Also, to save ages of drill time use 1 1/4" white Bosch holesaw bit first then use 2" white Bosch holesaw bit after. Works a treat and sounds great no problems at all
i can't believe the weld broke so easy where that pipe goes into second baffle, i had to rock the heck out the pipe on mine to break the weld, they sound pretty good but in the end i put some roadburner street pros on, nothing i did to the oem mufflers can compare to sound of roadburners and i started like you with a final baffle removal then removed the next one in and finally a full gut
Great video but I noticed a slight backfire which is usually indicative of a lean mixture of the carbs. Did you have to re-jet it? I agree about the muffled sound of the stock pipes. On my V-Star 650, the wind noise drowns out the engine exhaust to the point where I cant hear the engine which I find annoying.
I think mine needs a jett adjustment but I will change the Air filter to pods then jet it . Now with drilled out it seems a lil lean. It seemed a lil lean stock anyway. But surly a big help as far as 0 to 60 .. . I may dig out more crap out of that muffler like the cat int there !
@@dominicbedanhowto7026 You did it the correct way in the video, I've seen people take out the entire retaining wall for the baffle and they suffer performance loss. But making the smallest hole you can to get the baffle out is the best idea, because the left over cone at the end allows for some back pressure which helps the engine.
Hi there! 2006 Vstar 1100 custom My wholesaw went all the way in, but the baffle doesn't come out, I even tried to pull with pliers and nothing. Can anyone help me out here? Thanks
After this mod you will DEFINETLY have to rejet the carb. I know this because I did the same thing. It may run ok for a little while but it will start to run like crap until it eventually wont run worth a damn. The engine will run too lean if you don't rejet possibly causing engine failure.
Take off all the oil lines from the unit but research it first as I've never had an 1100 . There is a video on RU-vid to remove this unit I just can't remember what it's called but I'll look it up@@bryancurtis24
Just been out trying this and can't get the inner weld to break. No where near as easy as it seems in the video and I'm a mechanic. Also takes a hell of a lot of drilling
isnt the top pipe fake? ive got one and it isnt even connected to the rear cylinder. the real one goes out under the bike and connects up to the bottom pipe i believe.
J R I didn't, it backfires a little bit but it doesn't really bother me. also when you have it on full choke and you revit up it'll shoot fireballs. check out my other video to see and hear what it sounds like. I'll be modding the hell out of this bike so like And subscribe if you want some good quick no BS pointers on how to make this bike badass
J R nice ! use a bigger drill bit than I did in the this video. I went back after and used the biggest bit that would fit in my exaust. it made it sound better and look cooler.
Everyone talking like it’s so easy I’m destroying my tips on the exhaust I can’t get one out and I’m wiggling beating the crap out of it. I’ve rebuilt motors and can’t get this dang baffle out.
Just did this to mine an it didnt work for me. Got through both pieces an still wouldn't come out. Ended up cutting the whole end off from where the cone starts an completely removed the baffles.. Sounds Good to!
U have to get by another tier on 1100 it takes some work but video is wrong it's not easy I see lies don't waste time on video u have another tier to get by for this to work.
@@thomasmclaughlin1222 early model 1100 are easier to do this to. mid to late models had catalytic converters added and makes it alot more complicated like u mentioned.
