos are the best on RU-vid. I only watch yours and CNC kitchen (for filament and printing tips). However, the heat break is primarily due to the titanium between the top and bottom, which is a pretty good thermal insulator and doesn't conduct heat very well, not the diameter of the tube.

@dia35 Год назад

Awesome content as usual. Thanks Chep

@sailork3506 Год назад

Does this let me go past 260C in printing temp? Or do I need a better hot end? If so, which hot end works with the ender 3 neo? I have the ender 3 neo with sprite SE "direct" extruder (which really uses about a 3" piece of tube.

@pisolo86 Год назад

Amazing Chanel I am in love, my ender 3 neo just arrived, I will play with it but I already put this piece of kit in my trolley. Especially because in short future I will use Petg and it will require higher temperatures.

@tylagismo112 8 месяцев назад

I have been desperately trying to find out how to get that front case thing off after i had a blob issue this is the only video ive found of it

@paulcumber4732 Год назад

nice job chep keep up the good work

@Donorcyclist Год назад

Great video, Chuck! I spent $100 to upgrade my Ender 3 Pro, not aware of this printer which has all of the upgrades I purchased pre-installed. I'm still struggling through issues with my upgrades (and a possibly a failing extruder). If I'd known I could have purchased the Ender-3 Neo for under $200, I'd have just sold my Pro and purchased this one. I'd be way ahead! Hind sight, as they say...

@d4popov Год назад

Awesome guide! Even though I've watched the previous ones it was still interesting to see.

@rushilkisoon Год назад

The thing that we’re probably all curious about… if it’s such a big improvement, why don’t manufactures just include an all metal part? The same way they still make inferior, plastic extruder arms, when they all fail so easily.

@MakeItWithCalvin Год назад

I think it is because PTFE hotends are more forgiving for bad retraction settings for beginners, but I feel the PTFE breaking down and clogging cause more issues than it fixes. Just my $0.02. I do wish they became the new norm but these machines are made to the cheapest possible price, and good upgrades be darned.

@lolzlarkin3059 Год назад

The heatbreak needs to be super smooth to not cause a clog. A ptfe tube is super smooth slippery, so doesn't have much risk of causing a clog. Not to mention cheap and readily available. If you are only gonna print with pla, then it is the better option. If you need high temp resistance, you have to go all metal.

@user-dx2bn1cx5l Год назад

Because they have tons of this stuff in stock and it must be sold first XD

@daliasprints9798 Год назад

Historically, all metal was a tradeoff because the large throated ones had heat creep, and bad manufacturing left internal lips to jam on. Modern style thin throated all metal is very different. It's still a tradeoff on Ender 3 & clones with the bad stock extruders just because there's more friction and the extruder is so borderline to begin with, but if you put on a good extruder it's all win.

@danpeters5163 Год назад

Cost - bimetal heatbreaks a precision item = expensive. Ditto with metal extruder arms.

@ronnyskf Год назад

Its working great , but you have to lower your extraction , from 5 mm tot 1.5 mm ...

@immedinafrank Год назад

What's your printing temp and retraction speed?

@silenttraveler1647 Год назад

Can you please do a video on the Sonic Pad…. There are no good instructional video on RU-vid as you do.

@rdotkey Год назад

Thank you for this video. It seems Creality is mixing and matching things up a bit with their models. I have a CR-10 Smart with the same hot end shown in this video. I think the CR-10 Smart uses parts from the CR-6. I'm buying this from your link, as I switch filament often and want to gracefully transition from PLA / ABS / PETG / TPU as desired. This might just help with that.

@jamesc.7988 Год назад

I just bought and installed this heat break on my Ender 3 V2 Neo. Your video was very easy to follow. But I took a really good look at the bowder tube couplers while I had everything disassembled and I'm wondering how they are replaced. Can you help me out?

@justinchamberlin4195 Год назад

I've been using all-metal heat breaks in my Ender 3 and Sidewinder X1 for a while and wouldn't go back to a standard setup ever again. With the quality metal heat breaks out there and a little tweaking to your retraction settings, there are absolutely no advantages of having PTFE in direct contact with the nozzle (while there are plenty of drawbacks).

@JPZEF Год назад

how are your retraction settings

@justinchamberlin4195 Год назад

@@JPZEF On the Ender 3 with the Micro-Swiss hot end and direct-drive extruder, 1.5 mm at 35 mm/s seems to work for pretty much everything other than TPU (I last printed Ninjaflex at 0.2 mm and 50 mm/s). For the Sidewinder with either the Polisi3D or Trianglelabs bimetallic heat breaks, it's varied between 1 mm for PLA at 25 mm/s, 2 mm for PETG at 25 mm/s, and 0.5 mm at 20 mm/s for TPU.

