Twiggs, sorry to butt in like that but there is a LOT more to this. While the 10/40 castrol oil (which despite the label is NOT really a fully synthetic oil, but a hydrocracked base oil produced from crude oil. Real, ester-based synthetic oils are manufactured diffrently) would be ok if replaced frequently (I do my oil changes on "normal" engines every 7000 kms/4500 miles, every 3000 km on tuned motors) I would NOT use it in an ACV engine. First of all it`s not truly synthetic,. Second of all, these "modern" oils are very low on sulphur additives (it says low saps). ACV engine was designed to run on full saps oil (rich in sulphur additives) and while low saps meets the VW recommendations it would be beneficial to use full saps oil. I use Millers Trident 5/40 FULL SAPS. Found it to be the best in regards to cleaning capabilities, reduced engine noise and cold start (we don`t have heavy winters here either). Just my 2 pence, I spent a lot of time on this subject when I was building high-powered cars..
i was told not to use full synthetic. I've tried everything from the cheapest crap to the full synthetic. now sticking with the cheapest 10/40 semi. i rather replace 1000 miles earlier and just use the cheaper stuff keeping it cleaner in general.
hi twiggs just wondering i need to change the valve stem seals without taking the head off i know how do it but i dont how to hold the valves in place when i push the spring down with no air compressor do i take out glow plus and hold them up some how be good for some info please
Going through the injectors is an option because they usually come out a lot easier than glow plugs. Glow plugs can be a pig, spray with wd40 and keep reapplying over a few days. If they have been in for a while, there is a possibility they are seized and could possibly snap. This is exactly what has happened to my mate, he’s had to leave the snapped glow in the head
makes no difference. an engine can run for quite a while if it's only just been emptied. I actually start mine up with the filter and drain plug out just to flush out a bit extra. Then i pour some clean oil in to flush a bit more out, start it again and then replace filter and drain plug and continue.
@@jamesnlou not at all. You can run an engine for quite a while as long as it had oil and was run fairly recently. Damage would occur once everything dries out, heats up or is put under heavy load. I just changed my oil and revved it with the sump plug off several times, I did not fill the oil filter, only the fuel filter. Never ever been an issue. Can you give me examples of when it has been an issue?
@@jamesnlou There is a difference between running an engine without oil and not pre -illing an oil filter. I have changed oil filters around 50 times in my life i guess and i have never lost an engine. I drive hard.
Best oil is a dirty oil, because it proves the oil does it's jobs cleaning the engine from dirt, ofc that applies only if you engine is old if the engine is new the oil filter should do the job perfectly.
