By far the best help video of any kind I have ever seen on RU-vid. Concise, and completely devoid of any useless unrelated jabbering so often found in other videos. This gentleman sets the bar for others.
Paul, thank you for returning back to Victory subject. You are really exceptionally good at this, and all Victory owners need as much of it as possible given that Polaris has abandon us.
Thank you so much for this video Paul! My throttle cutoff switch was stuck on. I had to adjust (tighten) the throttle push cable to get the error cleared in diagnostics mode. I would not have been able to fix this without you man!
Thank you very much for your information. You are very thorough in your explanation of how everything works with the cruise control. I found my issue. It was at the throttle switch because it had larger handlebars put on. Thank you for your help and your time.
Very informative video. My cruise control was not working. In the process of following your procedure, I found my front brake light switch was broken. Thanks for the video.
@@PaulPomerleau hello, I have a victoria vision street bike, and the cruise control does not work in it, power is supplied to it, it turns on with a button, but the indicator on the dashboard does not light up. Can you tell me what to do? how to check what could be ??
Great; Great; Video Paul! Last summer on a trip my bike sat out uncovered overnight in a torrid rain storm. The next day on the expressway at 115 km the cruise control would not disengage. I lugged the motor to slow the bike down before hitting the kill switch. Scary ride! However the next day the bike dried off the cruise worked fine again but the dash light will not show when the cruise is on. You video will help diagnose the problem.
Merci Paul, je vais tester sur ma Cross country Tour, mon régulateur ne s'allume sur On mais s'éteint de suite! j'ai vu que le feu arrière fonctionne mais pas quand je freine de l'avant ou du pied, par contre sur mon top case, cela fonctionne! Thank you Paul, I am going to test on my Cross country Tour, my regulator does not turn on On but turns off immediately! I saw that the rear light works but not when I brake from the front or with the foot, on the other hand on my top case, it works!
I just ran across this video because my horn intermittently does not work. At this same time my cruise control does not work. Hopefully this will help me troubleshoot and locate the issue. Thanks!
I did not know much of this, I added a Lloydz throttle ring and now my cruise shuts down as soon as I let go of the throttle grip. The ring took up all the slack on the pull cable . I’ll try I’ll try adjusting the push cable, Thanks for the video Paul !
You are on the right track. Your 2 throttle cables are not balanced. Loosen them both, let the spring in the throttle grip center itself and adjust both cables while keeping the grip centered and with a bit of free play. Worse comes to worse you can disconnect the Push cable switch on the right/front side of the tank as shown in my video. Keep me posted as to your progress. Thanks for watching.
Hello paul . First I just wanna thank you for all the videos you posted very nicely done and extremely hhelpful.I own a 2017 cct black like yours I have a problem with my volume up control, I think it is corrode from water getting in , it would be great if you could post a video on how to fix it.
Super class. I'm having the same problem with my cruise as many Vic owners. It works when it wants to. Can you point me to where you fix that? Please keep it coming.
Awesome stuff Paul! Thanks, I did not realize there was the push cable to turn it off. Will have to try that although I have the 1/4 throttle ring so not sure how it will work.
Just installed cruise on my 2014 8 ball. What a job!!! Anyway…. It doesn’t seem to enter diagnostic mode. The green indicator just quickly flashes but doesn’t stay on 🤔
Hi Paul, Dean here from Alberta. I too am happy to see another Victory video from you. My 2012 Victory C.C.T. Cruise Control works fine, but my wife's 2012 Victory Vegas Cruise Control does not, so she claims. The module on her bike has been hit a few times and I have had to repair it. On a Vegas, it is way underneath just before the rear wheel and can be impacted if you go over a speed bump too fast. Needless to say, that's how the first one on her Vegas got wrecked. I did not want to buy a whole new Victory Cruise Control kit (now no longer being sold) and I did a ton of research and found the company that makes the individual components. I'll post the link for it at the end. I look forward to going through these diagnostics, to see if it works 100% before we start riding this Summer. www.thecruisecontrolstore.com/250-2316-rostra-ultracruise2-cruise-control-servo-replacement/
Hey paul, I just installed CC on my 2016 XC and am having an issue where the LED will not illuminate on the assembly AT ALL. I've checked and disconnected/reconnected the plug in the front headlight bucket but am not having any luck. The killswitch is in RUN position, I should add. Sucks cause I have spent the better part of the last 2 days installing the components. Thanks!
