I have a small glass bottle of 'oakmoss oil' that I bought in a head (hippie) shop probably in the early 1970s. It may well be the real thing, oakmoss, before it was banned. The oil is long gone but the bottle! It still smells glorious - a deep dark forest with bands of sunlight peeking through and hitting the forest floor, warming the earth.
This channel is slowly but surely becoming my favourite go-to material for perfumery content. Keep it up, cause with this quality, order, structure, and discipline, it will only become bigger and better. Great format btw.
Indeed a versatile and wonderful material, I admit I often "forget" about it, but does wonders, specially giving that sweet powdery effect that I actually love. I also find it helps to smooth things up a bit. I will try doing a blend of labdanum and veramoss to see the effect, thank you for the tip and video :)
Thank you for this! I am not a perfumer, just a perfume lover and I have loved chypre's my whole life but became allergic to oakmoss about 10 years ago. My reactions were so uncomfortable that I have been reluctant to try anything that mentions moss of any kind in perfumes, just in case. Learning about this I think now I can do small experiments with modern chypre's to see if I have skin issues with them. I would love to be able to wear something with this mossy accord again.
Good luck with your experiments, I’m sure you’ll be able to make something you like. You could combine it with pine or cypress absolute to get even closer to the natural oak moss.
Thank you! Yes for me its the most longlasting Ingredient its so long lasting for days even on skin and after bath. Amazing. I think if I put in every batch what I made some drops in side for fixing all stuff together more. Alot of my perfumes what i made are not longer lasting than 2 hrs even with strong bases like labdanum and javanol. Its so demotivating
Fun fact: when I first bought evernil I was kinda disappointed that it doesn't smell like real moss, and literally all my friends agreed that it doesn't. But we all agreed that it smells like realistic hay (unlike cumarine, which smells like sweet perfumery type of hey) and also a little bit like grapefruit, which is the thing that Sam described as fuzzy. I feel like this description gives you better understanding of what you should expect from evernyl
Bought some veramoss and compared it with oakmoss EO. It's pretty different! I'm not sure how significant veramoss is compared to the other components of oakmoss EO.
Greetings Sam. Hope you're well: Evernyl comes from the botanical or scientific name of oakmoss, which is Evernia Prunastri. There is also used more lately the tree moss, belonging to the subspecies Evernia Furfuracea. It is an ingredient which lately has been used more likely for its fixative capabilities but the men's perfumery from the 1970's and 80's used oakmoss very heavily on its construction. I can name a dozen fragrances that contain a ridiculous amount of it. Paco Rabanne Pour Homme, Polo Green, Drakkar Noir, Givenchy Gentleman, Chanel Antaeus, Ted Lapidus Pour Homme from 1978, Lacoste Original, Oscar De La Renta Pour Lui, Gucci Pour Homme from the 70's, Enrico Coveri Pour Homme, and such.
Another excellent segment,, Sam. Just ordered some from Perfumer's Apprentice and I'm looking forward to playing with it. Keep these coming! I'm learning an awful lot from you. Cheers!
Sam your channel is just phenomenal. And very very informative well put over, i got the labdanum you sell and it is brilliant, as you said about otgers having off notes really not till you get great product do you notice it as much.
Thank you for your video, I highly appreciate it. Could you please share with us the methods that you use for testing your fragrance before you launch it?
@@sammacer Thank you for your response. I do test on my skin and apparel, because fragrance usually preforms differently on different surfaces. Also I ask my friends to wear them while they are around to see how they really preform, because in many cases I can’t smell it on my skin after 15 minutes meanwhile people say that they can smell me from 10 meters. And finally I leave a blotter dipped in my fragrance in a separate room and visit that room after 10-20 minutes. If you have some more specific suggestions like this I would highly appreciate it.
Interestingly I cannot smell Methyl Atrarate almost at all - I keep a blotter in my room and smell it almost every day, and after two months I can get a few gentle sniffs at a time and then its gone - which is still a huge progress since at the beginning I couldn't smell anything and wondered if the supplier sold me some scammy material. In compositions, nothing, though I guess I get the fixative effect at least.
It is subtle! You may be predisposed to perceiving it less strongly too. I think it’s effect in blends is often more noticeable than alone so try that too!
Yes and no, i believe mr. Lee uses evernyl (givaudans equilvelent to veramoss) and a natural/synthetic oakmoss blend in a personal oakmoss accord in hacivat.
I assume It's been used in tons of men's deodorants and shower gels, and in huge amounts. Because my first impression was "this smells like a gym locker room".
Hey sam, Quick question. Idk if youve ever smelled eight & bob egypt or not but theres a generic deep sweet powdery note in the base. I pick it up in alot of perfumes, any idea what it could be??
