It's been pointed out that you should probably wear a ventilator mask and work in a well ventilated space when working with acetone of this strength. According to hazard.com//msds/mf/baker/baker/files/a0446.htm, prolonged exposure can cause "coughing, dizziness, dullness, and headache." If you experience any of this, take a break and let your work space air out. It should go without saying that you shouldn't drink this stuff (these containers have warning labels, people). I missed this in my initial safety research and will strive to do better in the future. That said, acetone is regarded to be safe to handle with proper precautions. Stay safe, everyone! 😷
I also want to add, don't ever let someone give you a hard time for practicing proper safety. I have no problem removing these sorts of comments as they are toxic and add nothing to the conversation.
As solvants go acetone is pretty harmless as long as you take some reasonable precautions, it's not toxic waste or anything. Acetone only becomes a health risk if you are using it daily like in a nail salon. It breaks down into methane and ethane in a couple weeks and it's naturally occurring in small amounts in plants and animals as a byproduct of metabolism (you excrete naturally produced acetone in your urine). Also a typical ventilator as you would use for e.g. aerosol paints or cutting fiberglass or CF won't do anything because acetone doesn't aerosolize it evaporates into a gaseous state and will go right through it.
@@TableTopAckley there’s a big difference between actual safe practice and spruiking safe practice in the name of covering your arse against naturally stupid humans. Stick with your safe practice, mate, and don’t waste your time with the truly unnecessary over cautious safety messages. It really should be suffice to say practice safety, rather than spell out in excruciating detail every step made. Treat your audience with respect for intelligence; if not actually for intelligence, then for literacy ( altho I understand it’s a different concept in America) . Warning labels exist. That should be enough. Otherwise, let natural selection sort out the wheat from the chaff.
I am surprised by how many of table top hobbyists do not know this technique. Previously spruegoo was made with Tamiya Extra thin, i use it as an alternative to plastic cement as it glues and fills gaps at the same time. Tabletop modeling has a lot to learn from scale modeling when it comes to techniques and materials.
I'm glad it's not just me who thinks that, I was watching Squidmar paint that thunderhawk and he's free-handing chevrons, I'm shouting at the screen "MASKING TAPE YOU AMATEUR!" :-)
Then you'll love my most recent video where I badly freehand some hazard stripes because I hate myself! Of course I make no claims to be anything other than an amateur.
As stated before, about 1/4 to 1/5th of the remaining jar of the Tamiya "green cap" glue, just load in some cut sprue, works nice and an already known container proof against the solvent. I too applaud the safety measures taken.
to prevent the amount of bubbles you had: put the stuff you want to use onto baking paper and roll it out then take what you need off of it with a scalpel and use it. what you don't need you just throw just back into your jar
If you use tamiya plastic cement, hold on to an empty bottle. Then buy tamiya air brush cleaner (which is pretty much the same as the plastic cement). Put aprue in empty cement bottle, then some of the cleaner. Now you can more easily use this sprue goo to cover up gaps in models.
IMO the green is likely a small remanent of the chemical process but due to the larger amount of acetone in the 2nd batch it would be far more diluted. Really just a guess.
Tamiya quick setting glue with a few spruce bits is better (in my humble opinion) and it also sorts out the problem of the container being resistant to the contents… it’s also helpful if the consistency of the mix is fluid enough to be used with the tiny brush in the lid of the Tamiya glue. This method also negates the need for special gloves too…
Looks like it pretty much is. Don't take this video as a claim that sprue goo is the best solution. It's just a neat way I learned to use up old sprues.
@@TableTopAckley No criticism. I just looked at it and thought, it looked somewhat similar. Please don't take this personally. I appreciate every hobby creator, sharing stuff like that. It's always fun to learn new stuff. So your work is much appreciated. Edit: Maybe I should add, that I tried plasto. It's quite difficult to work with and it smells pretty bad. But like your sprue goo, it creates a bond with the plastic by melting it. I used it once, but to me it doesn't work that well as a gap filler, since it's quite sticky and you have to do lots of cleanup work afterwards. But maybe I haven't used it the right way. Maybe someone can share their experience with plasto or recommend a video that shows proper use. Or maybe you could try it out and compare it to the sprue goo.
