For the fans of wire nuts, remember they are poor when connecting braided and solid wires together. The braided wire doesn't pinch when combined with a solid wire, and can just coil round rather than locking in. That is why so many fail the pull test. These connectors have separate clamps so don't have the same issues.
I'm in the states and running into JUST that problem on my ac wiring. Stranded thicker wire connected to thin solid thermostat wiring and it is a nightmare. Bought a 10 pack of 221's and I know they're UL and think it's okay but I can't imagine it would be a worse connection than those damned wire nuts.
Man you guys. Thankyou I had one of these burn out on me I checked the cable and the wago had disintegrated. I wanted to know how safe it was to put in and you guys helped me. Cheers
That OCD comment is recognizable. I was using large wire nuts on 5 x 12 gauge wire, they weren't working properly due to some corrosion, and they're hard to test on top of that. I probably checked each connection 10 times for tightness and it still wasn't good. These Wago connectors really take the guesswork and frustration out of making electrical connections.
Just opened a plug socket in kitchen and found 6mm cable jammed in with extension off the plug feeding the cooker which only needed 2.5 as only a small oven. Plug fubar, changed this with 6mm 5 port WAGO 221-615 41A, bloody amazing so much easier than connector blocks: plug socket connected off in in 2.5mm. Very expensive but can’t find something anywhere near equivalent that can take 6mm stranded wire
@@efixx it actually would be nice to have options with connectors with opposite side entry, but I haven't seen any with that design. That'd be useful for pigtailing to a single common.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr Yes I think you are right - unless the diameter of each is small enough that you can put two together. I ordered some of this type, but there is a lead time of 45 days!
Great Video as always. I have one concern where the Wago is not the silver bullet and more thought needs to be paid where the assumption is they are all Maintenance Free (MF). If you look at the BS 5733 (MF) documentation for Aggregate current (I ag) (on Wago's site) they specific that to maintain MF compliance this should not exceed 50A (depending on the wago type). I realise that Wago's fitted within accessible areas are not MF but I've seen (and discussed) several wrong implementations of (expected) MF where I ag is not taken into account certainly on a ring (or radial) circuit higher than 6A. One of your excellent videos could explain this well and prevent a wago box buried under the floor boards that is not actually MF compliant.
Take care when stowing the WAGO connector back in the box, that you do not inadvertently flip the WAGO switch back up on another wire or other object inside the box. I've seen it happen and caused a short
I’ve got a ton of 222’s to get through before I can justify buying some 221’s 😏 Nice video lads! Have you done a video on the 773 series, I’d be interested to see if you can fit a stranded wire in those without tinning the end or using a ferrule.
Hi Guys, is the 221 a maintenance free connector my understanding is that the 221 isn't and the 222 is maintenance free. Would appreciate some feedback on this?
The download of document on my post above only states the 222 is MF but perhaps because the 221 is newer and may just need an update to the doc. I've emailed Wago but no reply as yet (if at all)
From my research: the 222 in a Wagobox is Maintenance Free; the 221 on its own is not as it is too loose in the slots. But Wago sell a little shell thing that fits in the Wagobox and that makes the 221 MF.
What kind of maintenance would be needed on any of these? Oil change? Do you mean someone expects to have to regularly open and close the lever to restore the connection after degrading over time?
Hi, love your videos! Question, I have 2 sockets where the cables are really too short, you can barely get at the terminal screws. They have 3 of each colour wires going into socket. Could I use the Wago 222, 5 port connected to say the 3 brown and then add a single fly lead to connect to the socket? Or would this be dangerous?? 👍
I recently had a socket fail, on inspection, the electrician found that the wires in the wall were very short which probably hampered the installation of the switch. Is it ok to use a 5 way wago connectors with an extension in one of the holes and the 3 existing connections in the other 3 holes with one hole left spare? I can't find a 4 way wago connector. This will mean only 1 wire will be fed to the socket and will be easier to tighten correctly if this is ok to do.
I have a problem i have a 400v system but can't find a 400v connector does a 300v connector do the job or Will this fail after a long time Thank Nice vid tho I feel very stupid a the moment i saw another vid and i was looking at the Japanse side of the connector. I am very thankfull for the vids you make becaus i would have been looking for another week if you didn't make a vid Thank you very much to take the time to make these awsome vids
The skinny ones in this set for example. 👍www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/3922334-replacement-probes-and-clips?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9YWDBhDyARIsADt6sGY25tT2sEctDof7OPaDx7c8RPq9GMiK11MUVweAHBsNIXuXwaGaICcaAsPnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
8:43 They really should redesign the test ports to accommodate the thicker probes that are commonly used. It shouldn't require buying thinner test leads just to be able to probe the connectors easily. You can force it in and enlarge the hole enough to make contact with the thicker probes, but that's hardly ideal, and not very safe, if you're not sure you pushed hard enough yet. It's actually easier to probe from the wire side rather than using the test port in that case.
