Tip for all. Use high temp brake grease in place of copperslip. It will last years rather than weeks. Copperslip has it's uses, but it's only marginally better than nothing on brake companants that get a lot of heat through them. Also, the torx bolt holding the disk on. If an impact driver doesn't work. Nothing will. Drill it out, but you don't need to replace it. It just lines the disk up with the holes in the hub to make getting the wheel on easier. Instead just pop the handbrake on when the holes are lined up..... saved you a faff on drilling out that crap bolt.
Enjoyed the talking and the work. I've got the 5 cylinder '06 and have had problems with rust and seizing of the rarely used hand brake. If you will put grease on those parts that rust and seize and then put a small translucent plastic bag over the junction area that will keep the rust away and thereby the seizing. The brakes on the '06 tend to luck up upon use so I put a larger bag over the splitting yoke from the hand brake cable and that usually lasts for 4-5 years so I am free of this routine. We have lots of road salt in Chicago so this can be a bother unless you bag the joints. Make it a habit to work that hand brake every 5 months anyway if you do not have plastic bags.
Super helpful video. I thought my handbrake arm thing behind the disc had become seized, turns out it was the handbrake assembly under the van! Rusted so badly it wouldnt move and was basically locking the handbrake on.
Thankyou, a very informative video, gives me the confidence to investigate the horrendous rattling from the rear, sounds like something is hitting the tin backing plate
One of the common failures on this set-up is that the pin and clip device holding/locating the shoes in place can rust away allowing the shoes to 'float' and rattle against the backplate. A replacement set of pins is relatively cheap from any motor-factor.
Great Video Still but don’t forget that on the Drivers (UK Offside) Side The Star Wheel Goes Forward. Passenger (UK Nearside) Side the Star Wheel Goes Back. Like a numpty I spent 2 hours loosening the passenger side Star Wheel thinking it was stuck😂😂😂
I've just done the same job twice- firstly on a Crafter, and today on a Sprinter, the shoes, pads and discs being the same on both. (There are options apparently as some have vented discs.) My problem in both cases was getting the springs on afterwards. Looking at the way it fits together, your method of assembling the adjuster side first makes sense but I struggled (a lot) to get the second spring on (you made it look very easy) and ended up putting the adjuster spring on second- also very difficult. On the Crafter I used Juratek components. When assembled correctly, neither side would accept the disc and I had to remove the shoes and grind bits of metal off. Very frustrating. On the Sprinter, I had Eicher discs and Bosch shoes which went on no problem. BTW, I think the wear sensor should be on the inner pad as that is the one you can't see.
The trick with the spring (which you can't really see in the video) is that I'm levering down against the shoe on the other side so applying quite a lot of force with minimal effort.
Thank you for the video My slack adjuster is quite rusty so I am choosing to wire brush the rust and treat it with green acid and liquid wrench till it looks like I can get the bolts freed up. I'd say leave that part alone if the Handbrake feels proper(especially if it's rusty), if it's too rusty replace it), I think someone in the comments said that they could not get their discs over the drum after doing the brake job and underbody slack adjustment. I would initially just change the pads adjust the brake at the wheel and check the feel at the cab handbrake. The focus when re-installing the rotor should be a good 'tight' (as in the rotor goes on and off without cocking wedging the pads too much and the way to do this is you need to shimmy the rotor clockwise and counter clockwise while going on or off.
Great video! I like how your clearly narrating your work. Reminds me of a TV reporter at a pro Golf Tourney ( British Open ) while standing beside the green explaining what’s happening. I like it. I’m a “proud “ owner of a 2008 Sprinter 3500 Dually (170wb ) to hopefully make a MotoVan from it for weekends. It sits a lot. I engaged Park Brake when I jacked it up to paint rear wheels and now I let the lever down ( the light goes off ) BUT when I put into D or R it sounds like it goes into gear BUT I go nowhere. I removed wheels and hammered back the actuator at the end of the cable and the passenger side now rolls BUT the driver side will only move a few inches. When I look into the lug hole to find adjuster ALL I FIND ARE SPRINGS. NO ADJUSTER. The disc brakes broken you think? There’s nothing else to stop the wheel if it’s in N. Must be bad ? The caliber pads seem to have 1000ft lbs torque so I was hoping to adjust through the hole. IF I COULD SEE IT. AGAIN I’m looking through the a lug whole. I don’t have a hole with Torx nut in it. Is that on a diff circumference than the lugs? I thought it was the same. Sorry for the long one. Thanks !
It's a long time ago now - but I'm pretty sure it only works one way up which is the way that gives a straight pull on the cable without kinking it over the backplate. Basically, the same way round it came out.
@@rdownmakeITbetter thanks so much for the reply I managed to sort it. I'd taken it off a couple of weeks ago and just put it back yesterday so couldn't remember myself.
Nice video. I'm doing the same to my 2006 sprinter. Just one question I'd like to ask,if I may. At around 7.20 sec's when you're adjusting the handbrake tensioner which position is your actual handbrake level in. Fully off, 2 clicks up or fully up ?. Also did your engine management light come on after, if so, how did you get rid of it. ? many thanks for your reply.
Hi. I'm glad someone is still finding this useful. When you're taking up the slack in the front cable, the handbrake lever should be fully down as it would while driving. You're just taking out the slack so the cable doesn't rattle around and wear out. For the next stage of the adjustment, you should probably have the handbrake up by a couple of clicks - but there's generally enough slack in the system to not bother with this.
It's not about the bit, it's about technique. Turn the drill slowly, apply plenty of pressure, use oil to lubricate it and keep the bit sharp. You shouldn't have any issues - those bolts are not hardened in any way.
@@rdownmakeITbetter cheers mate. Followed what you said and got it 👍. The top plate for the handbrake inside the drum has cracked. I’ve ordered new set going to pick it up in morning. There a few springs inside and 1 of them fell out when took the drum off . 👍
On the video at 7.21 minutes In ….ther is a pivot section with a spring attached to the bottom of it, just where the man’s hand is holding / or just beside …does anyone know the correct name for this part I need this particular part for my Mercedes sprinter campervan 1998
Hi. Don't know which country you're in, but the following url should give you a part number. mercedesgenuineparts.co.uk/products/brake-cable-adjustment-a9064200238-sprinter-906-907-model-series
These are worse than the old sprinter/lt35. Ive niw got a crafter thats been parked up for 2 months and brakes are slightly seized. Gonna look at rear wheels first as from what youve described/ done is the most likely culprit. Never had this in the older vans.
