I have aftermarket control arms of unknown origin and they have the same ball joints. Normally I would swap all suspension parts at once but Brandon's inflation made that difficult at the moment. I was hoping there was a way to remove them and swap with moog for now and you guys proved what I knew to be true. Thank you for your sacrifice to demonstrate what others failed to show in there tutorials
using the grinder for the mushroom like surface was absolute on the spot advice. Once grinding those edges out, and just a bit more persistence with a small sledge hammer and the joint came out! Amazing video, thank you!!!
Gentlemen this is an outstanding video. I haven’t seen a video where the lower ball joint is removed like the one seen here since my Tahoe has the same one. I was looking for a snap ring or rivets but after seeing this video. Huge help! I took a hammer to the knuckle and it was seized up so I ended up just cutting the ball joint housing with a 7” angle grinder, haha. As for getting the ball joint out of the control arm, I will be doing the same with a chisel, dead blow and grinder. Thanks!
Great Video, Excellent vivid instructions on this. Thank you from the world for people like yourselves are the future of DIY and self knowledge. The internet is a great place to find such wonderful help. Your video on this subject was more concise and definitely easily solved my difficult in removing my old ball joint. Thanks..
a hint instead of useing a pickle fork, hit on the female part of the knuckle, while pulling apart with your other hand. works almost all of the time. heat helps too
You know if you have the right tools they take as long as the whole video to do. Even being in the North country. I love doing these and would do them every day
7:47 STOP!! If installing a new hub axle bearing, just back out the 3 hub bolts and hammer them from behind. This will drive the whole assembly out off the knuckle. Source junkyard or new bolts if you will reuse the old assembly.
So much easier to thread the hub bolts back in, then back them each out about 3-4 turns. Now, striking the head of the bolts, you can knock the hub out of the knuckle.
I'm in Florida , had my 02 sierra since 03 here. Just did my joints after 175k and they were not pretty but not even close to that corrosion. I feel your pain brotha.
I bet some garages charge 1500.00 i failed inspection . Bc of wheel bearing assembly.. .he wanted 600.00....i did it for 100.00..and a sat morning....good to see videos to help me out ..thx u
okay, so before you haul off and go to the local parts store and decide you want to do this.There's a ton of stuff left off here but the most important from my experience and I just did this yesterday, is the amount of force you are going to have to exert to get that ball joint off and on with that press. I"m a big guy and even having a great breaker bar and footing it was like I was going to shut a roid just trying to get this thing on, it is a PITA. Now when you are pressing it in the press is going to lean and make it much harder to go in fact like this video shows, the press is going to lean to the side just a tad, enough to make it dam near impossible. The other thing and none of these videos show it, is taking off the boot then making sure you put the boot metal ring back on while not cutting the snot out of it. Once you start trying to do this, if your's is pre-loaded your going to be almost SOL because that grease is going to rubberized the boot end making it to loose to really roll around the wring grove. Now if you you're lucky the metal wring is not distorted from removing the boot and you can get it to work. If you don't put on that metal retainer, when you go to load your joint with grease it's going to either shot out the top and or shoot down the boot. But FME, this was the whole part of the exercise and a real PITA. People really need to know this before they attempt it.
For next time... if you undo the tie rod from the knuckle you can remove the whole knuckle with the wheel hub still in the knuckle. lot less of a headache.
I have been beating on mine for an hour and they wont break apart (upper). I was watching this to see if i missed a step somewhere but, it looks like it is just seized up metal to metal.
@@kadenparry4136 Sure did. I cut the ball joint off with an angle grinder and then pressed the remaining stud out of the knuckle with a ball joint press.
How ya doing man? That rubber sleeve is it hard to rip or tear? I'm asking because my girl hard her ball joints replaced n the so-called mechanic ripped them n left them hanging there.
When a parts store sales you the wrong parts and causes damage to a truck had to replace all my brake rotors and hub brake caliper with hardware brake pads front wheel bearing should parts store pay for my damage
I can't take too much more from parts store the orilley near me is full of 16 year old assholes (not saying every 16yr old is) standing around. Seems like ever time I go someones got something to say about my truck damn parts stores are just agervating
I don't think it was a good idea for the old biker to push the ripped apart wheel bearing back together and use it. This job could have been a lot simpler if you just used the air impact and air hammer, way to much hack n packin
They could have just edited out that part. But I'm glad they didn't. They are not seasoned mechanics and made a mistake. It happens to everyone. And they fixed the problem by pressing the bearing back together. As an old mechanic I can say that bearing will be just fine if there wasn't any play in it to begin with.
