Drill an extra hole behind the last steering box bolt to help let water and dirt out of the rail . Owned a blue slant Pacer in the early 80s . Man there were better Pacers in the wrecker in them days 😢.
Good to see you back again. As others have said, I would recommend some copper grease on the stainless bolts and do them up by hand, not the ugga-dugga. Look forward to seeing more updates.
Hay mate, almost done, paint, tyres and taillights and ready for a show and shine! 😂🤣 Yeh, it will get there one day, maybe not next Sunday but it will get there! I love old vals, owned a few in my early life and they were bullet proof , and tough as nails!
Looks good . I like the idea of keeping the riverbed history.but I would paint with POR50 all the chassis k frame under car inside the cabin hoot ect . It will last for ever and show off all the new bits you have worked hard for Nice work
Use copper slip or something to lube the bolts as you replace them especially stainless also with the stainless don't use your ugaduga it can cause no end of problems when the threads bind up . But gkad to see some progress on the car
When you originally said you intended to restore this car, I was very happy. I was sad when you decided to leave it patina. But when you say it costs $140 for four damn bolts, then I can see restoration is just not affordable at all. Do it your way and I will keep watching!
The K frame.. when installing...take a point of reference from each side of chassis.k frame installed loose and line up..pay off later with wheel tracking..🤔🤟
You should of put anti size on X member bolts and don't put nolathane bushes in top wishbones bro it stresses the ears out on chassis plus you should put a sleeve kit on both rails last forever mate had mine 40 years done all that back in the 90s when no one wanted a pacer
Fantastic to you back on the Val, Just as a side note, have you checked to see if there's no issues with ownership or the likes. Hate to see you get to the end have issues.
Stainless steel screws/bolts are exactly what you should NOT use on a K frame. They are nowhere near high enough tensile strength to hold structural members together. An engineer would defect that immediately And the factory K frame bolts have a locating bulge/taper under the head which locates the K frame on the centre line of the bolt holes. Critical for correct wheel alignment.
wurth rust converter in the spray can can be sprayed over rust to seal and stop it and since its clear still gives a patina look even though the rust turns a shinier darker brown. plus is a resin based so it lasts. dont use the CRC stuff since it wont last without overcoating. careful with those stainless bolts.... have found they tend to crack or even crumble on the thread part
Paint the engine bay same colour as the car thats how Chrysler did it mate its open and easy to do please don't cut corners and stuff it , or sell it as is let someone else do a proper job mate
It's not exactly body work. ( 28 seconds into video ). It's subframe work and additions. And subframe and k-frame are not the same thing. Just saying. Rear wheel drive vehicles also have k-frames VN Commadore and EA falcon for example.
