Here in 2022, still needing this video! But it's adorable when he says "I'm nearly at 500 subs" but now he's at 3.4k haha! Well done bro, grow your channel and get them views! ❤️
This has been a huge help. I had been reading about having to do something with ecu to rewind the piston.i thought id do better looking for a video and found yours .thanks for sharing buddy.gonna save me some money . Thank you 🙏
Great video, thanks for taking the time to record, edit and share. I'll be replacing the rear pads on my Insignia over the Jubilee weekend and this will be a great help.
@@Thediycarchannel Thanks mate. On previous cars I've always left brake fluid reservoir cap off when winding piston back on... can that be done instead of bleeding on the insignia as I don't have a one man bleed kit?
@@Thediycarchannel Thank you again for the quick reply, appreciate it. Good to see your channel growing since this video too as you mention it had around 500 subs then 👍
Thank you this channel is going up slowly my fishing channel Cardigan bay fishing adventures is going a lot quicker. But as long as the video's help people out I'm happy
Awesome video pal just got an Insignia 1.8 on an 11 plate and it has a electronic brake so this video is extremley helpful to me as i will be doing these brakes in the coming weeks.Thanks ,greetings from Gedling in Nottingham England.
Thank you I appreciate your feedback. There nice cars cheap and very comfortable If you get stuck put a comment on here will try help you out Thanks again
thank you for this video i have mine to do at the weekend and i was worried about the touch button hand brake and getting the piston to wind back in ive got all 4 wheels to do so looks like a messy weekend for me and not the happy messy type lol
Great tutorial, cheers mate! About to change rear OEM discs to holed Zimmerman's, pads will be ebc greenstuff. On The front end, discs from OPC/VRX insignia, greenstuff pads there as well. About My car, its -11 sport tourer, 4x4 biturbo CDTI with manual gearbox, shipped it from Germany.
Thank you 👍 Happy you liked it Not sure about the discs but the pads are good that your getting Nice choice of car 😉 And I really appreciate the support thank you for the sub 👍👍👍👍
Sorry I missed this comment I didn't get notified. It depends on the pads you buy I'm sure when I bought brembo which cost a fair bit more they did have the metal plates but once I bought the cheap eBay ones and they didn't. You can reuse the plate as long as they're not damaged I gave mine a good clean with wd40 and wire wool
Great vid mate, when bleeding the brakes do you have to repeat the same process on the other side of car or is it sorted once you’ve bled one side? Cheers
Thank you. You have to bleed each side you loosen as it will pull air in that caliper. I would say 80% of people don't loosen the bleed nipple they just push this piston back slowly. But it's a lot easier to do with loosening the nipple if it will loosen and it's not seized
Best videos I've seen. I used to take out engines and do the lot in my youth. Videos like this give a great insight before doing a job. Thanks for all the info ..... very clear and very helpful, Robin
Having replaced discs and pads on numerous cars I was a bit confused as to why you opened the bleed nipple? I normally remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir. That way when winding back the caliper piston, the fluid gets pushed back into the reservoir. Very informative video tho
Your meant to release the nipple to stop it being pushed back its a hydrolic system and it can and will eventually damage or invert seals you will find your brakes get more and more spongy over time of keep doing it and on top of that it makes the job so much easier once your done it takes less than 5mins to bleed You can push them back by hand with the nipples loosened off
Thanks lee I appreciate it and that's great to here I love the positive feedback when the videos help out it's great. Thank you for your comment lee and well done too
Great video mate I've also managed to change rear discs and pads with your help. Any chance of having something about how to replace the rubber seal on the caliper as mine s ripped off but I'm anxious to do this on my drive as I dont want to change the brake fluid.
D3fs best video for rear pads and disks for this car. Gonna do mine tomorrow prob won't crack bleed nipple will maybe just take cap off reservoir and see if it retracts easily
Thank you I appreciate that. Yes you can push um back without doing bleed nipple thousands of people do. I always do bleed nipple now as long at there not seized I find it way easier. Good luck on doing your brakes if you get stuck drop a comment I will try my best to help
Really good video! Thanks. So many hints and tips! (Eg: new grub screws...) Great to see that the parking brake system doesn't cause an issue! I'm happy doing brakes discs and pads because garages, even good ones, charge silly money! Probably inconsequential but I've never opened the bleed nipple for the piston wind back - for me, with only the cap off the fluid is only going one way. (Probably with the cap on it only comes out through the nipple!) I've just seen comments below regarding seals... I'm old: I've bought and used seal kits for master and slave cylinder kits for many vehicles without problems - try to have an OEM kit available! (Should I clean the hub - between the studs and maybe add some copper grease - before offering up the new disc? And... is there any value in cleaning, wire-brushing and painting brackets and calipers? I just found this - but do not want to detract from your work -delete if that's what works for you!
