Using boiled linseed oil to coat metal parts! A great option for a rust inhibitor! 

well wife, dont use oven you're gona be cooking food for eats in. Free radicals are real

@@Okiijiida Just an update to this comment. Raw Linseed oil is just flax seed oil, it is entirely non-toxic. What was used in this video was Boiled Linseed Oil, but it isn't exactly just boiled linseed oil, it has plasticizers, hardeners and other heavy metals added to it. It would be considered mildly toxic in large quantities and personally I wouldn't use an oven used for food in fear any spills could off-gas at the very least bad smells. The good news is it contains zero VOCs, so risks are minimal, though I don't like to take chances with my health. :D

Cool idea, What's your mix ratio?

Yeah I've got an 89 dodge truck that's got some wear on the hood, some spots down to bare metal but it's got a good looking patina to it. I plan on coating it in the same mixture to protect it from rust or further wear, but I've been procrastinating because I'm afraid I'll screw it up somehow. I park it in a carport but because it's open air I worry that dust or debris or even birds or cats might ruin it

could you apply some kind of food colorant and make it a different color?

@@MrLuigge bad idea. Sugar n all. Most colors won't survive the heat. Buuut. Actual artists oil paint is mostly based on linseed oil too. So yeah just pigments or oil paint. However then you probably better just let it dry (weeks n months) or try much lower heat.

@@MrLuigge It was as I suspected but I had to try. Liquid food colorant is water soluble and doesn't mix with oil. It's like trying to mix oil and water. Tried with Dr Oetker blue food colorant and it didn't work at all. Now I've got a blue finger cause it sticks very well to skin.🙂

@@skunkjobb why not try oil based stains or dyes? Not sure if they’ll stick to metal but they work weird with wood too so good luck lol. I occasionally use them with my first layer of BLO+mineral spirits (1:1) on bare wood. If I add the dye or colorant just use enough to get the color you want on a test piece of wood. I find a 2:2:1 (BLO:MS:stain) ratio works great with stains. Not sure about heating it or expecting it to stay. Oh, and never breath the fumes of BLO smoke. They put cobalt in the oil to accelerate polymerization and cobalt fumes are toxic and cause horrific birth defects in the poor souls who survive long enough to f*ck after they mine it.

Always wondered! I use it as a tiny C-Clamp. Thanks for letting us know what it is!

@@1D10CRACY Ohh .. IC .. guessing is supposed to have a second bolt to pinch the beam ...

@@VorpalForceField The second threaded hole gets the threaded rod that drops down to hang whatever on.

@@Blazer02LS cool deal good to know TY

Was about to say the same thing. I don't see many this style, but we use them all the time. That's also why it's stamped with the size of threaded rod it takes, as you can get them in different sizes.

Really? Never heard of

Very true. It's called oxidation, and all vegetable oils oxidize even the supposedly edible oils. That's one of the reasons they are not good for consumption. Fats do not oxidize. All forms of oxidation cause heat to some degree. A fire is oxidation of its fuel. The reason oily rags spontaneously catch fire is because they can hold the heat inside the crumpled rag.

It's on the jug of oil but most people don't read it

It is indeed. This one is marked for 3/8-16 thread, which is the thread pitch on the allthread that would be hung below it.

And you call yourself "NoExpert"! ;) Thanks for the explanation!

@@1D10CRACY Same idea as your cast iron pan

Most mix it with wax (and some mineral spirits) to massage onto warm steel. Linseed oil is just non-food grade flaxseed oil. Boiled linseed oil is just that lower grade flaxseed oil with metallic driers. You can season cast iron skillets with food grade flax seed oil and it makes a very hard (but brittle) coating. I’d avoid using hardware store bought boiled linseed oil on food surfaces and NEVER on s cooking surface. The metallic drier used these days is cobalt. The name comes from when they used to add lead back in the day and the oil had to be ‘boiled’ before it would mix. They never actually boiled it but the name stuck. Cobalt fumes are really really toxic so only heat it past it’s smoke point under a fan and outdoors. Some of the most horrific birth defects are found in children of cobalt miners that live long enough to procreate.

yes but only use raw not boiled on a skillet

it's not self healing but it will take a new layer well. heat or not heat both fine. not heat very very slow with raw linseed. "boiled" oil has metallic dryers

How long and at what temperature do you season your cast iron? If it has the polymerized coating can you wash with soap and water? Or leave out the soap?