Not sure if an added Cruise Control is connected the same way as an OEM. Also a headlight bucket is on a Cross Roads, the Cross Country has a fairing so not sure if it is wired the same at all. Do you have the 10 wire connector going to the main cruise module itself under the seat? I explain how to test each pin in this site: www.thevog.net/threads/xc-cruise-control-not-working.163167/#post-3322943 Let me know if you can read it and what you get at each one.
Extremely helpful video as usual, Paul. I narrowed my problem to the throttle cut off sensor on the throttle cable. I pulled the front wire off as a test and now the cruise works (other than not shutting off when I roll off the throttle, of course.) So now what?
The push cable where the cut off switch is located is too tight causing the switch to be on all the time. You need to balance the two throttle cables. Loosen both cables and let the spring in the throttle grip center itself. Then tighten both cables at the same rate so one is not tighter than the other and the grip will stay centered. You should only have 2-4mm free play in the grip until you feel resistance from the cables. Once the grip is balanced with the throttle body everything will work fine. Don't forget to plug your front wire back on. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching.
Hi..The dash light stood on so I disconnected and reconnected each point ..The cruise light on dash never went off..I’m also getting power to the module..
Hey paul i did the test for the cruise control when you hold both buttons to show the cruise light you say it should go off but mine stays on what would the problem
Went to ride and found cruise control did not disengage when I tapped front break! Dangerous stuff! This also gave me no rear break light when engaging front break! Erghh... took off the switch under the front break...one srew, two wires (remember what goes where) and gave the switch a good clean with electrical cleaner spray. The small units have a couple of open spots where dirt etc can get in. So if its dirty on the outside its dirty inside. Put it back on and it now works. Thanks for posting your vids they have been so helpful. What mount are you using for your GPS? Having trouble finding one that fits Vision handlebar! Thanks again!
Thanks for posting your fix of the switch. The more we share the better it is for everyone. My GPS mount is from RAM and I bought it at GPSCity.ca in Canada. I posted a video of it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1EG37tGgsKE.html
Ha Paul Great video thank you for doing it. it was so nice to know how to diagnose the CC I have a question about the white wire blue stripe power to CC module. I have power at the fuse box pin A, horn works but No power at plug with white wire blue stripe pin A. I opened the loom to follow that wire but stopped at the fuel tank. do you know where that wire splices into the loom at by chance ??
Hi Paul, great video. I'm trying to get into diagnostic mode but when I let the buttons go the dash icon stays lit up. I don't suppose you have any idea as to why? Cheers.
First thing I would do is disconnect all the cutoff switches (front brake switch, rear brake switch, throttle cutoff and clutch switch) then see if the light goes off and then reconnect one at a time.
Paul thanks for the information. I was not aware of the testing feature. Where or how did you find out about that test procedure? I am still dealing with my anti-lock system. The dealer changed the module and the speed sensors but the light still comes on. Very aggravating.
Hi Miguel, I believe it is in the service manual, but I noticed a lot of people are not aware of it so I made this video. Sorry to hear about your ABS, I know a lot of people have issues with it as well and I am working on a system to troubleshoot it. Did it cost you anything for the dealer to change the parts or was it covered. It is amazing how the pros at the dealers change things and it still doesn't fix it.
Hi Paul , great video. i have gone through all these steps. i found that when i tried to get the cruise in diagnostic mode even though my dash cruise light did luminate after holding the acc and off buttons and releasing. The other buttons did not light the dash cruise light when depressed. Has this problem occurred before? I have checked both fuses with meter turn /horn and cruise on the right hand side and they are both ok. I also checked the 10 pin plug and everything does what it supposed to according to everything that I have read here. Could it be my handle bar switches ?
Just to clarify, it is the turn/horn and chasis fuses that feed the cruise control module. Did you confirm the chasis fuse? Also, the large connector under the seat has signal wires coming from the handle bar switches, and you can confirm the signals there. That is the way I would do it. Check all the signal wires for 12 volts when buttons are pushed at the large connector under the seat.
