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Me, having tried to learn electronics back in highschool, done a lot of practice soldering and then given up on trying to learn where the current is going to go and decided on biomedical science instead: "At least he's heating the wire instead of... No Brian, what are you doing? No. Nooooooo!"
but that would mean you'd have to go and buy more tips. I just struggle through using the one tip in my soldering iron that is horribly oxidized and only one quarter of circumference the tip is good
You hear the pad which heats the pretinned wire and you flow solder into the joint. It looks like they got a cold solder joints because they heat the wire and then press it down.
Surely they could find a person in the greater Austin area who can work a soldering iron. At least someone who can give them a 10-minute lesson off-camera before they roll this episode.
(Not to mention... pretty sure their method is just sending the exact same 5v back in nothing extra, it'd be like shorting it directly) oh wait nvm, they've probably lost a load from their arcing soldering job
@Wazaag Break-head But even if you mainline a power spike into the HDD, that would just fry the controller and possibly the motor right? Recovering data off the drive would likely be childs play for anyone with the kind of equipment that can read straight off the plates.
@@NoName-zz9ls they're legendarily well made and upgradeable (at least the non-ultrabook ones). And they tend to not use weird proprietary hardware, so they play nice with linux. There's stories of old thinkpads (back when it was ibm making them) surviving house fires and being run over.
@@NoName-zz9ls They were originally designed by IBM, so they were designed as no-nonsense, industrial and utility-first computers. Tough and rugged, function over fashion upgradable, etc. Nowadays they are made by Lenovo (IBM sold it to them), and are still pretty good, though many of the new mainstream (ultrabook) ThinkPads are similar to other laptops. The thick workstation style ones still exist.
Jesus, they could have watched a 5 minute video on how to solder a joint properly. No flux, and the dreaded "hot drop" method are to blame for this failure.
@@RICDirector most electronics solder has a flux core. You still need to add flux. The flux in the core is just to make it easier to tin your tip and wire. It's not enough to make any difference when you're soldering your joint.
Don't put unknown devices I'm anything that is yours. That's the moto i was told. But a good rule of thumb in life. Just don't put anything you find in a PC or whatnot
oof that soldering is killing me inside guys lol you need both parts to be hot for solder to make full contact....you cant just touch an iron to a wire, wave it around like its a glowstick at a rave and expect it to attach
When they heated up the wire and then just stabbed the board, I cried. Also, when they talk about tinning the tip and then showing a disgusting tip, that was hilarious.
@@athands And then showing them heat the wire to fake me out, then melt a blob of tin onto the tip and then running the wire through it like it was hot melt glue...
The statement regarding air purifiers assumes that outside air is "clean." Check your local air quality index and decide if an air purifier is better than opening a window. Even if it does produce ozone, it's probably safer and cleaner than the air in Phoenix or LA.
An ionizer will pull a little bit of dirt out of the air (and deposit it on the table around itself) But if you REALLY want to clean the air you gotta buy a purifier that's just got a HEPA filter and a fan in it. Those things can work miracles. Wirecutter has recommendations for them but there's also this pretty great video where someone puts one in a box with multiple smoke bombs, worth looking it up.
They _did_ say, while talking to Babak about his USB killer, that they were able to get their homemade hack job to fry smaller stuff, so it sounds like they were later on able to get it to fry the tablet and game, but for some reason didn't include that footage in the video.
Should clarify - those little carbon brushes are there so that the high voltage has spikes to jump off the circuit into the air, ionizing it. The brush doesn't filter shit. It charges particles in the air which then find other surfaces (everything you own, particularly stuff that is electrically grounded) to stick to.
It would, except someone (probably in China) realized that it's much cheaper/easier (for some reason, probably a few cents) to make ozone generators instead. So these days most if not all "ionizers" are actually corona discharge ozone generators. Which kills germs but does very little for dust.
As Big Clive has talked about tons, this is an ozone generator type. He's got lots of videos of 11v and 120v version of these ion generators that discharge ozone.
