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Always a pro. Shane I appreciate all the work you put in to your videos and all the research you do and then giving it back to the community. Thank you have a good one be safe God bless.
I’m on my first grow and I ordered the mars ts 600 and I think It’s a bit small for 6 plants so I just ordered this 5000 yesterday and I hope it’s as great as as you say 😀
It also has a larger foot print then it’s competition as the light is physically bigger. Best 4x4 for overall quality design build uniform coverage warranty and customer service and components..
Thanks Shane...this is the best real testing place in know.thanks for youre excellent work.thats saving so much money for beginners to grow👍can you testing the gcx series from greenception?
This comment is for you Shane and bit of a heads up of where I see the market heading from here. Now it's all about creating bar lights and without hot spots. However there are few lights that are able to be hung high enough and powerful enough to be able to reach very high PPFD on the fringes of the lights footprint itself. With this in mind and now taking the design of both this light and the mars hydro counterpart into consideration, with likewise the same capabilities of other lights you have tested. For instance, lights that have panels that fold around like wings over the sides to offer a full and equal light spread to even an, uneven canopy. Taking these two designs for their face value and now combining them into one cohesive design. I foresee bar lights taking a step upward and outward. By delivering the same function as these winged panels and utilizing the same concept with bars. By having say two or more bars that act like wings along the outer edges of the lights footprint. This too in combination and in tandem with their previously designed lights. As sort of a add on it supplemental lighting system. That would either attach to the original bars or stand as one cohesive unit. This would not only fill the said area with light. But also bring light into areas that were previously in the darkest corners of the plants side and lower canopy.
Hi Shane. Your channels taught me everything about lights and settings. Thank you. I have been able to pass that info on to others. Question. Is there a light that has the same coverage at 1000w or 100w at wall? Its so expensive if you want to cover a bigger area you need individual lights at way more power consumption. I could buy this and use the dimmer but there must be an option that's not overkill without having to build your own. I hope this made sense. My area is only 4.5ft high but large foot print. Thanks in advance
hey shwan ive just seen you got a discount going on. Ive thought about the Migro aray II for a long time. Thing is i absolutely have no distrust in your testing, but still the efficiency of 2.37 for the aray II pro is a mystery to me. The lamp uses only abou 2 diodes per watt and with 500mw/diode the diodes are far away from their actual efficiency capability. The efficiency doesnt add up to me regarding the hardware. ALl other lights with super high efficiency use more LEDs. Maybe you can bring some light into that mystery for me. I also know the driver is efficient...but so is every driver once you passed a certain pricepoint. Or are you not using LM301b anymore? I heard you say that in the introduction video. The page says Seoul Semi, i have no data on this diodes unfort.
Question. Seeing as most of these bar lights now use all the same parts, ie: diodes, mh drivers . Could different models be daisy chained together. Eg: a lumetek daisy chained to this viparspectre for instance?? Obviously they'd all be the same wattage. 600w daisy chained to 600w etc...
Hi Shane, thanks for your work! Could you please tell us what equipment you use to verify the spectrum of the lights? Is it capable of detecting uv and infrared? Thank you!
My question isn’t about this light but more of a general question on PPF vs PPFD. I’ve looked at the specs for many grow lights that show points where PPFD (in umol/m^2s) exceeds their listed PPF (in umol/s). How is this possible? How can more photons be measured at some distance from the light than the light is emitting in total? Ex. Mars Hydro SP3000 lists PPF = 824 umol/s but then the chart for PPFD (12” height) shows a max reading at the centre point of 1600 umol/m^2s. Can someone please explain what I’m missing???
u already said it ... umol/m²/s is not umol/s :) PPFD is measured in a sphere that captures all the light that's bouncing around, while PPF is measured at a certain spot. That's also why shane uses Total usable PPF wich is the average value of numerous spots.
Doesn't appear to be on sale in the UK though unfortunately as I want 2 of these ASAP. If I can't get then I the very near future then it's the photontek 600 Pro instead or maybe a Mars but I really want this light
I love your channel! Can you do Lux Light Meter Doggo Apps to ppfd comparison under Philips LED bulbs 2700k. Lots of people are micro growing with these and I think comparison like this would be usefull for many of them. Did i mention that i love you and your yt content?
ppfd charts at different heights..like 4 foot....3 foot plant plus the hanging height which takes it to 4 foot...led for marine fishtanks have been out longer.they have different lenses and so on..but if you want a light that gets down further than 30inches you need to use something more powerful like a 250w metal halide😅.you lot have a lot to learn
I have this light and I really like it but I can’t figure out how far away to keep it I keep getting hermaphrodite plants and the hydrometer I have hanging at canopy level reads about 81° during the day and the lights are 20 inches away at 75% power should I raise the lights more? I’m also flowering in a 4 x 4 tent
Hi Andrew, Have you done a good check for light leaks in your tent during lights off? Make sure all equipment used inside the tent has the power led covered also, it would take a lot for a plant to herm just from too much light. Thanks
@@MIGROLIGHT thank you for the reply and how far away from the KS 5000 should I be keeping my flowering plants I’m at 20 inches right now. Also I had a hydrometer hanging in the tent that I just took out because it does have a LED screen that will light up if you touch it and it never usually did by itself but there’s a possibility that the fans could bump it around and it could have lit up but other than that there are no light weeks I replace that hydrometer with a Govee with just a regular gray screen and I also have Bluetooth with that.
could more people make 2x4 lights. it seems they are all using the same frames, so they are releasing all the same light sizes. the market is starving for budget 2x4 bar style lights. highly considering just getting an array4+red.
