Lemon Drop is back!! That lovable 1969 VW Beetle. Lemon is in for brakes, oil leaks, shift linkage, but I found a whole host of nuttyness. Bad bearings, leaking wheel cylinders, etc. We get to the drums and bearings. Hope you enjoy it!
I just love watching you work on cars. Your teaching skills and knowledge plus your fastidious attention to detail and your excellent video production values are amazing! I especially enjoy watching you wrench on these simple and brilliantly engineered German cars like this Beetle and your lovely 356. You are an inspiration!
As usual a very nice and well executed/explained video. Well done. Thanks for the time to put all this together. A pleasure to watch (even if I don’t own a VW beetle). Thank you!
I cannot say how pleased I am by the true professionalism of Franny. She does not take shortcuts or try easy fixes. So many mechanics rush jobs and say that they cannot do it any other way if they want to make money. I understand at least in principle, however, Franny does the job correctly without taking to much time. She is not in a professional garage I know but, I don;t think that this level of commitment is perfection in opposition to getting the job done on time.
I'm the new proud owner of the family '63 VW Beetle. I had the front brake lock up on me today and I went looking for videos to help me with the fix. I loved your work on the brakes and the front wheel. I've not started the inspection or fix action, but with the knowledge you have shared, I'm very confident I'll get her fixed and back on the road soon. Thanks!
One short video and you made me feel like I am a VW brake/bearing expert. Of course I am not, it is just a compliment to your clear and concise instruction.
I just converted my front brakes on the '70 bug to disc brakes. Wow what a difference. I didn't want to chance messing up the new bearing races so went to a friend that had a press and carefully put them in that way. Used a lot of grease and brake fluid, but well worth the effort and minor cost. I was shocked to see on Lemon Drop those short cables on the front and how they didn't fail! Somebody's Angels were looking after them. Looking forward to your next video :)
@@HeidiandFranny Oh my, yes! It brings the Bug into this century, the 4 wheel disc swapout, w/ upgraded master cylinder isn't that bad and you get to replace bearings,seals at the same time.. pack'em with Mobil1 grease, good to go long time.
😉 Muir said at the start of his book that if we all drove as we were sitting on the front of the hood, there would be a lot fewer accidents ha ha! I think he was talking about the brakes... that was many years ago, though, and not many people do drive like that. I’ve been saved by ABS several times, so I’m no saint myself 😋. I love your videos, Franny! Very informative and they de-mystify the complex automotive machinery for the rest of us! I’ve done a few jobs on my cars, thanks to the confidence gained from you and others on here 😄
More than 50 years ago I was taught to use the old race as an install tool for the new races. Using a flat piece of steel or hardwood as a tool to press against the old race helps in applying equal pressure all the way around.If you have a hydraulic press helps too. Most old school garages had one. I have never packed grease in the wheel cavity until full. Good way to get grease all over the pads and drum once the brakes get good and hot. Just smear it liberally on the spindle. I also like to rebuild the wheel cylinders. It's easy to do and saves on buying parts.
Sweet. I have almost the exact same Beetle! mine is a hardtop but same color and interior. We call ours Lemmy! Just did this same job and the distributor. Learned a lot for your videos!
I remember working on brake cylinders back in the day. Old Fords and Vauxhalls mostly. I sometimes used a rubber seal kit for the cylinders instead of buying new ones. Here in GB we call these brake shoes and not pads. Pads are in the calliper and squeeze on the brake discs or brake rotors as you call them in the U.S. Great work as always.
I thought about a rebuild kit, but replacements are just a few $ more. We'll see how long they last though... Thanks for the term/name differences. The differences always intrigue me. Usually the GB names make more sense :) I keep getting names messed up all the time ;)
Heidi and Franny's Garage Thanks. I really enjoy your content and as always your work is excellent. If only more engineers/ mechanics were of your standard I would be more confident in the automotive industry. Love from N.Ireland.
i think you are great at the way you explain things. i have restored a 1974 super beetle in the day when their were not people like you .i know you must be really a big help to a lot of people john p.s. i enjoy watching your videos you never stop learning
Wow, brings me back to when I had a 71 Super Beetle. Got it new so didn't need much maintenance the first year. But I dove in and did all my own servicing. What a wonderful time. Thanks 😊
Loved this, a blast from the past, we had Beetles years ago, but who put that flexible hose on like that needs to rethink their work. The brake cylinder should have a metal pipe to it then to a bracket , then the rubber hose, to another bracket on the body. For the brake clips use a mole grip to hold it then you don't need to squeeze while fiddling
Absolutely brilliant video. Most thorough explanation and demonstration of brake shoe fitting I have ever seen. Well done. Don’t you just love new parts when they don’t fit!! Thanks for your efforts. 🇬🇧👍🏻🤓
When redoing the front wheels bearings and brakes on my 912, putting the hubs in the oven at 275F for 30 minutes and the bearing races in the freezer in a zip lock at the same time, inserting the races was as easy as just dropping them in, et voila... super easy and took me (outside of the wait for the hubs to be warm) a grand 30 seconds..
