Great video, the left side (drivers side) not so simple. Transmission oil pan has to come down, remove filter then the control arm bolt can come out. Just a word of caution to those thinking they’re just going to knock both control arms out real quick.
thats weird. i didnt have to do that for the drivers side. if it was more difficult, i would have included that into the video. But again i dont remember. Good info for anyone who runs into that though
Everything is so clean on your vehicle, And rust free. I’m about to do this job on my car which has been through 12 English Winters, Everything is rusty and caked with mud.
Good video! I just did this job on a 2004 Beetle GLS 2.0 with the 09G six speed auto trans. I saw a comment where someone claimed you can loosen that PITA front bolt on the driver's side control arm, back it out until the head hits the trans pan and then work the control arm out while leaving that bolt dangling in place. I was super skeptical but to my shock and delight it actually worked! The key was to angle the head of the bolt back toward the passenger side of the pan as much as possible. Then slide the new control arm in the same way the old one came out. Never had to loosen the subframe or the dog bone.
I came searching for this video for this exact reason... I started the passenger side, realized how far out the bolt stuck out, and quickly got angered by the idea that I would have to go through one of these options. Thank you for the comment! (Post attempting this, I do not believe that it is possible with the 2.5L manual trans model)
Wow. Buddy brought me his saying there is a clunk in the rear and the A arms need replacement. Charged him 310 so far and his car seems super easy. I'm used to BMWs which have press in joints that make suspension overhals a PITA.
Thanks for sharing, Muy Chingon y Muy Perro. Rolando tengo un vochito 2006 convertible lo quiero levantar 3 pulgadas atras y enfrente donde puedo conseguir un lift kit para este proyecto de antemano un Saludo El Big Dog Houston TX.
Great video on tackling this. I like how you didn't do the ole' "Assembly is reverse of disassembly" especially with the tick of aligning the axel and the ball joints at the same time. Is there any special alignment when you bolt in the new lower ball joint or are you able to move it when you have to put the three bolts back in? Why didn't you also do the tie rods, or at least the tie rod ends? I would think that if the rubber bushings are going bad then the tie rod joints would be bad, too?
It is straight forward with the ball joint going straight into the slot, and it has some play room to align the bolts in. That would have been good practice to replace the tie rod/ends, but this wasn't getting aligned at the time so I didn't think to do the tie rods. but very good that you brought it up, it can help these viewers.
@@hyr0llr My issue was discovered when I went to get an alignment, and the kit I ordered was only another few bucks to add the tie rod ends. After I get everything changed out it'll go in for alignment. Thanks again for the great video.
This is the proper procedure for this repair. I'm sure you can spot workarounds but you try fighting the knuckle, it sucks. just pull the cv and life is good.
From what i read online. 52 ft lbs + 1/4 turn for the front and rear inside bushings. Sway bar 11 Ft Lbs. and 3 ball joint bolts to control arm 15 Ft Lbs + 1/4 turn. Thats from the forums.