I have seen another version of sprue goo where they melted the sprues into a jar of Tamiya Extra Thin Glue instead of Acetone. I wonder what the differences between the two methods would be?
Tamiya Extra Thin Glue composition is 50% acetone, so less strong and harmful. Do you want to save some money? Use Tamiya airbrush cleaner instead, it is exactly the same product but with different label (and cheaper). You can check the datasheets :)
Molds, yes, based on what I've seen from the Miniature Hobbyist. Sculpting I would think might be pretty difficult with how stringy this stuff is. Plus the acetone is going to start dissolving any surface you slap this stuff onto. Great for bonding, maybe not so great for preserving fine details.
@@SecretRedBeard Another tip for Greenstuff capes; use more yellow than blue in your mix and the cape will still be pliant and bendable even after curing, priming, painting, and 15 years (so far).
@@TableTopAckley is it really worth the health risks even with ventilation, when safer products exist? Might be an idea to add a warning on your comments section before people start corroding their lungs
@@tonysimonsen3228 I've added a pinned comment about masking up and working in a ventilated space. As for health risks, do you have a source I can use? Everything I'm finding basically says that the only significant threat at these types of usages is its high flammability.
@@TableTopAckley but you've removed that pinned comment as it only spoke about gloves and mozarella cheese, so don't be trying that on. Nothing about ventilation was mentioned. And as of now, no pinned comment about ventilation exists. You were told about ventilation risks by the previous person, and agreed it is a risk in the comment i replied to, so i find it unusual that you suddenly expect me to cite sources for info you claim to know, but forgot to mention.
Put too much sprue goo on there, and it will start to melt more than what you wanted. Nearly ruined a shadowsword filling the internal cavity with sprue goo to weigh it down.
It's only a few minutes of work and gives you a pretty good amount, and it puts plastic to work that otherwise would end up in the trash. This also isn't it's only use. I hadn't thought of baking powder, though, and I can certainly see how that can be a better solution for some people.
We all have our little things that annoy us. I've just been calling them sprues because that's what other people told me they were called. I am aware now that's not the case, but hey, language evolves.
Some of us just dont see much of a problem (aka we dumb af) i.e. i handle paint thinners without gloves because i was never taught not to and getting gloves it doesnt seep through is kinda hard ngl
@@AlexWithington Yeah I kinda get that, I stopped using gloves with resin and my 3d printer because I was good at not getting it on me but I don't fuck with acetone, might just have been how I was taught but I just don't
An alternative to acetone is using liquid plastic cement on cut up sprues (GUNPLA modeler's keep aftermarket glass paint jars with each color of sprue goo for their projects for this purpose). While the plastic cement method of melting sprues takes longer, it can be somewhat safer. I apply with a natural fiber brush so I can clean my brush in the acetone without worrying about the brush melting. However, it will break down the glue in the ferrel of the brush, so use an old paint brush that is past its service life. Most aftermarket glass paint jars have a seal that is unlikely to be compromised by acetone vapor, and there are plastic containers (mostly for foods) that won't melt with acetone. Obviously, you will want to test a container before using, and never put food in it again (less because of the acetone, more because of the plastic breaking down from contact with the chemical...). My experience with acetone in smoothing 3D prints has shown me that there are quite a few plastics that don't react to the acetone like PLA, and whatever they use to make refillable paint pens (which are great for applying small amounts of acetone to an area needing smooting or paint removed). ABS, styrene (sprue plastics) however love to melt, making chemical welding quite feasible for assembly, gap filling, and some modifucations like smoothing.