@giulianom.ruggeri2289 Год назад

I ordered the same heatbreak, but it seems not all NEOs are manufactured equally. Even with the heatbreak cold and the heatsink heated to around 250 C I couldn't get it on to the heatbreak. I needed to result to sanding the heatsink down + use a hammer to get it on. Otherwise a grade upgrade! Are you planning to do more upgrade videos on it? BTW, Klipper firmware on the V2 Neo improves print speed without a reduction in quality immensely for this printer. Because of the all metal chassis, I don't have oscillation issues either. I've ordered an accelerometer to see how far i can push it with input shaping next.

@ezioisawesome56 Год назад

Just wanted to stop in and say: Thank you for making this video. The replacement heat break you suggested in this video was the key solution to fixing the absolutely infuriating retraction issues I was having while trying to print anything that involved a lot of retraction. (It would end up clogging the tefflon tube, requiring it to be replaced every time!) With this new part, the printer finally can finish this prints without causing a clog, and i thank you i do have one thing to see if you know, though. Is the Neo compatible with the Ender 3 Pro's dual z axis upgrade? Have been thinking about getting that but it does not list the neo as supported. thanks again!

@pollogarciaduran13 Год назад

Hey chep what can i do to my ender 3 v2 neo to print carbon fiber nylon. Already got capricorn tubing, a bimetal heat break, and some steel nozzles. Do i need a better heater cartridge and some firmware? Or what else do i need? Not much info on the neos or any upgraded hot ends :(

@Voyajer. Год назад

Can the neo hit 260C? If so all I would reccomend is a heated chamber and a filament dryer, nylon loves to soak up all the moisture in the air.

@dfryer4558 Год назад

works like a charm!

@loubano Год назад

Great video and explanations !!!! Thank you very much 😀

@ComgrowOfficial Год назад

Thanks for your review!!! You're doing very well!!😛😛

@GamePixelVR Год назад

it will work even better if you put thermal compound before installing it !

@FilamentFriday Год назад

I’ve found no improvement in previous testing.

@mamadoubapassioninformatique Год назад

Very instructive. Thanks for sharing.

@Zeltroix Год назад

Will this eliminate the need to upgrade to a capricorn ptfe tube for example?

@FilamentFriday Год назад

Yes.

@Joe-wk9ow Год назад

Hey CHEP can you review the Crealty Sonic pad with klipperand see if it is better than the raspberry pi version of klipper?

@mab4110 Год назад

Would this make capricorn ptfe not necessary anymore?

@FilamentFriday Год назад

Correct.

@VitalyBrusentsev Год назад

@@FilamentFriday I believe Capricorn tubing would still offer reduced friction / tighter tolerance for the filament traveling in a Bowden printer?

@Offcut55 Год назад

I noticed you did not use thermal paste on the heat block? Would not that have helped more?

@FilamentFriday Год назад

Not really.

@joemusto5674 Год назад

I used the paste because I was getting thermal runaway on every 4th or 5th print. Adding the paste eliminated the problem. It's been 6 mo. since I added the paste and no thermal runaway.

@IgorPomaranskiy Год назад

@@joemusto5674what paste you used?

@Spencer1609751 Год назад

Nice Install!

@acmilanfan899 Год назад

CHEP, what is your opinion on this working with the NEOs? I'm seeing mixed opinions in the comments, I recently acquired an Ender 3 Max Neo and I noticed a good amount of stringing, and the adhesion could be better. I've tried a number of your recommendations and most have helped, but considering this change as well as an upgrade. Your thoughts would be appreciated with the Neos. Thanks!

@TheEverydayShopperReview Год назад

Hi chuck. I hope You can help me. I changed the heat break to what you recommended but now my dual drive filament extruded is clicking and stops the filament from going into the hot end. Any thoughts? I’ve already taken apart the hot end and reseated the new heatbreak and made changes, but it is still happening.

@BarryAdams777 Год назад

sounds like heat-creep. Reduce retraction and temp.

@jerryscott6924 Год назад

He didn't mention you should change your retraction settings when installing an all metal heat break.

@FilamentFriday Год назад

I don’t. So I didn’t mention it.

@jerryscott6924 Год назад

@@FilamentFriday I see. Very interesting. When I added mine to 2 different printers I was having issues with clogging. Changed my retraction settings and now they print beautifully.