@@PaulPomerleau hi Paul, thanks for the super quick response. In response tour reply. I did check the turn fuse Turn/ horn fuse and the chassis fuse separately with a meter and they are both fine. I have checked the plug under the seat and checked that I have power coming from the handle bar switches. Pins A to H all have 12v when brakes switches and handle bar control buttons are pressed. But the cruise dash light wont luminate when pressed whiles in diagnostic mode.
If the A-H pins all work, then it seems that your handle bar switches are working fine. The green cruise light on the dash actually gets its power from the engine control module (ECM) under the left side cover. Does your cruise work while riding? Does the green light on the dash come on while riding in cruise mode?
@@PaulPomerleau Hi Paul, so to answer the first question. no the cruise control doesn't work, And the green cruise light on the dash doesn't come on as my cruise control wont engage !
Well, if all the 12 volts and all the signals are making its way to the main connector, then it would appear that the issue would be with the cruise module itself. I hate saying it, and I would continue troubleshooting some more before going to the extreame and expense of replacing it. Verify all wires are not open or loose inside the main connector. Clean all the contacts, check for corrosion. There is not much left besides this. Check with other techs for different ideas. I hate spending money on something and it turns out to be something else. Please keep me informed. I would be very interested in the outcome.
Not necessarily. First thing is to test your fuses. Your TS/Horn fuse that powers the control switches and the Chassis fuse beside it that powers the module itself. Check them with a meter and not just by looks. Also, disconnect the large module connector under the seat, check for corrosion and look for loose or damaged wires on all 10 pins.
Paul, my name is Tom, I have a 2017 victory cross country tour ,the cruise control is not working, I did watch your video on cruise control and it will not go in to diagnostic mode was wondering if you had any other info that you could share with me to help out my situation.Thanks
What I would do next is check the voltages at each wire on the main connector under the seat. Remove the seat and disconnect the large 10 pin connector in the hole. Meter the harness (female) side of the connector for volts DC. On the side of the connector will be letters etched into it showing the wire number (A,B,C...) Put full power to the bike (ignition and run/stop switches on) Black meter lead to negative side of battery. Red meter lead on the following pins: A - When red LED on cruise panel is on you should have 12vdc here. When LED is off you should have 0vdc. B - When you press the Set/Decel button you should see 12vdc. When you release the button you should see 0vdc. C - When you press the Resume/Accel button you should see 12vdc. When you release the button you should see 0vdc. D - When you reverse twist the throttle you should see 12vdc. When you release the throttle you should see 0vdc. E - Ground (do a resistance check from here to ground after). F - You should have 12vdc here when the bike is fully powered, 0vdc when off. This comes from the Chassis fuse in box. G - You should see 12vdc here when you press any brake switch. 0vdc when no brakes are applied. If anything is not what it should be then you can continue further on that wire. Hope this helps.
If the green light stays on in diagnostic mode, it usually means you have a cancel button stuck. The one that usually causes this problem is the throttle cut off switch at the front right side of the fuel tank. Disconnect the 2 wires and see if that fixes it. If not, then I would meter each wire on the large cruise connector located under the seat. I have a write-up on how to do that in the comment section from someone else asking about the same issue. If you need more help let me know.
Paul, Thanks for all the vids they help a lot . My CC stopped working and i've have tried entering the diagnostic mode. When I hold the two buttons down and hold for a few seconds and let go the light stays on. The on/off button now will quick flash and stay off. The other two buttons do not flash at all. Do I need to replace the switch ?? The fuses are good . Any advice will help. Thanks in advance Brad
I don't know why your on/off button will flash and shut off. It has it's own fuse (TS/Horn) seperate from the CC module which uses the Chasis fuse. When you are not in diag mode does the on/off light stay on when you press it? As for the green CC dash indicator light staying on, the first thing I would do is disconnect the 3 sensors (front brake switch, rear brake switch and throttle switch on cable) then go into diag mode to see if the green light goes out. Then it is a matter of plugging one at a time back in to find the problem. If that doesn't work, inspect and clean the main module 10 pin connector under the seat. Hope this helps.
