Vintage Blowtorch Roars to Life (Good and Loud) 

Such a great application for these torches! Large amounts of heat with affordable fuel. Thanks for sharing the info.😊

These torches put out a very large amount of heat for just a few cents compaired to buying disposable propane cylinders. However, you might keep in mind that for operations like brazing, propane does burn slightly hotter than white gas and most propane torches provide a more pencil-point flame. Hope you can find a good blow torch!

Yes, the white you mentioned is what is called the inner cone of the flame. It’s generally the hottest part of the flame. When you see that bluish-white, you know that the air/fuel ratio is just right and the burner is working properly.

Good story! Lead will stick to steel, but the trick is to use a very active flux that contains acid.

@dallen612 Yeah, I still have a roll of his acid core solder. I can remember him warning me to not use it on my electronics, back in the '60's. Don't know why I hold on to some of this stuff.

Does your Turner have the somewhat rare small valve for filling the priming cup? Also, how is your Turner marked? The only marking on my torch is a large number 45 stamped into the pump side of the burner. I've always wondered who made this torch. Good luck with yours!

@@Allen-Dennis My Turner does have smaller valve Like yours . Right side marked Turner 39g. Left side marked sycamore Ill.

@@tedboots2785 Thank you for confirming the identification! Several viewers have inquired about the maker. Now I can tell them.

Glad you liked the video and good luck with your restoration!

@@Allen-Dennis Thanks. One of my grandaughters asked what that was just shortly before I looked it up on You tube. An further inspiration to restore it. Thank you.

We always pumped it when lit

You’re welcome! Thanks for letting me know.

No batteries required!

Glad you got them going! I too find it satisfying to get these Old School tools working:-)

Good luck with your restoration. There’s lots of good info on RU-vid and on the internet. That’s how I learned about restoring this one.

🤫 I'm trying to get inspired to get my great grandfather's operating again. I also got a couple irons with it.

WHOLESOME 100

Basically blow torches were used before heat gun were invented.

Same here!

Thank you! These old torches can be a powerful source of heat after a good refurbishment.

Yes, one of the other RU-vidrs said that’s how the term Lead Sled originated!

I'm sure there was no shortage of heat!

This particular torch produces a very powerful flame. Especially if you give it a good pumping after it's cleanly burning. Wish I knew which manufacture made it, but it had no name marks or decals when I got it. Just the number 45 stamped on one side of the burner.

@@Allen-Dennis There's one on eBay that looks like yours but it doesn't give the name ~ www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-VINTAGE-DOUBLE-JET-BRASS-BLOW-TORCH-BLOWTORCH/333137056726?hash=item4d908413d6:g:4gYAAOSwvSBcn4uH

If ya don't preheat them....then they really become I miniature flamethrower

A flamethrower uses liquid fuel which gives it its range.

It has definitely gotten easier:-) Thanks watching!

Good luck with it!!

I didn't even think of that, I do it all the time on lanterns and stoves.

@@SAArch82 Running through hell with gasoline drawers on...

Yeah.....I got one of these but mine is a flat tank, and I got it running after all these years. I'm just a 17 year old boy with a knack for getting old tools working again. Now I know why you don't pump it when it is running...or if the valve is open.....I pumped it when the valve was open and I got a mouthful of gasoline!😂

They had balls back in the day.

All gas pressure appliances require pumping while lit (lanterns and stoves) - it’s a standard practice. It states to do so while lit from the manufacturer’s instructions. The check valve in most appliances can be removed and cleaned during restoration, ask the thousands of Coleman Collectors that do this on a regular basis.

These old torches are great conversation pieces worth displaying!

Great information! Thank you for sharing!

You’re welcome! Hope you enjoy your torch:-)

My grandparents built a new house in the early 1960s. I was able to watch the plumbers pack the joints of the cast iron drain pipes with Okum packing. A mold was then placed around the joint and these torches or a plumber's smelter were used to melt lead which was poured from a ladle into the mold. After the smoke cleared and the lead cooled, the mold was removed. What remained was a shiny lead ring which held the packing tightly in place.

You’re welcome!

Very interesting! I believe several other important things including the wheel were first used there. Thanks for the comment.

Thanks for the info about lead sleds!

Now you can have twice the fun!

