Always use the rigid foam because that’s what gives your door durability and no-wobble strength. You’ll also find the rigid foam keeps the door from collapsing when you tighten the window frame and door lock set.
I was going to say the same thing, but the foam he took out sure wasn't giving any rigidity. New, denser foam might've helped but he's not any worse off now without it when compared to before.
I have this styrofoam in my door which needs to be rebuilt. Either going with PolyIso or EPS, much better options. The EPS has great strength compared to the original.
I realize it’s after the fact now but all you do is run the 2x2 through the table saw set at 1 3/8”. And I use that white plastic 4x8 sheets of tub surround at Lowe’s. Has the same texture as the original door panel. Use it inside and out. Also, I used that same product on the front window cover that typical bumper pulls have.
We have that weird metal rod that rusted on ours also. I see you just chucked it and didn’t worry 😂. I think now we’ll do the same. We figured it was for adjusting the door up on down on the frame if it wasn’t square? Your door looks great. We are about to start a rebuild of a door off our 80 Trillium. The bottom half of the door was completely rotten and gone. Can’t use the existing skins because of a million holes.
Next time set you table saw to cut the width of the piece you intended to keep. Insulation batting is not a good idea for RVs. The rigid foam (EPS) is super easy to work with and provides the rigidity of your door. I usually cut it 1/2”-3/4” undersized and fill with spray foam so it glues itself in and seals completely.
Awesome video! Thank you for this, just the video I needed to decide if I would attempt rebuilding the door on my 1997 Beaver Monterey. Looks pretty doable, yours turned out looking better than brand new.
Any tips on how to build a door from nothing?? I drug an old camper home and it has no door. Very minimum water damage, I really wanna make a door for it somehow.
That may be a larger project. I think first you want to source the exterior and interior sheeting material. Some kind of sheet metal or plastic could work. The hardest part is likely going to be trim and hinges. The hinges on mine were not something standard from a hardware store.
I have a 1981 Layton; Skyline vintage travel trailer . The door is completely off but hanging by a thread. Please help me to rebuild my door . 42 yr old first time new Grandma. Sacramento Ca
I think you are right about that. I think its to a lesser degree now since the chemicals arent as potent. I'm planning to revisit this door and will change the wood out
The 'new' ACQ treated wood is especially corrosive compared to past formulas like CCA and Penta. You don't want it to contact aluminum or most metals as it is highly alkaline. I'd use a good grade of SPF lumber and use Thompson's or another water sealer on it.
Whatever YOU decide, is the right thing for YOU. I would have gone back with new solid foam because not only does the foam insulate, but it also adds a ton of support for the door to feel solid. The thin material you used both inside and out have only the fiberglass insulation to add anything for support to the sides. So the door will flex with opening it and closing it with your hand. If you used solid foam, you could have stood on the door sides and it held your weight. Been there done that... Nice project either way.
And instead of trying to shave an 1/8” off the outside (so-to-speak) just set the table saw to 1 3/8” and run your stock through. Your cut will be much easier and more consistent. Just trying to help out.
I tried this and failed miserably. My husband is SO MAD at me. The wood cutting and panel fitting into the metal piece is what got me. Have no clue what to do next
Sorry to hear that. Do you have the original frame still? Maybe try to measure the pieces from the original frame and cut new wood pieces from that. Be sure to measure the width of the door correctly and cut those pieces to fit.
This isn't the exact one I used but it's called butyl tape. www.amazon.com/XFasten-8-Inch-30-Foot-Sealing-Patching/dp/B06WLQ3WLS/ref=asc_df_B06WLQ3WLS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198072898251&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8936445931988676977&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010974&hvtargid=pla-352484993703&psc=1
A saw blade is 1/8 of an inch, so I guess you needed to shave 3/16 instead of 1/16. Had it been 1/16, you would of had 3 options. 1) Planer, which you didn't have. 2) Table saw, you'd have to set it so the boards go between the blade and the rip fence. 3) some kind of sander with 36 grit paper or less to chew the wood off down to the correct thickness. I'd advise against putting reinforcing wood strips in the middle of the door because it doesn't need them with rigid foam and with the thickness of the door, solid wood strips would actually reduce the insulation value of the door.
You will need a solid metal frame around the door. That part of the door is doing most of the work in keeping the door structurally sound. I didn't have to buy one so I didn't do much research. Likely you will have to buy the door frame as well to make sure everything fits snug.
There are 3 hinges that connect the door to the black door frame. I unscrewed the screws that were in each hinge and removed the door. The door frame was attached on the outside of the frame with roofing screws and then butyl tape underneath. I unscrewed the screws from the outside and slowly pried the door frame off the trailer with a putty knife.
I have an old 1972 or 1973 AMF Skamper M-285cb that I want to get rid of. It needs a lot of work and is not livable, but it could potentially be fixed up or used for parts. Anyone want to take it off my hands?
www.hemetvalleyrv.net/ You might try here. I will likely be buying the main camper panels from them. My door panel was in good condition so I just kept it.