@Paul Pomerleau I started all over testing .First I tried entering diagnostic mode as described by you. The dash light stayed on I then pressed the on/off button and the dash light turned off. After that when I pressed the on/off button and the dash light would blink one time every time. No other buttons would blink or stay on ( got nothing). So I then pulled one wire on each throttle, hand brake and foot brake and tried entering diagnostic mode for each individual wire then I tried all of them unplugged. Each time there was no difference trying to enter diagnostic mode. From there I pulled module from under seat unplugged and tested each wire as you described from the VOG . All that was good. Fuses were all tested and good, although I replaced them anyway. So I put all back together and tried again to enter diagnostic mode with the same results. I took apart the switch to see if there was any corrosion, none found and reassembled and tried again with same results. So I'm assuming the module is bad . Any further help would be greatly appreciated, thanks Brad. 14 CC Tequlia Gold I do find all your videos very informative as I do all the work myself.
Yes, but you will not be able to use the throttle to turn it off by twisting in reverse. It's just a safety thing, not many people turn off the cruise that way.
Great video! But when I try to put the cruise in diagnostic mode the dash light stays on after I release both buttons. (3:03 into the video). I can turn it off, but no other action affects the dash light. Can you tell me what is causing this? Thank you.
Did you disconnect your 2 brake switches and the throttle switch to see if it is caused by one of those? Also check your CHASSIS fuse loacated beside the turn signal fuse. Check it with a meter, not by eye. After that you will have to meter each of the wires on the main cruise connector under the seat.
@@PaulPomerleau Checked everything you said, but the green light wouldn't go off. Finally, I just started unhooking stuff, beginning with my aftermarket LED running/brake indicator lights. BINGO! Although the lights worked properly, there was evidently a malfunction in the control box itself. New box installed and the problem is solved. The reason I didn't immediately find this is because the short was in the box and not contingent upon the power switch being on or off. Only when completely unhooked from the power source did it change. Thank you so much for your videos and you kind willingness to help others. May God bless you and yours'.
Glad you got it working again. I didn't know about your aftermarket LED's. Those definitely cause issues with cruise. I guess from now on I should ask that question when a situation like yours arises. Ride safe and have fun.
Just purchased a 2014 Vision, the cruise does not work. The light of switch to turn on works. Tried the diagnostics and when I pressed and released the two buttons at the same time the the cruise light turnes on and stays on. 😟 cant go any further
Has anyone had there bike. When trying to put your cruise in diagnostics mode the light on the dash just stays on with an arrow pointing at it and only goes of when you turn it off. I’m not able to continue with checking everything.
To get to the heart of the problem, I would check the voltages at each wire on the main connector under the seat. Remove the seat and disconnect the large 10 pin connector in the hole. Meter the harness (female) side of the connector for volts DC. On the side of the connector will be letters etched into it showing the wire number (A,B,C...) Put full power to the bike (ignition and run/stop switches on) Black meter lead to negative side of battery. Red meter lead on the following pins: A - When red LED on cruise panel is on you should have 12vdc here. When LED is off you should have 0vdc. B - When you press the Set/Decel button you should see 12vdc. When you release the button you should see 0vdc. C - When you press the Resume/Accel button you should see 12vdc. When you release the button you should see 0vdc. D - When you reverse twist the throttle you should see 12vdc. When you release the throttle you should see 0vdc. E - Ground (do a resistance check from here to ground after). F - You should have 12vdc here when the bike is fully powered, 0vdc when off. This comes from the Chassis fuse in box. G - You should see 12vdc here when you press any brake switch. 0vdc when no brakes are applied. If anything is not what it should be then you can continue further on that wire. Hope this helps.
so this is Rob again. I have come home and run the diagnostic test on everything. Green cruise light does what it should in every test. Symptoms: every once in a while cruise will go on when I press set. But only for a short moment and then goes off by itself. . Less than 1/8 of mile. And cruise will not set again. I have done as you have suggested with disconnecting throttle shutoff switch. Yields same result. I do have the sabor tooth lights so I disconnected each light individually and then took it out again. Now when the cruise is on the green light just sits and flickers constantly when cruise is on and will not set. I’m at a loss. Looking for help……
It appears that you may have an intermittent wire connection somewhere. I would start with the cruise control module main wire harness located under the seat. Unplug it and check that all connectors are clean, but most importantly, check that each wire is secure by tugging on each one and making sure it is locked in place on both parts of the connector. Also check the insulation on each wire for damage. Note that the cruise controller on the handlebar gets its power from the horn/TS fuse but the main module gets it from the Chassis fuse. Check to make sure that it is good and seated well in the fuse box. Try these things and see what you find.