Does yours have any decals or other identifying marks? The only thing I could find on mine was the number 45 stamped into the burner on the same side as the pump. The tank had been painted and someome might have removed the decals.

Thank you! Another viewer suggested using gloves which is a great safety idea. Cheers:-)

Thank you, and thanks for the tip!

You're welcome! RU-vid is such a good way to discover things you don't see every day.

I got it at one of those Antique Malls.

Lots of good info here on RU-vid. Also, be sure and search the net for blowtorches. Even more info. Good luck!

This torch was actually my grandfathers. Unfortunately, he passed away long before RU-vid arrived but, I know he would have REALLY liked seeing this video! If you have basic mechanical skills and you are CAREFULL, you should be able to get a torch going safely like thousands of craftsman have done over nearly 100 years. However, only you really know your limitations. I'd recommend watching as many videos as possible and researching blowtorches on the internet. Lots of good info. This will help you decide about getting them fired up. Good luck and thanks for the comment!

@@Allen-DennisThats the plan, im 29 and i intend to keep as much of this knowledge alive as possible for when the grid goes down and we are all fucked.

No absolutely not

Oh my gosh, just goes to show that you should not believe everything you hear!

Maybe if they filled it with carbide but that's danger zone stuff

I had forgotten about the funny scene in the movie. The torch was probably burning something like propane that wouldn’t require the priming and pre-heating process.

You guys beat me too it by 10 months! Just watched that movie last night & went looking for contact blow tourches! Back in the daythe body guys would call'em "Lead Sleds" they used so much lead filler!

The camp fuel I was burning is pretty much the same as gasoline. I read on Wikipedia that when burning in air the theoretical maximum flame temperature is 3880 degrees F for gasoline and 3596 degrees F for propane. In actual use the the temperature for a gasoline blow torch will be more like 2400 F. Most of the torches sold at hardware stores are made to use propane.

interesting🙂 was given one for a b-day gift and have been workin on getting it going👍 watched your video to learn how to fire it up! thanks for sharing this friend👍

You're welcome! Glad I could help.

I have one of my grandfather’s rasps. Probably what he used to shape the lead body filler after applying it with this very torch. Good old days:-)

Thank you!

Thank you!

Do some research before dumping fuel in it. Many of these torch companies made different models and some used kerosene. And the gas burning versions are similar to an old Coleman gas lamp or Coleman gas stove which were designed to run on what they used to call "white gas". The part that converts the liquid to gas vapor is known as a "gas generator" and many have a fiber material packed inside a tube. Older cars ran on leaded gasoline and that lead in the gas would clog most of these "gas generators". The "white gas" is no longer available at gas stations. I haven't seen it since the early 70's here in Iowa. The gas station I worked at kept a tank of it for people that still had "white gas" stoves to cook on and some still had "white gas" portable room heaters. The unleaded pump gas for modern cars may work in some of these old torches but it's not something most of them were ever designed to burn. Kerosene versions are going to need kerosene or you could use what's known as "lamp fuel" in them. "Lamp fuel" is a more refined version of kerosene and comes in different colors and smells less obnoxious than truck stop kerosene. "Lamp fuel" is often sold in places like Walmart in the camping section next to the kerosene lanterns. They make it in different colors for use and display in the older style glass kerosene table lamps. Some places sell replicas of those old indoor kerosene lamps and often carry the colored "lamp fuel" to go with the lamps. Kerosene will clog a torch designed to run on "white gas" and I suspect that "white gas" will burn too hot in a torch designed to run on kerosene.

Glad you were able to see the video!

@@Allen-Dennis Thanks. Since I was a kid I always wonder how do people use this thing.

You're not the first! Hope you enjoyed the video.😃

Around 2400-2500 degrees F according to what I've read. Camp fuel and unleaded gasoline are what is commonly used for fuel. Temperatures would be very similar because their composition is nearly the same except for additives.

​@@Allen-Denniswhat about waste engine oil?

No, it is not volatile enough.

You’re welcome!

Thank you!

Yes, the lower cost and convenience of disposable propane tank torches drove these old "Steampunk" beauties out of the market.

Yes, you can use regular pump gasoline. I'd stay away from the higher grades as they contain even more additives not required by a torch or stove. I prefer the camp fuel because it does not smell nearly as bad as unleaded gasoline and will not go stale or turn to varnish nearly as quickly.

