Plastic P-mount turntables cannot compete with direct-drive turntable with an aluminum S-shaped tonearm, but that doesn`t mean they are a trash. They were designed for different population with different amount of money. In terms of sound reproduction they will still overrun most of new turntables available today.
Thank you for speaking at a volume I can hear. So many people make videos and they don't test listen to them to see if their volume is too low to hear easily on playback. Great presentation - and I like how you explained things with out talking down to your audience.
The problem is people who start on RU-vid usually don't have $400 to buy a wireless mic plus $400-$1500 for a camera plus lighting (if required). So this leads to inconsistent videos and then there is the editing problems. Mastering editing can be a huge pain and it's not like they really explain how to use the software. If you look at my older videos they are of lesser quality as I change equipment they fluctuate in quality. Thanks for your comment! Cheers! Rob
I never stopped playing vinyl since my childhood in the '60s, but always had crappy equipment. In college I finally got a turntable with magnetic cartridge, the Garrard 40B. In the mid-2000s people were dumping their turntables and you could find amazing vintage Japanese turntables for cheap. I could never have afforded equipment like this as a student. After trying out and reselling a bunch, I ended up with the Pioneer PL-570, PL630, and PL-600 which I felt had the best sound for direct drive quartz full automatics. These were manufactured between 1977 and 1980 I believe. But I will tell you that all the Japanese name brands of the time--and even CEC (not Micro-Seiki), which made the Realistic, were excellent. When you get to the mid-'80s when vinyl was on its way out, Japanese turntables became plastic junk as shown in the video. Also it may be difficult to discern between cartridges. Be aware that most companies, like Audio Technica and Shure made basically a dozen offerings at any one time which they rebadged over and over with different model numbers.
I have an early ,1970s Thorens TD 160 and a mid 1980s Thorens TD 318. Both belt drive. 160 is completely manual and 318 is auto lift. Both are high quality Swiss/ German made TTS. Highly recommended.
I have an old sears rebranded audiotechnica, direct drive, linear tracking, auto stop. I think its from the 80s. I bought it used about 10 years ago. I'm actually very happy with the way it sounds and the cartridges are still affordable. At this point the table has sentimental value. I wonder if it damages my records though.
Excellent video. I have a vintage Kenwood KD 2000 turntable, I notice sometimes I hear distortion in one speaker, I notice if I move the rca cable that is hook up to my vintage Marantz receiver it will stop, Is it cheaper to look for another turntable or replace the rca cable. The turntable is from the 1970,s.
I am new to turntable knowledge even though I grew up with records. I'm trying to put together a vintage system for my husband as a gift. I don't want to spend a fortune, but I know what he will like. I have picked out a Sanyo 1010 turntable with a Sanyo 2033 receiver. They are both from the late 70's era. Besides speaker, is there anything else I need to make this set-up work? The receiver does have the Phono input. Thanks
Nice! Wow that receiver is real old! You may want to buy spray contact cleaner (electronics) for the pots. If you turn the knobs and there is scratchy nasty sounds, the potentiometers are dirty. Pull off the knobs - spray cleaner into/around where the knob fits on - replace the knob and turn back and forth a bunch of times. Do this 2-3 times per knob. Also buy 16 gauge speaker wire. It's better than the skinny wire. Enjoy!
The early p-mounts were excellent, and for a period of time I even owned a high-end, fully auto Technics p-mount with wooden base--it was a stunning turntable and sounded excellent. P-mount was quite an ingenious development.
Realistic, made by micro seiki. Most tables were made by micro seiki or shared components from other manufacturers. Thats why all the different brands look the same.
I have a dozen or so active turntables set up, and another dozen out of rotation. All are 1972-1982 or so. My favorites are the Sony turntables, like PS-X60, PS-X7, PS-X600 from the era when Sony made great products. I have several pmount 'crappy' linear tracking turntables that are actually awesome. They are less flexible, you really can't play heavy (180gram) records on them. The cartridge possibilities are limited. But I have excellent pmount cartridges with shibata or similar grade needles (linear tracking, linear contact, line contact, micro linear, hyperelliptical, Fine Line), they all track at 1.25grams, and they just sound great. I have a few modern turntables, and they are all just awful.
