After the electronic trunk release stopped working, I was unable to open the trunk for about a year and a half. The problem was a broken wire that can only be accessed with the trunk open! Here's what I did.
Thank you very much! I have been fighting with this issue for about 6 months and none of the other videos were helpful. I checked this video and I checked wires mentioned and found that I had 3 of the 6 cables were broken. Fixed them and now I can open my trunk. Thanks again!
I had exactly the same problem on my 2009 Volvo S40 and just opened the trunk and fixed the broken wire with the help of your video. Thank you so much!
I followed this video today, managed to open the boot using a wire as described and the problem was exactly as described here: a broken wire in that exact place! Many thanks to you!
100% accurate and precise instructions for my 2005 Volvo S40 imported from Japan. It failed on Friday. I found your instructions that day. Yesterday i cleaned out the car. Today I followed your instructions and had perfect success.
Thanks for the video! Had the same problem on my Volvo S40 / 2006. The boot lid did not open. It took a few weeks before I crawled into the trunk lid via the folded back seats and mounted off the upholstery on the inside of the tailgate. Plugged me into the motor lock's 4-pin connector, just as you described in the video. However, I had a 12V halogen lamp in series because I wanted to reduce the current. But the lock went up and I repaired interruptions in one place in the cable trunk. Thanks again!
Yep....this happened with me today.....with the car fully loaded with plywood 850mm/1.7M ........and i had to saw cut everything in the car so i can get to the trunk........🤦♂️🤦♂️ ...... this was a bad day for me....but i fixed everything myself using this vide.....thanks for your time posting it!!!!
Thanks for your advice. Showing me how to get the felt cover off from inside the trunk was a great help. Your solution was different to mine because it must have been a different wire that was broken and I had to remove the bolts holding the latch mechanism and the plug and harness. I then forced the trunk lid open from outside and found a wire broken just where you said it would be and another two that were ready to break before long. I hope to buy a new harness tomorrow and that the car still looks like a Volvo when I'm finished putting it all back together.
Did this today. Thanks for the video :) I just fixed the cables together as I have no access to new part at the moment. It is 2005 anyway so might just leave as it is anyway. Thanks.
Great video ... common fault on Volvo S40 ... Mine said "Boot Lid Open" ...when shut .... go to the wiring loom as shown in video .... peel back the rubber and re-join the broken wire ... sorted ............ Note .. make sure the rubber grommet is secured as water will get in and you will have a wet patch behind passenger seat.
Thank you! Literally 1 week after my 2015 S60 went out of warranty, my trunk started doing this, but only intermittently. What’s really frustrating is that the system considers it open, so if I can’t shit it by running over some speed bumps at 50 mph (manual pounding on it doesn’t work), it drains the battery. 2 dealers can’t figure it out, but yet it seems to be a common issue. Pity, because I otherwise love my car.
Thank you, really informative and inspired me although it didn't work for me as couple wires exposed and touch together, it only light up the boot/ trunk bulb, what I did with my 2007 Volvo uk version. Is that I unbolted 3 screws around the lock and pushed the trunk up hard, it was finally opened, then went on with isolating wires.
Nice one man, this worked for me, don't know how I'd have ever got the boot open without this hack. This is the second time I've had to replace this in 13 years of having the car, so three harnesses in the 16 years since the car was built, seems like the average life of the harnesses are only 3-4 years because I'd already done two bodge fixes on this one. Fortunately with the first harness replacement i was still able to open the boot, I think it was the registration lamp wiring that failed that time, but bought a new harness rather than a bodge fix then because car was still fairly new and didn't want to risk boot switch failing later. I noticed elsewhere that on the more upmarket Volvos there is a slot for the keyblade near the registration plate lamps to manually open, it's really annoying Volvo didn't provide this feature on the S40 because UK models also lack the internal pull release... one of many bad design/build decisions made under Ford's stewardship. Given the acute bend stress on these wires each time the boot is opened or closed, simply using thicker wires might have avoided the issue altogether. As it is, the high failure rate of this assembly and others on this model makes Volvo's sustainability mantra sound a bit hollow. A few notes: 1. Theres a hidden spring latch, i think just off-centre, at the top of the grab handle (from inside boot) that you have to press down with a thin blade to remove grab handle, if you just try to prise it out with force you will snap the lugs at the bottom (this may be a modification in later vehicles). 2. I had a few falsely triggered alarms a month or two before the switch failed, this may have been advance warning a wire was nearly severed. 3. The clips you remove from the trim panel will probably never fit securely again so you may have to renew. 4. If you're replacing the harness, for some strange reason two of the clips that fasten the harness into the boot have a simple push-release construction but the others don't. The latter are an absolute pig to remove and I resorted to cutting through some of them with a sharp blade. 5. A few people mentioned that shorting the connector wires (1 and 4) only worked once so once the lid is open it's probably wise to repair or replace the harness. If you don't and can't reopen i wonder whether running the engine would reset things?
