For people new to opening any kind of equipment, perhaps a note in the tools section about using a plain screwdriver instead of a combination type of screwdriver for opening the Vectrex case. As the combination screwdrivers are too wide to fit the screw well properly and reach the screw. This can lead a false sense of screw head engagement since the combination screwdriver shaft ends up binding against the screw well wall. Also an assumption the screw threads might be stripped since screw driver bit never engages with the screw head. Also a note on screwdriver length required in order to reach the screws in the deep wells.
Super good and probably the most thorough guide out there! I just recently fixed a chip issue and would love to try some of this to get my vectrex calibrated to perfection, though yeah working on it while having the CRT live is a little too spooky for me, at least now.
Fair point. That bit was rather over-acted for the sake of this video demo. I also had an extra set of WIMA film capacitors on hand to replace if needed, although in the end it was actually still fine (a little reinforced solder at the leads to make it more stable). I've found that polystyrene capacitors generally tend to feel more "loose" compared to more modern style capacitors even when they are well affixed.
I have a written companion to it on my website here: mattpilz.com/vectrex-console-complete-screen-calibration-guide/ - But I guess there's always yt-dlp to grab YT videos if you want :)
You'll find that either doing the combo coaxial + debuzz circuit from Console5, or the buzz-off kit on its own, are very comparable. For most Vectrex runs the buzz-off kit is least destructive and usually doesn't require cutting traces or rerouting resistors/capacitors. The mods explained on Console5 require destructive changes to the board. In my case I tried the Buzz-Off in the earliest run Vectrex and there were many additional changes needed including cutting traces. When I had first done a coaxial + circuit removal there was really no audible noise at all, with the buzz-off it's maybe 5% noise if you listen very closely but in real uses it sounds flawless. I'd recommend buzz-off but do a little research to see how complex it'll be on your Vectrex (e.g., most should have the AY sound chip socketed, but mine did not and that's an indicator of more complicated times ahead...)
i removed alot of buzz by replacing the electrolitic caps under the power amplifiers heatsink with film caps. Imo it was never a good choice to place elco's under that heatsink, wich can get pretty hot after some playing. i replaced them with 680nano mkt caps and the buzzing is very faint now. Why they placed elco's, wich have fluid in them, near a heatsource is puzzling to me. The value is only 470 nano so film caps in that range are still small enough to fit under the heatsink. Film caps are less leaky both physical and electrical. So this is a good upgrade imo, both for performance and reliability. I choose a slightly higher value of 680nano since the parts list in the manual showed they can be a bit more. I still see ripple in the power supply even after recapping power lines and integrator. The parts list shows the elco's can be 80% more. Maybe higher values will make the screen flikker less. Also the power diodes can be suspect. I'm going to replace the power diodes too. See if it makes any difference. Sometimes the flikker is just to much for me. I like the vectrex but the flikker can be sickening at times. I read on a forum that placing the power transformer away from the vectrex will cure it. Others suggested building a swith mode power supply for it. It has something to do with your AC line frequency. The vectrex has a standard refresh rate of 50 hz. If your ac line does not match it, you get flikker according to what i read. Will do these experiments when i have the time. There must be a way to reduce that flikker....
I would only use DeOxit D5 and F5 for internal controller components. If the joystick itself seems problematic it may need a new replacement spring, but otherwise shouldn't need any manual greasing.
You can also use joystick parts salvaged from a radio shack coco joystick which is much cheaper. The shaft is longer so that requires some mods that includes cutting and adding some thread with a cutting die
Do you still get sound and controller response? Can you see any image at all? The brightness control is a 250K variable resistor (R509). It can be difficult to pinpoint the culprit without tracing the measurements with an oscilloscope, but several capacitors on the power board (C507 and C508) feed directly adjacent to it.
Hi Matt Pilz, I'm trying to use your instructions to downgrade the firmware for Epson printers. But I don't see anything for my Expressoin Home XP-3150, could you please help me with that?
That's an international model and so even if you can enter firmware mode (which may be a different key combination), finding older firmware to downgrade might be more difficult. You can search MA01JA firmware, there is one utility that costs $35 that may allow patching the firmware to one that disables the chip sensor, but I do not have personal experience with working on that set or that utility.
I'm hoping that someone sees this and can help. I have a vectrex that i had to replace sy6522 and fix up the xyz wiring as the pieces inside the connector broke. this issue i am having is everything works except the words "entertaining new ideas" is small and upside down. any idea what could be going on? thank you
