Hey just a quick note, ppu1 controls the background layers (can't remember if it does mode 7 and ppu2 controls effects (IIRC color window, mosaic, ect) Edit: ppu2 is effects, ppu1 is back round (tiles) and translations of those tiles www.copetti.org/writings/consoles/super-nintendo/
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer Exactly the same problem. I tested it with the test rom and everything ok. Then I tested it with SMW and DK1. The glitch in DK1 is the same as yours. In SMW , Mario fail too.
Question: why wouldn't you try resoldering first before replacing the chip? It could may well be that there's a cold solder joint under a pin and resoldering would have solved it. Cheers!
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer the external aspect and that of the super famicom, but it says super Nintendo, like the American model, but I think it is the same as the super famicom as electronics, only that the video is PAL, but there are original and unused replacement chips?
Hi, I'm Rodrigo from Chile. I have a question? my snes has sound problems but not image. Have you seen this problem? and how it can be repaired. thanks, excellent videos, greetings
Yeah I’ve seen this before, I had a snes that sounded like a tin can or an amp with electric guitar distortion. It had a removable SHVC sound module I replaced it and it was fine. If that doesn’t solve your problem you can try replacing the capacitors, sometimes the audio caps go bad. If that doesn’t help you may have a bad ram chip or audio chip.
What kind of heat gun and desolderer do you use, Punk? Thanks for the videos. I have a SNES I'm trying to revive, but it's failing the multiply/divide tests. I'm assuming a bad CPU.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer Thank you, been meaning to add one of those to my toolset. I had another question; can an SHVC model CPU be used in an SNS-001? And which revision started using the CPUB design?
@@Renulph yes CPUs are interchangeable. Usually CPU-B is the most reliable, I’ve never had a bad one yet. I think CPU-B started in the late run GPM-01s, definitely GPM-02 all had CPU-B
I just bought a cheap SNES motherboard on Ebay and it runs well for the most part but every once in a while I get vertical lines on everything for a split second. I think it's the beginning stages of PPU1 failing. Thoughts? Also can a PPU1 be removed without a hot air gun and without low melt solder?
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer Thanks. I wonder if I could use solder wick to get rid of the solder under the pins to free them; sounds pretty hard though. I would probably end up lifting some pads. Lol.
Hey Punkndisorderly! I took your advice and put out an add to buy up local broken snes/nes and have been happily restoring ever since! I got ONE tricky one that I can’t use the burn and test cart on for an snes. It wouldn’t power on and upon testing with my meter I wasn’t getting continuity on the fuse so I swapped it out and it fired up! So now It starts up fine, then loses color, then by the time I can get down to the testing section, the screen loses color then starts to roll and I can’t read the results of the test! Another thing o noticed since I had the cover off is a few moments after starting it up the thick aluminum cover near the power fuse heats up quickly! I’m guessing there has to be a short somewhere but I was wondering if there’s anywhere I should start troubleshooting in particular? Thank you for these vids and thanks for all the help!!!
That thick aluminum piece is a heatsink, it’s attached to the 7805 voltage regulator to dissipate heat. If the console powers up and loads the burn test cart then it’s likely not a short on the board. I’m willing to bet that the video caps are bad, I would swap them. Also, before you swap the caps test the RF port to see if the problems still persist. Let me know how it turns out.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer well... I may have royally screwed it up... I was testing through the av instead of rf and it was doing the same thing, however, while I had it on the testing table my stupid hand fumbled and I dropped the loose power switch perfectly to where it laid across like three of the cpu pins... it made a buzzing sound on the tv and I completely lost all video now in both ports. 😭 fml 🤦♂️ it still powers on and the screen flickers but video is gone. Maybe if it was a capacitor going bad that caused it to completely fry? Hoping that short didn’t fry the CPU... wondering if I should proceed with replacing caps or if this puppy is dead now. Lol omg I can’t believe I did that......... Update 😂 I fried my burn-in test cart in the process as well. Whatever I shorted out must have also ran to the pins.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer yeah... I tested the cart on a working unit. Lesson learned lol!!! Gotta watch the ol fumble hands! But hey! I got another board for dirt cheap that I think just has a bad ppu so maybe this prestige board I just fried the chip on, can be a donor 😃
Great video. My SNES has a problem: Only one games works. All others I tried show a black screen or only a few seconds of the intro. I don't know what's so special about the game that still works: Terminator II The Arcade Game. I don't intend to repair it: No skills and no parts, and for one game it still works. But I'm really curious what is causing the issue. Watching your other videos I think it's the CPU...
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer cool thanks for the reply so quick and I suppose I should have asked what the paste you applied at the start of the removal Thanks
@@TR-vm6gu oh haha that is also flux. Flux comes in many different types, the petroleum jelly kind is flux paste, the liquid is liquid no clean flux. If you’re repairing electronics keep in mind to avoid flux for plumbing applications.
@@PunkNDisorderlyGamer that's great thanks man I'm currently working my way through your videos there super informative and interesting you make replacement of those chips look really simple even though I know its not ,I'm going to practice plenty on some junk electronics before I attempt this on one of my glitchy super Nintendos 😀 thanks again for the reply
nice video! Also question, I recently got my pal snes and when I connect it to the TV with the game it just has a silverish/black screen, tho when I press the reset button it goes static for a moment and then nothing happends, got any tips how to fix this? anything would help. Also the led lamp turns on too
If you’re using a pal snes on pal tv you shouldn’t be getting black and white. Try RF or AV which ever you haven’t tried yet, see if the problem is the same. You may need to replace the capacitors or perhaps tune/replace the trimmer capacitor labeled TC1. I had a black and white picture and I replaced TC1 and it solved the problem, but it’s very rare I think 1 out of the 60-75 units I’ve fixed. I don’t even think it went bad, I think someone tweaked it too far and broke it.