I just love how accurate u r. Im a woman who hasn't even changed a flat tyre and I managed to follow ur instructions so easily and now my boot works perfectly!
Thanks, bud. I've got the same issue - sort of. My started with the "Boot Open" warning text. After a bit of fiddling, I have three wires completely broken and the last two completely exposed. Lucky I had the trunk open at the time. Problem for me is all the wires are black in my loom (go figure), so that's going to keep me busy figuring that all out. Appreciate the video. I see a lot of S40 owners have this issue. I think the design of the loom and cheap wiring are to blame.
Hello my friend, i have the same issue, i also have black wires with the "Boot Open" warning text, how did you fix the issue? I REALLY appreciate the help🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
@@oOMetalManiaOo I had to take that part of the loom out. I cut the rubber where you can see it pinches (you can normally see from the way the rubber housing is crimped). Use a surgical blade / craft knife and cut longitudinally (very carefully). Then I worked out from the break of the wires which one matches with which. You can kinda see from the way the plastic is cut / sheared. Then I soldered them with a short piece of bridging automotive wire to take off the stress when the boot is closed. Hope this makes sense. It was quite a fiddly operation. Make 100% you get this right before closing the boot else you'll lock it and it's a pain to open from the seats. (Unless you have the pull tab / strap in the newer models). Best of luck.
Thanks great video. This is the best kind of video. Straight down to business. The tip for removing the handle at 0:58 was essential. I used a bent paperclip with a piece of insulation tape around one end to bridge the connections. Strange what happened to me, when I bridged the connections I heard a quiet click (not as loud as it should be). I bridged the connections a few times and had the same result. So I fired up the engine to see if that would help. As soon as I fired up the engine there was a fit of clicking from the boot and then I was able to open it. I think the grease on the mechanism had dried out and it was sticking. I freed it up and tested it with a screw driver and it was all working fine. The loom seems fine too so I'll see how it goes. Also I only broke one clip so that was a good result. Best wishes.
Well that optimistic fix lasted about a week before the problem re occurred. I bought a new wiring loom from Volvo (pretty cheap actually) and set about fitting it. The boot wouldn't open when I shorted the connections this time, however, disconnecting and reconnecting the boot loom from the main wiring loom brought it back to life and it opened. Inspecting the old loom revealed some exposed wires in the rubber hose that takes the wires from the boot into the car. I believe these were shorting out on each other which was causing the problem. I replaced the wiring loom and it all seems to be working now. It's a pretty easy job that anyone can do. Top tip, fit the rubber hose bit first, feed the wires through and then put that in place as that won't fit through anywhere.
Thanks so much, and what I did is I removed the cable from battery and accidentally closed the trunk… so no power to open the trunk anymore… my question is what was the voltage requirement of the locker ?
Will it fix it? My 2001 Volvo v70 hatch lock stayed locked a yr ago I had to wretch on it to open up I wash private house cleaning and since then it hasn’t worked it been unlocked
If only I had seen this video 2 years ago Iv change my button unit on the back of the car a I thought it was that aswel as my solenoid also the cars battery and all the fuses to try eradicate this problem my next move was to take to the garage and get new wire loom aswel as boot latch but thankfully after watching this ima give this ago first surly it’s got to work fingers crossed 👍
Hi I followed the video it worked. Managed to open the trunk. But couldn't fix the cables. While busy with cables I locked the lock with screw driver to check. Since cables is not fixed I tried to open by same method that I did from inside with a piece of cable but it doesn't work now. Trunk lid is open but lock is locked lid doesn't close at all. Any idea how fix. Please
I haven't had my open in 3 years I watched another video before this one and it said to buy this part so I took off the panel above the license plate undid all the screws put the new part in and that didn't fix it so I'll try this
This seems to be a very common problem with volvos, Iv a 2008 Volvo s40 and this is the second time over 4 years that the boot stopped opening, (handy). Would have thought Volvo would have sorted the problem out before the 2008 models. What a fuckn night mare. After I paid a lot of money 4 years ago to get the wire fixed, I'm going to try it myself this time. 🤞🤞. Also I see 10 people disliked this video, they must be experts from Volvo
We just bought a 2012 volvo s60 t5. We could not get the trunk release to work. Then we figured out, if the glove compartment is locked, it will lock the trunk valet setting
So for anyone working on this in 2023: the trick worked for me, but only once. I managed to open the trunk in the evening and thought “Great, now I can close it up again and repeat the trick in the morning to work on the wiring”. Well, that was a bad idea. The next morning it only made sounds and didn’t open anymore. In the end, I fixed it by getting a small 12v scooter battery, unplugging the trunk loom from the main loom and and sticking the negative in the 1st terminal and the positive in the 2nd (so not the 4th), similar to what the video shows. Then it opened right up.