@@smeghead7698 if you are willing to pay those prices for a 2x4 you would be better of with the kind 420 light for 2x4 it has a targeted spectrum with Deep red, IR, UVA. Highly recommend checking them out.
Seems very good, but i don’t quite understand why this one has an almost perfect spread, when other brands (like Mars Hydro FC Series) have a similar model (with that space in the middle, to prevent the hot spot), but their charts still shows a big hot spot in the middle and very weak edges. Awesome video as always Shane!
@@twentytwo138 Doesn't explain the spread difference. Light spread is only related to position, so no matter which material they are using, which diodes, which drivers... it shouldn't change much (for spread) if the positions are the same. The only thing that might change that much the spread (compared to the Vipar) is the diodes density in the bars, in relation with the space in between them, and especially the space in the middle. Vipar might have a better ''design'' in this regard.
@@Gameneuling2 Yes, that has to be it indeed... but what i don't get is why they take time to design it that way (with the space in the middle) if it doesn't work at all LOL. It's still over 1000 in the middle and 200-300 on edges. I get better spread than that using 4 cheap Aglex (White COB + R, B, UV & IR) in a 4x4.
This looks to be a upgrade for sure over their old models but I'll never go with Viparspectra ever again. Had 2 of the p2500 series and they just didnt perform well...at all. Decent veg lights but definitely not for flowering. Switched to 2 ES300 V3's and all I'll say is I wish i would have started with those lights.
@@Big_ol_bass Yes, but you won’t yield anymore with it, and you’ll potentially burn/stress the plant. 800-850PPFD is plenty of photons for indoor grows.
11 inches though. Your not going to be able to flower anything outside the actual range of the light itself. Not to mention at 11 inches, your still not even hitting 1,000 PPFD. To do this you would have to get down too 10 or even 9 inches from the plants. Which also means every bud that isn't on a level plane as the top of your canopy. Will get half the light at only one quarter the distance from the top. This is a nice even spread. But as a flagship model. They really should of wend with 650 watts of power and not 500.
@@timpage5021 yes but do you understand the inverse square law. Which means at whatever point the light is 800 PPFD. Then when you move the light or likewise any object that is half the distance from the canopy. Then you will only get 1/4 the output of the original figure. This means that while the peak buds may he at 800 PPFD. Any buds, which are most buds including those along the branches of the main bud that are only 5 inches from the canopy. Those buds will only receive around 400 PPFD and under 300 or less for any buds that are 8 inches from the top. Research the inverse square law yourself before you think about buying a light like this. To sum it up for you, if you wanted 1,200 PPFD then you would have to have the light above 8 or 7 inches from the light. At this distance you would be in danger of light burn. Plus if you were growing a stretchy sativa or OG strain. Every bud greater than 9 inches from the top wouldn't even be in PPFD flower range, receiving only 300 or less is barely veg and seedling range. All this you must take into consideration while also knowing right from the start, that nothing and I mean nothing that is not within the very footprint of the light itself ( if your plants or one plant doesn't fit directly under the light itself) nothing will ever come close to being able to flower properly. Leaving this light in a very overpriced veg light category. Now that you know that let me help you make a better choice from the very same brand. The viparspectra PS 2,500 is a very good light with 1,200PPFD + at a distance of 18inch. This light is a 2×4 panel 3,500k led light with far and inferred light. This light is only $160 or even less on Amazon on a good day. Consuming 250 watts from the wall you can buy two of them for a 4×4 and manage a 5×5 easy in veg. Not to mention the same system applies as you see with the ks series. If you simply link the cable ties back to themselves at each end and then connect your rope ratchet. Your light will be hung at either end and completely stabilized with the capability NOW? To be able canter or tilt the light left to right and remain fixed in place at either angle left or right. Then canter them inwards toward each other. Use this method to now increase the coverage area in flower by a half of a foot, while providing a robust and more typical rounded flowering plant. Covering all side and corners in equal BURN free light. I encourage you to research your own grow lights and grow ideas from a purely scientific perspective. Then using these lessons learned the method that works best for you, but this light is truly a waste of money and the messed up thing is that they know it, because they grew their business with even better lights like the PRO series.
@@timpage5021 oh and you can go higher without CO2 by the way. Most of the time the ambient CO2 is high enough. Likewise in flower under higher light intensity and temperatures from that light, 70% of plants breathing goes to keep the plants cool. So the prerequisite of having higher CO2 in the air at this time is recommended but not required to produce higher yields and trichomes. What's more important is VPD and to better understand and utilize this. I recommend debaco university RU-vid channel and his lesson on VPD. This is fundamental the key to getting the most out of your plants every time. So long as you have all your amendments or nutrients dialed in with experience under your belt and a adequate humidifier, dehumidifier, heater, and air conditioning, there is no limits so long as all other factors increase with light intensity. Vpd is the most important understanding you can have of this.
I can't see why people are hyping up this brand ( I guess there's some "influencer" out there pushing it). The fact you have to have the light less than 12in away and still not getting near 1000 is just wild to me. Seems they would be a good deal if half the price but as others have mentioned in a real world setting with plants varying heights etc this light can easily be outperformed by many others just slightly more expensive. 🤷
Growers choice is subpar quality. No name in house built in drivers no name generic LEDs. Viparspecta LM301H chips and Sosen Driver. Plus the Viparspecta has a much better uniform coverage at less watts then the ROI 680 and it’s still less money.
@@timpage5021 As a former EE that did some power supply design I can state that to assume it is a worse driver is just that, an assumption. It may be better. I agree with your conclusion. I would get the Viparspectra first.
