Sep 15, 2023, second half of stage 6
We left Casa Santicchio, bidding our hosts Laura and Marzio farewell. We didn't have to retrace our steps because there's a road road that leads towards the town of Rimbocchi where we stopped briefly for cappuccinos before a steep climb to Poggio Montopoli (1,022 m).
The forest through which we walked on the approach to Santuario della Verna is said to be the prettiest along the entire route. It was very verdant with an abundance of small, pink flowers.
Upon arrival we checked in and into our room that was very basic but quite satisfactory. A single crucifix was the only decoration hanging on the wall.
In the afternoon we walked around the sanctuary and joined the post-mass procession but bowed out after we realized we had no understanding whatsoever of the service.
The sanctuary itself is impressive. It's a fairly large complex of buildings with a lot of religious art, including Andrea della Robbia's famed glazed terracottas.
We were prepared for dinner this evening. Sharing a table with Rosa, my fellow biochemist, who had also spent the night at Casa Santiccio, we had a similar meal to that which we'd enjoyed at the Monastery in Camaldoli. This time we were ready to take the fruit bowl and carafe of wine from the adjacent table.
We were glad to spend the afternoon and night at della Verna. In 2019, we had rushed through only spending about an hour here. Once all the day tourists have left it's a magical, tranquil place. It was also cool at night and we all slept well.
Sep 16, 2023, stage 7 plus part of stage 8
Breakfast this morning started at 8 am and was actually quite wonderful and we were joined by Rosa. It was a buffet during which I consumed 6 cups of espresso, three croissants, and four prosciutto and cheese sandwiches, two of which I took for lunch.
Rosa left before us but we soon overtook her and arrived at Pieve Santo Stefano well ahead of the guidebook's suggested time. We ate lunch sitting on a bench in front of a fountain in the town's park. A brother and his young sister were riding their small bicycles around and around the fountain.
Whereas in 2019 we went due south from Pieve Santa Stefano, this time we headed east into the mountains, climbing a couple of thousand feet before reaching our destination for the day, Ca' la Fonte at Passo di Viamaggio, 983m. I'd arranged to stay at a refuge here, €35 per person, including provisions to make our own dinner and breakfast.
The refuge is owned by a family of mountaineers. We were greeted by Daniele who gave us a tour of the place and put some large bottles of beer (€3.50 each) in the fridge. Daniele told us we would be joined for the night by two Italian guys so there would be five of us. There were beds for seven.
When I opened the fridge a bottle of beer rolled off the shelf and hit the floor. It didn't break but the cap came off and the beer exploded out onto the floor. Oops! Daniele said not to worry. Together we cleaned it up.
We got first choice of beds as Paul arrived about an hour after us. I chose the bed by the window so I'd have control of the temperature.
Paul arrived and he spoke good English as he was born in the UK. He was loud, funny, and a generation younger than us.
Michael arrived half an hour after Paul. He was brought by car as he was having some sort of problem. They'd both started together two days earlier from Santuario della Verna. Michael was even louder and funnier than Paul but he only spoke Italian so we didn't understand most of what he was saying.
The five of us made pasta dinner together. Patsy and I made the sauce, Paul made salad, and Michael cooked the pasta. The pasta was real Italian, al dente. "We don't like our pasta like glue", Paul said. It was definitely on the chewy side.
3 окт 2024
