You can do it with a simple soldering iron and some good flux, if you tin the tip with the right amount the flux does the rest and flows into the pads. Is not as easy, but is really doable.
Turns out this is easier to get set up than you might think. An SMD hot plate for electronics can be gotten new off eBay for $100. Check out OSH Stencils. Used to be that stencils would cost $100 for stainless. Now you can get them from OSH for $15 depending on the size. No need to even go the plastic route when you can get stainless. I used to do this with a pneumatic solder dispenser when stencils were more expensive. Haven't used that device in a long time now. I'm getting low volume boards these days from Seeed Studio. About 1/2 the price of other places and quality seems just as good and turnaround is the same.
Randy, thx for the info. I'll look into it. The flex I needed to fix was on an old electric typewriter, and turns out the "traces" were just spray painted onto the flex, and then another piece of flex somehow afixed over them. How friggin' cheap can manufacturers get? Have come up with no way to fix it, not sure if there is one that would really work.
Even a lady 👩 like me managed to do this with my George forman grill. I even had a couple of burgers whilst it was still hot a few minutes afterwards. Kill two birds one stone as they say
A TV Panel (lcd, oled, plasma...) has ribbon cable COF bonded to the Panel itself. Would this paste with a slim hot element also work to bond ribbon to a Panel?
@@spacefury65 My mistake, this has 20 connections. We use 18 of them. eight on one end for +12VDC and eight on the other end for GND, to heat the bed, and the center two for the RTD reading.
