Vapor Blasting and Cerakoting Engine Cases 

Hey Dark Knight! That’s so nice of you to say! The channel is growing so hopefully soon you’ll be saying something like, “I remember when you had less than a thousand subs” and have chuckle!!

Hehehe Nice!

Thanks man! It does work really well.

Slowly, but surely! They are coming!

Hey Scott! Thanks! I spray at about 20 PSI. But the distance from the gun to the part affects the “effective” PSI. I have a more recent video on Cerakoting that discusses more about application considerations.

I’m going to have another cerakoted motor video coming soon. This one is a pit bike motor. And, thanks for watching! Subscribe if you haven’t already. I’m trying to hit 700 subscribers by tomorrow if I can!

Hey Travis! Thats nuts! It really is a small world! He lives in Utah now.

Hi ELSDP. You could spray clear over color provided you applied the clear within 45 minutes of color application. But, it’s not necessary for any extra protection.

Cerakote "C" series is ambient cure. I prefer it really.

Thanks!! I have another Cerakote video coming out soon on Cerakoting a Pit Bike motor.

I’m very familiar with applying Cerakote and have had multiple interactions with the technical departments there. If you want to shoot Cerakote on a firearm, by all means, it doesn’t hurt to dry blast it, of course. If you are familiar with motorcycle cases, you may know that the surface is not a “nice (sic), shiny surface. Its is a cast surface. So, what it really boils down to is your expectation of the surface appearance after preparation. And the adherence of the media to the substrate is far more dependent on cleanliness than blast media. I have sprayed countless parts using my techniques. So, rather than suggest that I’m not doing it right, perhaps just do it how you like. My results stand for themselves. I have had ZERO delamination issues using my techniques. Feel free to make you own videos, but my instruction and techniques are proven and right on as my result bear.

Hi Brian I respect that you do anything the way you prefer but don’t forget that a lot of RU-vidr (like me too) watch videos to learn and improve procedures and in exchange we thankfully support such RU-vid channels in good faith that your instructions are (Cerakote) correct. You owe it to your supporters that, at least you tell them that this is not how Cerakote wants their products applied to guarantee long life and mention that this is „your way“ of doing things contrary to what Cerakote instructions require. Sincerely Bernhard

@@bernhardlist9359 It seems that you are not grasping the distinction made by Cerakote in their surface preparation for, and I quote your first comment “nice shiny surface” and a rough surface like a dirt bike motor case. I did my best to explain in my previous reply that the surface of an engine case is cast, not shiny. I have over 30 years of experience painting in the automotive industry and I am well versed in the procedures for painting and surface preparation. My technique for preparation of my substrate in this video is absolutely correct and appropriate for an engine case. In no way is my preparation a break from what you call a “requirement.” If I were painting a car panel, the surface preparation would not be the same as it would be if I were painting wood. The same parallel applies to the differences between a firearm and an engine case. What matters is the cleanliness of the surface, the spray techniques and the drying recommendations. So, to summarize, what you seem to be ignoring - even though I have already explained this - is that the recommendations of Cerakote are for the expected result from preparation of a smooth surface such as a firearm. Please feel free to ignore my tips and techniques and refer to other videos. However, my results are proven using my techniques as I have had ZERO delaminations on ANY components I have painted with Cerakote.

Glad you like them! Thanks!

Thank you! 😃

I think I replied to you earlier but my replies got removed when I "branded" the channel. Thanks so much for always being so supportive!

Cool. Ive been doing lots of cerakote since then. Did a new video on this recently too.

Hey Zeo! I polished some cases on another bike and clear cerakoted them, and WOW! They look great! I was going for a different look on this bike, but I understand why you chose the route you did. Im sure it looks great!

That is a tough call, Charles, but I lean toward, "yes." Vapor blast just looks perfect when completed. Ive never found anything that turns out better after treatment.

That’s funny! I didn’t even realize how I did kind of mimic Trump somewhat with my face gestures! Thanks for watching and subscribing too! I just posted a new video on Cerakoting a motor if you want to check that one out also.

Thanks so much Perry! I have a newer video on Cerakoting that you may find beneficial too. Thank you for watching!

@@brian.d.mobley i need to know how to convert the sand blasting machine into a vapor blast...thanks.. btw. Im from the philiplines.

@@pierrecardindepaz1312 I have seen some videos on that, but I used a service for the vapor blasting - Houston Vapor Blasting - in Texas. I have never converted a sand blaster to vapor hone machine. Im sorry I cant be more help...

Hi Fred! I doubt it. But there are mobile pressure washing services, so maybe! If you can ship your stuff to Houston Vapor Blasting, I would. They are great.