Tamiya super thin brush on glue, a lot of people use this because it is a plastic welder with excellent capillary action. Once you use about 1/3 of the bottle just get a new one and start dropping bits of sprue into the old one. Whalaa, sprue goo, with a brush on applicator. Also, I have never noticed this stuff being "porous", but I only use it for gap filling, which it excels at.
We all knew what he meant, and calling out the mistake is not useful unless you also provide the correction (Voilà). Let's try to be helpful to each other.
I'm preparing my Forbidden Sprinkles for a similar transition. Thought it was going to be a lot more complicated than just that. How long does it last? My worry is that it solidifies permanently and then all you've got is a solid plastic cube in a bottle.
@@draketheduelist never know one to go solid as long as you have glue in it and lid on it ok from what I’ve see some people add plastic weld to there’s as well to quicken up the process. You just keep adding bits of sprue or small plastic bits to the glue
sprue glue works a little better with tamiya extra thin cement I say this as its already a glue in its self and it atleast for me has worked better than the acetone it tends not to separate as much and also is easier in my experience to make thinner or thicker.... May cost a little more than acetone though but we'll worth it in my opinion
I'm glad you liked the idea. It does seem like you really need to pack it down, or even partially let it set before using it, to avoid those air bubbles. But I bet it ahears really well.
I know it as sprue glue. I use the orange tube of testors glue to make it usually since it's cheaper than other plastic cements. Never used acetone and don't think it would be as good. Scale modelers have been doing this for decades.
Great idea but I am allergic to acetone ......... cue the less toxic .. 'limonene' which is citric acid made from orange peel, it works just like plastic glue and Tamiya make it and I buy it in 1 litre cans in Spain from amazon.
Tamiya Extra Thin works better for sprue goo solvent. It’s expensive but go ahead and get Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner which is essentially the same thing but in a bigger container at around the same price
Before i got into 40K i built a lot of gundam models. Kinda surprised not many knew about this but i use plastruct to melt mine. (Acetone will be cheaper just so everyone knows)
After messing with this stuff quite a lot, it's the leftover acetone in the goo that is creating the bubbles. Small applications of well-smoothed-out coats set mutch harder.
Vallejo plastic putty is water soluble and very easy to work with. Dries quickly, but it can be rubbed of with alcohol (of so I heard). f you are someone who dislike the harder chemicals it might be the product for you.
I saw you use magnest to fix arms & co. Try instrad to use a single magnet inside the torso and a little nail intk the shoulder. So you have the magnetic joint and the friction of the material. I tried on vanguard veterans space marines (with some variants).
Acetone melted "sprue goo" has all sorts of drawbacks, but rubber cement style is glorious. Absolute game changer when it comes to assembly and gap filling
Sprue Goo aka dissolved ABS. The process is also known as chemical welding as the solvent will dissolve into the base material and allows mixing of the "filler". One major use of this technique is welding PMMA plastic together, with special "glue" that is essentially clear PMMA plastic dissolved in the solvent. One downside of chemical welding is you will never get all of the solvent out.
I've made Sprue Goo for decades and have filled everything except my own dental work. Acetone is an ideal emulsifier, but if you use too much your Goo will be runny and too "hot. " it won't cure correctly and may melt the host plastic. I use Tamiya Quick Drying Glue as my emulsifier and it acts as an ideal gap-filling adhesive.
User excelite_x over on reddit let me know that the cured sprue goo was porous because of the acetone's evaporation, which makes sense to me. I think in this case layer on the acetone is definitely the way to go, as each new layer will fill in the pores of the previous layer. Also, I didn't mention this in the video (and wish I had), but the sprue goo is very stringy, like melted mozzarella, so be vigilant while working with it!
If you need the good to cure less porous you need to apply pressure while it cures. Use blue stuff f ex, as it allows you to form the perfect shape to press on the object and the goo does not cling to it as much. There will still be pores weak points thought, and one might use green stuff to fill the small holes if necessary.
