The best video Ive seen on this subject. Really authoritative and packed with information. I really appreciate that there weren't any 'super excited' shrieks or flashing teeth, just loads of facts. It was like listening to a university lecture on the subject. Thank you for this, Bev. The question about storing worm casting was very enlightening, no one else has mentioned that they should be used as quickly as possible.
Thank you Evelyn! It was a honor to be able to create this video, and it is wonderful to see that it is still reaching out, educating, and helping others interested in learning more about Vermicomposting. I wish you much success with your future Vermicomposting adventures! : )
I have no experience using vermi-compost in farming applications on crop fields. Worm castings and vermi-compost is the more expensive compost to buy per bag. The price per ton could be off the scale of affordability, especially right now. So unless you are planning to build your own large scale vermi-composting facility, farm applications may not be possible. That said, vermi-compost is not economical on field crops like cereals. It is better used on more valuable plants like ornamentals, vggies, and fruit crops.
Thank you, I learned a lot. I'm wishing you had taught me how to pronounce the reproductive bulge in the middle of their body and the worm tea. How about storing the bin in a cold winter? What do worms do in the cold/heat? Is there a system I can use to move those worms along to in-ground bins or above ground (plastic) bins? How long do worms live?
The tea we make from worm casting is called worm tea. If you are referring to the liquid that drains from the bottom of a worm bin, that is called worm leachate or worm seepage. Leachate is pronounced... leach·ate /ˈlēCHāt/
Many types of vermicomposting bins can actually be kept inside and maintained easily there. It is important to understand that composting worms, like red wigglers, do not tolerate cold, freezing temperatures or high temperatures above 85-90F. Under the right conditions, red wigglers and other similar composting worms can live 3-5 years in a bin. Most generally, some will die, for one reason or another, after 1-2 years. Keep in mind that as long as the bin is reasonably healthy, loosing a few worms along is normal, and are consumed like any other organic waste by the rest of the worms in the bin. Monitor the temperature in the location that you keep your bin inside and most it, as or if needed, to a better suited temperature area in your home. As for maintain bins outside in the winter, winter vermicomposting is doable, just as long as you know how to give extra care for your red wigglers needs. During the winter, your red wigglers will start feeling the cold temperature as soon as the worm bin starts to absorb the wintry weather. The temperature is usually felt by the worms as soon as it goes below 57 degrees Fahrenheit. So, it’s better to find a place for where you can keep them real warm. Of course, you wouldn’t want to have an inactive worm bin at these times; and start losing all those organic fertilizers that you can make good use of for your garden. Good advice would be to keep a compost thermometer around, so that you’d be able to keep good track of the rise and fall of temperatures.
Thank you for the webinar. I learned so much! I have a few questions : 1. Is it okay if the bin is transparent-clear? So I can see from the sides when it’s time to harvest. And then I loosely cover the container with a 6mil black plastic bag. 2. How much space between the 3/32” inch holes? 3. After making the 3/32” inch holes, Could I line the sides of the bin and top with mosquito netting? 4. For ventilation, could I install an intake & an exhaust computer-sized fans to the top of the bin? 5. How many layers of bedding & grit? 6. How deep should the bedding-grit layers be? 7. If my people are vegans, Can we dispose of human feces within the compost? 8. Will it hurt them via “transplant shock” if I dumped over the old bin on to a big tarp, picked them out, and placed them into a new, freshly bedded&layered bin? 9. Should I be concerned with the acidic volume found in salad dressings? 10. Are onions, turnips, and ginger okay to dispose of in the bin? Thank so much for your time and patience.
Question 1… Using a transparent container would be fine if you keep your worm bin indoors. But keep in mind, you should be checking on your worms every 2-3 days, if not more. The worms in an indoor worm bin becomes like tiny pets. Don’t just set them and forget them. As you go into the bin to check on your worms, you will observe the change that takes place as bedding is consumed and replaced with vermicompost, worm poop. You can remove small amounts of vermicompost when you begin to see 2”-3” develop under the bedding. When you take some out, replace it in the bin with more bedding material. As for black plastic as the covering for the bin… if it were my bin, I would use a good plastic storage container with a lid that is secure when in place. I would also drill ventilation holes in the lid.
Question 2 … The 3/32” holes are for ventilation. Keep in mind these are tiny holes, that will not only let air in, but keep your worms from crawling out. I will usually space those holes 2”- 3” apart, drilling them on all sides and in the lid. Its a good idea to clear the holes on the sides, as needed, to make sure they aren’t clogged up. A toothpick work well for this.