I have a 2009 Volvo S40 I don't seem to be able to jump the wires. There is Power to the Outside Switch lights about the License Plate. The FOB does nothing, I changed the Battery and Tried a Variety of Programming but none of that worked... I think there's power going to the Plug because the Trunk Open Light Comes On when it's Disconnected and Off when the Plug is Connected. Nor was I able to Jump it at the Button Plug- which has 3 Wires. I think I checked the Correct fuse.. (I believe it's #86 - 5A) Maybe I'll have to try it again.
Hi, Trunk of my S40 2006 model stuck I tried this trick and also few other videos bu no help, can you please tell me where Fuse located for trunk? Where i live elcterician asking for big amount to fix it and i would like to give a try before going to him :)
Does anyone have any tips or tricks on how to go about removing the rubber housing, exposing the wires and then putting the fixed wires back in and re-installing the rubber housing? I'm about to give this a try and don't want to mess that part up... Thanks!
So how are you opening the trunk by shorting the cables for the button switch if the cable leading to it were broken? This would only open it if the cable were intact and the button switch was broken. You'd need to short the cable before it leaves the trunk for the hatch or am I missing something? Maybe your gnd is what's broken and you are using another gnd or somth?
saw the whole video. interesting. i have a C70 where there is no wire like that, you can hear the trunk releasing when i open it from the drivers side button but man, it won't open. gonna have to look into it more
Thanks for posting but not much of a car guy or trust to do it myself...also can't really orient myself with where this is at in the video. Any suggestions I can try or do I need to take it to a local mechanic? Any idea for price if I do that? My problem just started yesterday for the first time. Thanks!
I have no idea what a mechanic would charge. It's only a 5 minute job to fix. I assume a mechanic would change the wiring harness instead of just fixing the broken wires.
@@brettmartin4912 the wiring harness is the problem so yes the problem would be fixed. That is assuming you have the same issue as I'm showing in this video, which is very common.
Hey . I did exactly as you said and found a broken wire. I connected them together with an electrical connector. Closed the boot and opened it again. Put back on all the covers.closed it .. and it wouldn't open again. Did i blow a fuse possibly? I can still open the boot with touching the wires inside the plug from the inside but that's it. Can anyone help please ? Need this boot for work
I'd start with trying to locate the potential blown fuse before buying any. If your fuses are intact then it must be shorting out elsewhere.. My guess would be the button itself if using a wire inside the connector still makes it open... Or your electrical connector let go maybe?
@@diybyday5843 the connection is perfect and tight. And the boot stil opens when I use the wire method you showed in the video. Has to a fuse so ? And they're not that expensive I think. Fuses are under the glove box In the s40? Or somewhere in the dash
If the wire method still works it doesn't sound like a fuse to me. If a fuse was blown the power from the battery would stop at the blown fuse and the wire method wouldn't work either. I'd guess the button itself isn't working properly. Cant hurt to look over the fuses anyway.
I'm not sure, Im not a Volvo tech or anything. Not sure how long they have been using this set up for.. I would hope not since 96 without fixing this seemingly common issue.
I am having the same problem on my 2011 S80 ( But ) I can't even fold the rear seats down to get into the trunk, because the release switch to fold the seats is only accessible from inside the trunk. ( Genius design )
Not all problems similar with similar results have the same problem or the same solution. Great if it works, not so great finding the problem as there are too many different Volvo locks, some made by Ford and those have reference numbers or part numbers that can't be referenced to a Volvo so you need the year, model, engine size and whatever else a dealer needs including the VIN number to find the right replacement part or parts.
Hey man, great video and thanks for the walkthrough. I'm going to try this later but I'm curious about how you got the trunk opened. When you pressed in the wiring, did the trunk open by itself?
The trunk opened by itself because it activated the electric motor that opens the latch. Essentially its just bypassing the button on the trunk and directly powering the latch motor. Goodluck! Hope this works for you!
