Question Dave... Why not put the new gutter under the felt and battern? Then all drainage is covered? At the moment water can still flow over felt and under yr new gutter?? I know not so much but still feasible 😬
This is how the trim is designed to be fitted, but i get your idea. There is nothing below the batten to fix it to also so wouldn't work. Assuming no tiles are broken no water should be getting to the felt anyway, but this was designed to get any water coming between tiles and lead to the guttering and away instead of leaking in.
It’s not rocket science mate, once battens are cut put it in against the wall and nail it as shown in the video. Cut the tray with tin snips, a saw, multi-tool, failing that use your teeth. Thanks.
But what when the abutment doesn't reach down to the gutter (e.g. a dormer cheek, where there is lower tiling)? Presumably the secret gutter has to be brought above the lower tiling somehow to run the water above the lower tiling and into the gutter?
Usually on a dormer cheek you’d have lead soakers and either step flashing or tiling/cladding that covers the upstand on the soakers. On this job in the video I priced soakers and step flashing also but customer opted for the cheaper option as is shown in the video. If you had to use a secret gutter on dormer then yes you’d have to have the dormer front corner flashing a bit lower so the channel can drain away down the roof. Never seen it used in such a case though.
@@davesalter Thanks for the reply Dave - it's won you a subscription 😀 Yes it's a timber framed, Cedral-clad dormer, but I'm using single overlap tiles (Sandtoft 20:20), so I can't use soakers, I have to go down the abutment gutter route. I'll consider some sort of lead shoe to run any water out onto the lower tiles. Oh, and "soakers" on top of the tiles to prevent the abutment gutter from getting blocked. Maybe I'll do a video of it!
Hi, does the lead flashing need to go over the tiles that much now the secret gutter is fitted? Or would standard lead flashing without the tile overlap work? Thanks for any info
@@elusive7078 it’s not necessary to overlap no, but I just left the old lead as it was before rather than cutting it. Just found it easier that way. If fitting from scratch i would fit the secret gutter, fit tiles tight against it and then normal step flashing with no overhang on tiles.
@@elusive7078 yeah no probs. Thinking back the reason I left the lead like that was because the tiles were not cut tight to the wall. Which I would do myself if doing usual a step flashing. 👍
There is no set charge. Roofers have different overheads and experience and skill which would change prices a lot. Part of the skill is knowing what the cause of the leak is, this comes with experience and dealing with many roofs, making mistakes and learning as you go. If three roofers priced this leak, one may have quoted £100, customer takes the “cheapest” then the “roofer” covers the tiles with a liquid roofing sealant. A terrible job and solves the leak for 3 months. What I’ve done is permanent. Realistic quotes from a decent roofer would be around £350, a larger roofing company maybe £600. Plus scaffolding costs.
@@davesalter thank you for taking the time to give me a full reply. Just started roofing myself so your videos and comments are invaluable. Love your work thank you.
@@adammorris5315 you’re welcome mate. Always aim to do a good job, be honest and sincere with customers. People will spot this and the recommendations will flow in over time. That’s how to build a good reputation and work load. As well as a lot of advertising to begin with. 👍
@@davesalter 2020 clay tile doubles and tile and a half come out of the factory glued together in this way and come with a 25 year guarantee. Using the correct adhesive is a permanent solution, assuming the tiles are cleaned properly first
@@johndonald1234567890 Right okay, but i have never seen factory made tiled that are glued together when leaving the factory. As far as i am aware they are moulded and fired in set sizes, like tile and half is moulded to be that size. I can see where an adhesive may be useful in some applications but not here for my liking bud.
But wouldn’t water that is on the felt still just go down the back? I think the best way would be to put some felt in and up the wall with the lat clamping it and some soakers because that will definitely still leak from any water on the felt
@@AuroraGOD if water did get to the felt, (and it would only do that if tiles are broken etc) then it would travel straight down to the guttering not towards the wall. It flows down the sagging between rafters. 🤷♂️ It won’t leak at all down that wall from water getting to the felt. Yea soakers would be an option but as far as repairing the problem what I did is the easiest effective way in all honesty. Keep it simple and not over complicate repairs, that’s something you learn with many years working as a roofer.
You wouldn’t be the first to think of such a thing and try it out, it would be temporary and would most certainly fail down the line. This is a permanent solution. Thanks.
@@davesalter There also should have been a rafter fixed to the wall to take the ends of the battens. The felt should have been turned up against the wall by 4-6" as well.
@@TheToolnut There is a rafter 6 inch from the wall to hold the battens and is fine. a rafter on the wall and i would not be able to fit the grp trim in the video as it would be in the way of the secret gutter detail.?
I gave the customer the option of individual soakers on top of each course and step flashings but as it usually the case they went for the cheaper option. This is however a permenant solution to the problem and wont leak so there is zero problem in doing it this way.
@@big.a1131 what do you mean proper job on lead put soakers in instead or something and turn lead into a 6inch step flashing. And he as only had to cut out a small piece of the batten to let the grp gutter sit into the gap.