Thank you Gerard. You dont have to do bleed nipples but it makes it a lot easier and no chance of inverting seals. Yes give it all a clean up it won't hurt I add copper grease my self but you don't have to. Painting calipers is personal preference I haven't done it but you can I do clean them up with a wire brush tho Hope this helps thanks Dave
They can be fiddly With the disc screws u need to put the Allen or torxs in which ever it is and hit it hard a 4-5 times with a hammer and they come out ok Unless they where shredded by Somone else If there shredded drill them out
Thanks mackem. I do have a video to edit changing suspension arms on the BMW. I really don't get any car work no more I struggle for time with working nights
@The DIY Car Channel np got em done today. All was good apart from a seized un slider bolt. Managed to get out with hammer n chisel then greased it up. All completed. Iwe didnt bleed brakes tho.
Nice work well done. Most don't bleed the brakes. I just have OCD lol. You can use like 1000 grit sand paper and wd40 to clean sliders if needed they come up like new
If your doing front brakes yes you can but the rears need to wind in there is like a screw that the piston work on so applying direct pressure from a g clamp on the rears would only damage it
I know this is old and maybe you'll not see this but, do you really need to bleed the brakes, can you not just leave the pipe on and wind the piston back in? I know it'll be harder but I'm doing this on my own, I've done the front but not the back before
Nice video really good iv never changed pads and lossened the bleed nipple tho iv just taken the top of the fluid rez does loosening the nipple make it easier??
Yes loads easier and it stops the pressure In the master cylinder it can get damaged without releasing the nipples but people do it without loosening the bleed nipple I used to
Hi and thanks for making this video it makes me confident to have a go at changing front and rear discs plus pads. One question though say if you change front and rear pads then do you bleed each one of them individually for e.g change front right and bleed and move to the next one or do all together? Hope that make sense and sorry if it sounds silly 😃
Yes that's what I do. I release the nipple with a bit of pipe on and push the pistons back makes it so easy. If it's no easy there is probably an issue with the caliper. Once it's all refitted. Give it a bleed make sure there's no air and make sure the brake fluid reservoir is kept topped up. Do this for each caliper.
Most people undo the cap but in my opinion you shouldn't force fluid back in to reservoir it can invert and damage seals Also it makes pushing the pistons back easy you can push the pistons back in by hand no problem on the front brakes
@@mohammadashraf4976 it takes quite a bit of force Easier to release nipple Then re bleed Definitely no damage caused And bleeding it really easy it shown in the video
Most garages do not release the bleed nipple when doing a pad replacement and this results in seized calipers as the brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture) .
Amazing video man you just killed my anxiety in 2 days I will be doing it myself but what about the copper grease on the piston front I've read to no put anything there o.o idk I watched the professional stuff from ATE what does it do and won't it get inside it ?
No worries dawid you don't have to grease if you don't want to its meant to stop brake squeak. Tbh I don't use grease no more my self I don't see the point. I used to tho with no issues
I bought it cause I saw you doing it but yeah was kind of sceptical about it :) one last question when you put the piston back to it's place were you rotating clockwise both sides or left side differs from right on the back brakes :)
No there isn't but same again you don't have to release the nipple it's just good practice most garages wouldn't bother and force piston back. With my BMW I have now I don't release the nipple but I push the piston back slowly with the brake fluid cap off
Hi, I just came across this video and noticed you haven't used a computer to put handbrake into service mode. Isn't it necessary. Only asking because iv been told thats the process and i need mine doing
I have heard about “service mode”when doing rear pads with electric handbrake hold down button for 15 seconds until service is displayed on dash is this the case?
My insignia VX line 2010 model, I noticed it's not vented brake discs but solid. I'm wondering whether vented brake discs can be fitted? Would the brake caliper fit over the vented ones?
