Another great VW installment! Keep up the great work and great videos. This series is among the best VW restoration videos out there. I appreciate the extra time it takes to document everything.
It's not often I think to myself watching a resto channel, "this guy is good". Thanks for the very informative videos. I've not done heater channels before so it's been very helpful watching.
I love your work. Your doing a great job. I really wish that you'd use ear defenders or by the time you get to my age you'll be deaf. Wear a face mask too incase the grinder disk blows. Keep up the good work 😊
Thank you Callahan!The best video by far how to install the heater channels.The owner of this beetle must be very happy!You are doing a great job and also teaching the rest of us how to restore our beetles.Hope to see more videos from you!Regards from Cyprus.
Another great video, thanks Callahan. I just had all this on on my '62 and it's making me wish I'd had a go myself, lol. The time you take to explain what you're doing and why is really appreciated.
Another great video. Thank you so much for taking the time to make these. I have a euro spec 1200 67 bug with a factory ragtop waiting for a restoration. I'm not confident enough to tackle it all but with the help of these videos I might do some of the work.
I guess because you had the rotisserie set up to attach to the bottom of the heater channel, that you where not to concerned with the door not being aligned? Great series of videos. Thanks!!!
I discuss this in the part 1 video. Confirming that the doors are fitting correctly before bracing up the body. If the bracing is done correctly the door opening will not change throughout the process and the door will fit the same.
Again great work. I think if I ever had to do this again-nope I'm done,anyway I would probably weld an extension of a couple inches to the front heater tube that goes up in the A pillar. The only reason for this is if you ever have to change out the heater tube it would make a dang near impossible job very easy. On my last resto the heater channels were good but thr heat tubes were shot and I had to cut a little window from the inside at kick panel to change out the tube. Welded it back up and cleaned welds.Of course carpet covers it so no big deal. I live in The Midwest and heat at least in my mind is necessary if you want to drive more than a couple of months a year. Not sure where you are located. Any viewers that watch this will definately learn the correct way to do this job. Those Classic Fab channels make a whale of a difference.I wonder if its even possible to treat the internals? Anyway cheers.
That’s a good point. Usually if I have the heat tubes I will go ahead and attach them to the channels and feed it up in when I do the final install before welding. I didn’t have them on hand and didn’t think to mention it in the video.
You know those things called 'rocker panels' that are like the first thing to rot out on a car? Yeah, that's what we decided to use for hot air ducts. It'll be fine.
Love the content! Very detailed, greatly explained, well done! I got myself a '58 Beetle last week. Very solid car for its age but heater channels, pans and base of the A-pillars need doing. Lacking a professional rotisserie like yours, would I need to cater for extra bracing? The body will sit on a wooden or metal frame once removed.
Wish you had a video on replacing the A pillar. As mine needs to be replaced. Thank only on the drivers side. Its not fully rusted out, its still attached.
Great vids! Just got myself a set of heater channels from Klassic Fab after your recommendation for my 66 project. Any chance you want to jump on a plane to the UK and install them for me 😉
Thank you for the Detailed -- Install of the Heater Channel ---- The last video I believe where you went to unlock and roll the body over ---- it got away from you --- have you given it any more thought on how to have more control over it? --- Counterbalances ------ gear drive to rotate ------ it looked kind of scary ----------It was a good thing the legs were out beyond the body -- I think other wise the whole thing may have rolled right on over. ---------- Thank you for the video very nice --- Rodney
I have a second set of pins I normally use to keep it from over rotating. I just couldn’t find them and got ahead of myself. I also have a jamb bolt on the pivot point to slow the rotation, but again got ahead of myself.
I knew you must have thought about or did something to keep it under control being top heavy as it sits ----- just an accident --- Thanks for easing my mind ------ You do a very good job --- thought out -- not to have thought about this ------ See you on your next one ----- Rodney
I have been thinking about getting a VW bug for a project. Your videos have made me more confident in moving forward to finding one. Have also learned what to look for and what to look out for. Thank you so much for all your info. Are you getting the Volkswagen back after they are done with paint?
Hi Callahan, loving your bug videos and looking forward to the fab work on my 66 bug. Got a question, im replacing the pans, heather channels and i believe both lower a pilars. In what order should i approach the A pilar replacement, before or after heater channel work? Thanks for your time, keep up the awesome content!
Do you have any comments on a Karmann Ghia I know in 66 was a transition year and it's hard to find parts so I think I'll just do the best I can on it it has a new transaxle I need a motor which I'm going to work on and it needs floor pans
How do you verify the new channels will line up just right with the bolt holes on the chassis? That’s my biggest mental hang up on this job at the moment😅
My rotisserie locates the new channels in place. You can also use an old floor pan rail to check. In instances you’re really unsure, the best way to verify is to tack them in place and mock up the body back onto the chassis. It’s more work but a 100% way to check.
