Just printed this, installed it with 4 polymer bearings and the difference is night and day. Really fine throttle control is finally available. Thank you so much for making this available to us.
I got it today and installed it with help of this guide. Works great, thanks! One small remark: at 2:41 you are showing the TWCS Throttle Properties, but these properties are from the standard windows drivers. If you have the drivers installed from the thrustmaster support site, you get a different interface without the calibration options. I had these drivers installed and I removed them by downloading the executable from the page in this post and running the installer. Then I got the options like shown in 2:41.
I bought this part with polymer sliders for Elite Dangerous. This is an awesome vid and good to follow up to the point where the calibration screen is shown. I have windows 11 and did not see this option. Solution: I reconnected the plug show @0:48 and started the game. I launched a ship into the black and set the throttle to the zero point. Do make sure you have not set a "dead-zone" in the options/control settings. In doing so I was able to put the detent magnets in the correct spot. I haven't even set a dead-zone after assembling. It goes perfectly to zero on the magnet. When putting the slider on, I could already feel the smooth sliding action. I chose the polymer, because ball-bearing might put wear on the slider rod. So far it feels great. It does not stick as the original slider. Quite happy with it so far.
Okay, so I bought this and want to talk about it! 10/20/21 my Adu upgrade kick arrived. I ordered the LM8LUU's which are the longer steel bearings. I play most DCS, but I also play Star Citizen & Elite Dangerous. If you are a DCS player I highly recommend the LM8LUU's! my fine control of not only the throttles in planes are greatly improved but my Helicopter control is so improved I can precision fly a DCS Helicopter when I had much difficulty before with the transitions from flight to hover. I also ordered the 50% and 70% detents but didn't install them yet. But I have them if I do. I can not recommend this mod enough. Talking about it does it no justice. You have to experience it. I can make micro adjustments, it makes this mediocre throttle a high end beast!
hi mate I am addicted to falcon BMS f16 viper. which bearing set should I use? Also, do I need to install detents for the f16 simulation? Is it neccessary?
Just installed this mod. Turns what would normally be a POS into a usable product. Stiction is completely gone, Went to split throttle with a 50% detent. I can increase/decrease the throttle in very small increments. Great upgrade.
Amazing product from the item itself, the QR Codes in the included guides was a nice touch. This upgrade was easy to do and made a huge difference in the precision of the throttle. I play Star Citizen and having the throttle indent at 50% is a must have. Great Product!!
I just bought the T16k for playing SC as well after watching a bunch of reviews. I think I may just bind reverse to a button and use full range of the throttle for forward.
@@alphastratus6623 Star Citizen - The 50% indent sets the throttle at 0 , makes it easier to go back and forward,.DCS would set it at 70% so that going over is the afterburners
@@Jonathan-Hack the semi-transparent colors are printed in resin versus I assume a PLA so will be a bit stronger. I don’t know that strength matters in this application, so mostly just looks. The LM8LUU is a long bearing and so you’d have only one per side. The LM8UU would have two per side. For the metal ones I’m not sure there is much functional difference. There is a polymer LM8UU version though, which offers a touch more friction and is also much quieter than a metal bearing while sliding.
Kind Sir :) I've received my order, which was very well packaged btw, watched your instruction vid and replaced the component in my Throttle ... Buttery smooth throttle and all i can do is convey my gratitude for your solution as the default component was a drag to play with. Again, Thank You! o7
Couple comments. First of all, TWCS shows their proprietary test software now when you go to Windows USB controllers; you can't see a percentage. I had to use calibration software for my VKB joystick to see anything close to an accurate value. It's called VKB JoyTester. It shows raw value in inverse. So in mine, 65535 is idle position. Multiply by 0.3 for the 70% throttle detent value (again, reverse, so 0 is full throttle). You get 19,660. Get as close as you can to that. Secondly, the adhesive that comes on the magnets is not very good. I very carefully cleaned the interior of the shell with alcohol and wiped and let dry. Then I pressed the magnets on until my thumb turned white and held for 30 seconds. And yet, they have come loose. So I redid this using gorilla glue. Directly onto the adhesive pads so I wouldn't mess up the spacing. So far so good. It's a very nice upgrade to the TWCS. It IS noisier because of the bearings, so keep that in mind. I play DCS. I recommend the user program "DCS-detent calculator." Then you set user curves for the axis. They don't have most planes in DCS in this program, but it helps give you an idea. Now I have it setup so my F-18 and F-14 have perfect MIL power at the detent and if I crack above it, I get afterburner. Can come back out of afterburner without thinking.
The solution for that will be to remove the TWCS drivers. It'll revert to the same display as the OP's. I know this is over a year old comment so sorry for the necro bump, but I thought I should add this in case someone in the future has the very same issue.