When I depress the callipers piston is it okay just too take the brake reservoir lid off too realess the pressure in line Same thing isn’t it. Just your method makes it a bit easier? Thanks and great vid 👍
No that's not the same. Taking the Cap off releases pressure so the fluid will flow back which it shouldn't really. Releasing the bleed nipple stops it flowing back
@@Thediycarchannel yeh I see but in principle cap off the fluid can flow back making piston easier too depress.just for say changing old too new pads. Brake fluid change aside🤔
Yes most do it that way I used to. But spoke to a good mechanic he said don't, it can invert your seals. He said doing it over and over again in time you will end up with spongy brakes. So i got in to habbit of doing the bleep nipple
No worries. If your nervous about bleeding the brakes do it with out just push them back slowly. My advice is not to but you can I did it that way for years. And garages still do it that way to save time
I used an impact screw driver you get them on ebay cheap. Put it in and give it a good smack before you attempt to undo it and it will. Come out find. Alternatively you can just put the torque or Allen in and hit it a few times and it should come out easily
@@Thediycarchannel was just wondering if you knew as there is a way to put it in service mode without any computers. And as all garages quote 150 to 200 for such a easy job I am doing it myself was just the issue with the electrical handbrake.
There's no issue. Press your break pedal and release the hand brake by pressing the button down once your brake job is complete pull the button up job done
The guide pins to the brake pad holder... Can copper grease be applied and be ok if I didn't have any normal grease with me at the time of the disc and pad change ?
@@Thediycarchannel reviews online are so damming. Even saying the previous 1.9tdi was awful fiat engine. My experience in a 200 pound Saab covering 30k is it was very good and reliable.
Awesome video mate I'm gonna change my pads and discs all round...I love having a go but always scared I'll mess it up lol....just looking on Ebay and a set of pads and 4 discs are £113 that seems cheap...I was quoted £230 for back pads and discs and £210 for front 🤦♂️😫
Sorry for the delayed reply Hopefully the video will help you out if you get stuck drop a comment on here Try get mintex if you can I found they last the best on the insignias I tried all sorts Thank you for you input too I appreciate it
Cheers mate someone told me u need to plug into computer to take handbrake off as it’s electric but is that bull as u didn’t use one did u they said if u don’t use computer u can mess up ball bearings in the piston?? I’m fully amateur but u made it look easy
No that's not true Press brake pedal and press handbrake button down The rear calipers rewind in there is a tool kit for it I'm sure there is a link in the discription for it I also released bleed nipples to release the pressure makes job easier and then bleed it after If bleed nipples look rusty or seem tight leave them because they will snap just take cap of brake fluid reservoir and push the pistons back slowly
With the Electric Handbrake,I heard that a computer is required to re calibrate the hand brake is that the case,or is it ok to do it with out computer?with our damaging anything
I haven't no but if it's sticking could be grubby sliders or the caliper piston is at fault the caliper can be rebuilt or you can get a new one there not mega money
Great video man! Is it only the rear pistons that need to be twisted to compress them? Or do the front ones just push in? Thanks and keep up the good work 😁
I loosen the bleed nipple to push the piston back If you don't it can damage the seals i.e invert them Some say u don't have to but all garages I spoke with say yes release nipple and push pistons back And it don't take 5mins to bleed
Don’t put copper grease on the calliper bolts use lock tight , only if you want to run the risk of them coming undone, that goes for the sliding bolts as well, and as for the pads the reason they are hard to get into the callipers is the factory puts to much paint on pads when they spray them , use some course sandpaper to take the paint off the edge wear they fit into the calliper , if you don’t they will stick after a while and the pads will bind on the discs , but great video mate just some advice and no need to undo the brake nipple just undo the cap on the break fluid reservoir
I have done it this way for over 10 yrs and never had any issues If you force the fluid back through the system it can invert the seals everyone thinks it's ok to push then back under pressure In the end you end up with spongy brakes I know because I have done it Also it makes pushing pistons back in really easy and it only takes 5 mins to bleed after its done But this is my way of doing it I'm not saying it's the right way or the wrong but it works for me and never had any problems everyone does things a bit different So I Appreciate your comment Thank you
It honestly makes it so much easier 90% of the time you can push them back in with your two thumbs few pumps on he pedal with a helping had off the wife or your kids or a mate and job done Thank you for your comment really appreciate it
That's absolutely perfect thank you for your update can't beat a success story I didn't think of the one way value idea that's a good idea thank you And well done Phil saved your self a good chunk
Done that already it's not that bad to do I actually sent my engine locking tool kit to a subscriber about a year ago It's a pretty easy job to do to be fair
It's. Not bad just have to hand crank the engine to make sure it all lines up if it don't redo belt till it lines up and your 💯 sure before you turn that key
I loosen it shouldn't make a difference to bleeding but you need to keep checking and keep it topped up don't let it run dry would be a knightmare to bleed then with a pump
I did it yesterday and its not LEFT it is RIGHT both sides, so thats not why you get differnt tools in box the box is a universal kit some other cars may be differnt ways.