Hey Rusty! Cerakote is not super durable in general. Its hard, but not tough. However, specific to your question, the C series has greater variability in hardness ratings than the H, or catalyst dependent, Cerakote. According to Cerakote, pigments vary in hardness so, with the absence of catalyst, the pigment contributes more greatly to the hardness rating. The presence of catalyst as a medium for hardening makes H series less variable. But, as I stated in a more recent video focused specifically on the superiority of the C system for most home hobbyists, both systems are very hard and, in my experience, indistinguishable. A lot of things come down to splitting hairs and for me, this is one of those circumstances. They are both very hard and the ease of ambient cure is worth a greater variability in hardness given that the difference in hardness is negligible. Hope that clarifies! Thank you so much for watching!

Hi Chris! I think C Series is the best for most DIY applications. Its easy to spray, no heating and no mixing hardener. Im not sure what "Vaposufficient" means...!:) Thanks for watching and please consider subscribing if you havent already!

@@brian.d.mobley, Don’t know what happened but I must have deleted the message before posting. I meant to write that I have been looking at Cerakote C as well and have vapor blasted an entire BMW airhead “R80RT” engine as prep. However I talked to the local paint shop and they pointed out that vapor blasting is not creating a sufficient surface profile for the Cerakote to stick to. I have copied in a statement from the Cerakote application guide beneath. ”application guide” : A blasted profile must be applied to the substrate to remove any rust, scale or other coatings. This is required to ensure maximum adhesion. Remove any sharp edges that may create thin areas or protrude through the coating. For best results, use a dry grit material such as aluminum oxide or garnet equivalent to a 100 - 120 mesh size. Glass beads are not recommended as they are not aggressive enough to produce a sufficient blast profile. Now in you video you refer to vapor blasting as a great option, but that is a lot milder that sandblasting and I’m aware that glass bead blasting is not the same. However vapor blasting is not the same as sandblasting either! So I would love to hear how it holds up afterwards. Have you done any scratch or chipping test or similar.? BR

​@@christoffermuhlbach1699 I talk about this issue all the time and I am about to do a new Cerakote video where I spend more time on this topic. The short answer is: A vapor blasted finish will work GREAT. It is a media blasted profile that is delivered via water jet rather than air pressure. Here is what I say about this issue all the time: "manufacturers are forced to make firm declarations about how to apply their products to avoid having to answer a million questions about variables AND because it gives them an avenue to avoid responsibility for poor results by citing errors in procedures by the applicator." As an example, I too contacted cerakote about coating a dirt bike rear shock absorber spring and was advised that it a perfectly fine application (I was concerned that the coating would be too hard and would not allow for deflection of the spring under load without failing). A spring is made from VERY hard metal and it would not matter one bit if that metal were sanded, vapor blasted or sandblasted, the surface would end up with almost identical surface roughness. In the automotive paint world, spray techs call the surface preparation as having adequate "tooth" to allow media to adhere. Usually 600 grit sandpaper creates the level of tooth. So, to summarize, dont get bogged down by manufacturers recommendations on surface prep. It could affect how smooth and shiny your job appears after, but I have cerakoted polished dirtbike cases on my shifter kart and have cerakoted multiple engines and have never had a problem. I am an avid cleaner and preparer and that is what is needed more than anything to ensure good adhesion.

Hey Genysmen! It probably would. But, as for grit, Im so sorry, but I just dont know. I prefer the finish of Vapor Blasting as it looks as fresh as OEM after.

Hi Eric. Cerakote is rated to at least 1000 degrees, so its no problem regarding heat. As for cleaning, the surface texture is the same as the original part so there is no change there either. Its great stuff and I use it a lot! Thanks for watching!

Hey Luis! Cerakote makes various “series” of coatings, but they roughly break down between air cure and oven cure. There are lots of air cure colors available. So, to answer you succinctly, no. You don’t have to use an oven for all Cerakote series. Thanks for watching!

Hi SC! The PSI varies depending on the color used, but usually between 15-20 PSI. The manufacturers data sheet will tell you the correct PSI for your color which can be found on the Cerakote site.

@@davidofqwerty Respectfully, you are simply following dogma and don’t understand application theory nor that not all surfaces on which cerakote are applied must be prepared by sandblasting. Cerakote now acknowledges this. Cleanliness is far more crucial to outcomes than “blast profiles” as has been proven countless times from my over 30 years of application experience.

Hey Jared. I just used the smallest size available which is the "tester" size and sells for about $35

Hey Dave! You can just run it. But aluminum will oxidize and get dirt stains. I prefer to coat it for these reasons. Not to mention I like the look. Cerakote is very durable and won’t wash off. As long as you don’t clean your bike with a wire brush, it will last a VERY long time. I keep my bikes spotless, so I don’t leave dirt and oil on mine, but even if you do, Cerakote holds up well. And, Cerakote is a superior choice for engines for it heat dissipation qualities (it won’t insulate like Powdercoat) and its temperature resistance. Its really pretty amazing.

@@brian.d.mobley Thanks Brian! Yeah, I believe I will push him towards cerakote! I guess I typed it weird above, but there was a concern about the cerakote being semi porus and the dirt embeding in it. But I know for sure the bare aluminum will do that. This particular bike was mine for 24 years,so I am taking extra time on it. Thanks again!

