🟥 tap here to learn how to care for your brushes with only oil and no harmful solvents‼️ ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2gMDf1Bwo9o.html
Varnishing has always been one of my least favorite parts of painting, mostly because of the waiting. I just ordered my 1st bottle of Gamvar. Great tip re: cleaning the brush too.
Tip: try a spray gun ! Use only a hvlp spray gun. Adjust it to spray a fan and set the fluid volume to just wet the surface, no more then that! One coat one way then another 90 degrees from the first. Your done.
This is a very helpful video. I tell my clients how to varnish their paintings after they leave the studio, and this youtube is so helpful that I think even a client could handle it. Thank you very much. :)
Nice, clear and concise video. Thanks for this! I've varnished with Gamvar several times already, but it's been of time since I last did it. I found this a great refresher and comforting because it reinforces the technique that's worked for me. (I assume you don't hold larger paintings while varnishing 😊.)
Real Badger hair brushes are the go to when needing the highest quality of varnish application. They are pricey but will last a lifetime if taken care of.
@@withwandy I’m pretty sure that’s okay. I know some people do that to control the glossiness and achieve varying levels of a satin finish. I’d test it on small studies to ensure you like the results. I’d love to hear how it goes. :)
Let me know how it goes. I find using a small brush and as little varnish as possible works best. I use a circular scrubbing motion. I find bristle brushes work well and hold less varnish. It should take a few dips in the varnish to cover the entire painting. Less is more.
I haven’t had any issues with that. I’ve been using Gamblin for years and it always evens out the painting for me without oiling out. But there are many variables in painting so perhaps it is an issue for some people. Thanks for sharing that. Much appreciated. :)
Glad it was helpful. Since creating this video, I have found that using very little varnish with a small brush in a scrubbing circular motion creates the best results. It’s better to start with too little varnish in your brush and to add more as you go then start with too much. This will also prevent beading and other complications.
It depends on how thickly the varnish is applied. Since making this video I now apply my varnish even thinner. I use the least amount of varnish possible. I load the brush then squeeze out as much varnish as possible and apply in a circular scrubbing motion. If applied very thin, it can be touch dry in 24 hours. If it’s still tacky, then it’s possible it was applied to thick. Did that help? Also, I try to dry it standing up to limit dust accumulation. If then varnish is applied thinly, then it won’t drip or run. :)
Thanks again for the helpful video...just remembered a question: What do you think about a second coat - when would you consider one? It looks like you apply Gamvar the way I do - relatively thinly - but I sometimes find a second coat to be helpful in assuring evenness.
I apply it very thin, but I find applying a second coat gets too tacky. The solvent in the second coat will dissolve the first coat and mix it all together. For me getting it right the first time is the best bet. :) thanks for your comment. Hope you are having a great day!!
I live in Lisbon and I can’t find gamsol to remove the gamvar glossy varnish from a painting. Do you know if there’s any equivalent in order to remove it? Thank you so much and congratulations for your wonderful work!❤
Thank you, so helpful! Gloss finish seems to be a favorite even over satin for most artists, do gloss- finished oil paintings still look good hung up in a house as opposed to a gallery or something with more quality lighting? Thanks!
I think they do. :) Just do use too much. I squeeze out every last drop of varnish from my brush before application. I now apply it in a circular scrubbing motion to get a very thin layer on the painting. Works great. Use as little as possible. And reload the brush to finish varnishing if needed. Less is more when it comes to varnish. :)
Amazing art👏 Quick question. I varnished a painting, but dull spots still appeared. It did not even out the sheen. The varnish did not adhere properly. Not even the second time. Have you ever experienced something like this? Good day to you sir😀
Tell me a little bit about the varnish you used and how you applied it? Some varnishes require specific applications depending on the type of paint surface. Was it a very smooth paint surface? Was it oil paint?
@@GalleryBry Thank you for your reply :) I used winsor newton satin varnish, with a large brush, and of course used sparingly and not poured on the canvas. Exactly as you see on countless youtube videos on “how to varnish”. Yes all done in oil paint on sanded gessoed canvas. Some artists claim “oiling out” with linseed oil the entire painting will saturate the colors and thereby make it even. Also this did not work for mig. Others have suggested using Liquin. This has been a problem for me for years. 🤔😮💨
@@jonasrasmussen3340 thanks for responding with more information. I haven’t tried the Windsor and newton burners yet, but I know it’s gambling I have found that using a smaller brush and scrubbing it onto the painting in a circular motion helps get an even coating and helps it adhere better. Perhaps that would be worth a try with the Windsor and newton varnish as well. Since making this video I found that circular motions with very little varnish helps create the most even surface.