The results on miniature hobbyst always have the ocasional bubble or two as well, so it's perfectly normal. Very nice of you to put the chemical chart for glove material and the warnings. Acetone is a very harsh sustance.... yet it's so practical. Also bear in mind that if you ever have colored sprues (from ultramarines, or age of sigmar, etc.) the goo will in fact be colored! ;)
LOL Been Using Testors Liquid Cement with Brush to Make it For 4 Years Now Its Great Stuff I'm 61 wished I'd know. About it For use on Model Cars as a Teenager
THE PLASTIC DOESN'T MELT - *IT DISSOLVES!* This is a chemical reaction, the plastic is dissolved. Melting is though heat. Sorry but this is a real bugbear of mine, I always hear modellers saying that the glue melts the plastic together and it drives me mad :-)
It's alright, we all have our bugbears. I say melt because it quickly conveys the idea, if not the technicalities of it. Ultimately we just need to know that "plastic get squishy and stick together."
Didn't see if this was already mentioned, but could you not just fill with sprue goo and then instead of waiting for it to dry and drill, why not just put in the magnet while it was still wet and to keep the surface smooth, overlay some wax paper over the magnet in goo and use a small plastic clamp to keep it from spreading out and avoid any unnecessary sanding/cleanup?
That's certainly worth trying. I think my main concern with this would be the sprue goo making a mess as you pressed in the magnet, but with proper precautions it can probably be controlled just fine.
Do yourself an enormous favor and just add the sprue bits of choice to a bottle of Tamiya extra thin. Same process, a hell of a lot less mess and is mixing melted sprue with thinned glue...dries rock solid and can be molded and sanded.
For storage you can use HDPE plastic containers (look for the 2 in the recycling symbol), and the dollar store will usually have them in quart to gallon sized jar like form factors for, well, a dollar. You can also find acetone in the dollar store if you look at their nail polish remover. Hey the kind with the black cap that says 100% acetone. Usually comes in a 6-8oz bottle for a buck.... Which is $16-21/gal... Not a great deal but if you only need a bottle or two it's not bad This also works amazingly on styrofoam and even if you don't use the goo if you pour it out and let it harden into plastic you can either recycle it or at least sleep easier knowing it's taking up like 0.1% as much landfill space as it would have
I've used it to make some plastic sheet, and i'm building a steamtank, i've used it also to make some bases, but the curved cuts are not the easiest thing to do with 4 mm thick plastic
Top quality production on the video. Awesome job. I'm working on some guardsman myself, so this may come in handy if some magnets holes don't line up right.
Great question! The answer is at the time of this video I was not yet enlightened to the ways of Takiya Extra Thin Cement. It is definitely my go to now.
This is why the various model hobbyists NEED to keep up with each other on their methods and techniques and not dismiss anything. Everyone has different techniques that fit their specific hobby that may be transfered over. In this case Sprue Goo is a BIG part of the Gunpla(Gundam kits) and similar precolored model community. This is a key reason why it was more popular and well known in Gunpla then in normal scale model or even wargaming communities. There is less of a need to make a cement putty the same color as the plastic when everything is the same grey color that is getting painted over anyway. In the Gunpla community we use sprue goo to do things like fix up nasty nub pits, overly bad gaps(rare in Gunpla), or especially for customizing and you do not really want to repaint everything but just want to do a simple top coat and panel line afterwards. When you do the sprue goo right and with some sanding and filing, you will find it impossible to see where the sprue goo was even unpainted. HOWEVER, I HAVE A MASSIVE BIG IMPORTANT WARNING AND TIP THAT MUST BE FOLLOWED when using sprue goo like this. You MUST MUST MUUUUST use a pure thin cement, you want it to be 100% solvent ideally. Cements use a clear or white styrene filler to help thicken them up to different consistencies for different kinds of jobs. This filler WILL discolor the sprue goo. So you need the pure extra thin stuff.