Great job Frannie! I had forgotten how easy front wheel bearings are on Beetles. I'm working on the front end of my CR-V and I'm taking the steering knuckles off to have bearings, lower ball joints, and wheel hub assemblies pressed in by a shop. Tolerances are too tight to do it without a press.
that is why love my beetle. parts are available and not expensive. actually i am going to replace the break lines and those bearings however my beetle is Mexican last generation disk breaks in the front. i really love your videos.
Looks like you bought the same eBay kit for brakes that I did I'm in the middle of trying to do this and I was having some difficulty so I want to thank you for having these videos
Great video. Drum brakes on these cars are more then sufficient when setup correctly and all details attended to as you have here. Removing the the bleeder helps with installing new cylinders.
Hello, I used to have 4 beetle bugs. My problem was I had no expernice to work on carb, valve adjust etc at that time no you tube. Now you tube, I could have done myself. Yes I did changed oil.. sigh but I had good memories
You folk are so so super koolies....clear views and great explanation of every operation. I just love your work ! Kindest regards , gerhard ...... Victoria Australia
Love these videos Franny. You explain everything so well and the camera is always at the right angle! thank you for making these has helped me out with my '69 VW so much.
Great video on brakes and bearings. One thing I do is put the races in a small chest with Dry Ice for about one hour. It gets much colder and in theory shrinks a bit more than just the freezer. Had much better success doing this.
Nice work. Very thorough. I find it easier to remove the bleeder screw in order to tighten the new brake hose. One less thing to think about, one less thing to break. Keep up the good work.
I think the difference in pad types is due to the notch for the parking brake. The geometry from front to rear, is quite similar, so many times the rears will be purchased in bulk, and used for both front, and rear. I've found both on VB, my little '72 bug. VB is also that pretty light-yellow, but the paint is original, and has become rather thin. :) Nice Video! I look forward to the next one.
As always a first class instruction video. Putting the anti-seize on the star adjusters is a very good advice, they have a tendency to rust, and once they are rusted in place the adjustment of the brakes becomes a nightmare. The rest of the anti seize is unnecessary in my experience. Any kind of grease is potentially doing harm to a drum brake, as You said. I also think the brake shoes aren’t getting in contact with the backing plates, once the drums are installed. I installed freshly powdercoated backing plates in my Thing and there isn‘t a single spot where the shoes had contact with the plates. And what kind of baboon installed these short soft brake lines? This is so 🤬 dangerous! Thank god, Ms Lemondrop is in Your caring hands now 😊. Oh, and the little caps are simply trash. A friend of mine just wrestled with this repro crap a couple of weeks ago. He reused the old ones either.
You are probably correct on the back plate lube. There was a deep gouge where the pad had been contacting, but only one and a little lube won't fix that. I bet the powder coating would actually be better. Yes, those soft lines... They were literally pulling on the brackets. This whole car has stuff like that. Whoever assembled it hadn't worked much on German cars. It there is something that doesn't seem right , then back up and do it again. It didn't leave the factory as a basket case.
Hi Heidi and Franny. I love watching your videos. Thank you so much for the time and effort you put into them. The details and explanations are fantastic. I got a 1966 Beetle a couple of weeks ago and your videos have helped me so much already, I even got it running this week.
Awesome video! These are so helpful as we learn the way around our new to us '68 convertible. A tip for the stubborn grommet if I may... Warming up a bit with a heat gun makes it soft, pliable and easy to install, and it will regain its shape as it cools.
Hi Franny, another great video! Reminds me of when I was a teenager and did my first brake job on a 1965 rambler. Back then the FLAP would not only cut and measure the drums and press in the races but they would also arc the shoes to fit the new diameter drums. (I wonder how many of those guys developed asbestos cancers?) My daughter just bought a Soviet LADA 1974 vintage. I stepped on the break and it went almost to the floor. This was a great “relearning” experience watching your video. Keep up the good work! I especially like your methodical explanations of “why”. It’s really cool how you catch all the drips and keep everything immaculately clean. The road tar on the inside of the fender bothered me, I’ll bet you actually cleaned out off too
Her dad taught her to drive in one in Lithuania when she was about eight or 10. He passed on in a hunting accident sometime ago. The car is really a psychological link to him. She watched your videos about winter wash and detailing the speedster and is excited about getting it “Franny clean”.
I had the same problem with the bearing caps on our '73 Super. The problem is "Made in China" vs "Hergestellt in Deutschland". It's amazing how much easier it is to access the wiring and speedo on the pre-'73s!
I think the issue is that the form they are pressing this with is worn and is a bit small. That and the metal they are using is a lot thicker. I was bummed... The old one looks like crap. But, it fits!