I often photograph my paintings before varnishing. Otherwise the only way to eliminate all glare is to use polarized photo lenses. You could also use satin varnish which is less glossy.
With Gamvar you can only really do one. It has a solvent in it, so the second coat will dissolve the first coat and it will get too sticky. The best way to do it is to squeeze as much varnish from the brush as possible and scrub it on in a circular motion in the thinnest layer possible. I usually have to reload the brush a few times to cover a painting but it’s better then having too much and getting a sticky mess. Was that helpful?
Probably not. Most varnish has a solvent in it to keep the resins in a liquid state. Applying a second layer will dissolve the first layer and make a sticky mess. So I would remove the Gamvar first before applying another varnish. When applying varnish, use the thinnest layer layer possible. I squeeze every drop from my brush before applying. I apply in a circular scrubbing motion. This ensures a very thin application. With varnish, less is more. Did that help? :)
How much you leave it to dry after you varnish the painting ? Does it take so much time ? I still didn't try vanishing my painting yet so I'm trying to learn as much as position before trying it 😊 thank you for the great video too
You can remove it with gamsol. Perhaps try again with a smaller brush and less varnish. There should be barely any varnish in the brush. Apply in a circular scrubbing motion. How long did you let the painting dry before varnishing ?
I typically do but it’s optional. Varnishing protects a painting and saturates colors. So if the sides aren’t important to the painting or will be covered by a float frame it’s not necessary. But it certainly doesn’t hurt if you want all parts of your painting to age uniformly. :) Good question. I’d say varnish all painted areas just to be safe. :)
If you apply an ultra thin coat it will be touch dry in a day. I usually wait a few days if I am packaging the painting just to be extra precautious. If it remains sticky then the application may be too thick. The best way to apply it is to squeeze most of the varnish from your brush and apply in a circular motion. The thinnest layer possible is all that’s needed. Was that help? :)
I varnish using this brand as well however, i noticed that after i varnished some of the initial drawing i did at the start on the canvas with a pencil started showing. I dont understand why this happened? Before varnishing it was all covered in paint and nothing was visible. Why is this happening? And how can i fix this problem? Thank you
That’s most unfortunate. There could be a number of things happening here. First, oil paint becomes increasingly transparent as it dries. So the longer it dries the more potential there is for layers to be visible. Second, before varnishing, the surface can have a matte appearance which scatters light and could make it harder to see through layers. It’s like when you stand at the edge of a lake: you can see the bottom closer to where you are standing but see reflections off the water the further out you look. When you varnish, less light is scattered and the painting appears “deeper” because there is less surface scatter, just like when you look in the lake closer to you. This is just my hypothesis. I doubt there is a chemical process between the graphite and oil. But to be certain, you could size the finished drawing with Gamblin PVA size or GAC 100 from Golden. This will seal the drawing and keep it from mixing with the oils. But it will be a slicker surface to paint on. Many oil painters like that but I can be a challenge if you aren’t accustomed to it. You could always give it a light sanding. Do you paint thick or thin? Do you use gloss or matte varnish? Also, how hard of a pencil do you use? Harder pencils will make very light lines that should be less visible. Paint also has an effect. Do you use opaque paints like cadmiums or transparent paints like phthalos? Sorry for all the questions. Lol lots of variables. :)
After removing Gamvar varnish, can it be re-varnished with another brand of varnish? If the answer is yes, how long do I have to wait between one process and another?, Thanks!.
Once Gamvar is removed with a solvent like Gamsol you can apply another varnish as soon as the painting is dry and and the solvent has evaporated. When in doubt just wait 24 hours to be extra safe.
You could but you’d need to be very careful not to get lint in the varnish. You’d need a lint free cloth but even those can shed some lint. Is there a reason you’d rather use a cloth instead of a brush?