@JPZEF Год назад

@@jerryscott6924 How are your retraction settings now?

@jerryscott6924 Год назад

@@JPZEF they are good. Went from 5mm and 45mm/s to 2mm and 25mm/s.

@JPZEF Год назад

@@jerryscott6924 what is you gcode star/end I fell that most of my issues with retraction are related with clogging when starting. I don't know if it is a bltouch related issue

@IanSlothieRolfe Год назад

Did you need to change your retraction settings? I put a all metal heatbreak in my Ender 3 Max and found that it appeared to be retracting melted PLA into the cooler section of the metal path and causing blocking. I have experimented with Maker;s Muse retraction tower everything in the range 2mm-5mm but nothing seems to be "perfect" - too short and stringing and blobbing is a problem (because of he bowden tube?) and too long it seems to jam as described. Its possible I might have a problem with the filament as what I have is getting a bit old, so I haven't tried everything yet, but I just wonder if there are any other things I should look out for, I would try a direct drive extruder (which I have but needs modifying to fit) but am worried about the extra weight on the wider X carriage and I can't afford dual Z right now even if one was available for this "frankenstein" printer.

@FilamentFriday Год назад

I didn’t change mine.

@IanSlothieRolfe Год назад

@@FilamentFriday Hmm it may be something else then. I think I'll try getting some new filament just to eliminate that and then redo all the setup again.

@RonanRTW Год назад

@@IanSlothieRolfe Dry your filament

@rejeand8556 Год назад

Good evening I own an Ender 3V2 Neo and I would like to change the extruder and hotend for a direct drive, which would be the best model for my printer. I use PLA+ and PETG in general. Thank you for your help. P.S. My motherboard and firmware allow a temperature of 250°C maximum.

@KevinGroninga3D Год назад

I installed an all metal heat break on my Ender 3 v2 and had nothing but problems using standard PLA. It kept clogging. I tried about 5 diff filaments, same issue. So had to go back to the Capricorn tubing. Having said that, this all metal break works great in my other Ender where I print my own homemade PET at about 257C. Any thoughts on why I had issues with standard PLA?

@mster50 Год назад

Retraction length should be 2.5mm, speed 50mm/s

@FilamentFriday Год назад

How do you remove your filament? You have to push it out so it gets hot before pulling it out quickly or it will cool to fast and plug the all metal heat break.

@KevinGroninga3D Год назад

@@mster50 okay. I never adjusted the retraction and left my Cura settings where it was 6mm I believe. That longer retraction could cause hot plastic to be pulled up too far into the heartbreak? I could see where that would then cool enough for the plastic to then adhere to the metal. With Capricorn tubing, likely that hot plastic wouldn’t stick to the Capricorn tube. And my my PET printer (runs hotter), the plastic may still be hot enough to NOT stick to the metal. So, good advise! I may reinstall the Slice heartbreak and try again. Thanks!

@KevinGroninga3D Год назад

@@FilamentFriday it was clogging while printing. But in regards to removing. I heat up and when at temp, I push until I get quite a bit oozing out. Then quickly pull it back so that any hot plastic clears the hot end.

@mster50 Год назад

@@KevinGroninga3D Correct - what’s happening is you’re retracting soft plastic into the heat break, where it rapidly cools and hardens

@knit1924 Год назад

Hi, I have had my creaity neo for about 1-1/2 months already, not printed on it, I ordered the all metal heat break. I wrote down the instructions, Where you say remove the filament, then use a racket to remove the nozzle. I have never used any filament yet, so excuse me for being dense, I would just proceed to remove the nozzle, right?

@MalachiBrown Год назад

Yes.

@octopusNavi Год назад

great tutorial! thanks

@BeefIngot Год назад

I really cant believe they arent standard now when they cost so little for such an improvement.

@StillBurningStudios Год назад

By chance are you going to do a review for the Creality Sonic Pad?

@FilamentFriday Год назад

Working on it.

@nilssondelgado Год назад

@@FilamentFriday Great news! Waiting for it!

@JoshWinterrowd 3 месяца назад

They offer a ceramic core version as well on the amazon link posted above. Has anyone tested this on an Ender 3 Max Neo? Is there advantage's to the ceramic vs the all metal?

@LTT.Official 2 месяца назад

I was about to order one for my Neo V1 as well but most of the bad reviews was of the ceramic version so I bought the regular one. The advantage is that ceramic conducts way less heat so there is even less heat soak up to the ptfe tube. I think it's unnecessary though as shown here, where the ptfe sits only gets to 100c ish. I believe the ceramic version may have less friction as well so it may help with clogs?

