Tobi Thank you! I got so obsessed with the fact that the striker is never in front of the sear anywhere in the operational cycle that I completely overlooked the obvious. This has been bugging me for a while :)
This is an incredible teardown, thanks for taking the time to go into the detail. Its amazing that something with relatively few parts can be so complex in design
This guy has an understanding and explanation of the internal mechanisms that I have never encountered in any armorers course (AGI or youtube). What a great video!
Thank you. In my opinion, AGI's Armorer courses are the best for armorers, just as they are intended. Their gunsmithing courses are the best gunsmithing education you can get outside of a brick-and-mortar school. Armorers are not necessarily supposed to know a lot about why things work, just how to fix them. The hows and whys come from the gunsmithing side of things. AGI's Bob Dunlap was a once in a generation master. If you want to see the real deal, you won't find better than Bob.
Great video, you helped sell me a Q4 SF Here's some wip time stamps 00:00:00 intro 00:01:35 slide removal 00:03:00 sight adjustment/removal 00:04:05 extractor & striker removal 00:11:30 striker disassembly 00:16:08 trigger bar alignment explained 00:17:33 striker reassembly 00:19:10 slide reassembly 00:24:15 take down removal 00:26:35 slide lock removal
Der Transponder ist ein Fach für einen RFID Chip (wie bei einem Hund) um die Waffe elektronisch in der Waffenkammer zuordnen zu können. Sehr gutes Video 👍
This is an excellent video and I have some answers for you regarding your struggles. I am 67 and not able to manipulate with some minor tremors. You certainly showed tenacity to the extreme. Here is what I did and it is a slight variation of your them. Fist, I used some gun grease to act as an adhesive inside the piece. The goal was to prevent the short leg of the spring from going wild! It helped. Next, I held the assembly up about a 45-degree angle and when inserting the part, kept it angled as well and did not insert very far, I used some long, but hex wrenches to catch the spring in position; the one that worked best was very thin and flexible. Like you, I worked from the wrong side, but the initial capture was easier. I replaced the thin hex with a thicker one. That was my slave in this case. Then I was able to displace it with the Walther pin. Mind you, I watched your video and struggled for about an hour. Trying to remain calm is a real task!
Big thanks! Got my first ppq m2 the other day. Your video gave me all I need to take care of my gun. And, it also helped me to figure out where I should do the polishing for even smoother trigger. I like that you film all the way to show when you get stuck on the trigger spring - good to know for others where critical points show up. I'll send you a sketch on how I solved spring task, if you haven't found a better tip yet.
This video has an incredible amount of detail, and is really for armorers. Most people are never going to disassemble the sear housing, I certainly won't, but it's fascinating to see how it all works. The author could have made the video a lot shorter, but he tries to give you background on why the part was designed the way it is.
Thanks for the awesome disassembly video. Knew I was having an issue with trigger bar and striker block safety. Never thought to look down the mag well. A couple of slivers my business card as spacer between the trigger bar and frame shifted it over enough to center properly on the plunger. So at least I know that's the problem and explains why I have not had the same opinion as other RU-vid channels as to the PPQ trigger.
To get the extractor in I had to pull the firing pin towards the back of the cover plate so everything settled. That puzzled me for a good 20 min. But great video. 👍
Excellent video. When you mentioned that a lot of the internals for the PPQ were holdovers from the P99, I took both of mine out to compare. The fore-aft movement on the striker sear (oddly I started watching this video hoping to answer the same question) on the PPQ appears to be part of the P99 design, specifically the AS version. When the P99AS is decocked the striker sear is pushed down and back, and held down by the striker. The AS can still be fired in double-action/AS mode from this state. The AS trigger bar has a hook that is shaped similarly to the striker sear that engages and cocks the striker via an extended tab on the side of the striker body (only present on the P99 striker) during the double action pull. Interestingly, the slides are interchangeable and functional between the two models except for the loss of the decock/double action function on the P99 (only tested at the bench but the striker does launch a pencil across the room so the FPB is being properly disengaged on both).
Amazing video! I have P99 but this video was still helpful. I would like to ask a question. Considering that P99 is not manufactured anymore, what spare parts would you recommend buying if I plan to you this gun as long as possible?
Use a larger punch or a drill shank, as a slave pin, that is close to the size of the pin you're trying to align to minimize the slop. Thanks for a very thorough video.