@@maxhestur5467 I'll just add to this that driver removal is not intuitive at all; when you rerun the Thrustmaster software installation it will ask you if you want to uninstall it, which removes the drivers. I spent about 30 minutes tonight figuring this out when I needed to move my magnets to a new throttle and re-cal.
@@porksandbean I see. Where is the 5mm spacer supposed to go? Also, which detents did you use? Are the detent spacers only dependent on tape size and not the position of the detent itself? Thanks for the reply!
OMG... thanks for the bit about backing off on the central screw... I just re-greased my TWCS and opened her up again after watching this vid to check that screw. Sure enough, I had it tightened too much and when I loosened it up a bit, the throttle action got even smoother. Basically ... when you tighten the screw and the washer starts to rotate with the screw, you've gone too far.
Solid Product. I have yet to break it in fully, but just after install... Night and day. The amount of force needed to adjust is consistent. I got a 50, 20, and 80 detent as I use this across multiple games. Please note that he labels the detents. I did not look closely and slapped the 20 where i wanted the 50. To that end, i think the curve of the plastic is adjusted on each detent. By that I mean my 20 practically slaps in place, my 50 has more play, and my 80 has even more play (keep in mind my 20 is actually labeled a 50). As such, i consider this a very well thought out project and look forward to its use.
omg i just got my throttle today and it's just as bad as everyone is describing. I thought people were exaggerating how sticky the slide is, but it really significant force to move it a small amount of force. Ordered my slide the other day, really looking forward to replacing it with your product :D
I downloaded the .stl files for this mod, thanks for making it publically available for those of us with our own 3d printers btw, which mm clearance do I need to print for a 50% detent?
An important information for the diy guys: I bought the cheapest linear ball bearings possible and I noticed a huge differente in the roation angle of the bearings: The balls should be aligned horizontal and vertical, no diagonal or it mess up the feeling of the slide when the actual handle is mounted.
@@Kopp203 does the clearance matter per the detent percentage itself, the thickness of double sided tape, or because different clearances could effect the strength of the magnet? Trying to sort out what I need for a 70% detent
This upgrade turned my TWCS from a disappointing waste of potential, to the best throttle for precision control there is. I used the metal bearings in combination with a very generous amount of Nyogel 767A, and this gives me the stable fine control I need for hovering and landing helicopters. Some people say they get problems with the Nyogel grease- if that's the case, it's probably due to not using enough. I added the Nyogel until it would not take any more, now it moves smoothly and precisely through the whole range of motion, like the dampened motion of a microscope dial, only linear rather than rotational.
I just installed bearings in my controller. In fact, the movement seems a bit smoother, but unlike the stock item, it is much louder, and when moving the throttle forward and backward, the bearings seem to run "dry". Have you also experienced such problems? I'm wondering if my bearings are just poor quality, or maybe some thick grease should be applied there.
I noticed with the magnets you placed at 70% the throttle was not staying at 0% but popping back to 6%. Is that the magnets still having enough strength to pull the throttle back? And is it easy to fix?
Just installed mine (without the brake) and it does the same thing. My magnets are at 50% and I don't think they are what is causing it. I think it is just the design of the throttle. With the crappy stock slider it's not a problem because it gets stuck anyway but when it's smooth like this it kinda rolls back to about 5% by itself with the weight of the throttle handle. You can re-calibrate your throttle to think that 5% is 0% throttle. Or you can do what I did and install the brake and tighten it up a bit. This completely stops the roll back to 5%.
Yeah, I just came on here hoping for a solution, as well. I have a 50% detent, FWIW, but my throttle will not stay at max forward - 100%. It 'bounces' back to 84%. I did not reinstall the brake plate so I guess that is not "optional", after all...
And yeah, you're right. You can evenb see in the video the throttle does not stay at the end of the travel but keeps 'bouncing' back each time. Dammit, I just spent $40 and 30 minutes taking my throttle apart for this!
@@Tailgun What bearing set did you get? I got the longer LM8LUU's and they are an absolute DREAM! I have no issues and such fine control it feels like a whole new beast. I will admit I held off on installing my detents as I want an external way of controlling the detent. And I did install my break bar but it is very loose. I would put that bar back in and see if it helps.
I printed the frame and the spacers out, brought some cheap bearings, and assembled it. Well now it is not just sticky but also very loud and also has some vibration caused by the spring break. I understand now why this is sold as a kit. :D If you try to get the bearings and print out the parts by yourself, be sure the print quality is good and you buy quality bearings or it will be worse. I also greased the rods with silicone spray before hoping for less stickiness, but that also seemed to made it worse and also I didn't clean the rods before installing this upgrade thinking it will be fine. It wasn't.