Does the WAGO connector (3 bays) function the same as a GKEEMARS connector that is (1 in & 2 out)? I need to split the (+) Positive current 2-ways. One is going to a 24V (150 Watt) DC motor with 12AWG wire and the other one is going to an LED voltage meter that uses a 20AWG wire. I need to split the current like a "Y" splitter, one wire to the motor and the other wire to the LED volt meter. Currently I am using a Gkeemars (1 in to 2 out) but I would like to replace it since they do not work as well. Thank you, Ed
I'm not an electrician just a keen Diyer but that means connecting wires coming in from 2 opposite directions you will have to make one end longer to reach and bend round to the Wago input. Maybe that is not much of a problem for professionals !
It's not a problem. And only going in from one side has massive advantages, for example the terminals require less space. And you can orderly make your connections, like this junction box here: der-elektriker.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/Abzweigdose-installiert-1024x536.jpg And you got a better protection because potentially live parts are not exposed. The thing is, if you got a problem in the installation and need to make measurements in it to find the fault, you need to pull out the wires of a junction box to perform tests on the connectors. And I can tell you, after 30 to 40 years the screw terminals are all loose. The copper deforms over time, and the screw remains in the original position. That's something that won't happen with the Wago.
Wire nuts also need the same wire orientation though, so it's just the same. It would need nice if they offered options for opposite side connections also, I would buy them.
4:03 Do the conductor strip length markings mean MAXIMUM strip length or the ideal strip length? I've always taken it to mean the ideal strip length, +/- say 2mm.
Gaz & Joe, great video as always, I love the Wagos too, having bought a set at Elex London I have used them since, but I have to tell you that the Wago rep told me that they are pronounced Vago
Thanks for the comment Dean it's nice to hear from you. You're spot on about the pronunciation, in fact Gaz and Joe have a long running joke about it! Stay tuned for more content.
So it's not Wahgo, but Vahgo? Don't know if Americans will get on board with that. That's like saying Pahree. Correct, oui, but just not done without quizzical looks.
Was that just a misquote of Japanise amps by Gary at start as he said 20A and 30A but for the smaller and larger wago connector block, whereas Joe said 32A and 41A.
Do you know if the WAGO connectors are good to use in a vehicle (RV in my case). I worry that they might vibrate enough that the lever would click back open and the wire would fall out. Do you know if these are good for a high vibration environment like a vehicle?
Can you use the 5 port 221 connector to get three 6mm cables into and then one to the face plate of a double socket to get around the fact that three 6mm cables don’t fit? I have a 6mm radial run of sockets that have FCU spurs off some of them to isolate extractor hood etc and just discovered that three into one doesn’t go! Is the wago route a safe way of solving this?
Interesting video, thanks. Bit confused about the current ratings. At the start of the video you say the smaller and larger Wagos can take 20A and 30A respectively but later on when you show the close ups of the connectors, the current ratings are higher. Also, on one side of the Wago it says JET and has a different current rating than on the other side. Can you explain, please? Thanks.
Well spotted, we'll give Joe a slap on the hand for not mentioning. It's all down to differing electrical standards and approvals. JET is related to the electrical standards in Japan, it's also accompanied by the PSE mark which is the approvals mark for Japan. Whereas the other side of the connector has a different current rating approved by ENEC - Europe and UL- USA .
Just ordered some of these for the light at the top of the stairs. When I remove the current fitting there is not much wire that drops down. I have also orders the junction box and don’t think there is enough wire to get into the box. So can I just wire up the Wago 222 and push into space between ceiling and loft or does in have to go in the wago junction box?
Ok ist zwar nett, aber warum macht man net wirklich eine Steckverbindung draus. Ich suche so etwas auf die Art. Richtige Steckverbinungen. Ich schliese die 3 Kabeln von z.B. Luster an einen Verbinder, dann die 3 Stromkabeln an einen andere Verbinder und verbinde die zwei einfach mit einer Steckverbindung. Gibt es sowas am Markt?
great vid lads but at end of day its the customer who pays im a chippy if i used a screw that was 3 times the price but did the same job what will the customer say given that choice ?
@@normanboyes4983 yeah, if you get paid enough per hour, the extra cost from using the more expensive connector should be offset by the shorter work time. However, if the labor is free then the parts and material costs will be more significant, increasing the cost of the job.
