Abe is back and wants to share his knowledge with you! How do you know when you are running too cold? how do you know when you are running too hot? How do you know if it's just right? Here are some signs to look out for!
What you learn in a paid course is more then what you learn on RU-vid you to can’t give you consumables material to practice on equipment you won’t have access to
The videos just keep getting better and better, appreciate all the Hard Work and the people and whole supporting cast, that come together for one common cause to make it Happen 💯🙏🏾🕺🏾🥳
The amperage and filler rod diameter has to factored in when setting the weld machine. 3/32 to 5/32 rod runs very different numbers. It's all about personal preference and experience.
Thank you sir so much for the great content that you give out and the rest of the WeldTube crew, I can’t wait to graduate from welding school next month.
I think it gets slippy because the metal is cooked, when the metal gets cooked it's mechanical properties are lost and the steel begins to break down and it starts to turn gray, when it's gray it's super slippy and is basically a lost cause. Crappy gas coverage will also cause the metal to go gray which will lead to a slippy pipe/plate and make it really hard to roll/walk the cup on consistently, without slipping off and stabbing your hand with a nice red hot tungsten xD
Thanks for the video, great work. I have taught a bunch of people to weld over the years and I have been a big fan of pushing people to run to hot and too cold as part of the learning process. It’s hard to know what’s too hot when you have never ran too hot. This video definitely ended better than most could with 300amps lol. Mad props for handling 300👍🏻.
There really is a natural tendency for a beginner to run cold thinking by going slow you can create wider beads and the idea that maybe if you run hot you’ll need to walk it faster therefore tighter beads. This is especially more true for stainless pipe with the sugaring and all.
I’m learning to walk the cup after free handing for many years. Is there a reason the center of your “walked” welds are not lined up with the actual weld groove? Wouldn’t this cause one of the two PCs of metal that are being welded together to heat up way more than the other, and cause puddle control and penetration problems?
This was a very useful covering an essential topic with very simple clear video. As a complete novice i thought the rule was always 1 Amp/thou. Thank you. Is their a simple guide available for Amps settings for different weld material thicknesses and configurations. ir fillet/pipe/flat plate etc etc etc
Another great video. You said the hotter the pipe, more chances to slip the cup while walking. Do you wait for the pipe to cool down before capping? Thanks.
Also, another insight to the "slipping of the cup" from what i have seen is that the ceramic cup gets hot and turns black on the nozzle side where you are walking the cup, that side gets slick and makes you slip the cup
I have a 17fv torch and the box says the amp rating is 150. How long can you typically weld at the max rating before destroying the torch and can you go over the max rating?
Matthew Williams depending on the torch they have different duty cycles. A weld craft is 60% I believe so 6 out of 10 minutes. A ck torch is rated at 100% so non stop. “Technical Data” also that’s at 150A if you go over the duty cycle goes down so just can’t weld as long
I'm going to look for you on RU-vid. I don't have Instagram. Now that I've been through tig school I prefer to tig instead of spatter ass stick or bs mig.
I wish you would have talked about heat in relation to filler wire? What a ball park for heat on carbon... with a 3/32 rod? Ball park on carbon 1/8? And ball park on 5/32 filler? Also are you using 1/8 tungsten? And what size rod and gap do you choose for various size pipe? Or is it always using 1/8 er70s-2 ? Now with that said can you do all that again for stainless? Roughly 2/3 the heat correct?
@@nate_the_welder yes very true... but for root on carbon with both bevel edges no land... 1/8 back feeding cane be done at 100-110. So yes it is close.... but what you recommend for stainless? And do cup sizes and tungsten stick out change from root to cap?
@@nate_the_welder great info.... more like this i need. What about tacks for back purdge? 12.3.6 and 9? Do you start right 6 and quarter pipe? And peel tape as you go? Or go right from 6 to 12?
@@nate_the_welder hey nate... yes 1/8 is .125 But i was told that for base metal... im refering to filler rod size? Now with pipe its feathered edge... so assume your saysing for rod side?
@redxpen yes absolutely.... agree. Gap and fit up will determine heat... I am in a structural shop.... so no tig at all .... all this is on my own paying for my own stuff. So im just trying be specifics due to if i only need to buy a tube of 1/8 filler. Or is it best to have 3/32 and 5/32 aswell... tha ks again guys
What up weldtube! I just want to stop by and say I really dig your videos. Quick question. On a Stainless 2” Schedule 40. Would you say 75 amps is to cold for the root pass on a 1/8 gap? Or what gap and amps would you recommend.
Awesome 👍🏻👍🏻👌🏻 Hey i always have problems caping at 2G it sags an i get under cut at the top bead . Can u make a video on 2G tig cap on a CS 6" SCH 40 please
Change torch angle, turn down amps, add more fill, could even be to cold and to moving to slow causing it to sag and gouge the top. Hard to say for sure without seeing it in person or how your doing it so I could point out issue/issues your having. Keep at it and it'll click
that’s completely normal if it happens to you... We all have been there. Just do 2 bead caps, the second one on top will cover if you had undercut at the first one
Eso no se regula segun el amperaje.. se regula segun el tamaño de la copa... Normalmente se multiplica por 2 el tamaño de la copa.. si usas una copa #5 con 10 cfh basta... Si usas una 7 con 15cfh funcionara bien.. a mayor la copa.. asi mismo mas flujo de argon.. no tiene nada que ver con el amperaje..
Buen dia saludos desde mva. coah. mex. Exelentes videos. Alla en estados unidos tambien trabaja un primo k trae un grupo de soldadores pipe line se llama gerardo cortez no se si lo conoscan saludos
Good vid but you also have to be more informative on gas pressure and how to set machine to self arc rather than using foot peddle. All this plays a factor to those who do not know how to read a gas regulator and pressure that is stated on a WPS. GOOD vid tho..
