VRX Cobra setup comparison. Power system, what's your style! 

They can definitely be upgraded to be quite tough, my BMX track vids show just how tough mine is now. But I personally wouldn't buy another because the amount I spent I could've got another X-maxx😱

La vieja maldición China, te hacen pensar que el auto es una ganga y que se puede "mejorar" al cabo de un tiempo te das cuenta que con lo que invertiste pudiste comprar un automóvil de verdad

​@albertopalos8326 you are 100% correct sadly😭😆

Thanks, I try and get my knowledge out there but presentation is not something that I find easy.

Sweet👍 Will be interesting to see if all the parts survives the setup🤔

A few people have just swapped the centre diff with a completely different brand diff, can't remember what one though.

I made a 6mm thick spacer about 30mm round from the clear plastic, then drill a hole in the centre smaller than the spring, I think 8-10mm hole(the spacer pushes down the spring once screwed down)

@@rccrazy thanks again. I will try.

Hey👋 Not sure what you mean by a sweet spot, if you mean to buy the parts you can get what your looking for basically anywhere. I do highly recommend a good esc, for your own benefit definitely avoid Surpass/Rocket, Hobbyfan and GoolRC escs. And 2650kv on 3s will be fine and will give you more top end speed, I found 3665 3500kv on 3s to be a great light weight setup as these cars a rather weak in general and the lighter you can make it the better it will be for damage prevention👌

@@rccrazy noted and thanks 👍🏽, I'll look around for the 3665 3500 kv motor.

Your running a 40 series motor in a 1/10 VRX😬 That will be super heavy and so much power, I highly recommend getting a few spare diffs!

The cobra and blast are the same car, identical parts and lengths all round and post holes are in the same spots so yes direct fit. Not sure about the Legendary nitro, I've not had any Legendary cars but I know there are different length vrx chassis, I assume Legendary has also so I think it would depend on the chassis length.

@@rccrazy well I know that the cobra chassi and the legendary is the same.they share the same chassi, suspension, swing arms, diff and many more. I didn't upgrade the chassi on my legendary. but I have vrx cobra swing arms, bearings holder back and front installed on it now. What I want to do is give it a new look like the cobra. I just love how it sit low to the ground

Yes the cobra style looks good think that why people like them so much despite them being quite weak. But from what I can see online the nitro chassis and the long wheel base chassis of the cobra are infact different, cobra is longer and has a plastic chassis the nitro has a shorter alloy and chassis, you'd probably just need to drill new post holes to fit the cobra shell.

@@rccrazy my legendary comes with a plastic chassi. It also comes with a 2s brush motor setup

Hey, you need to remove the plastic one and install the alloy one in its place. You should only have to remove the 4 or 6 screws on the underside, the part should come out with little effort. If you have any issues you can message me on Facebook and I can send you some pics to make it easier. 🤘👍

Whats up Choo! 😄 I hate to say it mate, I wouldn't recommend a Cobra unless you stay on the flat or very small jumps! The one i managed to get going kind of reliably took so many hours of modding, buying upgraded parts, plastic parts are weak, but the weakest part on these VRX cars ate the diffs! 💥🤕 Seriously, please consider something else, I know they look cool but they fail very quickly! I really don't want to be the one people blame for wasting their money by recommending a car that will fail indefinitely! Sorry again mate✌🤝

It has a 14.8 3600mah

Hey Robert, I use Youme Power 3300mah or 4500mah 4s lipos, max I would use is 4500mah👌 And parts i get from ebay.au or a local rc store called Campbelltown hobbies near Sydney I think, if you can't find them under VRX parts lookup River Hobby parts👍

No good! I'm not sure in what way they are breaking for you but I think you can get a alloy version, definitely a handy upgrade👌 I don't think I've ever broken the saver itself but always loose the e-clips that hold the spring in place. And when you say "break in 2" do you mean the V shape parts on both sides or the actual damage you are seeing?

@@rccrazy the v shape parts its like there just glued together and split on me I've gone through 4 of them amd the alloy ones also look like there 2 pieces to anything I can do to stop it, it's not like I'm crashing it but if I'm bashing and It rolls over it seems to split at the v shape, cheers:).

Oh no mate, the split is there intentionally, definitely not supposed to be joined/glued together, that is the saver as it prevents the servo from stripping out when a wheel takes a heavy impact. So all 4 that you tried are still perfectly fine, hope you didn't bin them😬 There should be a spring on top and a e-clip holding the spring in place, if you add a washer or 2 it will tighten the spring if you think it's too loose.

