Thanks for this. I've had new front pads sitting on my work bench for 6-9 months because I thought that pin would be a pain to deal with. Now I plan to change them out this weekend. Good video.
i would put p.t.f.e tape on the little blanking screw thread so its easier to remove next time,they get stuck and screwdriver slips and the slot gets chewed up
Any chance of doing a caliper removal and brake pad change for the rear,i ended up with pads and anti squeal shim coming out,in the past i have just taken pads out and replaced without removing caliper,nice and clear explanation by the way
I'm missing a very important part in this video which is the bolts can be unscrewed using regular tools but when screwing them back in you should use a torque wrench set to indicated settings according the Honda Manual.
What year is your vfr? I have a '98 and I didnt' think it had linked braking, so I was wondering if that was what was going on with the "floating caliper" you mentioned. Also is there no bleeding of the brake fluid involved?
I did the same last week without removing the calipers. Only problem is to get the pistons back in to get enough clerance for the new pads. Otherwise it was a ~10 min job incl. the both calipers.
You would need to bleed the brakes if you had removed the brake fluid but if you are just pushing the pistons back in then all that's happening is fluid is forced back in to the reservoir without introducing any air. If you are fitting some aftermarket pads that are thicker than the ones taken out then you should take the top off of the brake reservoir otherwise when it's full the pistons wont go all the way back in. If you have the piston where your caliper mounts to the fork then that would be the input to the back brake, the torque reaction caused by the pads biting moves the piston in forcing the brake brake on. Don't forget to bleed that bit too if you change your fluid.