Great video, love the video at high speeds to show actual vibration. A few things to add to make the job more complete. 1. Wire brush the tabs that hold the U-Joint caps on the rear yoke. Especially where they contact the U-Joint caps. 2. I always lightly center punch the shaft and yoke in the rear to mark the orientation (this is so when the next guy forgets to:). A center punch mark won't wipe or wash off. 3. This is a big one that I never knew. "Seat" the U-Joint caps. Yes "seat" them. I spotted it in a video and it is true. After you press in the caps, try to rotate the U-Joint. If it moves but is tight (and most of the time it is) take an impact socket that fits inside the yoke opening for the cap. Give it a quick wrap with a hammer. Do this on both caps. This will "seat" the cap and then the joint should move freely.
Here in Boise you can get anywhere in the valley pretty easily without driving on the highway. That’s been my fix for my 96 jimmy for a few years now. Looks like I’m going to be replacing a u-joint here soon. Hopefully I’ll be able to get back on the highway again this summer.
For those watching this video in fall 2020. I just had my 2017 Chevy Colorado serviced to repair the Chevy shutter. All that is required is a complete transmission flush. They remove all of the old fluid and replace it with a new Mobile 1 fluid. The old fluid was being corrupted with water moisture that somehow gets into the closed system. The service bulletin number is 18-NA-355. Seems to have solved the problem.
I had a vibration after replacing U joints on my '02 Silverado. I later found that i had a poorly made yoke from factory. The ears of the yoke were different thickness from one side to the other causing the shaft to be off center. I had to get a new yoke and have the drive shaft balanced but all was good after that.
I have a Chevy G20 van that I've been restoring with moog steering parts and acdelco for everything else. I see on RockAuto they have the GM genuine u-joints and also they have Moog u-joints. I can't tell from the pictures if the GM ones are greaseable. Are you aware if there's a big difference in the quality between the two? I'm leaning more towards the GM genuine u-joints but I'm not sure if the Moog is more of an upgraded version and I know for a fact that it's greasable.
One thing I have always done is tap the driveshaft on both sides with a hammer after putting in both clips to help center up the cups and remove any bind they might be in from the pressing.
One thing I like to do, when installing new u-joints, the caps not being pressed into the driveshaft I like to put a piece of tape around them so I don't have to worry about them falling out while installing. Then take the tape off when installing onto the pinion yoke.
i have a suzuki sx4 that has simular problem. Virbation that is speed dependent .... i had the cv changed out and later front bearing.... but prob didnt go away ...had i watched this video i wouldve solved my vibration issue. thanks awsome video...
Thanks for the video. Great info, I have been chasing this issue with my Dodge 1500 for months now. Dealer can't figure it out. tires have been balanced all new steering components and problem persist. I suspect that's the only thing left to check and no one has bothered to
Ironically my U Joint went out on my truck as i went to merge on the highway a couple nights ago and put a hole in my fuel tank. Fun night that was. Not.
Co-worker had that happen on his Peterbilt, right after it came out of the shop from having some work done. He made it less than 45min up the road, and it let go at the front diff, because the mechanic hadn't torqued down the bolt that holds the yoke on the drive pinion at the front diff. When the yoke let go, the shaft thrashed around and tore open both his fuel tanks. The PB dealership had to come good for both saddle tanks, a yoke and pinion at the diff, and a new shaft, plus the big fat fine the company got for the fuel spill. I can't remember, but I think there was a fight over the tow bill. And the co-worker was out of work for a week and a half while the parts were rounded up and installed. Last thing I heard over that, that particular mechanic was let go. The fuel spill fine itself was ten grand, no idea how much the cleanup was, and I didn't have the heart to ask too many questions so I never found out how much the damage was to his truck in terms of dollar figure.
My 2011 Ford Escape would vibrate violently at just under 100 mph, I would hear a thump than it would settle down, I’m suspecting a bad U-Joint like this! Nice video! :-)
One more thing to add whenever I do a drive shaft I always take it to a speed shop that specializes in drive shafts and rear end and had the shaft balanced makes a big difference especially on aluminum they true it and balance it makes a last a lot longer and a lot smoother
I just got the same problem on my Chevy Tahoe 2002 but my U joints are so rusted that there’s zero play or movement, I even tried moving them with a pry bar, any takers ?
Good video thank you. I have. 2016 Lincoln MKZ and I’ve had a problem with vibration since I had it. Both the dealers bought it from and the Lincoln dealer both said it was the wheels. So I had the wheels straightened and just bought new tires all around and still have vibrating from the rear. Feel it in my lower back. It’s front wheel drive so you have any idea what it could be?? Thank you
You might can help me. My 2005 gmc sierra after a while driving start a vibration but if I stop and re-start driving no more vibration for lot of time, vibration comes randomly not at determinated speed. Normally after 60mph. When the vibration starts I hit the brakes the feel like stuck in. I don't know because I already replace driveshaft, u-joints, bearing.