Okay so I can’t get it figured out but I did figure out one thing it does. I don’t know if it’s a problem or not. With the bike not running but on and in the diagnostic mode. I decided to open the throttle and then just let go to see if the “rebound” to closed would trigger the throttle shut off switch. It does not. But after the second or third time of opening throttle and then letting it close the cruise light starts flashing. Any ideas on that. I’d love to chat sometime. I’m not sure how to reach out directly. Do you know of a way? Thank you so much.
That is how a Throttle Position Reset is done by snapping the throttle back like that. I wonder if that is affecting anything. Did you verify all wires on the main harness plug under the seat?
@@PaulPomerleau sorry. I haven’t replied back. Life got crazy. Yeah I confirmed the wires. They all look good to me. I can’t get this figured out. :(. I’m wondering now if there is something with the cruise module I just wish I didn’t have to spend 250 to buy a used one just to see if it works. lol.
I don’t know if you are still checking these comments but I have gone through all the switches and other forums but haven’t found an answer to my issue. I have a 2016 XC. It came to me with 985 miles on it, so pretty much new. When I turn on the cruise control or put it in diagnostics mode, the green indicator light comes on, then flickers out. Do you know what might cause this?
Do you have any aftermarket brake lights or signal lights that are not OEM? These can stop the cruise from working. If you do, unplug them and try the cruise again.
Paul, awesome thorough video. I'm looking for help with my 2011 Victory Cross Country. Symptoms are: On/Off button lights up, green dash light flickers and then remains dark. Diagnostic mode, the dash light comes on and goes dark. Pressing any of the other buttons yields no response. In normal operations the cruise control does not come on. The cutoff switches for the brakes are not the problem, brake lights are off and turn on normally when actuated. There have been no modifications that I can think of that would have affected the throttle cutoff. Power connector (and horn) work and appear fine. The dealer said that the module may have been fried when I accidentally reversed polarity installing a replacement battery. So, I've been reluctant to pay the $800+ to replace the module without getting comfortable with that as the solution. Thoughts?
The next thing I would try is to disconnect the 10 wire connector under the seat and meter each harness pin for voltage while pressing the corresponding buttons. This will test that all signals are getting to the module. If all works good to that spot then unfortunately it would appear to be the module itself. Do you have any brake light mods done to the bike? Sabertooth or otherwise?
Paul Pomerleau, no mods to the brake light. And it was working until I did the stupid reverse polarity battery connection. Where is the actual module located? Is it in the fairing or somewhere else? I can order the part off the Polaris site, but I have to figure out how to install it.
@@PaulPomerleau. Good morning. I’m very happy I found this video. I admittedly have not do any of the test yet. As I just found the video and I’m out of town. (Not on my bike). But my cruise control is also like others works when it wants and vice a versa. So I’ve been reading all the comments. I do have the saber tooth brake lights installed. I bought it that way. Could this cause the cruise control issues?
@@PaulPomerleau so this is Rob again. I have come home and run the diagnostic test on everything. Green cruise light does what it should in every test. Symptoms: every once in a while cruise will go on when I press set. But only for a short moment and then goes off by itself. . Less than 1/8 of mile. And cruise will not set again. I have done as you have suggested with disconnecting throttle shutoff switch. Yields same result. I do have the sabor tooth lights so I disconnected each light individually and then took it out again. Now when the cruise is on the green light just sits and flickers constantly when cruise is on and will not set. I’m at a loss. Looking for help……
Hey Paul, Awesome video this lends a ton of insight in to the cruise feature. I have a question if you have time to consider. On my bike once in diagnostic mode my cruise indicator stays lit, I have disconnected all the switches you reference in your video and still have a solid green cruise indicator. Any ideas on where to check next?
The other switches that could cause the indicator to stay lit are the control panel buttons. If you hold down any one of these buttons the indicator will light up.
