Rob Hall over at Bluegrass Bushcraft can make you a vice . They are essential for leverage. I have removed many without one but now that I have a vice I can't imagine not having one .
Hey Steve. You have another way of communicating with Jason. Google is being stupid again and deletes my Facebook and gmail link every time I post it for him.
I wonder if you could help me figure out what's wrong with my 502. The plunger is good I've checked it but it won't let me pump it up, there is constant pressure against the plunger rod like its fully pressurized from the first pump 🤷♂️ I have thoroughly cleaned the upper half but I have no way into the tank to inspect it. Any ideas what's going on here? Thanks
@doinsngoins Yes I turned it to the left before pumping it, it's even impossible to pump up with the gas cap off. Thanks for any suggestions you may have!
Hey Steve! Where do you order your 502 generators from? I think I may have screwed up the needle on mine. I knew I should've tried to take mine apart. Old Coleman parts. Com? I see I can order just the needle.
I have seen one that your method wouldn't work. I nearly destroyed it trying to remove it. Someone on Facebook designed a very simple tool to remove it with a ratchet. I plan on making one myself before tackle another.
@@doinsngoins yeah. Just remove the three screws drop in the tooled plate put the screws back in and turn it off with the ratchet. It's a simple tool that can be made from a peice of scrap. Just drill the holes to match the three screw holes and one hole in the center and use a file to square up the center hole to fit the ratchet.
Great advice. Some folks have good luck with oil filter wrenches with the 3 cam arms. Or homemade strap wrenches. If you have one, an ultrasonic cleaner does really well, but you probably don't want to dunk the whole stove in there, but you can rig up a way to hang it upside down so the parts we're dealing with are at least submerged. But the keys are what you show here: penetrant, heat, movement, and patience. I cringe when I hear people talking about magic penetrating oils that eat or break rust. They don't. They penetrate and lubricate. Things that DO eat, dissolve, or break rust, you probably need a hazmat suit to use. But the key is getting the penetrant in there. That's what tapping and heat help to do. I've had luck quenching the center male threaded part of the bunsen with ice after heating. NO BARE HANDS please. Steam from ice will still burn you. Don't ask. I have one of those counter top ice makers that make bullet shaped cubes with a hole in the other side that sit in there just right. Heating and dunking in a bucket can work too. Heating and cooling means movement. Maybe tiny movement, but movement nonetheless. But you got it exactly right. Once you get any movement at all, it's a done deal. Movement means room for penetrant to get deeper. When you heat with penetrant in there, look for little puffs coming out of the threads That means new passage ways for penetrants to get in there. Wiggle it back and forth and soon little wiggles turn to big wiggle that lead to full turns. Be patent and don't go nuts with the pliers. You can fix any apprentice marks by rigging up a way to chuck it in a drill or drill press and filing or sanding it down. You won't even know it happened as long as you don't bend the crap out of it.
Thank you , I much appreciate your wisdom and adding to the post , yes , I have no belief in penetrants being magic , some flow better than others I suppose, patience is probably my best advice, I should have added , now that you bring it up , I use a short section of dog leash that I wrap the cup first with then apply the pliers. 95% of the time these come right off for me this way . Thank you so much for participating in the post !!!! Good stuff
@@doinsngoins It's been my experience that with these, these come off really easy, or really hard. Not much in between. Good application with the dog leash. If you take an old socket extension and lop off the end and use a grinder to cut a kerf on the end, like a really deep slotted screw, deep enough and wide enough to slip that kind of strap into, that's my homemade strap wrench. If you're real careful you can still have a functional dog leash when your done. Though it may show signs of mistreatment...... ha!
@@mikemorgan5015 oh my that is a fantastic wrench idea holy cow , if you haven't featured this on youtube let me know if we can collaborate, I will do the video and give you 100% credit, that is amazing thank you for the tip .
@@doinsngoins My dad was a plumber. He showed me that trick in the 1970s. Feel free to pass it on to everyone. Make a video or whatever. I don't need credit, haha! Just try to quench often when grinding to keep the steel from getting too soft.
@@doinsngoins I have a bid on one on EBay It says parts only. 🤔. I might hit you up if I can’t figure it out but I’m looking forward to it. Thanks again
Good penetrating oil helps a lot. You have to find one you like. Patience saves a lot of money. Thank you for showing this tip to us, Steve. Stay safe and stay warm
