Isolator on an old tractor a good idea 👌 my tractor is 65 yr old with original wiring so installed one just like yourself for safety reasons 👌 great video 👍
It was a good idea to replace the earth line to a non corroded point ...BUT.. the isolating switch should be on the live side close to the battery . This is important because all of the live side is still live and potentially a cause of shot circuit fire in items like the alternator. you only need a diode failure in the alternator and the whole unit could go up in smoke. A nice neat job though.
Hi dan, i found alot of the elactrical issues with my 3095 were caused by those 2 round connectors above the engine. I cut them out and joined the wires. Help with alot of the issues. Great tractor though and sounds awesome with a straight exhaust pipe 😉
MF always had issues with poor eathing through the hard nose mounting bolts. There was a service bulletin issued in the days of the 500 series tractors to extend the earth cable to connect directly onto the starter mounting bolt to overcome starting issues. Glad to see you're keeping things original, look at a late 525 /625 combine toolbox at the top of the steps and you will see exactly the same isolator switch.
Curious you wired the switch on the earth side of the battery? If something is grounding out you will still get a parasitic drain as there would still be a circuit. Fitting on the live side would eliminate all electrical power from the tractor. I would be interested in peoples views?
if you had an electrical fire due to short and the tractor was running would switching/isolating the earth stop the short as the alternator would still be producing power ?.
Hi Dan, Enjoy your channel. Really like the hydraulic crimper, very professional. Could you give me the link or make, model etc for the crimper and the connections as I would like to buy one. Is it the same tool that cuts the cable as well as crimping it? Declan from Farming life at La Forge
Hi Declan, it's a different tool to cut and crimp, I'll put the links to everything below. Dan. Crimper www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394528845806?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=i3fs7EtBRzK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=HaBpRfveQrO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Terminals, various sizes available. www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-46-battery-fittings-isolators/c-97-terminals-connectors/p-556-copper-tube-terminals
Very interesting from my perspective as my 3070 still has starting issues. Turn the key and nothing happens. Repeatedly turning the key will allow it to start. We fitted a new starter motor which has not cured the problem.
Your fault could be in one of several places, firstly check main battery leads by connecting a battery directly to the starter motor with jump leads. This will confirm if the existing battery leads are good. If you still have issues, check the round black multiplug connectors above the engine on the LH side just under the bonnet, spray with electrical cleaner and make sure all contacts are good. Thirdly, it could possibly be that the key starter switch could be corroded internally. Hope this helps.
Same problem with my 6100 series. Could start first go but then it might just go click click click a few times before it does start. And same even with new starter fitted.