@@leonardschmitt Thank you!

Yes, the fuel dispenser for the pre-heat is a nice feature. Makes this torch sort of unique. I really wish I could have identified the maker. In regard to explosion, when you work with pressurized gasoline, you are always concerned about fire and explosion. Safety is paramount when operating any type of torch. Wear eye protection, watch out for bystanders, work a safe distance from flamable materials and be sure equipment is in good condition. And, always have a fire extinguisher handy..

@@Allen-Dennis Having a fire extinguisher nearby is a must. Peace

If you are able to find the model please let me know. I actually just purchased a blow torch that looks almost exactly the same as yours. Unfortunately it didn't have any markings in order to identify it. Love your video! I hope to restore mine to as good as yours!

Hi Alan. Thanks for the offer, but I'm keeping this old torch in the family. You might try looking for vintage blowtorches on Ebay.com.

@@Allen-Dennis , really appreciate your honest respond. Thanks a million for your time and thanks for the great suggestion.

you can get new liquid fuel ones on amazon

@@Captain_Char Good to know! The refillable torches are very economical and provide lots of heat.

@@Captain_Char , thanks a lot man, found it on Aliexpress.

It certainly does! There are also stoves that operate much the same. A very practical system:-)

Loosen rusty nuts and bolts, stripping paint, soldering copper pipes and other metal, and heating steel to make it easier to bend.

I’d say about 3 minutes, give or take depending on temperature and wind conditions.

Like they say, boys will be boys....Fortunately, it was only the back yard. I'd imagine most of us have had some close calls and hopefully learned some good lessons.

These torches don't explode because there is no ignition source available inside the fuel tank. However, with a defective torch there is a very real danger of fire and injury if there are any leaks where fuel or fuel vapor could escape and be ignited by the pre-warming flame. Before lighting, these torches must be tested for leaks under pressure and any leaks found must be repaired. Leak sources include the burner-to-tank pipe threads, seal for the pump to tank, pump piston, check valve in the pump and the packing for the control valve(s). To be completely safe, some people use water for leak testing. Do more research and learn all you can before lighting. Good luck and be careful!!

@@Allen-Dennis Thank you very much these tips. Yes, the importance of testing the equipment for leaks prior to using, similar to how you would check the fittings on a B.B.Q / tank with soap and water.

Liquid fuel is forced by pressure from the bottom of the tank via a wick in the dip tub. The dip tube connectes to the pipe nipple on which the burner is mounted. CO2 could provide pressure, but it would need to come from a regulated source as I don't think the tank could handle the approximately 850 PSI pressure in a CO2 cartridge. I would guess that when pumping with one's thumb, 50-60 PSI would be the about max produced. I once saw a torch that had a metal Schrader valve installed. This would allow a bicycle pump or air compressor to quickly pressurize it.

@@Allen-Dennis Yeah, I did say 'rig a system', I felt that implied a regulator. I didn't look up the number, but I knew 'way too high for a blow torch' had to cover it.

There is no asbestos on the external working parts or inside the tank of this torch. However, it's possible that asbestos might have been used in making the valve seals. The seals are located where the valves enter the burner and are held firmly in place by tightening the retaining nuts. The seals are very small and well contained so there shouldn't be any exposure. If you are concerned, you could replace the old seals with new ones made from high-temp, asbestos free packing material. Good Luck!

Dennis Allen thanks for the information about Asbestos I also like to rebuild Coleman lanterns I really appreciate that you got back to me thanks.

Asbestos is only dangerous when it’s friable, meaning small particles can get in the air. Even if asbestos gaskets were used there isn’t enough there to cause any harm. But you could wet them with water to be safe if you want. I’m professionally trained in this subject.

Very good info about asbestos! Hope lots of viewers see it. Thanks for sharing.

There’s no asbestos in these. The seals were made out of leather.

No welding, but you can use it to silver braze small parts.

I would think so. Just use caution and move the flame around so as not to over-heat one spot. The area to heat is the lower surface of the burner where the vaporizer is located. Because a torch is more intense than the small flame in the bowl, the pre-heating time would be less. You could probably open the blowtorch main fuel valve in half the time and get a nice flame instead of a stream of burning fuel.

