Vex Robotics Drivebase Tutorial 

youtube algorithm.

Boosting algorithm gang 📈📈

2:51 "oops" 💀 2:59 oops x2 great video tho can u do like a YT short of this driving? bc we're doing the exact same ratio with 3.25's but it's going a bit slower than i expected so idk what a good speed is for this ratio

For the algorithm 📈

is a 4 wheel drive worse than a 6 wheel drive?

Everything wrong with this video: 1. Speed torque balance isn’t needed, it depends on the game 2. Drive is underbraced, should have at least 2 full chassis brace 3. Box ur cross chassis💀💀 4. Cross brace in front or back is the best as it constrains the drive the best, if u cant for game reasons that’s different 5. Cchan drive pod brace is bad, u should have standoffs as it constraints alone the axis that cchan cross brace tend to be looser on 6. BOX YO SHIT 7. No point in shoulder screws unless it’s on both sides of drive pod 8. Use the correct bearings for dt, the hex nut bearings r slightly offset and not centered 9. Screw joint isn’t needed, it makes building EASIER or STRUCTURAL if u do structural screw joint, axle works just fine and is sometimes needed 10. Screw boxing 11. When drilling LS gears for dt, u should have the inserts on the wheel and not rely on the gears hole as they r often times too big and are off centered 12. U save space if u have ur nuts of the screw joint inside the flange of the cchan, and the other on the side of the wheel 13. Tractions vs omnis 14. 4 6 8 wheel r all fine for any wheel size (4” can’t be 8), it depends on what u want out of the drivetrain, like drift, position of tractions, COG on the robot 15. Ziptie bearing in drivetrain is a very easy way to save weight, save space and build cleaner

Love this content.

Very epic

Should have talked abt zip tied bearings. Makes it easier for the people who cant get nylon screws easily (ex. Completely out of stock when we rebuilt our bot last year)

W

Only if vex didn’t back order all my 3.25 wheels and gears i was gonna use. I’m now using 600 1:1 😭

Nooooooo, now people will think that I hole counted this drive base this year to make my drivetrain

you can pop the normal bearings into the holes. They have little things on them for that reason. And they wiggle just as much as the other bearings that have the square insert on the one side

1. Very lazy boxing. Every single one of those screws on the front of the bot should be boxed all the way through to prevent your flanges from bending. Additionally, you should be boxing your screws all of the way through the bearing flats for your motors. 2. Don't use the crappy 1 screw bearing flats for anything. 1 nylon screw is not redundant enough. You are able to fully square up version 1 bearings due to the plastic bits that stick out the back. Or just put two screws through it and you'll be good. You can also just ziptie your bearings its way lighter. 3. Why would you use standoffs if you didn't have to. The stacked motor mounts will never come loose if you're using just a long screw with spacers with a nylock holding it together. 4. Blud screw in your screw joints on the wheels. Its not acting as a standoff running through your drive in any way providing extra structural support. 5. Using spacers on your drive axles instead of 2 axle collars will create loads of friction if you don't have the perfect spacing. Much easier to tune friction with collars. 6. Use teflon washers instead of metal washers to space out your gears on those drive axles, because metal on metal is going to cook your friction. 7. Flip the cross brace that runs all of the way across your drivetrain and those front c-channels, because the corners on the c-channels will not survive. 8. 3:22 what're we using keps now for our main structural beams. Keps nuts should only be used on prototype mechanisms, never making it to the final bot. Even if its hard to reach just have foresight when building your drive.