@RC crazy hmm I think we're talking about the same thing cause when it's split on me my wheels won't turn because the saver is moving cause it's split so it's not grabbing

So if nothing is actually damaged but the 2 separate V pieces are separating too much (servo and half of the saver moves but wheels don't) the spring may be too weak and as I said you can add spacers/washer to stiffen it. OR you may have lost the spring and or e-clip. Sorry, it's very hard to diagnose without any visual.

All good mate😅 You seem very passionate so go hard👌

Oh no! All mine failed very quickly but I did manage to get one going almost reliably with the exception of the diffs(may as well be plastic gears) they are weak! Please, never attempt to run a 40 size motor, you won't have a car left when it comes to a holt! The only one still going has a 3670 2150kv 4s motor, Hobbywing WP-SC8 120A esc and a cheap 20kg servo, but it has cost me over $1000 to make it work, alloy swingarms, hubs, carriers, carbon shock towers and more witch are all needed eventually sorry to say, plus many 6061 and plastic DIY mods, a bucket of diffs and a bucket of shafts! So sorry but that's what I have experienced with my VRX cars, maybe stick to 3s with that car. So sorry mate!

@@rccrazy appreciate the honesty. No worries. I have a brushless system which as a 60a esc (3s capable) and 3650 4pole motor but someone said it's too small. Your thoughts?

Yeah it may be too small in the way of power, your car should last a lot longer but slow! I would suggest a 3665 or 3670 between 2700kv and 3300kv for 3s and you should be able to gear up with the lower kv motor, you will need a pinion with a 5mm bore hole for these motors, 18tooth pinion is the max that will fit without modding, maybe try a 15tooth 5mm bore mod1 pinion. Check temps just too be safe, if its cool enough try a 17tooth 🤞👍

@@rccrazy gotcha. Awesome.

@@rccrazy what you think about a system of 120a ESC(2s-4s capable) and a 3670 2650kv motor?

Yes the big e-clip doesn't like staying in place.

Cheers mate, the main gears are all stock size but the steel upgrade, I'm not sure if you can get different size main gears for this car, and they have stock pinions apart for the speed car, that is a 26tooth but you need to drill out the motor mount holes. I still have one steel gear to install so I'll try and remember to record it.✌

@@rccrazy ok great thats good to know, so from what i can see is that your getting most of your power from 6cell motors and esc.

They don't need to be 6s esc unless you want to run 6s, I really suggest getting that Hobbywing WP-SC8 esc or a Max10 for 3 or 4s! I do mention in the description that I prefer to run lower kv motors with high gearing, go between 1900kv and 3000kv and largest pinion you can fit unless you feel like modifying the motor mount, you could run a 2000kv motor's of this size on 6s with the stock pinion gear not a problem! But if you do that make sure you got spare differentials😬 Make sure you get the right shaft size with the pinion gear!

RC crazy ok thanks, I’ll keep that in mind. Good info.👍🏼

@@rccrazy hey mate just reading back on this post. You mentioned you got a 26tooth pinion year. How the heck did it fit.?. Cos I just got a 19 tooth and I am right at the end of the slotted holes (top and bottom holes). , but will still need to drill it out. If you had a 26t, wouldn’t it be completely off the mount(sort of)? I’ve looked around for a wider adjustable motor mount, but they dont give you dimentions. Any advice?.

Thanks mate, do you mean the servo or the servo saver? I've not seen servos with e-clips before🤔 I just use cheap eBay servos 20kg or higher! These are good for cheaper servos 20kg JX Metal gear www.ebay.com.au/itm/RC-Steering-Gear-JX-Metal-Gear-Digital-Servo-20kg-Torque-For-1-10-1-8-RC-Cars/153966741873?pageci=6514bbdf-de66-4de8-935c-c750f64f7782 25kg Austarhobby Metal gear www.ebay.com.au/itm/AUSTARHOBBY-AX8601-Digital-Servo-25KG-Waterproof-Metal-Gear-High-Torque/153966764778?pageci=43658c25-7cb0-4b07-b899-37b8b3e1dd4c

@@rccrazy the one that sits underneath the blue bar at the front it’s got a spring with the e clip servo saver might me the name

Yeah you're talking about the servo saver. You need to mod it! Get rid of the e-clip and replace it with a 5mm thick washer or strong plastic. It needs a 10mm hole so it goes around the steering but pushes the spring down!