@@PaulPomerleau Thanks for the response Paul. My control panel buttons do not change the state of the cruise indicator it stays lit at all times. Is it possible this has failed? It allows me to enter diagnostics mode but pushing any other buttons does not do anything.
Hey Paul, so figured out the issue. As a heads up I installed a brake flasher on the white/pink cable under the seat. Apparently at this location it sends a cancel to the cruise module???. Removed and rewired back through stock, cruise works fine. Wired flasher on the trunk 8 pin connector, works fine with cruise.
Hello Paul. Thank you for the video. I just recently purchased a used 2013 Victory Cross Country. its in great shape. Yesterday as I was taking it out for a cruise on the highway. My cruise control would not "Set". After an 30 minutes of driving, it worked. I pulled over into a store. When I got back on the motorcycle, I was driving down the highway, cruise engaged fine. However, it then disengaged on its own and would not set again. As you mentioned, the led light was on and when I would try to turn on again, the cruise light on the panel would come on for a split second. I am going to try your diagnostics and hopes I can find what comes up. If there is something else you can share, by all means. Thanks in advance. RSC
The indicator flashing for a split second is normal. You will see this on my video as well. Try the diagnostic to confirm but if all shows good it may be an intermittent problem caused by vibration while riding, most likely one of the 3 cancel switches. Try disconnecting the throttle cancel switch first for a while to see if that fixes the problem, at least your brake lights will continue to function. Good luck and thanks for watching.
@@PaulPomerleau Hello Paul. Well I finally was able to try your self diagnose as you stated. As yes it is the throttle switch.. I have read on others to just use your break. I still would like to fix this part. Do I take the throttle apart but then? Any regards I would like to thank you for getting back to me.
@@PaulPomerleau Morning Paul, I failed to mention that when I did the throttle test, the cruise control indicator stays lit. By pressing on the brakes or other buttons, it wont turn off. Thanks RSC
Any number of reasons for the ABS. Did you put a bigger wheel on the front? Dirty tone ring, dirty sensor, sensor should be 1mm from ring, faulty sensor. Could be any one of these things.
Most likely the throttle cut off switch that I talk about in my video. Since it is only doing it sometimes your cables are not super tight but also not quite balanced. You just need to loosen the push cable a bit and take up the slack with the pull cable. Just a little adjustment is needed and it should be perfect.
The TS/Horn fuse I mention in the video is for the control panel. The "Chasis" fuse right beside it is for the module itself, check it first. If that isn't it, unplug the main connector under the seat and verify its condition.
The next thing I would try is to disconnect the main cruise cable under the seat and test for power on Pin A (White/Dark Blue wire) on the harness side connector. This comes from the "Chassis" fuse.
Hello Paul. Well aout a month ago I had to disconnect the throttle connection. Kinda like it better this way. Today went out for a cruise was working fine then the cruise would not engage or set. When I got home did the diagnostic test. All check out well. Took to test. Still the cruise comes on but will not set. Any ideas? Thanks RSC
Hi Robert, when you are riding and set your cruise does the green indicator in the dash stay lit? If it does and your cruise still does not control the speed then it could be the cruise cable on the throttle body got disconnected. If the green indicator light does not light up while riding then it is probably a brake light switch vibration issue that cancels the cruise while in motion. Check the sensitivity of both brake switches. Maybe one is too tight which will intermittently turn on the brake light and cancel the cruise. Let me know what you find.
@@PaulPomerleau Hello Paul. Sorry I have not gotten back. In reading your response, I little confused. Reason being, I did disconnect the throttle cable under the tank. When I did the initial test, found out the throttle was the issue. Well that worked fine, like it better that way by using the brakes to disengage the cruise. Anyway, since then the cruise went out again. As mentioned I did the self diagnose again and all checked out but it wont "set". Also as you asked, the cruise indicator does light up. Also, I connected the throttle cable again to see if that would help and no it didn't. Since then, I got a manual type of cruse control on the throttle which has the adjustable screw to hold the throttle in place. However, I still want to get cruise back to like it suppose to be. If you can assist with an idea, it would be greatly appreciated. In the meantime, I will scroll on other entries you have here perhaps... thanks RSC.