@dmugas4989 Год назад

hello chep can i ask what i your retraction settings on ender 3 neo?

@fadedsoulltwitch Год назад

I want to try an all metal hotend, but TPU is my main filament that I use in my small business so I'm hesitant.

@---658 Год назад

#3. Nice to see. Thanks a lot

@ljbeng4475 Год назад

I wonder why my foray into the Slice Eng heat break created prints that were under extruded but only in spots with huge holes in the print. I went back to good ole hot PTF Tube and all is perfect again. I just wanted to reduce the amount of times I change the PTF tube but it's worth the work to have better prints.

@Jim_One-wl4ke 6 месяцев назад

Good info. Thanks ❤. Anybody really measure the temperature at the heat break?

@noobt4eguns 8 месяцев назад

Am waiting from China the direct drive extruder for my Ender-3 and i need your opinion.i have the upgraded heat break in stock. Its good idea to replace the heat brake on the direct drive or i will use the new direct drive how it is?

@adilator Год назад

Using a heatbreak on a 3d printer in 2022 is simply a design flaw. There's not reason to not have the heatsink connect directly to the ptfe tube.

@NeganSmith2224 Год назад

The hotend is the same that cr 10 smart ?

@amartinez830 Год назад

Any chance you can help me identify the two screws that go from the heat sink to the heat break? I got my neo refurbished and just noticed them missing after a clogged mess. It would be greatly appreciated.

@0b1w4n 8 месяцев назад

Hi, i have the same printer and changed the barrel by a bimetallic one, the printers keeps clogging in the cold zone at the middle of the print. I trided from 0 to 4.5mm of retraction and from 20 to 50mm/s of velocity and keeps clogging. After days of trying i installed the old barrel with a capricorn tube

@granolasticot6169 2 месяца назад

J'ai exactement le même problème, j'y comprend rien.

@stickboyfpv4742 11 месяцев назад

Would this be worth doing over getting a swiss hot end? Thanks!

@worldluxer19 Год назад

Very detailed and informative video! Do you think it's possible or even beneficial to upgrade the Neo's print bed to spring steel sheet as well as the display to color? Thanks.

@stuartsmith809 Год назад

Iv upgraded the bed from glass to pei flexi bed (it’s prity much spring steel on magnetic sheet just with some fancy coating

@ronm6585 Год назад

Thank you sir.

@kiva860 Год назад

I got the thermal runaway out of the box did I do something wrong I followed the instructions

@nahtanoj92 Год назад

I orederd from link, the heat break didn't fit the heat sink at all 😢

@FilamentFriday Год назад

Maybe they sent you the wrong one. Is it too small? It’s fits the Ender 3 Neo which is a larger diameter.

@Agustin-jo8mv Год назад

@@FilamentFriday I ordered from the link and it fit my ender 3 neo. Installed and ordered my 3d printer/hot end and installed within the last month.

@nahtanoj92 Год назад

@@FilamentFriday I believe they did sent me the wrong one, I ordered from a different store and the one they sent fir like a charm, thanks for sharing this content, it has really helped me with my 3d printer

@chrisb1601 Год назад

Yeah, just about destroyed my hot end trying to get it wedged in there.

@sailork3506 Год назад

@@chrisb1601 Me too.

@Emurga Год назад

Thanks

@diegosebastiangr Год назад

Hola muchísimas gracias por el video!!. ¿Que distancia de retracción aconsejas ahora con este cambio en la Ender 3 v2 Neo?. Saludos cordiales y gracias por la ayuda!!

@immedinafrank Год назад

Hola, en mi caso con una impresora igual estoy haciendo pruebas y me funciono asi 2 mm 80mm/s a 220ºC para PLA, para PETG 225ºC 5 mm 30 mm/s

@diegosebastiangr Год назад

@@immedinafrank Hola gracias por tu referencia. Si me permites darte un consejo, es demasiado rápido la velocidad de retracción, ojo que se puede quebrar en filamento, y demasiado alto la temperatura para PLA. Los valores que usas para compensar altas velocidades pueden jugarte una mala pasada en la parte mecánica. Por otro lado, usar bimetal en PLA no lo aconsejo, bajo mi experiencia, porque el material se tiende a pegar cuando no se usa un bimetal de alta calidad, es decir, un interior completamente liso. Gracias por compartir tu experiencia, igual forma te doy este consejo. Saludos cordiales!!

@immedinafrank Год назад

@@diegosebastiangrGracias a mi también se me hicieron bastante altos los valores, pero con la torre de temperatura es lo que mejor se ve, sigo haciendo pruebas puesto que apenas cambie a bimetal.

