I've used dyna mask in the past and find it ok (so long ago that I looked this video up as a "refresher course" before I finished the boards I'm currently prototyping). I bought some UV cured liquid at the same time, and had no luck with it🤷♂️. I tried both today after watching this, and I'm pretty much sold on the liquid- it seems to cure harder and withstand lead-free soldering temperatures better (with my curing systems), so thanks for dual tutorial!👍👍 Oh, and my premixed tin plating solution had gone off since I last used it, so thanks for showing the label on your tin bath, I bought some powder from this supplier, and it should last me for ages (I only do small boards, so dissolving 18g in 200ml gives me enough to work with for a few weeks, then in a year or five I can make a fresh solution using the long shelf life powder) more thumbs up and thanks for this👍👍
Masking is great way to protect PCB design, but I still use the old school spray insulating electrical Clear Varnish for personal use. Masking is for somehow for commercial use and really great selling the PCB made.
Thanks for this. Was not sure how I used the UV solder mask ink. Just one question, was it just Isopropyl Alcohol you used or in other video I have watch, they use 'PH Increase' with water?
I do like the dynamask. While it's more steps, it looks easier to apply. I am not a big fan of the UV process though. If I wanted to fiddle with a mask and that quite often is not dark enough I could just etch the PCB instead of using the CNC :) Also: I see Adams Readi Board... Are you guys RC aircraft pilots? :)
I know what you are saying Balu :-) It's so convenient just having CNC doing "all" the work while you can focus on other tasks. Must check it out! Yes, we used to fly, just have not found too much time the last couple of years. So we need to try harder as it is both fund and recreational!
Thanks, your videos are great! I just tried the method using the UV paint, and bizarrely I get the opposite result from what might be expected - exposed paint comes off, stuck to the transparency film, but the uncured regions over the pads remains perfectly on the board. An almost perfect inverted result. I wonder if this is because I haven't cured it enough, or that I have bought a transparency film which the paint really likes sticking to!
Hi! Sounds like it needs more curing. It the paint still sticky? It is supposed to be, more or less, cured where there is no print on the film. Also, try to roll it off by curving (almost folding) the film and not lifting it straight. Hope it helps :-)
@@DIYTECHBROS hmm, thanks! I'll give that a go. Strangely, the cured areas pull away from the board cleanly, and are not sticky to the touch at all. Which made me think that they must be cured more or less all the way through...
Sounds strange... have you cleaned the PCB with some subbing alcohol or acetone? Different companies put different protective "oils" on the boards to avoid oxidation. You can also sand it very gently (do not take off to much copper).
@@DIYTECHBROS :D i actually did all of these things! - IPA, acetone and light sanding. One thing did strike me, however, the PCBs I'm making have a filled ground plane on the track side, so are almost entirely copper, which I'm thinking may not have such good adhesion compared with the base material. Although I haven't had a chance to test this theory just yet.
@@DIYTECHBROS I finally managed to get a decent result, mainly as you say with the peeling technique, essentially folding the film right over on itself while peeling. Also my LED torch, i'm fairly sure, isn't very effective (perhaps the wrong wavelength), but leaving the board in the sun (even on an overcast day in the UK) worked quite well. Thanks :)
That's excellent input! We really should have done that. There were no "error" to warn about, so we forgot that a good would also be important to show. We will include close ups next time!
Can't seem to find really any info on this subject, what if you thinned the mask down with mineral spirits and airbrushed it? Imagine all the cool effects and colors with airbrushing?
You are a best what uv light using in wat and is this a dynamask 15CMx2M PCB Portable Photosensitive Dry Film for Circuit Photoresist Sheets 1M Brand New For Plating Hole Covering Etching
Excuse me sir, what is type of your printer what did you used on your transparant Paper? Can you tell me about the name of your printer too?, if you want it.
Hi Gambang! We are using a laser printer and printing on overhead paper (printable clear plastic) We have a old HP printer but any brand will do. This printers can often be bought cheap secondhand.
Yes, sure! That's super easy. Just buy liquid tin, or tin powder that you mix with water - and drop the PCB in the liquid. See for how long according to the product you use, and rinse it off. That's all!
The UV mask is cures with UV light, like the sun. The liquid is for tinning. It applies a protective cover to the copper, and also makes it easier to solder!
@@DIYTECHBROS Apparently the translator does not translate well! After you applied the UV mask, you covered it with a photomask, then illuminated it with a UV lamp, but then you wash off the unlit areas of the mask with a brush. I'm asking WHAT IS THIS LIQUID? Give the link. And what you write about tinning is already the final stage. He is not interesting to me.