Great video. Do you know how to separate the slide lock for the PPQ M2 22lr? Can find anything and seems not to be the same as the 9mm or 45. Thanks Cory
Great patience my man LOL pulled out this video was hoping somebody would be showing how to put the spring in stumble upon yours because that funky little spring came off on mine and probably took me an hour to get it in there used different size punches and just kept messing with it all done🤯switched out my Q5 match trigger and upper into my OD green PPQM2 Will be doing a video shortly🤪
Good video thanks for sharing! I learned more in the first 10 minutes than any other video on this topic 😁 got a question though. I just got a Q5 match and the trigger is very gritty and heavy after I cleaned it. It was a used gun and it was very dirty when I got it so I field stripped it soaked it in hoppes and re-lubed according to the manual and the trigger feels like garbage now. Very gritty, lots of staging just passed the take-up point just before the break. Still has a nice crisp break but it’s a very “stagy” feeling trigger now. Any suggestions on what to check? I took the striker out and cleaned the striker and striker channel with rubbing alcohol so it’s totally clean and dry in there now. Thank you!
In the sear mechanism, I got a wooden q tip and cut the shaft into a small sacrificial pin to hold the spring in place and then I shove it in and line it up and then push out the wooden pin with the real pin.
I just spent five minutes writing a comment about the easy way to get the sear & spring back together, by fashioning a temporary pin of the proper diameter and width and you managed to describe it in 24 words...WELL DONE!
Just a note on Kennung and Transponder. Transponder means the same in german as in english, Kennung translates more or less as identification. My guess is, that the gun may be equipped with a transponder to recognize the owner maybe for example as a police officer, but I don't know the exact usage of this transponder as I'm not even allowed to possess a gun in my country (Germany). None the less quite interesting to see how it works...
"The rest of it, it's a little complicated, for reason I'm not sure why". German... Great tutorial, good detail. I wish Walther wasn't part of the Lemming trail going in this "trendy" new direction with so much plastic and I really don't like the striker triggers but this Walther is soooo much better then the Flock.
just got my first ppq and watched your video . great info . I always like to know everything about my pistols. which brings up a question from me . do you have a video of a take down of the smith and wesson m&p 2.0 9mm?
How does the decoder work? Does it simply release the striker and allow it to slam into the firing pin safety plunger? Or is there something else going on? Thank you.
My trick to get back the sear was using standard Glock tool, not any thin punch, from the oppopsite side. It is almost thick as the pin and took about 3 attempts to put it together, after 30 mins screaming 4letter words.
Easiest way I found to get the sear and spring back in there was to lay it on its side, insert the spring halfway in the striker and then slide it down enough so you can get a 1/16 punch through it. Only inserting the spring half way keeps it from moving while leaving enough space for the punch. Turn everything right side up and then use the punch to line things up while you re-insert the pin.
@@lennyoflorida2645 they use a temporary push out pin of the same diameter as the final pin, and the length of the temp-pin is equal to the width of the sear...make one yourself...EZ-PZ
Yesterday, I learned that complete disassembly is outside of the warranty. I disassembled my Navy M2 SD after noticing some corrosion from salt and sent it in disassembled to assist the gunsmiths in finding the trouble spots. That was a mistake. A $70 mistake to be exact.
Absolute best video I've seen on the ppq. Thank you good sir! Have you used a DPM anti recoil spring(springs) on the ppq? Just wondering if it's worth it.
I have a question for the maker of this video for the life of my gunsmith who worked on my pistol he was unable to get the slide lock out without breaking the lever I called Walter arms and they told me no gunsmith unless they have the right tools and setup the frame needs to be locked down which very few people have that in order to get that lilac out otherwise you risk cracking the frame then he was telling me putting it back together if it's a brand new unit will be equally tough and you'll need to have a press fit in order to do it looking at your PPQ you make it look so easy so I can only assume that you've probably had this on and off several times and it got loose over the over the times you've done it you make it seem like it's very easy putting the slide assembly back on but then when their new parts I don't think it's going to be that easy without possibly bending something
I’m having the same challenge. New PPQ and trying to upgrade the trigger. I can’t get the slide stop out for the life of me. Just hammering the crap out of it with no result.
@@flbirdman87 I would send it to Walter arms and for $113 which includes shipping they will install it for you. Someone else told me if you lift or put a magazine in the magwell and try it it'll be easier
Beautiful classic, still gold standard for all polymer pistol. It is a true gentleman pistol, Glock is for peasant. While 2011 is for sweaty hand try hard who probably spend $2000 on shoes
In order to make the re-installation of the sear and sear spring easy, use the same technique commonly used for alignment but with a unique twist...think of it this way- often when aligning parts to center a hole for subsequent pin installation, a punch of the same size is inserted on one side of the frame, and then the actual pin is pushed in from the other side, being careful to keep the contacting surface ends of each of the two parts (tool-pin & actual pin) tight against each other as the actual pin is put in place. On the Walther PPQ, the sear & corresponding sear spring assembly reside in a frame recess that doesn't allow for the tool-pin to be set as explained above....however, a simple way to solve the problem is to fashion a small pin, the same width as the outer surfaces of the sear, and pre-assemble the sear spring into the sear, securing the sear spring with the pin. A bit of gun lube helps to hold the pieces in place. With the three parts assembled, it is simple to slide the assembly back into the frame recess, and then install the actual sear pin as you normally would...you end up pushing the temporary short pin out, exactly like the traditional technique described above. A tip, you can fashion the temporary tiny pin by cutting off the chuck-end of a properly sized drill bit...leave it a tiny bit long at first, then sand/grind it down to the proper width. I've used this technique many times, and always have the sear-pin temporary pin on hand...best of luck!