JET stands for The Japan Electrical Safety & Environment Technology Laboratories and is their ratings group further, for the 32A side as to why it doesn't say 600v it's based on requirements for ratings labeling in different countries here's a Wago rep explaining it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-d2lkBlIPkHg.html
Gaz can you tell us why that in this video the wago is marked as be rated to 41 amp and the conductor length as 13mm ? Yet in the video you did with Markus the very same wago ie the 221 is marked as 32amp and conductor length as 11mm ? Why is the accact same wago ie 221 in both videos but with different information on them? Is one of them a fake ? All my 221s are rated at 32amp with an 11mm conductor length, the my two gang three gang five gang and my new inline 221s .
There are two size families in the 221 series - one rated to 32A - 4mm sq - eg 221-413 and a larger one rated to 41A - 6mm sq - 221-613 www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Cable_Accessories_Index/Wago/index.html#Wago_Lever_C
Good one, you don't need to open the lever to remove either, just twist back and forth. Very similar to Ideal brand push in connector. I'm not sure that there is much difference in performance, but the IDEAL brand is cheaper and readily available.
Can these be used as a replacement for connector blocks? im thinking maybe good when i wire in my car stereo and some other low voltage stuff. Great video :)
I love them , but there is a lot of hate for them in North America ( totally unfounded ) . I love them , as I don’t need to lug a pair of linesman pliers !
When I work in North America, I got my linesman pliers and marrettes aka wire nuts, in the UK, back to screw terminals or wago, I prefer wago to ideal, ideal being a yankie, is maximum profit, down to value engineering, being an E & E Engineer, I know about such things, it's a preference, you may agree or disagree, but, been a spark Engineer for along time, not yet set in my ways, not yet, anytime soon, lol,
Brilliant video guys. Just found your channel. I have a question about the connectors - Although the manufacturer suggests that cable should be stripped back no more than 13mm, how far inside the WAGO connector is the contact point? For instance, if I inadvertently stripped a cable at 8mm long would I still get a connection?
@@imissedtheapex1191 I've actually used the 8 way ones to make up a central junction box for an entire lighting circuit with all RF receivers for the wireless switches at one central location
fine connectors, there are plenty good uses for them, nothing wrong with the Marrette / Wire nut. There absolutely no need to make the electricians job any easier..
In this case if you think that the spring is more stronger than the screws So why car manufacturers they use bolds for the wheel instead of clips and springs??
@@efixx Yes i know, i sold them as a distributor and went to the factory in the early 90's when they first came in to the country, The very reason i commented was because you continually referred to them as way-go in the video which was wrong. if you know why do you call the way-go?
Andrew rowles - If you want to see copies on another level check out Alibaba! - www.google.co.uk/amp/s/m.alibaba.com/amp/showroom/wago.html We don’t recommend a purchase!
It is not WAY GO It is WAGO as in WAG THE DOG - Pay attention and pronounce it correctly Aldo learn that CORPORATE NAMES are always in the ALL CAPS iteration Do you know the difference between ON / OFF and on / off ? and in which context each are used The youngest students I taught age 7 know the difference Do You ?
Most of these comparison videos fail by mistakingly comparing a product with a technique; apples to oranges. Traditional wire nuts don’t ever fail; the person who first twisted the bare conductors together may have done it wrong (or not at all!), but the wire nut didn’t fail. Wagos are not wire nuts. The electrical connection is minuscule and therefore it is a weak connection, just like back stabbing in a common receptacle.
***See*** this video for a Wago vs traditional connector race! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KIBnrO1Yn4Y.html - Looking for FRESH electrical content *** Making products waterproof ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_DooiH4BCZo.html ** Light switch with no wires MAGIC ! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V3KqTOxp2oU.html * What we do - if you're new to eFIXX ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vs3O1kpxTiE.html
"CPC" (?) is not an abbreviation I am familiar with -- your British English is difficult for my American ear to understand. I had to turn on closed captioning to review your dialog.
*** NEW VIDEO *** We take a closer look at the Wago 224 series for lighting applications ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y98v7NvuCVw.html
That's simple prejudice based on familiarity with another product. These have the same certifications as wire nuts and more besides. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uBErMOkFhqg.html
Long term, very long term with the continual heating and cooling of the wiring I don’t think those small internal busses will hold up like wire nuts. Just saying.
"Maintenance free connector" ...what is a high maintenance connector? These connectors are not safe, what happens when too much current goes through it? The answer is PROBLEMS
Hi Alan, like any connection in an electrical circuit it’s important that it is rated correctly. All circuits should be selected and erected correctly e.g. correct size cable and over current protective device. Thanks for the message and watching.
*Any* type of connector will have problems if too much current goes through it! That's why you coordinate the components of a system including circuit protective devices to avoid too much current...
Any terminal with screw terminals it's liable to not being tightened correctly, not just connectors. The cost is a bit of a killer really, I use them where I have to, but still mostly used the connectors. I would like to see a more distinguishing feature between the two types for the different current ratings, maybe a direct colour lever.