@@rccrazy Thanks Buddy I’ll try that you have been great help 👍

Any time! 🤘

Yes you can upgrade to brushless, mine were brushed originally. If you've not converted a car before it's rather easy, you really just need a brushless motor and esc as your already have a servo and radio system. If you get a motor larger than 3650 size which I suggest you do you'll also need a mod1 pinion gear suiting a 5mm shaft. My recommendations would be 1. A 3660 size motor around 3000kv (doesn't have to be exactly 3000kv) 2. A GOOD quality 80a to 120a esc, (Hobbywing WP-SC8 is my go to 120a esc) 3. And a few pinions for 5mm shaft, get a 13 a 15 and 17 tooth mod1 pinion. Start with the 13 tooth, if it's slow but motor is nice and cool you can gear up. If you have the same results(cool motor and not fast enough) gear up again. Repeat that process until your happy with it or the motor starts getting hot to the touch. Good luck👍

@rccrazy where could I order a brushless kit from as I'm in Australia and I'm new to rc cars

I get most of my stuff from Ebay Australia. Otherwise check Hobbiesdirect.com.au it's a great local online store and great people. If you need links for ebay they are easy to get👍

@@rccrazy could you please send the links

Good 100a esc www.ebay.com.au/itm/401784598230?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1K-W5kD7eSc6-o4rGNAWWjA75&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=401784598230&targetid=&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071421&poi=&campaignid=15984321586&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300814&merchantid=7617162&gclid=CjwKCAjwgqejBhBAEiwAuWHioE3M6xbk0s-jF0As7XPTq2mGagV30bs8AzLDcAkt8eLV57THmW0LohoCn-sQAvD_BwE These are awesome motors for the price but no Aussie sellers, this link is from Japan but a good seller👍 www.ebay.com.au/itm/334492749637?hash=item4de1524f45:g:pQYAAOSwPlZiwi0K&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0LY0%2FtzebzHvIhjXGWceI445UXN%2FY2aD1Ds2y6qghUCK0asx8Dx4xaYgOobTzNuie62Vo81%2B4DCH0gULSiGCu2eDoVXNL4rKu5nZapZheAmckzXhLucp4WDS8ayXX5UOq8ZZMuIEXs0Q1n4o%2FyPHXMmJzx0gSKxU3BsAvT3IIq6shnJFVWPP6uJkZXDsOe6G7LwPPefwUOw2GqKKTXr9hSV6YuY%2Forg8Co%2FuTdgdwPPQ0Adnc3S%2Fc7Ci91cvFOQukgrN5NYiQfFyExuvFSu9%2BLw%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5SkgIuIYg And you'll find all the pinions you need here www.ebay.com.au/itm/274627251859?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1YdNFcEZGRg2MAeY1AeaSCA64&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=274627251859&targetid=&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071421&poi=&campaignid=15984321586&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300814&merchantid=7364522&gclid=CjwKCAjwgqejBhBAEiwAuWHioKrcjEByrWvnpgm67UdYCwhSOioVTvsV0phsdmxCOWNrGaE6dHFTOBoCCB4QAvD_BwE

Hey Matthew👍 In most of my cars from 1/14 to 1/8 scale I use 500k in the centre diff if the car has one and between 50k-80k in the front and rear. The cobra I'd use 80k because any thinner and it seems to leak out quite quickly🙁 Hope that helps🤞

Thanks mate👍 Yeah I broke 5 front chassis parts before changing to the alloy one, should have got it sooner! The centre braces are custom, I made them out of 6mm polycarbonate, not something you can buy, sorry🙏

This is my newest explanatory Cobra vid explaining in more detail, also I got some new parts since that vid you watched ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6qOk_2L8vzo.html

@@rccrazy haha yeah I got the alloy one, not going to make the mistake of going through many plastic ones... Would you consider making and selling a brace? It is something I would definitely consider as you have done a good job of them

I could make some to sell but posting stuff would be the issue, depends were you live, if your im Australia then yeah not a problem.

@@rccrazy awesome.... yep I'm in Perth mate

I don't think so mate, unless you intend on only doing speedruns. The diffs can't really handle 4s sadly

Oh damn ok thanks