*I've seen M*CARBO use this technique you speak of, with a little plastic piece, they call an assembly tool, but ya, it's just a same size little piece of cut plastic to hold everything in place so you can simply drop it in, and push it out with the pin.* *Designed by MCARBO for S&W SD9VE; replacing trigger return spring; attn. to the 11min, 15 sec mark on this video-->**ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pmiw9nF-h2E.html*
I struggled as well on the sear reassembly, until I found a way to install the sear and spring without having any tension on the spring. Drop them from the top and keep it facing up. Both legs of the spring will rest at their normal state, until you go fish it with a very small screw driver. Here is a video I made from the Walther's clone, the Canik TP9 : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZdFjfeECEDs.html
I also had a miserable time reassembling the sear spring into the housing. The orientation of the little spring is important obviously. I eventually figured out a 'trick' of some kind, but I don't remember what it was. What you did with the thin punch seems the best approach. Floss might work also. In any case, don't be so hard on yourself. That design assembly is going to be a bitch for anyone who hasn't done it at least a half-dozen times and developed a perfect trick.
Hour and a half to field strip my gun? Jk. It is nice to know how to take something apart nowadays without trying to figure it out myself and have extra pieces left over when I'm done. Come on, I'm almost 50, people our age always had leftover parts from our bicycles. We didn't have RU-vid. Thanks again for video.
"Transponder" is used for police weapons, as the PPQ is a typical police weapon (Police Pistol Quick). Each PPQ shows "Transponder" in their inner, but only the police weapons have a RFID chip in this place to identify each weapon in addition to their serial number. Models with chip have something with "ID" at the backside of the grip. (If you understand some German: www.carl-walther.de/fileadmin/uploads/media/testreports/VISIER_2015_12_Wachabloesung_PPQ_M3_P3.pdf page 6/8)
Walther must have a short roll pin, which can temporarily fit inside that little part, hold the spring in place. After the part is inserted, just use a punch to push it out and put in the correct pin.
Maybe the dear moved backwards like that for when the striker is moving back. Instead of striker hitting a stiff wall, it hits and angled wall that also moves to make it easier on the striker. I dunno, kinda makes sense to me but I'm an idiot lol
When removing the slide stop lever ass'y. Walther recommends inserting an empty magazine into the grip, to place the lever in the proper position for disassembly.
Thanks so much for this video. I used it to disassemble the lower on a Q5 to try to figure out why the trigger everyone raves about is so gritty. I polished all contact points and it smoothed out a bit but still not a great trigger in my opinion.
Goodnight: Does anyone know how to reduce the weight of the trigger of the Walther PQ5 Match, from 2.5 Kg, to 1.00 Kg? I already replaced the spring that performs the recovery of the trigger, that first displacement has decreased the weight, but the shot continues to be 2.5 kg. Thanks to who gives an answer.
Use a cut off piece of WD40 straw as slave pin, put it in the sear and to trap the spring. Push the straw out with the pin once the sear is back in the housing. ps- never tried this, never taking my Q5 apart yet, but this is how you get the sear pin and trigger pin back in place on a Tanfoglio
actually I use a cut piece of plastic Q-tip for the sear on that gun, the WD40 straw is for the trigger spring and pin. The pins are much different sizes
*I've seen M*CARBO use this technique [Jeffrey Sobek, 2 yrs ago] speaks of, with a little plastic piece, they call an assembly tool, but ya, it's just a same size little piece of cut plastic to hold everything in place so you can simply drop it in, and push it out with the pin.* *Designed by MCARBO for S&W SD9VE; replacing trigger return spring; attn. to the 11min, 15 sec mark on this video-->**ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pmiw9nF-h2E.html*
It's really not bad at all. There's no reason to disassemble the sear group. That's the only part that is actually a bitch. It's a brilliant mechanism, but it has a tiny spring. You can't have the best striker fired trigger unless you add a few fiddly bits.
No question the Glock is by far the easiest. I am certified as a Glock armorer and most mechanisms are precisely the same. There's MUCH to be said for simplicity.