@@chelsibovingdon573 bake cast iron cookware at 500 degree F and an hour and let cool in the oven. Do that three to four times. All my cast iron cookware are non-stick and washing them requires just hot water. I wipe dry them and warm them up then apply a light coat of oil.

Great suggestion! And I like using Peanut Oil, which has a 500-degree smoking point but I have heard that avocado is great.

Flax and Lin are two names for the same plant, so flax seed and linseed oils are actually the same thing.

the difference though is that "flax seed oil" is guaranteed to be raw linseed oil. you can't use "boiled" linseed on a pan because of the heavy metal dryers

Same same

this was the kind of comment I was looking for, so thanks.

Um…400C is approximately 750 F. I don’t know of any domestic ovens that would reach that temperature or even close. 😂😂😂

I will dry just in air too, but it takes a few days to be dry to the touch. Probably more like a week to fully cure all the way I imagine. If you use raw linseed oil (not boiled) it will take much much longer, so not practical. I used boiled linseed to rust protect a beat-up old chain used for a saltwater boat and let it air dry. It worked well. Almost like a clearcoat, and I haven't seen any new rust on I restored it.. My result was a bit less amber I think, so possibly baking it may bring out the color more - but its hard to say because the chain was very dark to begin with.I hear linseed oil generally yellows a bit over time. Wouldn't be surprised if heat speeds up that process dramatically.

A year late but you can simply spray your sign with clear. Matt clear if you don't want to change the appearance, or gloss (might be too reflective). That said I've never heard of rust washing off LOL most of us only WISH it was that easy!

Govdeals.com

You don’t need anything on top of bare metal to powder coat. Powder coat is your coating and no need for anything else.

It should be ok, your really not getting it hot enough to change the temper.

@@1D10CRACY Thanks for replying 👍

I wouldn't think so, as linseed oil is an oil.

If you already have the answer please disregard.... You DO NOT have to bake linseed oil ... It wil polymerase as soon as it hits oxygen ... It WILL however take quite awhile to cure ... It will take on more of a clear coat though ...

@@papimiami1938 Thanks. I made a paste with fractionated coconut oil and beeswax. Applied it like wax after cleaning the metal. It is indoors (desk frame/glass top) and so far, so good. If it rusts a little here and there, so be it. Looks great. Can support 2,000lbs. easily. Bought legs online- square steel, then welded 3 supports.

@@MOAB-UT that's awesome ... I am a ironworker by trade so it sounds like a cool project ( we build all our tables also ) ... especially if it will hold up that much weight

@@papimiami1938 Fun project. Glass top is thick so 100lbs. so I wanted it to be strong. Legs were $200, thick 1x3" steel raw. 54" 1x3" raw tubular steel to go across. Local expert welded it up in a day- 2 across the top, and one down just above the floor in the back of the desk he said would help with stability. This dude welded the world trade center- real pro and did a great job...for $100!

Fahrenheit °F

I know it will dry pretty quickly, and I bet it would provide good protection. I just don't know if baking it on is better or not.

It should be pretty decent without curing in the oven, but it'll take a few weeks to dry. Plus the excess oil is super dangerous if you're soaking it up with rags, it's a very energetic exothermic reaction as it dries and will spontaneously combust in open air.

But don't miss the content after 0:08.

400f, an hour may be overkill. My oven is an old lab oven, so it's pretty efficient.