@@KnuckleHunkybuck Yes, yet also no! FURTHER SPOILERS (?) Had Jason said "Tyler Durden" or "The Narrator" or even just "the main dude in Fight Club" he would have been ultimately correct. Though since he named the actor, rather than the character, he's still technically in the wrong :P
The best place to look for information on where the data or power pins or anything else is to look for that thing's datasheet! its a drag in the moment, but it saves a lot of guesswork. You can google most and find it in 5 minutes off your phone now
Rule 1: Get a pinout schematic for whatever you're working on Rule 2: learn how to solder A USB port can go offline with voltage fluctuations ... if I remember correctly, default amperage is 100 milliamps
I work at a recycling plant. I've found and plugged in many a USB drive. Saving grace is that I run Linux so the likelyhood of malware that can attack my system is small, and also I have a lot of computer and electronic components to fix any damage.
@@warialinth Yeah but you're more likely to not get hit my wide spread attacks such as on the web. As most instances of Linux are well CLI and Linux does come with a pretty good firewall. Eitherway it's much less likely to get malware than windows. Butttt still there is absolutely no point in saying it's safer to use. It's harder but still possible
@@warialinth I didn't say it was invincible, just that it's unlikely for someone to put the effort and money in to target less than 4% of the personal computers out their. I also have the ability to fix any damage that may occur. Killer USB's effect is dependant on how the USB port circuits were designed. Most times it just kills the function of that USB port.
worth mentioning that a lot of usb ports have optical couplers now, which electrically isolate the ports from the rest of the pc specifically to prevent this kind of attack
Built something like this a few years ago. I used a disposable camera flash (was powered by battery and shocked as soon as you put it in the USB slot). Worked mighty fine.
Oh, I remember these things! I’m only very mildly surprised that they still work even despite how easy it’d be to build computers in a way that isolates the ports and prevents it from damaging everything else, but such is life.
If I remember correctly that was one of the purposes of the USB killer. When this first came out commercially. Apple started using data line protection to protect from this kind of attack. Basically the port would have a special gate that would only allow data or in simpler terms limit voltage. Then tech enthusiast started doing destructive test to try and force companies to adapt. I don't think it worked but now we have the sub killer as a commercial product.
remember thats a much older computer. i think newer computers have much better protections now. At most you kill the port, instead of the whole computer
@@majorphysics3669 I found the name of the circuit. It's called an "opto coupler". I believe initially manufactures refused to do it because of the added cost but I don't know how common it is today.
@@majorphysics3669 I think it's still only Apple and maybe a handful others that do it. As Nathan helpfully pointed out the thing usually used is indeed an opto coupler, which pretty much makes sure that at worst it kills the individual port or group of ports depending on how it's set up. It essentially converts the data to an optical interface then immediately back to electric so a surge like this at worst fries one half of the converter and whatever is on the same side.
13:45 I actually learned something 🤣 being a maker working with LiPo battery somewhat frequently, knowing how to find out a battery is on fire is a great skill
Have you guys heard of 'ground'? The thing that basically protects every single electronic or even electric device? That thing that every casing and the outside of every connector and cable connects to? Why are you trying to electrocute ground and wonder why nothing is happening? (Probably because you wanted to promote redteamtools, but you could have looked a little smarter while doing it...)
I believe that the outer part of the usb is ground so when you try and shock it it shorts to ground to protect the important parts aka data lines. You’d have to connect to data line without being to close to ground parts.
seeing 3 people solder a joint like that makes me realize how well Big Clive has taught us, holding the iron in one hand, and both the work and the solder in the other
If the modern rogue has thought me one thing it is that, if it exists it’s probably there to be nefarious in some way and I have to thank them for me double checking literally everything I can think of because it might be something sneaky that I can use to my advantage.
I don't recognise that specific model, but most models in that era had the USBs on the left of the keyboard, directly on the mainboard - but the USBs on the right were on a daughter-board, so that might also be why the DIY one didn't kill it.