I have a 1985 AR turntable that I bought new in 1985. I bought it from audio advisor for $350 including tonearm. That was back in the day when you could call audio advisor and speak with Wayne Shuurman directly.
@@robsgaragewoodworkin it was just the first iteration of the previous 1960’s models, they simply called it the ‘AR’ turntable. Only the tonearm on this one was optional. This turntable is very modifiable.
Hi Rob, are you really shure that most of the japaneese turntables are OEM-made by Micro Seiki? I always thought that C.E.C. Chuo Denki was the biggest OEM manufacturer for other big brands like Kenwood, Marantz, Mitsubishi, Sanyo, Sharp, Sony, Teac, Toshiba, Hitachi, Yamaha etc. And your Realistic looks very similar to Hitachi turntables that were made by C.E.C. Best regards from a guy who loves old heavy vintage turntables with wood plint from the 70's. I own a CEC BD-6000 and a Micro Seiki BL-51 refurbished by myself and I really don't need any new turntable like ProJect or other stuff because I am so satisfied with my old ones.....
Wanted automatic TT to go with my old Pioneer 518. Got a Technics 1600mk2 from Japan that had been serviced , tonearm assembly taken apart & restored & a US transformer replacement. Built like a tank & has suspension for platter.
Some do but most don't. It adds to the cost and some only have moving magnet EQ curves so you may still be out of luck if you buy a moving coil cartridge.
That technics is a decent turntable for beginners its a t4p system the cartridge tracking force is 1.25 grams and it still far superior to atlp60(still good beginners table).
Techniques makes some good tables but not these plastic ones with P mount cartridges. When you play an older record side by side on a decent stereo you will immediately hear the difference. I made the mistake of "upgrading" in the 80's to a plastic table and even though it was an expensive Onkyo turntable it was a huge mistake and was returned immediately. I even put the exact same cartridge on it, a Shure V15.
I still have my 30 year old BD20 and using the correct tracking force which is adjustable using a stylus force gauge and using a screwdriver to the screw in the back of the weight on the tonearm and a newer AT 85EP cartridge it sounds pretty good actually for next to no $
I definitely wouldn't agree that all "spindly" tonearms are crappy. It doesn't necessarily follow that the thicker or heavier the tonearm, the better it is. Also, three feet on a plinth are actually better and easier to balance it, giving it more stability than four. Quite a few turntable manufacturers are now putting three feet on their newer models, as opposed to four. Fluance's RT85 for one, and Pro-ject's new PRO turntable also has three feet.
If you look at the "top" turntables from Rega, Linn, Project, McIntosh, Oracle and even the top Japanese tables, they share common features like beefy tonearms and robust overall construction. I totally agree with you about the 3 feet. Happy Listening ! Cheers! Rob
I have pioneer pl-518 dd/ar hooked with a pioneer sx-650..a knowledgeable friend that swears I don’t need phono preamp? But have heard that I do need the phono preamp!? Ugh great content thanks!
The pioneer receiver is an old receiver and will have a phono preamp built in. Should also have a switch on the back for mm and mc cartridges. Enjoy your vinyl!
@@robsgaragewoodworkin one more question. What would be be better (kinda old RC cords mine seem to be little idk shorty. They work would u just cut them near the ends and replace the RC ends or would you replace the whole cord in that pl518 turntable?
I will tell you now my Technics SL-B200 turntable is my most reliable. If a record plays bad on my Duel 1228 or my Pioneer PL-10 it will probably play better on the Technics. I love them all but my Technics is the probability the best one.
Check your ground cable and RCA connections. Hum is usually caused by these. If you can’t find the issue an electronics technician should be able to fix it for you.
It’s all about the bottom line and profits for the CEO and shareholders. All the Japanese companies went plastic. I sold my old Toshiba which looked very similar to this table, “upgraded” to the new Onkyo to match my M5030 power amp, put on the exact same Shure V15 cartridge and suddenly my records all became unlistenable. It was horrible! Returned that table the next day. Then bought a Rega P3. With the bias cartridge. That was my first lesson about turntables and it was a painful one.
That plastic Technics was from the late '80s/'90s when vinyl was being replaced by CDs. If you go back to the early '80s, even their p-mounts were decent machines.
