That's good advice about checking everything, when I got started in the trade ,I'd fix the first thing I found and leave I had a lot of call backs for not doing a thorough job back then.New guys take note lol ,Awesome video Dave
Love your videos, man. Appreciate you filming and giving tips. I will be giving a pump down test before splitting now. The Fasco D1127 is a kick ass motor also. Keep up the great work!
Another enjoyable vid Dave! Few years back had a beer cellar with a really dirty condenser, washed it out and watched it start bringing the temperature down. Didn't hang about as last time i worked there the guy went through his cctv foootage and said i wasn't working quick enough so he took money off the bill! Anyway, he phones later as temperature gone back up, checked it and found the valves gone in the compressor..... If you get a call from Bernard, tell him you're too busy!
Those are the worst customers. I had one similar went out one day replaced a t stat on a cooler came out the next day for water leak at his soda machine I turned of the water to it and had them call Coca-Cola, no charge on the second day mind you. Guy said I was to fast on 1 at day and only wanted to pay half of my minimum. People are nuts out there.
Great job. Aint no dirty coil going to get by You!I was cleaning a coil the other day, one of the micro channels and I'll have to say it really went well. Using only water, You would have been proud.
Your the man Dave! Good vid with some good comments below. Very thorough. I got caught with a star set screw just last Friday and I hadn't came across one in such a long time that I didn't have the tool on me. It was for some shaft bearings that I was changing out so I just cut them off. LOL😎
+Nor-Cal Refrigeration & H.V.A.C IMG_7235.jpeg Don't know if the image went through but this is what I have. I am sure the sell T-handle ones at Home Depot or Sears. I hate running across metric compressors or star stuff because I don't always have it in my tool bag.😎
Accessing the bolts to remove the condenser fan motor can be very challenging. I find it easier to remove the fan shroud and motor together, (I believe there are 3 - 1/4” screws on each side). With the shroud removed it’s simple to access the motor mounting bolts. Cheers happy new year from CANADA ✌🏻
Not only this is an awesome video, the quality is great, what do you use to film this? what quality 1080p? Keep up the filming, appreciate it. I'm just getting into the HVAC trade. Thank you!
hey I just have a question about commercial refrigerator I buy a. Beverage. air UCR27 and the fan it keep running all the time it's the normal or it is something wrong please let me know thank you
7:39 - What would cause the compressor to jump back on and off during pumpdown and shut off on low pressure? My unit does not have a delay-on-make timer installed.
Oh great video I like the red bracelet it prity, I'm still scared to go to Cozumel or Cancun because I feel uneasy about the drug war and covid making people hungry for money I'm in Yellowstone and Cody wy It vary nice I thing you and your motorcycle would be vary happy hear lol😆
when you pumped down i saw the low side went into 5 inches of vacuum...should keep it above 0 psi...i did see the lpc cut out around 2 psi but it pulled into a vacuum.
I am not sure what he did after he changed out the fan. Was that some kind of connection on the filter he was ratcheting down ? that made the compressor turn off ? What was the glass thing he looked at ? It kind of looked like the glass thing to check the oil in a pressure washer. What is it's purpose ?
Instead of a thermostat this system is controlled by system pressures. The compressor is turned on and off by a pressure switch. At X low pressure = X low temperature and the box is cold enough, it shuts down the compressor. Temperature rises after time, customer going in and out of freezer, leaky door gaskets, adding warm product etc.. the pressure rises and the switch tells the compressor to start running again. He was closing a valve that stopped the flow of refrigerant. The system quickly drops down in pressure and the low pressure switch turns the compressor off. This was done to both check to see what pressure the adjustable switch is disconnecting the electricity to the compressor and to check to see condition of the compressor valves. The sight glass is a little window into the liquid line. Liquid line comes from the condenser and leads to the metering device. If all is well with the system and it is properly charged, a few minutes after restart looking into this window it should look clear and nothing but a solid column of liquid refrigerant is passing. If there are bubbles it is a possible indication that either the condenser is not rejecting enough heat to turn the hot vapor refrigerant from the compressor into liquid, or that there is not enough refrigerant in the system
Thanks for writing back. I got a lot to learn if I want to work on these things. One thing does seem to hold true. The more complicated something is to work on the more tools you need. Several years back I called a repairman out. He said one thing I needed to do was to clean the coils on the condenser. He said to turn the power off. And take a water hose and was it out. And that sounded right. But then he said I had to let it sit for 24 hrs before I turned the unit back on. Because it needed to dry out. Which sounded strange since this things sits outside. And that is the way I have been doing it. Yet when I watch the video's no one tells the customers to wait 24 hrs. In fact once they get them cleaned out and put back together. The AC is turned back on and running before the repair man leaves.
if you think that 7/16" bolt is fun,, try working on a reefer lmao. also, just carry torx bits, they even work for the hex heads (allen key) if not tight, or buy impact torx and you'll be set.
Im in Southern California & if u have the motor on the truck. It's a 2-3 hour job depending location etc. + motor cost. Fairly straight foreword job. Usually. Replace motor & clean condenser. Maybe clean the Evap. Too if necessary. Not usuAlly on freezers , but yes on walk-in coolers. $500-$600 to do this repair.
"Pump Down" That's on the A-list of HVAC slang... but it's one of those things never really made clear to beginners. I know you're in the field with this, and a full explanation wouldn't fit on the time clock. But "pump down" isn't something a beginner should fake. Any chance you could add some caption paragraphs on what's going on when it comes to Pump Down?
I really appreciate your expertise…, but the “suggestive”, let us cool your hot box”. Is OVER the top, not professional, that a person expects from people like yourself!!!