Question 3… I don’t know why you would want to line your bin with mosquito netting. The netting can clog/cake up with vermicompost and reduce air flow. If you are trying to prevent your worms from crawling out, if worms are trying to crawl out, there is something definitely wrong in your worm bin. It is better to be aware, see them crawling, then to trap them inside in conditions they don’t like or is killing them. Keep in mind that it is normal to see other types of decomposer in your worm bin.
Question 4… I have no idea how ventilation is maintained in larger capacity or commercial vermicomposting. But I would not add any kind of ventilation fan to my worm bins. Moisture content of 75% - 85% should be maintained in the bedding. This is basically the same amount of moisture needed in regular composting.
Question 5… The amount of bedding you use in your worm bin depends on how many worms you have and how big the container is. The denser the bedding material, the heavier it is and the fewer air pockets. I always used shredded, moistened newspapers as most of my bedding and added smaller amounts of shredded corrugated cardboard, paper egg cartons, etc.. As for grid, because some grit material can be very heavy, never make grit more than 5% of your bedding. When starting a new worm bin, I would sprinkle on a thin layer of grit in between layers of moistened bedding. I would also lightly sprinkle on grit to a feeding.
Maintaining the right conditions in a worm bin involves high levels of humidity. With the addition of adding food waste that will many times raise moisture content north of 85%. This is a perfect environment for many other decomposers that you might find in your bin, including all kinds of mites. It’s going to be hard NOT to encounter them from time to time. They are effective decomposers, so if you’re an optimistic vermicomposter, you might even see them as a complement to your worms. But to the extent that you view them negatively, you shouldn’t seek to eradicate them because you don’t want mites. You should ultimately seek to adjust the conditions that they found so attractive in the first place. Make sure you have adequate drainage, add dry bedding to help regulate moisture, and consider the age of your little thundering herd red wigglers as increased dead organic matter throughout the bedding will attract more mites.
This was okay but alot of not so great stuff as well. Like the leachate, using leachate which is an anaerobic zone is inviting negative pathogens to attack your plant.
I did say leachate could be used, but I never said it was great to use leachate. No, it is not recommended. It is definitely not a replacement for worm tea made from worm castings. But if someone is bound and determined to use it, even with the risk of potentially harmful pathogens there are a few ways you can use worm bin leachate to benefit your plants. Never use foul smelling worm leachate. This can be a sign of contamination. Discard any nasty smelling worm leachate in the trash or down the drain. If possible, add some oxygen. Aerate your worm leachate with a bubbler from a fish tank. This will make it more usable, if thats your intention. Limit your use of worm leachate to only on non-edible plants like flowers, trees, and bushes. Your plants will still benefit from the worm leachate, but you won’t have the risk of eventually eating any harmful pathogens. Dilute your worm bin leachate with water. A suggested ratio: one part worm leachate to two parts water. Pour your worm composting leachate on your hot compost pile. If you manage your compost pile correctly it will heat up enough to kill off any harmful bacteria. One more thing… Too much worm bin leachate is a sign that your worm bin conditions are definitely out of balance. Even if your bin is set-up with a drain, you should not have to drain the leachate every day. Adjust the environment in your bin by adding more dry bedding and feeding less food scraps. If your bin has no drain, adding more dry bedding and reduce the amounts of high moisture feedings would be your first option. However, in some instances, it is best to transfer your worms to another bin with fresh bedding with the right amount of moisture.
@@munchkin5674 again some things in your text are true, like not being terrible if you use it for flowers or something (still a decent chance of killing them) considering it does contain nutrients. But to aerate after it's gone anaerobic like that is going to cause more pathogens to build and isn't good information.
@@alarmedllama9270 Its up to the person using it, how old or concentrated the leachate is and where it is used. Just like with whatever you are pursuing, the best approach or plan is to thoroughly research for yourself to be aware of potential uses and issues to help you choose what works best for your situation. Thank you for watching and your feedback / comments! All my best to your future vermicomposting endeavors! 👍🏻
@@alarmedllama9270 What is your suggestion to how to dispose of the leachate organically? Isn´t it rather the misconception of the vermicomposting vessels´ design?
@@isagibbon3140 my suggestion would be to work with your bin until you find a way to keep leachate from happening. As you feed your bin it adds alot of moisture from the high nitrogen foods, add high carbon bedding with each feeding will mostly take care of that issue. Adding additional side ventilation, lifting the box slightly so air can pass freely underneath.
