Geometric issues for proper setup and operation are shown and explained. Also see how the bike AND the trainer should be set up together • Set your bike RIGHT wi...
As an engineer I thought you did an excellent job of explaining this. I wish you could write the schematics I have to decipher everyday. I wish good health, happiness and all the best to you and yours!
Brilliant video - was setting up my wahoo tonight and it just didnt feel / look right. Bit of research and i find this video. Life (and bike frame!) saver. Cheers!
Thanks for your thorough explaination. Do you think that the kickr core is compatible with cheaper bicycle with 7-speed cassette? Specifically the infamous amazon eurobike with shimano tourney on it
Excellent explanation - why Wahoo, with all its cash, can't provide this level of detail I don't know. I'm finding that even with the correct axle spacer (135mm), when I tighten the skewer, the frame still seems to compress by 1-2 mm, and the derailleur alignment scooches inwards visibly as I tighten down the QR lever. This just doesn't seem right. I get very "clunky" gear changes, although there is no rattling (which would normally indicate indexing issues). I fear for the life of my bike's drivetrain if I continue to ride the Kickr when the gear changes are so clunky.
Thank you. Just brought a Kickr Core and this was really helpful! I am very new to this and have a silly question though... is the bike suppose to sit on the axle adapters or the thru axle and springs?
Can you please look at your Boondocks review Video? How did you get the end cap off the rear wheel to get the axle out? I can't figure it out for the life of me. Thanks!
The end cap is friction-fit. It is not threaded or held otherwise. The force required to overcome this friction could be applied with a pair of slip-joint pliers, (not a plain pair of pliers so they don't slip off the round cap), the end caps pulled straight out axially (in the direction of the axle). Maybe a tiny back-and-forth turning can help break the friction force WHILE being pulled back with pliers. Non-marking jaws on the pliers are nice if cosmetics is a concern, otherwise the serrated edges of the pliers will gauge out the aluminum cap. Thanks for asking and watching!
@@XCRiders I think if you have a lightweight bike skewer, the Kickr skewer is stronger. But a general bog standard steel bike skewer would normally be OK.
@@XCRiders From what I've looked on the internet it is recommended to use the one provided by them or another one (heavier and sturdier one). From the explanations I found around the stresses that goes through the frame and bike are much higher when you are stationary and you risk damaging the one that is already on your bike. Of course if the one that came with your bike is already a strong one it should hold up just fine but frankly for mine I have no idea, it does seem lighter the one I have on my bike but that's about the extend of information I have on mine :).
