I've been looking at plenty of van videos and this by far is one of my favorite. Very detailed and good quality work from start to finish. It's in my saved videos now. Thanks.
@@maldm004 wow thx, glad you enjoyed it. I just posted a second vid about the insulation/bed, and I’ll keep posting vids as I continue the build process
Mine was about 10 times dirtier than that, haha; it took me two full days to clean the interior! It was a carpenter's van for 19 years before I took it over. I'm impressed by your attention to detail with this, this is more detail I've seen than on any other cargo van floor install.
Thank you so much for this. I’m about to start my build. I wonder of you can do a video on what you will do with the wire harness that runs along the driver side to the back? Besides the lights what else are those wires doing?
I'll probably just pull the ceiling lights off and leave the wiring harness in place and just build around it. I think the wires are responsible for the ceiling lights and tail lights/3rd brake light I considered re-routing the wiring harness to inside the upper pillar (instead of outside of it where it currently sits), but I think I'd have to cut wires to do so and it would just be a pain and not worth it for me. Good luck with your build!
@@shevy5000Thank you or responding. I was able to figure it out and put it thru the metal channel like I wanted. I was even able to keep the pre-existing light.
@@shevy5000The wiring harness is connected in 4 locations, the center light, the right and left tail lights and the top rear reverse light. The hardest part was learning how to disconnect things. It's not easy to figure out. I kept texting my brother photos and asking what part do I push to disconnect things. Once I figured that out, I labeled things so i would know how to reconnect everything. Oh and one more thing to disconnect is a bolt on each side. I think these are grounding wires. I connected my wires back before connecting these and it caused my backup alarm to sound constantly. Once I put these bolts in, alarm stopped and lights have been working fine. I used electrical tape to loosely wrap wires in a way that ensured the ones that needed to each the furthest distance, to the passenger light, kept its length, if that makes sense. I left the center light in its light brown housing. I did not wrap the chord and the lights housing to tightly to the main harness as when i was pulling it back thru, i pulled it out by itself one of the holes hat is sort of at the center of the van, as I think I'll keep it as a lighting source. I hope this helps. Since this is my first time, I'm probably not that great at explaining it.
@@shevy5000no i did not have to cut any wires. For a second I thought I would have to cut the center light because I didn't think it would fit thru the hole, but it did. I think using the electrical tape is key as it holds enough but not too strong that when you need to unwrap things at the end that you can't tell. I also did not take off ALL the old tape, which i'm grateful I did not. It was easy for me to tell the difference between old tape and the new tape. The old tape helped me not get confused by so many wires. When things got a little what seemed jammed, I found pushing from the origination hole, then going hole by hole and pulling worked best. Also i used a bungee cord at the far end to pull a little.
Thanks, there were threaded holes already built into the metal floor (for the factory tie-down hooks) Those holes are what the bolts went into, after removing the tie-down hooks
@@shevy5000 ahh ok, interesting. I have an Express passenger van and currently dealing with the dreaded seat rails and don't have the tie downs like yours. Trying to decide what direction to go with the floor. Love having the windows but these seat rails are brutal to deal with in a passenger model!🤦♂️ But thanks for the response and awesome video! 👍
@@MikeTython369 thanks man! Ah gotcha..I imagine if you wanted you could just drill a hole and put a bolt through and thread a nut on from under the van? Or could just skip the bolts and rely on construction adhesive, and as far as front/back movement the floor should be held in place by the wheel wells etc. Just won't be held downwards in the event of a rollover or something Good luck with the build! I've seen plenty of passenger Express conversions so there must be different ways people go about it
I would have rather you seen you use marine-grade plywood than OSB... Of course the price is substantially more but the quality and length of the last is also far longer under much worse conditions.. and your floor always takes the most abuse..
I used advantech instead of marine ply because it should be less prone to warping over time. Keep in mind the advantech is different from traditional osb, which I would NOT recommend using
foam was stupid idea. plywood wrong type and size you should go with engineered 1/2 in with glue directly to the metal. this is very good glue you used. wasted time for having less room for your head.
I was concerned about that too initially, but it should be fine because the load is spread out quite a bit with the 3/4" wood on top. The foam can hold a lot of weight when the weight is distributed a bit - it's just not good with point loading which it doesn't experience in this setup
