I LOVED Tap. Beacon is lighter, more accurate, and also has no moving parts. I am pretty happy with it so far, but it's only been installed for a week. Time will tell if I have any issues.
@@oldguymeltsplastic can you suggest me a hot end that would go well with this combo I want to print pla+ , 95a tpu and abs with layer height of 0.1 0.2 0.3 and nozzle diameter mostly a 0.4 mm and want to try 0.6 mm
Those wires without strain relief give me (not good feels)... other than that this may be my new tool head once out of beta. (OR a variant of this). I am not sold on tap and KP is unreliable at times. So this option may be what I move towards eventually.
I have replaced the EBB36 mount plate with another one that has a longer stem that turns 90 degrees to the left and has more zip tie holes, so strain relief has now hopefully been achieved.
is there a particular reason you prefer this hotend over the xol2 for your 2.4 ? i'm scratching my head over this. Btw the beacon is amazing ; great job
I did try to assemble a Xol2, twice, and both times I ended up breaking the fan ducts. The first time was because my cheap Winsinn fans have different physical dimensions than the fans the Xol2 designer used. On the Armchair Engineering Discord server, I was advised to switch to GDSTIME fans instead, and still those ones didn't fit well. When I mentioned this a second time on their Discord, I was advised to purchase 12V Delta fans instead, as those are the fans that the Xol2's designer used. I have never had a similar problem with the Dragon Burner or Rapid Burner toolheads, regardless of which 4010 blowers I mounted to them. The Xol2 requires 3 different diameters of bolts/screws (M2, M2.5 and M3), and is a bit of a pain to assemble properly, with several different parts with rather small relatively fragile features. The Dragon Burner and Rapid Burner currently only have a few large boxy parts, that assemble using M3 screws, and maybe M2.5 depending on which hotend you mount to it. Some people don't like either toolhead due to aesthetics, but I just want it to work well. I haven't weighed the Xol2 parts to compare it against the Rapid Burner for weight savings, but any additional weight is more than offset for me by simple convenience.
@@oldguymeltsplastic well that's a detailed answer ! thx. i have 2 V0s with Chirpy's toolheads so i think i'll fall into this project too :) glad to see you're participating into the "alpha"
Hi Steph I am wondering where you found the guide for installing the V2.4 X axis toolhead mount. They don't go into detail on the install of the alternate mounts on the rapid burner git hub. I think I have all the parts printed including the probe carriage. I am going to go with a beacon as well. It seems like I have to attach the x mount to the hot end mount first with a single screw in the top then attach to the mgn12 rail. Does the single screw just allow you to pivot the part to access the other 2 MGN 12 mounting screws from the front? Then feed the belts in etc then secure the other 2 screws connecting the x axis mount to the hot end mount. Seems like a not very ideal way to attach this please let me know if I am looking at this correctly.
I am not a print quality perfectionist. I "settle" for features, convenience, and time savings, while printing parts that for me are "good enough". Beacon has no moving parts to add resonance, works well over USB, and is the most convenient Z probe I have used. I had the Omron induction, then an Unklicky, then Tap, Beacon, and because it supports running over CAN Bus, now Cartographer, which is a Beacon clone. The eddy current scanners work for me and how I want to use my printers. As always, YMMV.
I keep changing things up. Currently routing to the umbilical to the A motor assembly, but am going to be changing that soon to route it up to the exhaust, but then through the extrusion channels, and the down to the electronics bay.
As you can probably tell from my videos, my V2 is a bit of sandbox for me to try out stuff, and so is constantly in flux. While I am very happy with the lighter toolhead, I have since switched out the ultralight gantry in this video with the original Misumi 2020 extrusion, and now have a new mid-weight "reinforced" X gantry that is working well. My Input Shaper graphs still aren't fantastic though, so either I need more tuning, or maybe a mod to move the V2 to an AWD flying gantry, which should also help with that.
It will largely depend on which fan models you use, however the Stealthburner has a single 5015 blower fan for part cooling, and the Rapid Burner (and also Dragon Burner) uses dual 4010 blower fans. All else being equal, the twin 4010's should provide more CFM of raw cooling than a single 5015.
I used a kitchen scale to weigh the toolhead parts of both the Stealthburner toolhead with Tap, and the Rapid Burner toolhead with Beacon. Stealthburner was 480 g Rapid Burner was 300 g I am not a CFD expert, but the Rapid Burner's twin 4010 blowers should offer more performance than the Stealthburner's single 5015 blower. I have never had any bridging/cooling issues on my V0, where I have had the Rapid Burner installed for months now, but I have only ever printed in ABS on that printer.