Hola, I installed it according to the tutorial but unfortunately the screw that holds the bridge of the potentiometer rubs against the plastic of the base and the stripe, I have to tighten it very hard but even so if I press the base in the center it rubs against the slider with said screw. Was there an error in printing?
I received my parts kit yesterday, 6 Jan 24, and this video does not explain with sufficient detail how to assemble the (new?) parts kit. I had to use screws from the TWCS to assemble the parts. I have parts that I could not install because there was no explanation. I was able to complete assembly and the TWCS works better, but I'm unhappy with this video. Are text with photos or drawings available that correspond to the new parts kit?
I just did this mod från ADU Labs, and the mod itself was pretty straight forward, But I've noticed that it's really resisting when going towards the 0% and 100%, to the point that it wants to move the whole throttle body. In the middle, around 35-65% range it's very smooth. Did I do something wrong, or did I miss something in reassembly? All buttons and values seems normal when checking calibration otherwise. I did buy the mod directly from ADU Labs, with the LM8LUU bearings.
The solution are the brackets for the rods. Thighten the 4 screws only step by step and move the slide all the time from bottom to top and back. So the rods set into a position when they doesn't block the slide.
Good day. Sorry for the late reply. It seems that Thrustmaster changed how the driver window works. It no longer gives the raw data. Unfortunately I currently have no workaround outside of installing 3rd party software. For now, the only solution is approximating the percentage using the graphical bar display
@@adulabs184 if people download joystick gremlin (its free) in the menu choose Tools > input viewer. In the new window make sure to check "Axes - Current" in the box labeled "TWCS Throttle". Axis 3 gives you data from (all the way forward) -100% to +100% (all the way back) with 0% being 50% (halfway) on the throttle. From there the rest is math for all the other settings. I selected 50% so mine was easy enough. to help others that come here looking for a fix. conversions for reference using your etsy values: actual stick = joystick gremlin 0% = 100% 10% = 80% 20% = 60% 30% = 40% 40% = 20% 50% = 0% 60% = -20% 70% = -40% 80% = -60% 90% = -80% 100% = -100%
Dont know the correct answer, but not a heavy grease! Careful its poly safe! If you do notice any sticking I would use some form of light oil sparingly, personally big believer in sowing machine oil... always works on all my RC helis clets and micro bearings. Hopefully ADU Labs informs us as I just bought their upgrade too lol.
@@thebait68 Silicon oils are better, because most plastics are resistant to those. It is also what Thrustmaster support suggested. I am personally using Silicone paste KORASILON® Medium viscosity for both T16000m gimbal and Throttle.
I use white lithium grease. I've heard said it isn't good for plastics but it hasn't been an issue for me and it comes sold in plastic. So I am unsure why that rumor persist that lithium because it is petroleum based decays plastic. I don't know if that is older blends of plastic or what. I've used on my TWCS throttle and its been on there for over 2 years and the plastic is just fine.
@@TaShadan Using a silicone based PTFE (Teflon) paste on my non-modded TWCS and it works great. Both the manufacturer and the salesman (who happened to be a flight-simmer, lol) call it safe for plastic-on-metal lubriaction.
I love this mod, but the cable that goes into the throttle tugs slightly when the throttle is all the way forward, and pulls the throttle back a bit when you take your hand off of it, is there any way to fix that?
I don’t know if you’ve figured it out yet… But mine kinda did the same thing. All I did was, rather than run the cables in the stock route, where they slip into the little notch on the vertical wall, and then run up around to the actual handle. I put them onto the left side of that vertical wall instead of going through the notch to the right side like usual. This gives the lever?/handle? Enough wire to go the whole distance without tugging on the wires.
Also there is another little 45 degrees wall that comes off that wall that I was talking about, where the wires have tape wrapped around it. Cutting/shaving down that protruding wall may solve the problem as well if you wish to run the wires in the stock location.
@@darksidetize5183 I never actually did solve it, so I appreciate your reply! Unfortunately I can't test it right now because I left that hotas at home while I'm in college out of state. Some day though I'm going to remember this comment and give it a shot (:
Nice Upgrades but for someone living in Germany/Europe not extreme interesting...sadly. The Price of the Mod itself is worth it...every Single Cent. But when you add shipping and Taxes you are near the 100€...thats more than the Throttle itself costs.
Hey man abit late but i also got high shipping prices so what i did was look for LM8LUU bearings and got them for 1 euro each from a CNC machine shop. For the 3D printed piece i simply downloaded the STL file from thingiverse for free and paid 5 euro at a 3D print shop to print it (Or ask a friend who has a printer/ Go to a university engineering shop). another alternative for the bearings LM8UU / LM8LUU is to buy them in aliexpress (although may take a week or 2 to ship) Hope it helps.