Great question!! You don’t need an expensive brush. A synthetic or bristle brush that doesn’t shed too much will do. Depending on the size of the painting wider flatter brushes help you cover more ground. But don’t use it too big because they will hold too much varnish for small paintings and you will get too much varnish on the painting. The smallest amount possible is all that is needed. Was that helpful at all?
You can remove it with a solvent like gamsol and a brush. Brush on the gamsol, let it sit to dissolve the varnish. Brush it off. Repeat until all the varnish is gone. Did that help?
@@GalleryBry That absolutely did the trick. I brushed on Gamsol, let it sit for a minute and then whiped away with a clean cloth. Now to varnish it the proper way following your video. Thanks again!!
One should be sufficient. If you add another layer it will activate the first layer and mix together to make one thick layer. The thinnest amount possible is best. :)
Why not spray it on? One coat one way, then another coat 90 degrees from the other? This is used to get a consistently even coat coverage in the automotive painting industry. You can adjust the coat thickness way better then with a brush. You can spray the coat adjusted to just wet the surface with a sprayer. You can easily see this as you spray. No brushes to clean and no hairs to pick off. I am supprised everyone has not "borrowed" this method from the automotive industry. Use a hvlp spray gun always.
Thanks for this helpful feedback. There is spray varnish and it does create even coats. You are correct. The way I apply my varnish is in the thinnest layer possible so it is always even and consistent. I use quality brushes so I never have to worry about removing hairs. And I don’t need additional ventilation or a mask with brush application. It seems that both methods achieve the same result so I’m sure it’s just a matter of preference when painters choose one method or the other. Thanks for sharing your method. :) Maybe some people will give it a try and find that’s it’s the best option for them. :)
@@GalleryBry Spray cans do not use a fan shaped spray like a spray gun can be adjusted to. They use a circle pattern that makes application near impossible to apply even coats. A fan pattern makes all the difference in applications. The rattle cans are in my opinion good for marking out highway cuts and tagging train cars only. Try a good spray gun and you will never go back to a brush or rattle can. For example if you have a half dozen or more paintings ready to varnish, you can set them all up together and spray them all in just a couple minues. No fussing around . I have used spray guns in my cabinet shop for 40 years. Sprayed every kind of finish. With them , you can get the evenness, thickness of coat you want. I might add...Fast! It's just my experience that I was sharing here. Sometimes it's good to borrow methods from other related professions.
@@GalleryBry thank you! I’m always struggling to figure out what to paint... I used to do reduction block printing and created images in my head. Not sure that works as well with painting. I just always question what would be interesting enough that anyone would ever want it. I took lessons with someone who paints very colorful. I struggle to paint like her, but then don’t want to be a copy of her... I’m going to be in a 2 person show in October and scrambling to get stuff done. I’m always not sure what to charge... I’m trying to get some larger paintings done so they’ll have more presence in the space, but also making some small paintings (4x6 and 5x7) that can be priced $60-100 so they are more accessible for folks with less to spend. Also oil painting some magnets for $10-20. I know I like to support artists and craftsmen and if there are things in such a price range I typically buy something... it was suggested I put those in the room next to the gallery where we’ll have the reception so as to not diminish the “fine art” of the show... but then after the opening night they wouldn’t be there... what do you think?
@@libertychick3522 it sounds like you are on the right path. Regarding finding an audience and what to paint, there are seven billion people on the planet. Someone is bound to connect with what you paint. You just have to find that audience and do serious marketing. You also have to decide what is most important to you-painting what you love or what sells most easily. Most people find a balance of both. Sometimes people have to cater to the masses at first before they build a reputation and a solid brand. Once you have a solid brand you have more freedom. This is the case with most professions. It’s very smart of you to have paintings at multiple price points. It’s helpful to have large expensive work to wow people and then when people see smaller works they seem way affordable in comparison. So it sounds like you are doing well. What subjects do you like to paint?
@@GalleryBry I guess I like painting flowers best - I love the colors! I like to play with lines and borders too when block printing and tend to outline items in paintings - I think it helps colors stand out... I did some quick, colorful 5x7’s of baby farm animals recently and they were fun - it was rather freeing to work small, quick and colorful. Reminded me of warming up at the net in tennis! I appreciate your response and inputs!
@@libertychick3522 quick small paintings are exactly like warming before a tennis game. That’s a great analogy!! I usually tell my students a similar analogy: it helps to warm up in painting just as athletes warm up before games.