Franny & Heidi: using a bench grinder to turn down an old outer bearing race is a great idea in turning it into an U/S (undersize) bushing used to tap in the race. Trying to turn down a hardened steel bearing race on a lathe is very tough to do unless you have carbide tooling....and a lathe of course, or a friend that can do that for you! LOL What I have done in the past is to soak the bearing races in denatured alcohol in a deep freeze, use a pair of tongs, place the races in the hub/drum and either use an U/S bushing or a bearing race driver to set them in place. Another trick I learned was to again use the U/S bushings, get 2 1/4" thick pieces of soft steel, drill a clearance hole through both (1/4 - 1/2max), put the races in place along with the bushings and place a piece of steel on the bottom (inner), run a bolt up thru the center, through the outer bearing and bushing, through the last piece of steel, and using a flat washer underneath a nut, slowly tighten and you press both races into place simultaneously. On the setting of the bearings, I was almost sure VW had specs to initially torque to set, and back off, then tighten the nut & Allen/Hex screw? But, your method works, and I know many mechanics that do it that way. Lastly, Great Video!!! BTW, the loosening and proper tightening of that rear axle gland nut....you know what a bugger that is!
@@HeidiandFranny Im assuming Franny you know about the torquemeister tool? If not google it. It is a rorque multiplier that makes rear axle nuts and gland nuts on VWs much easier to deal with. Scott
Your videos are simply fantastic! Should be mandatory for especially soon-to-be owners, who like me can’t wait to get grease on their GLOVES ;-) Gives a realistic approach to the challenges of becoming an owner, and takes away the worries of DIY. Even if one would always take it to the shop, all your work gives valuable insights into what the hickup could be about. Grease on!😎
Good video. I don't think I've 3ver seen drum brakes where the shoes were top and bottom. Usually on the sides and slave cylinder on the bottom. All bleeders unscrew to open. Unscrew completely and they are out of the way of your hose connection.
Those new bearing caps! I did my trailer, which is exactly the same set up as this, bearing-wise (no brakes on the trailer), and I also fought with the new caps for a time, and reverted to the old ones... they must be laughing at us in the factory that makes them ha ha!!
Hi, great video and very helpful. Question though, at 15:40 you check shoe orientation, at which time the cut-away areas are facing the adjustment screws. But then at 16:25 you install springs but appear to invert the bottom shoe with the cut-away facing the cylinder. I thought those cut away areas were both supposed to face towards adjustment-screws. Was this a mistake? Or am I installing the shoes incorrectly?
@@HeidiandFranny Thanks for the reply. Great videos, keep up the great work! Seems the new ones don't have the "spring" effect for them to widen as you put them on.
Frannie I’ve never been a fan of those rubber brake lines. The braided ones are not that much more expensive last forever and they look so nice. Maybe you can consider them next time. Love your channel, best wishes do you and Heidi. Please stay safe.
Granny; nice job. Where did you purchased you jack lift? Those make your work so much easier when it comes to working in the under carriage of the car.
Thank you for such an educational show !! Love watching all your repair jobs !! I am restoring a Replica 29 Mercedes SSK Gazelle that is on a 1970 VW Chassis. Did you have any issues with getting all the air out of the front wheel cylinders while bleeding them ? With the cylinders being vertical on the rear of the plate instead of horizontal on the top of plate there seems to be air trapped in the top of the cylinder, after several attempts I ended up unbolting the backing plate and rotating it so the wheel cylinder was up top above the axle and sure enough it burped out some more air and was good after that. I was just wondering if I did something wrong or you have a better method. Thank you , John C.
Hi! I have a 1967 beetle and it has the single circuit brake master cylinder, should I change it to the double circuit? the breakes are working fine, but some people say it is safer to change it to the double circuit, others have told me that in an emergency if there is a problem with the breakes, the double circuit will make almost no difference according to their experience. I 'd appreciate your opinion, thanks! Love your channel!
We have the same dilemma on the 356. On that car there is some nod to originality. I would say that it is a good upgrade and a bit of piece of mind. It splits the braking fore-aft.
I get 5he feeling this car is a lot about originality. Plus, honestky, the stock drums aren't bad, they are just a lot more work and don't take sitting as well
I don't know where you've been buying your brake cleaner from or at what price, but I usually buy packs of 10 cans (500ml each, chlorine and acetone free) for 13-14USD on eBay. I'll use maybe one full can to do two wheels on a car if it's as bad as this car was, but usually one can gets me all 4 wheels. I would just be careful to not get any splashes on the paint or rubber.
Heidi picked up a lot on Amazon. It's getting to be that the local Auto Parts stores are only good for taking spent engine oil... Be really careful with the "Pro" version. It will permanently stain powder coating.
I hate working on drums, more work for less performance. Those cylinders always seem to leak prematurely. I don't trust these mostly 3rd party cylinders these days since they are built to such low cost.
Boy oh boy, someone was sure lucky those hoses didn't go out while on a road trip. Just shows you that you need to check what is done to your car! Those old drum type brakes still work mighty fine.(when done correctly)