Key is on? Run/Stop in Run position? Red LED on control panel turns on? What does the dash indicator do when you try to go into diag mode? Turn/Horn fuse for controller good? Chassis fuse for cruise module good? Check main connection under seat for corrosion or broken wire?
thank you very much for this video.. i have problems with my cruisecontrol but i did everything in this video and tried everything and my cc light still wont come of and go in to service/testmode. do you have any ideas on that??
The only thing that can keep the green cruise indicator light on is one of the 3 cancel switches (front brake, rear brake, throttle cancel) or a stuck control panel switch on the handle bars. Start unplugging your cancel switches one by one until the indicator light goes out. Let me know.
@@PaulPomerleau ive tried unplugging all of them and the light is still on. Tried unplugging the battery to reset it. Still no luck, the green light stays on 🤔
My light is staying on and won't go into service mode either. I changed the handlebars so I'm pretty sure my problem is the throttle. My brake lights aren't staying on so I don't think it's those. What do I do to the throttle cables to get my cruise control back?
Paul, thanks for this video. I'm still having an issue where I do not get the CC to illuminate on the dash when I go into diagnostic mode. I do see power at the CC power on switch (glows red) but never see the green CC indicator on the dash. Any suggestion as to what/where I should test or look? Thanks
@@PaulPomerleau Thanks Paul. I have a Vision. Same location for the large connector? Also trying to find the switch you speak of thats near the tank & frame on a XCountry.
I have went through and disconnected the throttle cancel switch, the speed sensor, and the break sensor but the green light stays on. is there another thing to look for?
Are you working on a Victory Cross Country? Is the light on every time the ignition is on or only when you are in diagnostic mode? There are 2 fuses for the cruise module, the main fuse is the TS/Horn one that I talk about in my video, the other one is a switched Chassis fuse right beside it. Check them both. Then I would disconnect the main cruise connector under the seat and with the ignition on see if the light is still on. Check condition of wires and make sure they are clean and dry. Let me know.
@@PaulPomerleau Thanks for the input. It is a 2015 Cross Country Tour. The light stays on only when I'm in diagnostic mode. I believe that the TS/Horn fuse is ok as my horn works. The first time this happened 2-3 years ago my mechanic lubricated something under the right cheese wedge but I can seem to locate the cruise control cable there.
That is interesting about the mechanic. You should have 3 control cables all coming from the front of the bike and connecting to the throttle body. A "Push" & a "Pull" cable from the throttle grip and one from the cruise module. It should be the one on the very bottom if memory serves. I don't know how lubing a cable will turn off the indicator light but please try it and let me know as I will make note of it for other viewers. Did you inspect the "Chassis" fuse which is the switched power for the cruise?
@@PaulPomerleau I have not had a chance to check the "chassis" fuse as it was after 10pm when I saw your reply. That is something that I'm going to do later today. Thanks
@@PaulPomerleau about the throttle cable,, when ever I was in a hard rain the cruise would stop working. I believe that the cable from the cruise was sticking.
Hey Paul, Im one of the ones that put on different bars and now my cruise wont engage, if I disconnected the throttle sensor would that bypass the sensor or would it make it not function?
The problem is the push cable that the switch is on is too tight and the switch is always on and always sending a cancel signal to the cruise module. You need to readjust the two throttle cables evenly so the switch is not on all the time. It can be done and is the best way to fix everything. You could also just unplug the throttle cancel switch and your cruise should start working again but you won't be able to use the throttle to cancel the cruise. Unplugging the switch just takes that switch out of the circuit and your cruise will function fine without it.
@@PaulPomerleau Yea, I went with 12 inch bars so there isn't much play for me to adjust the cables with... thinking about disconnecting and just using the brakes to disengage the cruise..
Yeah, I always just tap the front brakes to disengage the cruise. I hardly ever use the throttle switch. You won't miss it and you will have your cruise back.
Usually it is caused by a stuck switch. Start disconnecting them one at a time until the light goes out. Start with the throttle switch, it is the most common one to act up. Then the brake switches.
Worst placement of the cruise control ever. Putting it on the left side allows the rider to maintain speed with the throttle while setting with the left thumb. I hated my cruise control on my 2013 CCT. Polaris is still doing the same process and it is really, really dumb.