@@Allen-Dennis thank you I was just thinking about how it does what it does, on another note if a specified temperature is required or ideal could you also use an electric coil that can be regulated?

A coil might work if the electrical insulation could withstand the heat.

I've been repairing engines and carburetors for many years and already had the materials for making the parts. The seal for the main valve shaft was made by twisting teflon plumbers tape into a string. This string was then wound around the shaft, packed into the valve body and contained with the packing nut. You could also use commercial graphite string packing available at hardware stores. The seal for the cap on the pump was cut from gasoline proof gasket material using hole punches. A larger punch was used to cut the outside diameter and a smaller punch to cut the opening for the pump cylinder. The main pump piston seal was made by cutting a disk from a piece of 1/16" thick leather. The leather was soaked with oil and hand-formed over a metal rod to form it into the cupped shape that was required. The pump had a check valve made from cork. I used a small hole punch to cut a new seal from some 1/8" thick cork gasket material. Good luck with your rebuild!

Don't know about the value of using lead for vintage auto body work, but the big soldering iron would be great for copper gutter work, galvanized sheet metal projects or heavy gauge wire soldering.

Bill Hines was his name. Leading is an art. It’s a PITA to work with and paint. Some hot rod/ custom guys still do it but it’s a dead/dying art. Gene Winfield has some tutorials on Eastwood out there too. If you had a car finished in lead and a car finished with Bondo (both done by professionals) it would be really difficult/impossible to tell which was which. Lead is more durable though, especially around seems, door edges, etc.

Around 2400 degrees F.

I do not know which blowtorch is best. However, in the USA, Turner torches have a good reputation.

@@Allen-Dennis I will keep that in mind Dennis. Peace

Yes, Coleman fuel is actually what is burning in the video.

Please read the full description of this video. There are some details you might be interested in. Also, is the model number on yours stamped on the burner, tank or is it on a decal? Have fun with your research!

@@Allen-Dennis its stamped on the burner.

@@markp8006 OK, Thank for letting me know!

Back in the day when these torches were the main source of portable heat, leather, cork and special papers were the main sources for seals and gaskets. These material worked very well if used properly. For your new leather seal, I would recommend coating it with some wheel bearing grease before installing. This will help it seal better and keep it flexible. Before lighting, leak test the torch while under pressure with bubble soap or commercial leak detector. Good luck!

I have read that the flame temperature of these torches is around 2400 degrees F.

I'm not familiar with the M.W. & Co torches, but I found reference to a Montgomery Ward torch, a M-W No. 5228 Special listed on the website vintageblowtorches.com/Pages308-334Index.pdf Good luck with your search!

Towards the shut off valve. Under the burner, there is a passage for the liquid fuel where it is heated to vaporize before exiting the valve.

I know it's been a while since I commented on these old torches, but I'd like to know a few more things. I now have three if these gasoline blowtorches and I got two of them working again, the one that doesn't work currently just needs a new check valve part. My questions are: 1. How do you get an accurate temperature reading? 2. How do I know the difference between antique kerosene and gasoline blowtorches? 3. Are some of these antique gasoline blowtorches designed for specific tasks, or in other words are some designed to be used in a specific workplace, like a dentist? And 4. Where can I get wick material at? Do I just use cotton strands? (Ok so that was a fifth question but it goes with the fourth one.)

I read something about antique kerosene blowtorches having two valves. Is that the difference between a gasoline blowtorch and a kerosene blowtorch?

Assuming that the tank is adequately pressurized, it sounds like it's not pre-heating properly. When lighting the torch, be sure to completely fill the pre-heat pan and let it burn until almost empty. This heats and vaporizes the fuel in a small chamber under the burner. Avoid windy conditions as they can cause trouble when pre-heating. After pre-heating for 2-3 minutes and with the fire still burning, open the main valve VERY slowly. This is key as you don't want a rush of cold fuel from the main tank chilling the hot vapor in the pre-heat chamber. If pre-heated thoroughly, there will be very little streaming of fuel, just a small flame which you increase by slowly opening the main valve. As the torch flame burns, the burner gets hotter allowing you to increase fuel flow for max heat. Use fresh unleaded gasoline or camp fuel. Less volatile fuel can cause trouble. The orifice that sprays fuel into the burner head cannot be too large. Probably no more than .010" - .015", about the diameter of a bristle on a common wire brush. Too large of an orfice can overload the pre-heat chamber. For more instructions, see my reply to Deep Jyoti Das below. Good luck!

