Thank you for all these videos. I just took my 500c out for the first time after watching your videos. I am beyond delighted at how easy it was to use. The EV scale makes it so easy to select the appropriate aperture / speed combos. The big viewfinder is fun to use, and not needing batteries even for the light meter / winding knob is a wecome feature. I can't wait to see how my first roll comes out. Thanks.
First let me say a BIG thank you for straight forward explanation of this camera series. I just bought one and was looking for a video on how to use. After watching this video, I know the anatomy of the camera and dos and donts. I am so grateful for you sharing your knowledge of this masterpiece and of course add to the thumbs up and indeed subscribed! off to watching more of your videos on Hasselblad. Again thank you! GRATITUDE!
Only Just found this channel after buying a 500 cm and SWC , Excellent oration with simple instructions ! Well worth the last few hours catching up on all your programmes so far!
@@WorldwideCameraExchange thanks! I just met the gentleman selling the camera on behalf of an elderly relative. I drove 2 hours. He brought the WRONG CAMERA. Now I’m just sitting at a mall waiting to see if he can go grab the correct camera. He did bring the 150mm F4 lens, but when I twisted aperture ring, the blades weren’t moving. Dang…
@@WorldwideCameraExchange Sorry I just happened to have one question, did you get a chance to use the CF100 lenses, and would you recommend this lens over the CF80? Thank you!
Hello Mr. Harris. My name is Richard Williams, 71yr old from Tulsa, Oklahoma and a photo enthusiast from 1965, can't stop, or care too. I'm using Lumix G9 and Nikon D850 and wanting to get back to the roots of my beginning with film. That being said my question is. I'm having a hard time understanding and finding any information on the difference between the Hasselblad 503CW and the 503cxi. Any information you could share with me would be so appreciated. I have both models available near meb in new plus condition with all papers and boxes at the $2,500 price range. Your videos are awesome with very helpful information. Take care and thanks ahead of time.
Hello Mr Williams. Both are exceptional cameras. The main difference is that the 503CW takes a winder (which I would NOT recommend). The 503CW is newer so that would be my preference, all other things being equal. But, that said, I’d always choose a clean 503CXi over a tatty 503CW. Also check the lens and back supplied with the cameras and make sure they are contemporaneous. Ideally you want the CFE version of the lens.
Great video, easy to understand. However, there are two things you did not mention (which, sadly, most You Tubers don't mention either) - 1.When attaching a film back to the camera after loading film, ALWAYS check to be sure the camera shutter is cocked and ready to fire before attaching the back. 2. For some strange reason, no how-to videos seem to address the Red/White indicators on the film back, and on older 500 series bodies. On the film back, white indicates a fresh, unexposed frame ready to shoot. Red indicates an exposed frame, and must be advanced before firing the shutter. On some 500 series models, there's also a Red/White indicator on the body, very close to the indicator on the film back. On the body, when it's red, the shutter needs to be cocked. When it's white, the shutter is cocked and ready to go. In short, you need to see both as white before firing the camera. Two reds mean you have just fired the camera, and now need to cock the shutter, which will also advance the film to the next frame. With a mix-match of red & white, you need to remove the film back, and either cock or fire the camera. Note - Both indicators should always match in color.
Thanks for commenting. These videos don’t and shouldn’t replace the user manual. They’re an overview and only cover the more significant points. But, yes, always cock the camera before changing the lens or back. Hasselblad dropped the white/red indicator because it was seen as unnecessary … although I suspect cost cutting was also a reason. Hasselblad also removed the crescent-shaped indicator showing how much film has run through the back.
Hello Jonathan, My 503cw exhibits a little back focus issue with all lenses. Is there a solution I can run on my own? Please make a video on this if you can. Thank you.
Hello Jonathan. Not sure if you are still seeing these comments. This video was extremely helpful and probably one of the best I have see providing an overview of the 500 series. I have a question ...I am looking to get a 500series Hasselblad for landscape (mostly B&W) ...what lens woould you suggest as my first lens . Thanks
Glad it was useful - thank you. An 80mm lens is the best for general use. For landscapes perhaps a 50mm moderate wide angle and/or a 100mm moderate telephoto. It really depends upon your personal artistic preferences.
Hey Jonathan, I recently bought the left hand grip for my 500CM. However the bottom plate screw mount secures the camera just short of the shutter trigger making contact with the shutter. My bottom mount shoe has both the mounts, the handgrip only has a ¼ mount screw. When this is attached to my camera bottom plate mount, the trigger of the hand grip doesn’t make contact with my shutter. If I push the camera forward, the shutter trigger does make contact but the screw is too small for the bottom plate mount and the camera isn’t secured in the grip. Do you have any suggestions for this dilemma? Many thanks
6x6 and 2 1/4 square are the generic terms used for the square format used by Hasselblad (and Rollei, Mamiya, Bronica etc). The Hasselblad image size isn’t exactly 60 x 60mm or 2 1/4 x 2 1/4 inches. For clarity, yes, it’s actually 56 x 56mm. This isn’t something that concerns the vast majority who just get out there and enjoy their cameras.
Hi Jon. I just got a 503cw. One odd thing i noticed was the the acute matte D screen split prism is will be half-black unless i look at it at a very specific angle. Is this a common quirk of the camera?
Yes, that’s perfectly normal with Hasselblad (and other cameras too). Try to keep your eye directly above the centre of the screen. It can be worse with the non-standard lenses. The screen without the split image may be a better option for you if you continue to struggle.
The best option is to have the coverings replaced. It’s not a cheap job because the existing adhesive has to been completely removed but it’s worth having done.
Plenty of information online covering all the differences. Also check out Jon’s video: Buying a used Hasselblad? Checks to make when buying secondhand (500C 500CM 503CX 503CW 501C 501CM). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--VXnFc6MvTw.html