Random inonizier story. So I was working at a haunted house production company, and we had just did a show room that had 2 animatronic people being electrocuted in electric chairs simultaneously. To make the effect cooler, tesla coils were installed on the tops of them, and with the bolts of wild electricity zapping the air, it was like one big ionizing chamber inside there. There was a safety chain about 8ft from the tesla coils to catch a falling door, where an actor would glide out over the crowd from and fly around. The managers were worried that as the night went on, and the tesla arcs grew longer and longer, they would hit the chain or the actor, and one wanted to know if it would hurt someone, so he stuck his foot right into the arc of the coil as it went off. He forgot he was wearing steel toe boots, and that he was 8ft off the ground with no safety line on. He went stiff like a board, and fell right off the ledge onto a cement floor. He was fine, little sore, but gave us all a laugh
"Is it a rubber ducky? Is it a USB killer? You never know until you plug it in! - Hack and fry 16 detailed home devices including the new Tesla Truck." "10/10 Would watch magic smoke escape again. - Rock Paper Shotgun"
Okay honestly thank you guys for teaching me about tinning because I completely forgot what that did and I needed to know that because I'm doing a project right now that has to do with soldering and I can't thank you guys enough for that
Basic electronics knowledge would lead me to believe that you need to make a complete circuit and have the other data pin connected to ground for it to do anything, not half a circuit with one side connected to the high voltage and the other connected to nothing. Dunno if it would actually have worked then, but it would have been worth trying. Definitely look at some videos of how to solder as well. You do know about tinning the iron and the pieces to be connected, but the process is a bit different than what you were trying; you need to make sure both sides melt together smoothly in to one piece. Trying to heat one end up and then stick it to the other like it was glue doesn't give you a proper connection. Hold both sides together, then hold the soldering iron against them so the solder melts around everything, add some more solder if needed, then remove the iron. Adding some extra solder flux can also be helpful, but most solder is sold with a flux core so it isn't totally necessary in that case.
Corry is correct the outsides are power and the insides are data (also the bottom ones are just for holding it on The reason why its not working is because its arcing to ground instead of going direct to data If you want I can specially design a USB killer or a kit for yall to make
For a really good breakdown of how those USB air ionizers work and why they might break your USB ports even unmodified, there's an older video on the bigclivedotcom channel. He takes apart a unit that's pretty much identical to that one.
I have watched this channel for years now and loved it the entire time. But as someone who went to trade school for electronics, this one was so very painful to see
First part of this with them trying to kill the laptop reminded me of the LTT video where they were trying to kill a desktop using simulated ESD. They were intentionally trying to kill a PC with electricity and it was insanely difficult.
Fun thing about esd. You'd have to be plugged into an outlet to create enough esd to damage a board cause with the resistance of the skin any esd you output us way too weak to damage things like ram. Unless your working with the most fragile silicon chips made for like a satellite you aren't gonna have a problem while handling bare technology like when you're assembling a computer.
It hurts seeing them using solder like it's hot glue, melting it THEN making contact. You're supposed to heat what you're trying to join together and let it melt the solder.
Have you never watched bigclivedotcom's channel? The "filter" is a micro carbon brush which is like hundreds of fine needles. The devise creates a high negative charge on the brush. Electrons shoot from the very fine tips. The electrons ionize dust particles making them more likely to adhere to surfaces, thus taking them out of the air. Clean air, dirty everything else. It also make a little ozone from the coronal discharge.
USB 'plugs' self regulates, the controller of the device plugging in negotiates what voltage it will use. Your onboard USB ports may have considerably more buffer between it and the circuitry of the board.
Simply messing with the electricity in the ports is unlikely to break it. The reason it jumps to the outside and does nothing is because the outside is SPECIFICALLY meant to absorb and dissipate energy like that. It would be the same as just taking that energy and putting it in the ground. It needs to be tightly focused on those data pins, because it ABSOLUTELY wants to get grounded. That's whats happening when you touch electricity, it goes through your body to get into the ground, to dissipate the energy.