I would guess about 25 minutes. I never operated it non-stop from full to empty.

Yes, definitely hot enough to melt brass which melts at around 1710 degrees F. I've read that blowtorches can reach temperatures of 2400 degrees F. However, a torch this size could only melt enough brass for a small project. I'm guessing 1 ounce max under ideal conditions. Not only is the temperature of the flame important, but also the amount of heat produced. It takes a lot of BTUs to heat the metal as well as the crucible to proper casting temperature.

​@Allen-Dennis how long does it take for these torches to do that?

The pressure in the tank will increase which will cause the flame to increase. However, because of the small size of the pump knob, it becomes very uncomfortable for the user to increase pressure beyond a certain point. Also, the pump could be damaged or the tank could explode if one did not use caution.

Actual replacemant parts are not easy to find because these torches are so old. Most people who restore them make the necessary parts from items and material available at hardware, auto part and craft stores. When I restored this torch, the seal for the main valve shaft was made by twisting teflon plumbers tape into a string. This string was then wound around the shaft, packed into the valve body and contained with the packing nut. You could also use commercial graphite string packing available at hardware stores. The seal for the cap on the pump was cut from gasoline proof gasket material using hole punches. A larger punch was used to cut the outside diameter and a smaller punch to cut the opening for the pump cylinder. The main pump piston seal (cup) was made by cutting a disk from a piece of 1/16" thick leather. The leather was soaked with oil and hand-formed over a metal rod to form it into the cupped shape that was required. The pump had a check valve made from cork. I used a small hole punch to cut a new seal from some 1/8" thick cork gasket material. Here are some videos that show how to make leather piston seals (cups). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_bwF6yHyUq0.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6xFhThdnYqE.html. Good luck!

Yes. I've read that gasoline blowtorch temperatures reach about 2400 degrees F. The melting point of gold is around 1950 degrees.

@@Allen-Dennis wow, thanks for the insight, by the way how many minutes does a full tank of that blow torch can last? I was planning to buy this kind of torch in my country for gold melting.

If operating at full power like in the video, my torch will burn for about 30 minutes after a fill-up. In normal use, the tank is only filled to about 75% as you need to leave space for the compressed air.

​@@Allen-Denniswhere did you find this information? I've looked pretty much everywhere and I haven't found anything.

@@foxfire8284 It's been so long ago, I don't recall, but probably searching the internet and watching RU-vid.

With camp fuel it burns around 2400 degrees F. It can melt copper which melts at around 1983 degrees F. However, it could only melt a very small amount of copper and it would need to be directly in the flame.

If you are in the USA and your torch looks similar to the one in the video, it was most likely designed for "white gas" which was widely available at gas stations when these torches were being made. Now days, the best substustitute is camping fuel. You could try kerosense, but you will need to use some type of wick in the heating pan, or use alcohol for the preheating flame. Not sure what red fuel is. Possibly off-road diesel? If so, I don't think diesel would vaporize sufficently.

@Allen-Dennis Red fuel is basically the same thing as white fuel but a little different And yes, I'm in the United States. Some of the video said it took kerosene Sum said gas and some said white fuel

If you get it working on kerosene, please send another reply. Below is a link to a video of a torch that user says burns kerosene. You can see that the design looks different than my torch which was made for white gas. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fS8OnK-QCGI.html@@nicklandak6882

@@Allen-Dennis cool thanks

Yeah, the only markings I could find on this one are the number 45 on the pump side of the burner head. Maybe another viewer will be able to identify it.