What is the variant of the sherpa mini that uses a screw instead of a pin? I've been looking for how that can be done, but haven't seen it done outside of your videos showing it. I might try to do a similar configuration on my next printer.
Not sure which screw should be a pin: - 3 horizontal screws through the front housing, one to hold the tension arm, and two that secure the front housing to the core - 2 horizontal screws to fasten the base of the core to the rear bracket - 2 horizontal screws to attach the pancake stepper motor - 2 vertical screws to attach the whole assembly to the toolhead below - I guess the tension arm knob also counts as a horizontal screw?
@@oldguymeltsplastic The one that the tension arm pivots on seems to have been replaced with a pin (3mm diameter x 20mm long) in the latest version of the sherpa mini - I guess it might have been a screw previously.
Yeah, after your first comment, I had another look at the BOM, and absolutely it calls for a 3 mm pin there. Not sure how I missed that, but I'm also not sure why a pin should be needed for that pivot point that rarely ever pivots much. I asked a question about this in the Annex Engineering Discord server, and will report back if I get an explanation. If using a bolt there instead of the pin causes issues, I'm not seeing it!
Response from a user on the Annex Engineering Discord Server: "Pin or shoulder bolt on pivot is the proper way and annex tends to do stuff properly. A bolt will likely suffice." So, it may or may not matter to your printed part results. Venture at your own risk.
I felt guilty for not following the Sherpa Mini BOM and not using the 3 mm pin. I have since finally sourced some 3x20mm pins, and "fixed" (there was nothing wrong with them) my two Sherpa Minis on my V2 and V0, and that's all thanks your observant eye. It will make zero difference in print quality, but I will sleep better now knowing that they are built correctly. There might be some sarcasm there, but seriously, thank you for paying attention and pointing my mistake out!
Do you mean during the Quad Gantry Level process? Good question, I haven't tried breaking that down yet, as it's working, but I think I understand what you're getting at. I'll ask around on the Discord servers.
@@travistucker7317 I just posted about this in the Annex Engineering Discord server to ask the experts. What you are saying makes sense, but it's working as is, and I am not sure how I could change the QGL to remove the Z moves.
@@oldguymeltsplastic i would imagine there's a z variable probe raise height or similar as if you were using a touch probe. Maybe you set it up as if it were a touch probe and set that as zero. I've never looked at qgl, but will tomorrow
@@travistucker7317 The good folks on the Annex Engineering Discord server set me straight. Check out my latest video for an example of the updated QGL functionality with the Beacon.
I haven't pushed my speed limits yet. Honestly, I am still struggling with general MCU/toolhead PCB stability and print quality/extrusion/clogging issues. Once I have those licked, I may then push the speed limits, although I have no desire to compete with Vez3D or 247Printing. Some middle ground speed with decent quality will be the goal. I do have my A and B motors running at 48V on 5160HV drivers, the lighter gantry, toolhead, and I also just received my aluminum CNC XY joints to cap the ends of the X gantry which I have yet to install, so I should be all set for decent speeds when I get around to them.
@@Mehecanogeesir I think at least some of my hotend issues are possibly heat creep, as it will print fine for a job or three, then there's a clog in the heatbreak. I have gone through almost every CAN Bus toolhead PCB since switching to CAN Bus last fall. At least two PCBs had components just fall off the board when their solder joints failed. One gave me undervoltage errors, and yet another would just randomly shutdown after and hour or two. I am currently on my 6th toolhead PCB.
@Old Guy Melts Plastic omg I'm so sorry. Now I consider myself lucky. Still have my first EBB36 working, but I don't print too often. Getting things set up was a bitch though, used teaching tech's guide at the end, but needed to do several steps a few times and there was a blue led that stayed on where he said it should be off, but other than that it's working. For heat creep, make sure your hotend fan is blowing up to par. Sometimes the fans are weak or get weaker over time and need to be replaced. The wiring for the fan should be fine since you're using a toolhead pcb, but you can still move your toolhead around manually with the fan on to check that there aren't movements that cause a wire to break. If your fan is good, you may want to switch to another extruder/hotend setup.
@@Mehecanogeesir last night I swapped out the Rapido UHF Plus for a Revo High Flow, and have had a half dozen consecutive successful prints. Time will tell if that holds.
