So, 52 years ago, I am in a sign shop working in Burbank California, I was using a electric pounce pattern reostat..now this was a full working sign shop for decades. The radio was on and and as I was pouncing I heard the radio getting interrupted by static when I touched pattern,... I started playing beats on it for amusement,... A week later I see this guy with Startrek devices walking around Lankershim Blvd as I was again playing beats... He finally walks in and says, what are you doing?,.. turns out 3 blocks around were hearing it,....my bad
Thanks for these tips. I just got offered the job to paint a store sign which I have no experience making. I paint oil portrait paintings so I was a little worried as to how I was going to even do this. Your videos gave me the confidence that it's not only possible with my skills but going to be fun. And thanks for responding to another comment as to which paints and brushes you use. I now know what to get and should be prepared.
Thank you! The Poly-Brushes are great for water based and oil based paints even with reducers. They fall apart if you try to use them with any high lacquer based products like sealers and polyurethanes. They are very inexpensive, I buy them buy the box. I only clean and reuse them when using water based paints, for oil based paints I toss them because it's so difficult to remove the paint and they end up too stiff to use again. I hope this helps.
Mate I loved this video! The paintwork is great and i'm particularly fond of the non patronising tone. Subscribed!! (Im into old bikes and just bought my first sign painting kit to make my number plates, gotta start somewhere :) Thanks, Jimmi - England)
@@davidographicsguy Currently got a pan head with a shovel top end, in a 70's shovel frame, kinda Japanese style, skinny, 18 in the back 19 in the front. I love to do a bit of random tank art and I love how with time and effort a piece of scrap tin can become a mystical sign. I cant wait for it to turn up this week. Have you got any toys in the garage?
@@davidographicsguy I do like pin striping but im not always drawn to it. Sometimes it can look a bit pin striped for 'pin striped sake'. Not knocking anyones style or taste mind
That's awesome! What a fun project. What part of the UK are you in? Are you in a bike club? No garage toys, all mine are random project related as you see in my videos. :)
I have an assignment for letting on a brickwall, I have never done lettering, I do other wall art work.... What is the best way to have the words they want ready to be transferred to be wall? I see you mention powder or charcoal on your videos. Do you have videos showing how you get the letters on the paper? Could I use stencils?
Hi Leonela, I create my patterns using a pen tool on my plotter that is connected to my computer. Most sign shops have this capability. If you don’t have a sign shop in your area, there are online companies that can make paper pounce patterns. You can send them your own ‘Vector’ based artwork. If the project is really big, you can rent an overhead projector and trace your image on the wall when it gets dark. If you need more ideas or have any questions please let me know.
@@davidographicsguy Hi David, First of all, thank you for responding. Second, I am looking up companies that make the pounce paper, that might cost less. I want to invest on a projector for the futuro but not yet. Do you think that custom ordered stencils in the size and words I need would work on the wall?
Hi Leonela, can we start an email communication and can you send me a picture of the artwork? I might be able to make the pattern for you. thesignshopsc@comcast.com
How big are the holes after you finish with the electrical pounce machine? Also where can I find one of those machines ? I’m currently using a spike wheel tracer and I’m not getting foo chalk marks
Hey Christian, Yeah, if you’re planning on making a lot of patterns, the Electro Pounce is a must. Get on every FaceBook Sign Group you can find. People are selling used ones. Other wise this is the only place I know that carries them: www.mclogan.com/shop/electro-pounce-machine-p-603.html
how much paint was used up on the brown section? also, how were you able to get the lettering looking so accurate seeing you'd already painted the green? cheers.
It’s 1-Shot Maroon Lettering enamel, just under a quart. I transferred the letters on to the green the same way as the rest with a pounce pattern. Cheers!
Hi T, well, if a paper pattern is being used, accuracy should be guaranteed. If there is an issue, the letter would have to be painted over with the background color, repositioned and repainted.
Oh, I’m sorry, this sounds like something that exists. If touch up is impossible to make perfect, than it’s a redo. We all have had to start over with projects from scratch unfortunately. It can be disheartening and expensive, but it is the best end result.
Most brand names can be cross mixed, 1-Shot with Ronan, etc... but always do a test sample and let it dry in the sun to make sure. I prefer to combine same brand names to avoid potential issues.
@@davidographicsguy You mentioned 'because it was black' you used Reducers.. would you not use them for other colours? What is the different between Reducer and Flow Enhancer?
All of the top coat paint is 1-Shot lettering enamel. If you do not have access to this paint, Rustoleum would be next. If you can't get that then exterior semi gloss latex paint. I'm not a fan of acrylic paint because the pigment viscosity is too thin. I hope this helps. Thank you! P.S. be sure to use fitch brush on stucco. I prefer the angular ones: artbrush.com/shop/product.php?productid=1520&cat=13&page=1