As far as I know the rear is around 100nm but then it has to be turned around 60 degrees after that but please confirm it The front is 150nm and a bit further for the degrees but can't remember the exact number But I personally don't torque them I do them up tight with my breaker bar and never had issues I don't stand on the bar to tighten it but do it just as tight as my strength goes without giving my self an aneurysm lol
@@Thediycarchannel Nice, I went with a British brand called Kielder for my Mechanics tools. (They are made by and for mechanics) Market leading power to size. Their impact driver is big though! but it does have 200nm of torque. Impact wrench is perfect incredible! Everything they sell is brushless but the problem is they only make mechanics kit. Now I need other tools for carpentry ect I have to choose another brand. I have chosen Milwaukee just because they have a large brushless range "Fuel" I think Makita are top notch though, arguably the best impact driver out the box as well as being many carpenters favourite. they just have less brushless kit and less kit available but they do have something else Milwaukee doesn't have: 2 x 18v to make a 36v battery for tools that need it. that is cool.
I really can't complain with Makita I'm a carpenter by trade use them day in day out never had an issue I do look after my tools but they do have a hard life lol the Makita 1/2 impact gun is small but has nut busting torque of 400nm I'm sure it was stated and it truly works it's got hub nuts off and all sorts for me well I'm rebuilding a Subaru as you may see it's all on my channel the Makita stripped the lot of it made it such an easy job
No need to reset the handbrake as it'll auto adjust. It's like any car really, block off the two from wheels, press the handbrake button twice and it'll release it. I think there is a 'service mode' for the handbrake, this is where you hold down the button for 5-10 seconds. Once the disc and pad change has been completed pull up the button twice.
No it's an Allen key but can't remember the size now To remove it Put the Allen key in your better with socket Allen keys once the Allen key is in give it a few hard hits with a hammer helps to loosen it other wise you will struggle to get it out 90% if the time
@@Thediycarchannel after you done breaks can you press handbreak botten or do i of to press foot break first .than press handbreak botten..? Thankyou mate
@@Thediycarchannel thankyou very much some people said you need computer to set breaks in electric hand break in vauxhall insignia 2.0l 2012 plate anyway thankyou mate
I didn't but if vauxhall have it I think that's the way they do it I did my brakes loads and never did anything special just put handbrake on and drove normally after
You've got some great videos but you really need to stop using copper grease everywhere. If you copper grease threads then torque to spec you have a reduced K factor so the clamping force has been increased along with the risk of stripping the threads. Copper grease is essentially bentone grease with added powdered copper, but the bentone grease will degrade rubber components such as seals. In the case of any aluminium parts (I know there aren't any in this video) the copper has a higher hardness value and will act as an abrasive against aluminium.
You absolutely 100% DO NOT have to unscrew the bleed nipple unless you are going to re-bleed the system, you only need to undo the reservoir cap then slowly wind back the caliper, it does not damage the seals as it is not under enough pressure when only winding back the pistons slowly.
I have never said in any video you HAVE TO. It's recommended and yes it can and over time does damage the seals the system is hydrolic it's meant to work one way. Fluid is not meant to be forced back through the system. Plus when you release the nipple you can push the pistons back by hand no tools needed so make the job very easy if you have confidence to bleed it. If someone chooses not to undo nipple then that's OK it's there choice I don't tell anyone what they have to do only showing how to do brakes the way I do it I have never said its the only way.
@@Thediycarchannel you have no clue what you're talking about, what do you think happens when you remove your foot from the pedal after harsh braking, the pressure is released back through the system othetwise the brake pistons would't return to a resting position, again, if the calipers are wound back at a reasonably slow pace, it does no damage to the seals, even over time, another diy home mechanic that thinks he's qualified, go buy youself a hammer and learn how to use it on nails before trying to 'educate' others.
@yammydodger1988 I do So when I let my foot of the brake the reservoir unscrews it self like you said you have to so the pressure it released 😂 No it don't And it's pressure being released when you lift your foot its not being forced back to the reservoir like it is when you do a brake job. And at no point like you have I said there's only one way to do it but you seem to think so. Maybe you should go and spend thousands on filming equipment and make videos, then deal with idiots like I have to 😉😉. Im just here to show how brakes can be done. None of my videos say this is the only way do it. So a reply to you You absolutely 100% CAN release the bleed nipples if you want to but if you don't want to then don't. Look forward to seeing your videos as you are obviously an expert
