Thanks a lot for this video, i own a CLK500 with no working keyless entry and fixed both handles today. Not an easy job, but finding out how it works takes a lot more time then the job itself. Advise for people who want to try this themselves : The silver plastic cover will probably break removing and if that happens the remaining part keeps the inside part in place, so remove the silver plastic pieces before carrying on. The inside unit is glued in the handle and while removing you have to take the pressure off the lock button, because that button will work against you in the fight of getting the handle open. The button side of the handle can easily be opened by cutting it open with a stanley knife. The buttons I used are 6x6x4.3 for the locking and 6x6x5 for the unlocking. Total price of the job is 12 euros for enough parts to do this job 10 times, the most expensive are new locking buttons because with a 20 year old car the will not survive this procedure and replacing them gives a good protection for the new switch, that said, the buttons you find from a company called x8r did not fit my clk from 2002 w209, so I ended up resealing the existing buttons. Last of all, the resistors are standard 300 and 470 ohm for 12v and don't bother trying to re-use the existing resistors. In total it took me around 3 hours to do the first handle and the second was done in around 40 minutes. Also on the mercedes forum was a comment that the cheap chinese buttons are known to fail after a few months of use, but then again, you have enough parts to do this job10 times, so if I need to replace it all in 3 months use it is worth the 40 minutes of time to replace them again, but that is my opinion and sealing the hole thing so water doesn't get in should lengthen the life of the switches a lot.
Thank you Dei Vis from California, USA. Your video was informative and helpful because if I own this long enough ALL door handles will fail so I have options to fix if I don't want to spend $300-$500 per handle where I live.
thanks for this. i took out a handle and measured the resistance. clearly, either the switch doesn't work. i took apart the handle (getting the chrome piece off was not the easiest the first time!) but all of the stuff is potted so you cannot just go in and rewire it. you've got to be really driven to yank out all of the stuff from the handle and then put in new stuff.
Thanks for this video. I have done it and it works perfectly. I have used SMD components, not hard to solder. I opened it with force so I broke one fixation support, but it was repairebale. At the end, I have covered everything in black silicone, on the inside. You cannot tell any difference. I have used new push buttons, 6x6x2.5 mm, but I think you could use a little bit bigger 8x8x5. Very happy with the result.
Hi Dica, I'm considering this repair. 1) Is it your thinking to use 8mm x 8mm x 5mm micro swiches or a little larger size A mm x B mm x C mm? Other thoughts on size specification? 2) My Door Pull rubber has torn or disintegrated and is NOT sealed from water any more. The Door Pull is the rubberized plastic Pull that is the part that your fingers touch and pull outward toward your body when pulling open the doors and while making micro switch contact. Did yours require replacement, did you buy that piece or you just accepted it was ripped? Thanks!
Thanks for Very nice writeup! I could do the electronics repair as you indicated but the rubberized flexing portion of the 4" long plastic/rubber cover squeeze (or pull) handle has disintegrated (ripped or come apart). Without having taken handle apart further yet I believe water entry has damage the electrical components as you described. And if I now make the electrical repair I still have a gaping opening for water to enter the switches and shorten their life dramatically. So, I'm maybe looking for an aftermarket 4" long plastic/rubber cover squeeze (or pull) handle before I decide to replace electronics in my case.
How do you take apart the door handle itself? I’m trying to take apart the chrome piece from the painted to open the handle inside, but with no luck. I’m afraid of breaking it !
Dei Vis, I'm considering this repair. 1) Is it your thinking to use 8mm x 8mm x 5mm micro swiches or a little larger size A mm x B mm x C mm? Other thoughts on size specification? 2) My Door Pull rubber has torn or disintegrated and is NOT sealed from water any more. The Door Pull is the rubberized plastic Pull that is the part that your fingers touch and pull outward toward your body when pulling open the doors and while making micro switch contact. Did yours require replacement, did you buy that piece or you just accepted it was ripped? Thanks!
At 1:55 we see two places to connect to the plug in the door, should one color of wire be connected to the left side of the circuit and the other to the right? Doesn't it make a difference? If so, which color should go where?
hi, very useful video , i have e200 2004 with keyless go problem exactly all lift side and start stop button dosn't work , can you help ? it was the same problem ? thank you
Ok and could you please tell me which resistors you have used? I find out that the 300 ohm and 470 ohm has also Watt powers and there are also differences in metal or carbon resistors. I am really not familiar with this, thats why I am asking
@@TheNetavo I mean opening up the plastic pieces to put the resisters and switches inside, you said it was a bit "tricky" or something, but later on I found another video of someone heating it up to melt the glue and prying it open with some plastic tools unless you have a better way