Mine vibrates above 35mph, dosnt vibrate when braking or accelerating quickly.only when coasting above 35 and get worse the faster you go. Driveshaft? Orrr any other opinions?
I liked the way you put the ujoint back togeather, the bottom was good but when you went to push the top one in you couldn't keep the ujoint pressed togeather like the first one and the knocking from that impact might make those needle bearings come out
I got a Chevy 1500 stepside single cab I added a 5 inch lift kit with 22x12 rims with 33s and it’s started to shake when I reach 70 sooo I added new upper control arms and ball joints and it still shake but idk what to do cause whenever I had the lift I had 33s muddtires and it didn’t shake Soo I think it’s the rims or something I need help at this point any advice
Should you run your vehicle like that with the rear axle hanging? Doesn't that change the angle of the driveshaft? Also, would it be a good idea to replace the transmission extension housing seal while you have your driveshaft out? Or is that one of those things that if it ain't broke don't fix it? My mechanic did not change the seal and now it leaks and I have to have him remove the driveshaft again and replace the seal so it will cost me more money now.
I’ve replaced my entire from brake system, pitman arm and idler arm, I’ve gotten the wheels balanced and checked for uneven tire thread but I have yet to check the u joint from yolk to trans. The rear u joint I’ve replaced recently. Hopefully this fixes my NBS Silverado.
So what about an awd suburban? Mine shakes an moans at highway speeds, jus replaced rotors pads an wheel bearings up front, haven't done the cv shafts yet or the u joints on the front driveshaft.
Thank you. My 99 jeep cherokee 4wd has a vibe that starts at 75mph and gets worse as you go up from there. I’ve grabbed the u-joints before, but didn’t see or feel play. I have new, balanced tires, so they’re not the culprits.
@@RideAcrossTheRiver believe it or not, I haven’t found out the culprit yet. It has cracked the stock tranny(replaced with ng3550), then destroyed the 242(put orig 231 back in), even though I put a new Tom Woods driveshaft on the rear. I have a new TW front shaft ready to go on, but none is on atm. I suspect the rear pinion is the culprit and have an eaton trutrack and new 3.55s to go on. I can’t believe an out of balance wheel would destroy a tranny and xfer case.
@@grad0n Okay, you have a major issue more than mine. I just feel a massage-chair thrum in my Escape at highway speed. No severe shake like you describe. Hope thats fixed for you soon.
My car had a vibration exactly between 120 and 130 km/h (75 and 80 mi/h), which was annoying as those two numbers are common speed limits on the highways where I live. Then I went and changed the timing belt (i4 interference engine), which required removing one of the motor mounts. I had marked the mount in order to put it back where it was, but when I went to do so I noticed I really had to put a lot of force against the engine to push it back into its previous position. So I fastened the motor mount in what seemed like the right position instead. No more vibration :) I went back later with a fabricobbled caliper to check the engine position and it was dead on. I still have no clue how it got moved out of position by about 2.5 cm / 1 inch, though I suppose it might have something to do with the previous owner driving into things on a regular basis.
I have the same year truck but 4x4. Sometimes after using 4hi. The next day or a couple days after the truck will start in 4 low by it self. And seem to slip pretty bad while in 4 low.. Shifting into 4 hi it is fine. And it shifts back into 2ed fine. Any ideas?
Interesting... The first place I would check is the 4WD selector switch. Verify the vehicle is in 2WD, then unplug the switch and leave it unplugged. If the truck never shifts back into 4WD low, I would start with replacing the switch. If it's slipping, start by checking the transfer case fluid level and changing/topping off as needed.
Think that bad axle bearings can cause a vibration? Ive replaced the whole front end and front end vibration is gone. Changed all 3 u joints amd the carrier bearing still vibrates. Ive had 3 different sets of wheels/tires. Feel the vibration mainly in the rear. Also it hapens at exactly 20mph and 40-45mph, during these speeds it feels more like a hop or like if I was driving on really smooth speed bumps one after another. As well as 70+ but here its more like a constant vibration not bumpy. I also chamged my rotors thinking that was the problem but it dident fix it.
I have a 1985 Toyota pu. I've had this truck for about 18 years. It has always had this same problem. It comes and goes. I've replace the u joints and no change. I think the pinion bearing is worn out. I can move it up and a little.
i have a continuous vibration sounds similar to a subwoofer constantly hitting like “vrm-vrm-vrm-vrm”. I thought it was suspension related at first, but i noticed it does it while in overdrive, then when i turn off overdrive i don’t seem to hear it. it usually starts around 40mph and gets faster with the speed i’m going. what could it be? i thought at first it was tire shake or something but idk now
I got all my u joints replaced and I’m my carrier bearing but my truck still shakes on the highway even at lower speeds it shakes to sometimes like my center console shakes
Is it possible that this vibration at 70 mph is worse at one time than another? Trying to diagnose a vibration and it feels like one day is decent and others is worse….
When I've put u joints in I've had the get tight, I've tapped the flange with a hammer, on a steel driveshaft but what do you do on an aluminum drive shaft if the u joint is tight ??