If youre in the hobby you most likely have some sprues lying around. Who am I kidding we all have piles of this crap. And acetone is so cheap you might aswell turn the sprues into something usefull. And sprue goo just have so many uses. It goes great in silicone molds for example so you can basicly copy your favorite bits for free. The bubbles is however something you have to deal with it happens during the acetones evaporation. But the bubbles will be inside the hardened goo and not really on the surface. So if youre not going to cut into it after cutting into it its a non issue. And if it doesnt come out right you can always just throw it back in the jar.
I wouldn't bother using gloves for acetone in the lab as a chemist. The acetone will diffuse through the glove(even butyl ones) and get trapped between the glove and your skin, meaning that what was a 2 minute contact becomes a 10+ min (however long the gloves are worn) contact as the acetone has nowhere to go and can't evaporate off anywhere near as fast. Well ventilated space and safety specs are a good idea though.
wouldn't it be easier to use some 3d pen ? i use one from time to time to glue printed parts together, or, use a soldering iron replacing the tip with hand made one , melting and forming the original plastic.
Maybe, though this is the first I've heard of 3d pens. If you already have one, I say use it, but I also don't consider the sprue goo method to be difficult by any means. I think the real strength of the sprue goo is in the minimal cost and utilization of plastic that would otherwise be trash.
@@TableTopAckley i use plenty of methods to fix/patch things up, but yeah the goo method seems the best way from that point to re-use/recycle the old Plastic meshes instead of throwing it away
I'd be curious if you could get the ratio to a point where you could sculpt with goo? At any rate this is a great use for leftover sprues, which always feel like a waste going in the bin...il have to give this a go. The lid should have been fine if it was metal, there must have been contaminants of plastics on the interior lining. And the jar should be safe to store as long you don't allow it to get hot or agitated. Also don't pour it down your drain! It will melt your pipes! Dispose of it in a sealed container that won't melt and put it in the garbage. Great delivery and production style mate. Subbed!
Very good point about disposal! As for the lid, it was all metal except for that lining, which was some sort of rubber. I meant only to refer to that seal, but referenced the lid as a whole. Whoops.
may the sprue be with you, also the discoloration is normally because of dye or other additives and Miniature Hobbyist has said it's not a problem some of his acetone is just brown doesn't affect the end result cept if your worried about resin discoloration then just transfere the old acetone to a another jar and top it off with fresh (use the old for areas that your not worried about)
Eating through is an idiom for dissolving in this case. I see I wasn't clear enough that I was referring to the seal specifically, I'll try to be more concise in the future.
I needed model putty about about 40 years ago and had none. It was a holiday, everything was closed and I did not want to wait until the next day to work on my model. So I theorized that shaving some sprue with a heavy exacto blade and adding some Testors model cement from a tube would melt it into a thick plastic putty. I did it, and it worked. I kept the unused shavings in a "Cafe au Lait" tin with a lid. Now that I think of it... I wonder what the hell ever happened to that thing? If I ever needed putty quick and I had none, this was my technique. And you call essentially the same technique "Sprue Goo". Then that's what I'm calling my substance from now on. Great vid.
This is exactly the same way people who 3d prints make “glue/goo” to stick parts together or help the print stick to the printing platform. But I gotta admit I have been lax with some safety precautions. I may have gotten light headed a few time sticking parts together.
Use liquid cement rather than acetone. Humbrol liquid poly,Tamiya extra thin or Mr Cement S work really well and are considerably less dangerous than acetone.
hi so i make my own minis using pla and sometimes i have ones that turn out "funny" can i use them to make sprue goo since its pla and not just plastic?
My guesses would be oxidation or some type of reaction with the lid. Since that seemed to be the only difference. Unless you used a different set of pieces to melt down.
The second jar never discolored, so I don't think it's the lid. I did use different plastic sets, so that's a possibility, though it's all Games Workshop plastic.