@@Allen-Dennis yep same here

I’m no expert, just know what my grandfather taught me about using his blowtorch. I’ll share that here. Most vintage blowtorches have leather pump pistons. They should be oiled regularly with 30 weight motor oil. To oil, raise the pump handle and apply about 3-4 drops of oil to the pump rod. The oil will flow down the rod to the piston. Filler caps usually have a small vent cut into the retaining threads. The purpose of this vent is to slowly release air pressure from the tank before opening. Always tighten the filler cap firmly before pumping. Best results are obtained when the tank is about 1/2-3/4 full of fuel. For fuel, Coleman or Crown camp fuel and Regular Unleaded gasoline are recommended. I prefer camp fuel because it does not smell as bad as unleaded gasoline and will not go stale or turn to varnish nearly as quickly. These torches must be tested for leaks and any found must be repaired before lighting. To use the torch, fill the tank to about 2/3 full and pressurize with about 25-30 pumps of the hand pump. ONLY do this operation outside, out of the wind and away from anything flammable. Having a fire extinguisher available is also highly recommended. There is a small pan under the burner assembly. If the torch has a smaller valve, slowly open it, fill the pan, then close the valve. If no small valve, carefully fill the pan with torch fuel. Light the fuel to preheat the burner. After a 2-3 minutes, make sure the torch is pointed in a safe direction and slowly open the larger main valve. Most likely, a stream of burning fuel will spray forward until the fuel is fully vaporized. In a minute or so, the flame will go from a skinny, yellow/orange stream to a roaring blue flame. Adjust the main valve as necessary, and if desired, add more pressure to the tank for a stronger flame. To shut off the torch, close the main valve. After using the torch or to add fuel, let it cool then slowly unscrew the filler cap to release pressure. After the air is released, the cap can then be safely removed to add fuel. NEVER store any vintage blowtorch with the tank under pressure. Doing so could result in the release of very flammable fuel or vapors. ALWAYS vent the tank before storage and BE CAREFULL!

The flame temperature of these torches, (2400 degrees F) is just high enough for silver brazing. However, the flame is so large you have to be careful not to overheat the whole part while getting the area to be brazed up to temperature. You want the part hot enough so that when the brazing filler material contacts the surface it will quickly melt and flow into the joint.

​@@Allen-Dennis so why do others say that only an oxyacetylene torch is hot enough to braze with? I'm confused about this.

@@foxfire8284 They are probably considering what works best. Using fuel and air instead of fuel and oxygen provides about the minimum temperature required to properly melt and flow silver brazing material. Because of this, it's only small projects can be brought up to red heat with a blow torch. And it takes considerably longer to obtain the red color. I have silver brazed with a blow torch but the parts have been small things like narror strips of 1/16" - 1/8" steel or 1/8" - 1/4" steel rod.

Either Coleman or Crown brand camp fuel.

I've read that gasoline blowtorch flames reach temperatures of 2400 degrees F

Soldering copper pipes, silver brazing small parts, loosen rusty nuts and bolts, stripping paint and heating steel to make it easier to bend. Just about anything when you need a source of high heat.

@@Allen-Dennis is it stronger than a map gas torch?

@@Zane-It Because of it's very large flame size, this blow torch will produce a little more heat than the MAP-Pro gas torches you usually find at hardware stores. However, MAP-Pro gas can burn several hundred degrees hotter than camp fuel or gasoline in a blow torch. If you could get a MAP-Pro gas torch with a flame as large as the blow torch, then it would be much stronger. Hope this helps:-)

@@Allen-Dennis cool

Killing beasts in Yharnam

Yes. You always pump about 30 times before first lighting. The low pressure makes it easier to control fuel flow before the burner reaches operating temperature. If the tank is at full pressure before lighting, there is a good chance for a dangerous stream of burning fuel to shoot several feet, sort of like a flame thrower. After the burner reaches full heat, you can pump the pressure to the point of where it becomes very uncomfortable for your thumb. By then, the torch is roaring like in the video.

The best fuels are the ones made for camping equipment like lanterns and stoves. It is much better than automotive unleaded gasoline which is known to deteriorate much faster and cause problems with corrosion and varnish deposits. The camping fuels are also somewhat deodorized and contain rust inhibitors.

and common kerosene will do? because it also inhibits rust

@@resgatemusical.2070 I don’t think kerosene as I know it would work well in my torch. Because of it’s much higher flash point, it would be difficult to ignite in the priming pan. Kerosene might work if some type of wick was used in the pan. There might be torches specifically designed for kerosene, but I have not used one or know anyone who has. There could be some confusion in that some people might call white gas or naptha kerosene, but they are not. White gas and naphtha are more similar to camping fuel.