Two U.S. 25 cent coins (quarter dollars) tapped into the slot, will do as well as anything. I call it my "fifty cent tool". Use your Leatherman tool on the two quarters to spin the cap. Works on the crankcase oil filler cap as well.
Hey, I've seen a couple of your videos, they are awesome. Just a comment about the drain bolt washer. I think they say to replace it because it's a crush washer like on you use on regular engine oil plug. They won't look damaged but don't have the same seal if reused. I only mention it because I had a drain plug fail while on a Alaska road trip, didn't realize I had lost my drive oil and ceased the whole thing up. $2500 later I got it home.
Yes, that is true. The drain plug crush washer should be replaced with each oil change. Glad you were able to get your bike back home. Pricey, but home.
Wow! really? Was the cover on tight? I've heard of people also using a quarter or a large washer. Don't know if they would work any better or any worse than a screwdriver.
There's always a meniscal amount left whenever you change oil. You will never get it all out. And the small, tiny tiny amout that remains, will do no damage whatsoever.
I believe my service manual says 36,000 km or 24,000 miles. Each bike might list things differently. My VN1600 might be different from a Voyager or a V-Star 650 or whatever. Always check your manual.
It could possibly mean that the gears are chowing each other apart. Change the fluid, ride it for 2-3 thousand miles and change it again and see if any more metal flakes show up. If it does, take it to a shop and have a professional look into it.
Some people call it engine braking. That's when you down shift, slowly let out on the clutch, and use the engine to to slow the vehicle down. Works the same on cars, trucks, and motorcycles; anything with a manual transmission.
So, what should the old oil look like? I had a friend that just changed the drive shaft fluid on her Vulcan 1500 and the shop said that it looked 'sparkly' which means fine metal shavings in the oil. They suggested that she take it to a Kawasaki Dealer which she did, after about 1500 miles. The dealer said that was 'normal'? Is that right??
I'm not a mechanic and not an expert in any way. However, the oil should look like used engine oil. If I was seeing sparkles in my oil: I would wrap plastic wrap around a magnet and swish it in the oil and see if anything sticks. If so, take it to the shop, if they say it's normal, take it to a different shop and get a second opinion. If they say it's normal, then I would keep a very close eye on it and change it every couple thousand miles. If it continues after several oil changes, go back to the dealerships. If you're not hearing anything or feeling vibration from the final drive, then maybe it's ok. I suppose the sparkles could be from some type of oil, and the first shop didn't know that it's normal for that oil, but the dealership did. However, if I were you, I would get a second opinion from another dealership to put my mind at easy. But still keep an eye on it.
Microscopic metal shavings in oil are normal wear and tear, anything visible is a bad sign. Get a second opinion from an independent mechanic who didn't sell her the bike.
I dont want to seem as though i am calling you wring, but i change the final drive oil with my engine oil every 3500 miles. it still comes out very dark and its such a small amount i would imagine it gets used hard quickly. any thoughts?
You can do what you want. I'm just stating that the Kawasaki owners manual says to change it every 24,000 miles. Being that it calls for gear oil, it holds up to better to the shearing force demands than a lower weight motor oil.
@@ChefHikerBiker i wonder if the darkening of the oil is from heat and not breakdown? it doesnt bothr me to change the oil maybe i can skip it more often
There are a number of factors that turn oil black. Heat is one, time, metal particulates, dirt and dust are just a few more, among others. If you want to keep putting off changing the oil, that's up to you. But don't wine when your drive gears crack and break because you thought the oil should last longer. You say you don't mind changing the gear oil, then change it. Better safe than really, really, really sorry.
@@ChefHikerBiker I stated i change the shaft oil every 3,500 miles, how often to you change it? I was surprised to learn the manual reccomended 24,000 miles. that seems obsurd to me
Sorry, I read it as 35,000 not 3,500. I had the first one done right around the 24k mile mark. The second was around 50k mile mark. The video was only the third time I had it done, and the first time I did it myself, and it was around 73k.
Good morning, I have a classic Kawasaki Vulcan 1500. I would like you to please help me since a part of the cooling system was damaged and I cannot find it in Mexico. Could you tell me where I can get it?
@@ChefHikerBiker chef, thank you for taking your time to answer me, you are the best in your videos with your Kawasaki, I have a vulcan classic vn 1500 model 1999, your videos have served me a lot, thank you very much.
How could I send you an image of the part you occupy by some other means, since if you look for it where can you tell me and I can't find it and if it makes me sad since I have stopped the motorcycle if you could help me please since you have a lot of experience in Kawasaki and for me in the United States it is the best because you can get everything and for all the models in Mexico it is not like that.
Yes it does, but the manual calls for the bike to be held vertically, not resting on the stand. It’s a two-person job unless you have a proper stand. Filling to the bottom of the threads in this manner will lead you to put too little oil in. Also, the best tool for the oil caps on this bike is a crowbar. The flat end is perfect and it gives you much easier leverage than a screwdriver.
I'm sorry, I don't understand what you just said. If you are asking if I have other maintenance videos, I have a whole play list on my channel you can watch.
Thanks , I'll make sure I use better than 'regular' for now. I've put less than a mile on it , it runs great on acceleration, shifts like butter, but backfires on deceleration, I need to sort that out. I don't find a power commander on it or fuel module , yet it looks like baffles were removed. So far, from what I read, that may be the problem.
It comes with a catalytic convertor from the factory to suppress that. It's just the way the engine was built. I was able to tune that a bit with a Cobra Fi2000, but you'll never be able to get rid of it completely. I run Chevron 93 gas always and never had an issue. I got some knocking with 89.
Thanks Slunk, Yea, I found a commander 3 under the seat, and cut back little on the richness, it pops much less, but like you say and others that have similar bikes tell me, don't worry about the pop, it's in all of the bikes in this class. I experiment with shift patterns and technique as well, to cut back at tad more on teh pop. Now from 1st to 5 I'll usually get about two pops , and if I back of the throttle slowly while engine braking , it cuts that inherent popping down as well.
My Vulcan 1600 Service Manual states, under the Final Drive, Oil Change Procedure, and is the very first step listed: "Warm up the oil by running the motorcycle so that the oil will pick up any sediment and drain easily." But, you do what you want.
I'm sorry, but no. The service manual says nothing about laying down the bike and all the photos indicate that the motorcycle is standing vertical. The amount is 200ml or just fill it to the bottom of the filler cap threads. You do not fill the entire final drive with oil. It could blow out the seals as the oil expands as it heats up.
Maybe, but he said horizontal, not once but twice. That to me means he thinks the bike is to be laid down flat. I don't want someone to read his comment and think they need to lay the bike down on it's side to add the oil.
@@ChefHikerBiker I'm looking at doing this with my bike for the first time. Thanks for this video - it's super-helpful. Regarding the comment above, is it better to have my bike completely vertical or is it alright to fill while on the kickstand like in this video?
I am not a mechanic, but to me, the difference in the amounts would be negligible. But, according to the service manual, and if you feel more comfortable, stand the bike upright.