@@davelambardo6464 Not to counter what you wrote, but Cerakote is not porous. It is a a paint and it will completely keep out contaminates as long as its not damaged. The surface of a case or engine is kind of rough (which may be what you are expressing in your comment). You will love the result from cerakote. And, they make clear that you can spray which will keep the dirt stains away yet still retain the look of the stock metal (if you want that look!). If you decide to do it and need help, don’t hesitate to reach out. Ill help as much as I can!

@@brian.d.mobley Perfect ! Great help Brian !

@@davelambardo6464 I've been reading up on all the Cerakote product range. Planning on doing quite a bit of restoration work using both oven bake and air dry systems. From what I read all the Cerakote finishes perform like a Teflon type surface so should be easy to clean and highly stain resistant....Good video demo,Brian👍 Edit to add: Dave,if you wanted to see just a vapour blasted finish colour then satin clear powder coating will seal the blasted aluminium from oxidation but look very close to the freshly blasted look.

Not at all. From the factory, they aren’t coated. But aluminum oxidizes and looks dull quickly unless you take good care of it. You can spray all the engine down with Boshield T9 or maybe WD40 and it will stay fairly new looking for a long time. T9 is a superior product but it’s expensive.

@@brian.d.mobley ah okay, i was worried about that. Some guy i met is charging me $100 to vapor blast my frame. Do you think that is a good deal?

@@EarthWasHere I think it’s fair. To do my entire motor is about $70. It’s much smaller to do a motor. And not as unwieldy. I think it’s about the right price.

@@brian.d.mobley Got it. Thank you. 👍

I thought I had given the artist credit. I will add that to the description. Its a good song, I think Ill use it again on the video I release this weekend. So, credit to you for reminding me how good this song is! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--K_YSjqKgvQ.html

@@brian.d.mobley thanks mate

@@officialmysteriousrider6327 Sure.. Im going to include your comment in my upcoming vid! Thanks for watching!

@@brian.d.mobley ok buddy

Im not sure. But, for the frame, I think sandblasting is probably better. Vapor on the engine and aluminum stuff.

I should have probably worn a respirator, but it was outside and very well ventilated.

His body ,his choice! Or do we do that anymore? 😆 Anyway cerakote is some perrty hard smelling stuff. Outside definitely a good choice without paint booth or somthing.

@@davelambardo6464 It is always good to wear a respirator. The smell of Cerakote is ammonia, so I’m sure it’s not good to breathe. But it wasn’t very concentrated. I don’t wear a respirator when I drive down the polluted freeway near my house even though all the cars are pumping out tons of poison gasses. Still, wearing a respirator is better practice for sure. So I can’t really argue with Wayne on that one. And I should set a good example for best practices when I’m showing others how to do these procedures.

@@brian.d.mobley 👍

In my experience, the razor routinely "snags" the aluminum and is not effective. I only file enough to create a score line in the tape so it can be easily removed. But, thank you for you insight and thank you for watching!

@@brian.d.mobley I know what you're talking about. It happens. Just see it differently and that's fine. As long as you know you're not doing any harm then it's fine lol

@@willybman3723 I try to be careful, but I make mistakes like anyone else! I never mind a good tip that may help me learn something or do a better job. So, thank you for expressing your idea on the razor blade thing.

Hey NK, I’m in Texas. USA. Thank you for watching.

@@brian.d.mobley i have small business..powder coating & vapor blasting...i like your tecnic..

@@H.K_project-015 Thanks! I’m doing a new motor this week. I don’t think I’ll make a video about it since I’ve done a few on Cerakote already. I really enjoy shooting Cerakote and the effect is just awesome.

@@brian.d.mobley if you want to use powder coating I can help teach you ..

@@H.K_project-015 thats so nice! Thanks! I have been considering doing some powder coat on my next bike project. Im going to build up a new CR85 for my wife and I plan to really trick it out!

HAHA!!! If I could count how many times I have had to provide commentary on the bloody mask…..well, its a lot! If you read the comments, I have already commented that it certainly would have been better had I worn a mask. The area was outdoors and the vapors easily dissipated. I live in a city of 4 million people with a freeway going through my backyard emitting pollutants 24 hours a day. I ride a road bike on the streets in traffic for at least 100 miles per week. And finally, thankfully I don’t spray coatings for a living so my exposure is very low. I addressed this PPE issue in a more recent video that you may enjoy. But, thank you for the kind tips on avoiding chronic obstructive pulmonary disease. Duly noted and received! Thank you for watching.

Hey Bert. Youre are not the first to notice that. I should have worn one, no doubt. I set a bad example by not wearing one. But, it was very well ventilated where I was spraying and the risk I was taking was probably akin to the same risk as spraying with a rattle can. Still, I should have been wearing one and in my most recent video on Cerakote, I am. Thank you for watching!

@@brian.d.mobley takes a man to admit a mistake and you have admitted it well. Thanks

@@bertharris9748 Thanks. And thanks for watching. I have very new video on Cerakoting that you may like if you want further info on doing Cerakote at home.