A video on how to replace the cables that operate the electric sliding doors, this is my way of doing things, others may be different, any tips or improvements leave a comment.
Perfect video! One of the best explained I've seen and ive watched plenty. Thank you. I did the job in around 3hrs and it worked first time. I would definitely have done it wrong without your help.
Thank you so much for posting this video, it made what seemed like a daunting repair quite straightforward. I have one tip that can help to put the two wheels together, and trying to bring the tensioning spring into line. I used a length of the old cable, created a loop, and used the loop to pull the spring round as I put the outer wheel into place.
A simpler solution is to put first the wheel without spring in place (for the closing). Then the 2nd one (for the opening) _with_ the spring. When you put it in it's easy to pull the spring with pliers in order to tension it properly.
I had to repeat the same fix on the otherside of the van. This time I spotted the two holes in the cable wheels that align when the tension is taken up. With a drill bit of the right dimension, I was able lock the two wheels with the spring pre-tensioned, wrap the cables around the respective wheels and slide them onto the motor drive spindle. Pull out the drill bit and see a slight twist as the tension is taken up in the cable. This seems to be the purpose of the holes, and makes sense to me.
I looked at your video again again. And actually my linkage tube is not the same as yours so this is where the issue is. You have two exposed contacts on the your linkage and somehow I have only one. I guess this is the difference between left and right side and I guess I have a left linkage and pulleys set on my original part that i took apart because it was broken ! Damn !
i think you're talking about the same issue i have. My central metal pin has a flange on both sides. meaning the white wheels need two openings around the centre bore, like he has in this video. But the kit i bought (for a 2010 caravelle) which says it'll fit...only has a single opening on each wheel
Getting the sliding door cover panel back on. I found I had to remove the fuse that powered the motor to allow me to slide the door to the position that allows the panel to slide back in. On our 2011 Caravelle it was located in the set under the passenger seat. It was one of the the large ones at the rear on the passenger side. It may take some searching of fuse layout diagrams and trial and error to find the right one on other versions!!!
I’ve used this video to help me fix both doors on my Caravelle. The only slight change I’ve made is fit everything except the shorter cable to the door. Then use the pretension in the spring once it’s all secured in its housing to then attach to the visible door.
Hello, the repairs kits are the same for left and right door? Is there something different between the two kits? I bought kits for left and right and on the left side the plastic rolls are different...
At 36mins45secs... The way I 'caught the spring' was to use a 'U' shaped loop of thin wire around it and simply pull the spring arm down with the wire between the wheels. Once the spring is located you can let go of one end of the wire and pull it out using the other end. Other than that I followed the video and my door is back in action Thanks
Thanks for this video I just managed to sort my sliding door after months of being broken. Also treated myself to the same 24" bolt cutter/ come crimpers 😂
One of the best how to videos I've seen. Does anyone know where the kit comes from? Is it a VW part? The electric doors were disabled years ago before I bought my T5 - they even removed some of the buttons - I'd love to reinstate the power, but the motors will need checking first.
Mine did exactly the same as yours this morning your video makes Me want to attempt it. Where’s the best place to get the kit ? Is it a vw main dealer part?
Hi my pulleys on the motor are not the same as yours. they are like on the left side. I am baffled but anyway I bought same set as you are showing on the video but when I put the metal tube to make the link to the motor there is not way the two pulley have any slack or pretension they are fixed locked. My original pulley show a symbol R and are original never replaced. Do you recall if the inside of the pulley that linked to the metal tube were half moon ? I am baffled. Everywhere on the internet it shows right being like what you have and what I bought but not what I had originally! Can you help me?
Great video Ramage52, My door is making exactly the same noise so I’m going to tackle this, two questions; how do you know how long to cut the new cables (taking into account stretching etc) and did the noise go away after it settled down? Cheers!
Great video mate. My door is not making that sound. I think my door pinch sensor is either faulty or the wire has broken. Can you help me as to where I could find the wire for the pinch seam sensor in the door rubber? Cheers much appreciated
Great video, followed it to the letter but discovered my problem was the bolt on roller guide towards the front end. Its a crappy plastic thing compared to the rear roller. Anyone know where I can get this part by itself, looked everywhere 🙁
hi the push pins that hold the panel in place are badly worn , can you tell me the correct name for them so i can order some replacements please .. the ones have a small ring of rubber on and they no longer move .. thanks
What's the bolt head type on bolts holding the rail on the van? None of my spline bits fit, so I need to buy the right bit before I can get on with this. TIA
I know you posted this video last year. I've been searching everywhere to convert my automatic doors to manual. I'm fed up with the issues. I'm wondering. Besides removing the cables what else needs to be done to convert to fully manual. Any help would be great
@@ramage52 hi. Thanks for the reply. Well the cables are snapped on both electric doors. I have a parasitic drain as well. Now I dont know where the drain is from and this is the second time replacing the cables. So I would like to cancel the electrics all together to be honest but dont want other issues coming up with the ECU