@Agustin-jo8mv Год назад

I will hot end upgrade be enough to be able to fun PETG filament? Thank you very much in advance> :)

@michaelbeckelheimer2850 Год назад

Hey Bud, I tried this but for some reason it's not pushing through. Its getting stuck I believe at the smaller Neck portion of the new heat break. This is kind of strange because I took it out and tried to push the filament through with it not Installed and it goes through just fine. I am running a bowden Capricorn Tube Not sure if that's relevant but was hoping you might have some advice. Thank you, 🙏 .

@VooDooTen Год назад

Get a new Bowden tube. The stock tube is fractionally larger and won't meet flush with the recess in the heat break.

@sailork3506 11 месяцев назад

Question: The upgraded copper heat break doesn't fit inside the aluminum heat sink when cold. I see that you are inserting it when hot. I assume that it fits better when hot? I tried this once, but didn't get it right, so I will have to do it again. I would think that, when hot, the copper would expand and be larger. You easily inserted the copper into the aluminum heat sink. Did you do anything special, like drilling out the heat sink a bit? I'm trying to get it figured out before working around the hot metal (again).

@Igniferi 8 месяцев назад

The heat break itself is not hot, but he is inserting it into hot components.

@Truckinman2000 Год назад

Will this heat all metal heat break work on an Ender 3 Max Neo?

@FilamentFriday Год назад

Yes. They have the same hotend.

@Hopatzful Год назад

Im installed same bimetal throat into my cr-200b, retract distance 2mm + 0,5mm coast (3mm is clogged) result stringing.. 210-230C hotend. With old stock throat ptfe 5mm retract distance.. no stringing. Abs+ esun

@mainericiangel8399 Год назад

yeaa, after this upgrade my ender 3 neo stuck at extruder heating, it's either to cold or to hot :(

@pantherpigeon3048 Год назад

Sounds like you need to PID tune your nozzle temp

@mainericiangel8399 Год назад

@@pantherpigeon3048 actually that was it(thanks google), works like a charm now, many thanks

@wfs1965 11 месяцев назад

is the same as the TC4 sold on aliexpress?

@wouldeye7161 Год назад

Any reason you have not reviewed the Spider Hotend from Creality? Seemed to work great on my setup for Ender3 Pro.

@FilamentFriday Год назад

It’s on the list of projects.

@vladimiralena9129 Год назад

I also replaced the homo-metal on my Ender3 v.2.

@speakoid Год назад

Hi. I just installed this heat break on my Ender 3 V2 Neo following your instructions, however now my printer won't extrude filament. The nozzle is hot, the heat block is hot, but the filament isn't coming through. It's like the heat break is so efficient that there's not enough heat to melt the filament. Any ideas?

@diegosebastiangr Год назад

Hola, lo que puede estar ocurriendo es que no quedó bien instalado el barrel con la boquilla. Hay videos en RU-vid que explican cómo instalar y apretar en caliente para evitar fugas que ocasionen obstrucción. El problema debe ser eso ya que bien instalado no ocasiona problemas. Saludos cordiales!!

@alexdewsnup3152 Год назад

I know this comment was a while ago, but I’m having the same issue. Did you ever solve this?

@speakoid Год назад

@@alexdewsnup3152 Yeah dude. It was the easiest thing in the end - you need to snip the filament at a 45° angle before feeding it in. Basically, the hotend is a little thinner than the filament so if it's cut straight then it won't fit. Basically need to get in a habit of cutting a 45° angle on the filament before feeding it in every time.

@alexdewsnup3152 Год назад

@@speakoid amazing. I always snip it angled, but was having a bit of despair moment after installing this new piece and not having any filament come out..gave it another snip after reading your comment and it’s working like it should! So glad. did you mess with any other settings (retraction, temperature, etc) to get this thing working well with your printer? Thanks in advance.

@speakoid Год назад

@@alexdewsnup3152 I did a retraction tower and ended up pushing it all the way up to 70 for the best results. Other than that it worked right out of the box.

@mikesprague Год назад

Any recommendation for a CR-10S?

@chrisb1601 Год назад

So, I got this installed, but I seem to be having an issue where the filament backs out or breaks off and jams against the throat. It’s stops printing, I try to manually feed because there doesn’t seem to be a clog and it won’t advance. I have to pull the tubing and reinsert the filament down the throat. Is there anything I can do to prevent this?

@granolasticot6169 2 месяца назад

Bonjour, as tu trouvé une solution à ce problème ?